The crown stops more than an inch above the tire, as it hits the bottom out bumpers before it can hit the last ~15mm of stanchion. I'm definitely going to be running my friend's 650b front wheel for dry days! And even if it gets muddy out, I'd have a mud shedding arch
My only concern is wheel and tire flex in corners.. Last thing I want is one of those meaty side knobs getting hooked onto the arch sides
it's got new thinking too, suddenly RS makes a futureproofed long travel fork again.
It is making me think about 650 on my surge when I can get up enough for a new wheel-set...probably have to pull the dropouts back a little bit but should work....hmmmmmm
The crown stops more than an inch above the tire, as it hits the bottom out bumpers before it can hit the last ~15mm of stanchion. I'm definitely going to be running my friend's 650b front wheel for dry days! And even if it gets muddy out, I'd have a mud shedding arch
My only concern is wheel and tire flex in corners.. Last thing I want is one of those meaty side knobs getting hooked onto the arch sides
yeah, that's true, it would shoot you OTB pretty quick it if caught. I wonder if a smaller rim/tyre would be better, a 2.4 maxxis is smaller/lower profile than a MM.
hey ya'll I'm sure this has been addressed but I couldn't find it...picked up a used lyrik solo air 170 and after a couple of rides it has developed a click on rebound if pushed into deep travel any ideas to look for before I tear it apart?
could possibly be the rebound piston head on the rebound rod, best bet would just be to tear it apart and recheck everything. Can pick up a rebuild kit pretty cheap on amazon.
could possibly be the rebound piston head on the rebound rod, best bet would just be to tear it apart and recheck everything. Can pick up a rebuild kit pretty cheap on amazon.
Are you able to lower a 2012 Totem Dual Position Air? With either keeping the dual position so it can be adjusted from 100-120 or just setting it at 100?