I just had a similar problem with a short steer tube. I got stem from CRC with a 30mm stack . You can see it in my photos .Top two bolts pull a wedge up the steertube to tighten .I'm pretty sure they have at least two other stems with 30 or 32 stack .that tighten the regular two bolt at the back of the stem way.
The Orbit MX has a 32.1mm stack height... that's relatively high and there are a few lower stack headsets available. For example, something like the Crankbrother Iodine SL has 20.56mm but that is discontinued and the bottom bearings known to explode. If you can find one, and just install the top one, you would get at least 5mm more steer tube and that should be enough.
[Quote= hmm interesting little gadget there...but might try the locktight over a jb job[/Quote]
Yeah, I just found out that we have a makerspace nearby at the university that has a couple CNC machines. I plan on swinging by tomorrow and seeing if perhaps we could cook up some plans for the aforementioned gadget. It be cheaper than buying a whole new headset and I think it has potential. Especially if I push my start nut down a little more so I could have a few inches inside the steer tube, then it would be a few inches inside and only about 3/4's of an inch out. Seeing as half the stem would already be on the steer tube I think it just may work.
Quick question why would you think locktite would be better of JB weld? just curious.
locktite has so many different compounds that are liquidy and so bondworthy for different applications these days. JB is pretty old school kinda thick pasty and the bond is not that great really. I have used the green locktight on bearing seats where loose and they are bombproof...needs heat to release
[Quote= hmm interesting little gadget there...but might try the locktight over a jb job
Yeah, I just found out that we have a makerspace nearby at the university that has a couple CNC machines. I plan on swinging by tomorrow and seeing if perhaps we could cook up some plans for the aforementioned gadget. It be cheaper than buying a whole new headset and I think it has potential. Especially if I push my start nut down a little more so I could have a few inches inside the steer tube, then it would be a few inches inside and only about 3/4's of an inch out. Seeing as half the stem would already be on the steer tube I think it just may work.
Quick question why would you think locktite would be better of JB weld? just curious.[/Quote]
my friend had similar problem, too short steer tube. his fork is boxxer team. he just add steel tube inside steerer tube to gain more strenght and as a bonding tube with extension tube. it works well. but its also dual crown, so it may have different result.
if its me, i rather find shorter stack of headset and stem.
The old spank spike stem had a 25mm stack height I think. Otherwise you're f*cked. Don't try to cobble anything together. Just sell the fork and get another with the right length steerer tube.
So i was just out trying to realign my caliper with the rotor, and turns out the lower mount on the fork is stripped on the inside where you tighten the brake down... do i have any options to fix this that arent getting new lowers?
So i was just out trying to realign my caliper with the rotor, and turns out the lower mount on the fork is stripped on the inside where you tighten the brake down... do i have any options to fix this that arent getting new lowers?
So i was just out trying to realign my caliper with the rotor, and turns out the lower mount on the fork is stripped on the inside where you tighten the brake down... do i have any options to fix this that arent getting new lowers?