RockShox TOTEM / LYRIK discussion thread

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RockShox TOTEM / LYRIK discussion thread
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flag inked-up-metalhead
Posted: Apr 3, 2014 at 4:12 Quote
No, but tbf, you didnt over pay and imo at least you got a better fork out of it, yes it's a little heavier but its far more reliable too, and coil does feel better than air
flag talkingspoon
Posted: Apr 3, 2014 at 5:00 Quote
inked-up-metalhead wrote:
No, but tbf, you didnt over pay and imo at least you got a better fork out of it, yes it's a little heavier but its far more reliable too, and coil does feel better than air

Yes and no. I've owned both coil and air and it really comes down to preference. They both have advantages and disadvantages. For me, being only 165 lbs geared. I'd take an air fork over the coil. Same with my rear shock.
flag inked-up-metalhead
Posted: Apr 3, 2014 at 5:07 Quote
I was more meaning reliability, 2steps had a commonish problem with seals and bushings. Literally, coil uturn is simple and reliable as fook, never heard of an issue with the travel adjustment.
flag jskiff
Posted: Apr 3, 2014 at 5:57 Quote
All good then :-)
flag Lapsus
O+
Posted: Apr 4, 2014 at 5:07 Quote
I'm debating whether it's worth the hassle to do the floodgate mod on my Lyrik. It's a 2013 model and I've heard these models have a revised compression and rebound damper. I know the floodgate mod improves small bump sensitivity on 2010 models however I am unsure if it would benefit my fork. Any opinions?
flag talkingspoon
Posted: Apr 4, 2014 at 10:10 Quote
Lapsus wrote:
I'm debating whether it's worth the hassle to do the floodgate mod on my Lyrik. It's a 2013 model and I've heard these models have a revised compression and rebound damper. I know the floodgate mod improves small bump sensitivity on 2010 models however I am unsure if it would benefit my fork. Any opinions?

Did this and is great. Fork feels more lively.
flag cherouvim
Posted: Apr 4, 2014 at 10:18 Quote
For the lowers of my totem 2012 double position air the manual says 15ml of 15wt in the drive side and 10 ml of 15wt in the non drive side. Today instead of using 15wt I mixed 5wt and 15wt in equals portions. Looks good.

Is there any disadvantage with that mix? The oils are the same brand (rock shox)
flag inked-up-metalhead
Posted: Apr 4, 2014 at 10:43 Quote
Itll speed rebound up and make compression lighter.
flag manachim
Posted: Apr 4, 2014 at 11:01 Quote
cherouvim wrote:
For the lowers of my totem 2012 double position air the manual says 15ml of 15wt in the drive side and 10 ml of 15wt in the non drive side. Today instead of using 15wt I mixed 5wt and 15wt in equals portions. Looks good.

Is there any disadvantage with that mix? The oils are the same brand (rock shox)

Oil in the lower of rock shox fork are just for lubricating only. It has nothing to do with compression damper and will not affect any compression damping.

If you fill it more than suggested volume, it may effect the fork feel, just a little bit, sooner or later your stanchion will fill with the oil due to over filling. However it will happened in the extreme side. You may want to know that lower oil will gradually draining. That's why you have to inspect lower fork periodically, depends on your ride frequency.

The weight of this lower oil its just for maintaining lubrication. Too thin it will stay at the bottom of lower, too thick it make your stanchion movement kinda not so smooth.

I am personally using multi grade engine oil for lower (castrol magnatec 5-40 wt).I found it much better than RS oil. I read this trick on enduro seals website. Already done this with many of my rebuild fork and found zero problems.
But I always use original RS oil for damping cartridge.
flag inked-up-metalhead
Posted: Apr 4, 2014 at 11:05 Quote
Yeah, mah bad, misread the lowers bit. What that guy said
flag cherouvim
Posted: Apr 4, 2014 at 13:47 Quote
Thanks for the info. Makes sense.

Another question. I've only opened the lowers for cleaning and oil change around 5 tims. I've have the totems (2012, rc2 dh, dual position air) for 9 months with around 100 2 hour rides. Should I try to service the air spring or the damper side first? Which one is more in need of a service? And which one is easier to service and most unlikelly to require seals change?
flag Spicy-Mike
Posted: Apr 4, 2014 at 17:54 Quote
Edit^ does anything feel off to you? Any leaks or weird damper effects (beside top-out light knocking and usual damper sounds). I would do basic physical inspection, mostly seals.

To touch a bit more on what Manachim said about Lowers' oil. Reason why there are certain specifications is so that the oil moves around freely enough to "splash" around all the while still providing good cling characteristics but after that just as along your oil doesnt contain seal swellers, etc itll be cool. I like mobil 1 standard 10w-30 for this reason and have used in all my forks lowers.
flag cherouvim
Posted: Apr 4, 2014 at 22:20 Quote
Spicy-Mike wrote:
Edit^ does anything feel off to you?
Nothing. It works well. I just thought that it'll soon be time for something more than just the lowers oil change I do.
flag Spicy-Mike
Posted: Apr 5, 2014 at 2:20 Quote
I know Totems do have a pretty short maintenance time tables but not sure if thats for whole system or just flushing out lowers. Wouldnt hurt to do either airspring/damper, since theyre both working fine!
flag ChubzyWubzy
Posted: Apr 5, 2014 at 12:35 Quote
I don't want to jump to conclusions, but have the Totem's reached the end of their life? I don't see them on the Rock Shox website, and if you manually type in https://www.sram.com/rockshox/family/totem the page still exists for Totem's but it doesn't list any of the forks (as of April 5, 2014 12:35PM).

 


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