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flag DARKSTAR63
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Posted: Nov 17, 2014 at 8:30 Quote
yes remove the shock, and then the lower linkage bolt. You can get away with just the front shock bolt and the linkage bolts, this allows enough movement of the rocker to slide out the old cable and in with the new.
flag MrDuck
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Posted: Nov 17, 2014 at 8:45 Quote
DARKSTAR63 wrote:
yes remove the shock, and then the lower linkage bolt. You can get away with just the front shock bolt and the linkage bolts, this allows enough movement of the rocker to slide out the old cable and in with the new.
This though I find it faster to disconnect the hose at the brake lever and give it a quick bleed after.
flag DARKSTAR63
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Posted: Nov 17, 2014 at 9:05 Quote
MrDuck wrote:
DARKSTAR63 wrote:
yes remove the shock, and then the lower linkage bolt. You can get away with just the front shock bolt and the linkage bolts, this allows enough movement of the rocker to slide out the old cable and in with the new.
This though I find it faster to disconnect the hose at the brake lever and give it a quick bleed after.


No way is that faster, but either way will work. Even with an easy to bled Shimano brake, its quicker to just undo the linkage and shock, three bolts. When you factor in time to take out what you will need for the bleed, and then actually do it - followed by cleaning up - you could of had the new line in behind the linkage.

With all that said. If your SLX brakes are brand new the line is WAY too long and you need to cut it anyways. So you might as well route it through. Smile
flag GTABurnout
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Posted: Nov 17, 2014 at 10:04 Quote
DARKSTAR63 wrote:
MrDuck wrote:
DARKSTAR63 wrote:
yes remove the shock, and then the lower linkage bolt. You can get away with just the front shock bolt and the linkage bolts, this allows enough movement of the rocker to slide out the old cable and in with the new.
This though I find it faster to disconnect the hose at the brake lever and give it a quick bleed after.


No way is that faster, but either way will work. Even with an easy to bled Shimano brake, its quicker to just undo the linkage and shock, three bolts. When you factor in time to take out what you will need for the bleed, and then actually do it - followed by cleaning up - you could of had the new line in behind the linkage.

With all that said. If your SLX brakes are brand new the line is WAY too long and you need to cut it anyways. So you might as well route it through. Smile

Awesome thanks foe the advice. The line is perfect size so I will just remove the shock bolts and go that route.

Also anyone have much luck going tubeless? The front it holding fine I manged to lose the rear though.
flag MrDuck
O+
Posted: Nov 17, 2014 at 10:48 Quote
DARKSTAR63 wrote:
MrDuck wrote:
DARKSTAR63 wrote:
yes remove the shock, and then the lower linkage bolt. You can get away with just the front shock bolt and the linkage bolts, this allows enough movement of the rocker to slide out the old cable and in with the new.
This though I find it faster to disconnect the hose at the brake lever and give it a quick bleed after.


No way is that faster, but either way will work. Even with an easy to bled Shimano brake, its quicker to just undo the linkage and shock, three bolts. When you factor in time to take out what you will need for the bleed, and then actually do it - followed by cleaning up - you could of had the new line in behind the linkage.

With all that said. If your SLX brakes are brand new the line is WAY too long and you need to cut it anyways. So you might as well route it through. Smile
Well I've got the bleeding stuff in the same box as all my other tools Smile And since I don't have a workstand ( :-((((( ), removing the shock link is way more trouble than mere unscrew of a hose from the lever and one minute bleed Smile I can imagine removing the shock would be much more pleasure with a workstand, but for some reason I don't have one. I think it's retarded not to have one with the amount of time I spend servicing and cuddling with my bikes though :-/

But yeah, usually changing brakes means cutting the hose for me, so it may make me biased as I do that more often than removing the link.

GTABurnout wrote:
Also anyone have much luck going tubeless? The front it holding fine I manged to lose the rear though.
Stock wheels? I'm running some Spank Tweets right now and they convinced me tubes are obsolete, using standard tires I do lose some pressure over time so I check it before each day riding, but I've done that with tubes as well. However, I've never (knock on wood!) had any sudden pressure loss on my bike since going tubeless.
flag dangerfoot
Posted: Nov 17, 2014 at 11:31 Quote
GTABurnout wrote:
Just bought a 2013 Status 1 med, I am 5-10. Bike fits well had to update the stem to a longer 50mm.

Quick question about the rear brake housing routing. I pulled off the Avids for some SLX brakes. I rouded the rear cable out side of the suspension linkage since it was impossible to get the caliper or lever to fit thru the small area where the cable originally was routed. Is there a way to get the cable routing correct with out disconnecting the housing from the lever or caliper and having to reconnect and bleed?

Sure...take apart the linkage (but IME it would be easier to re-bleed!)
flag DARKSTAR63
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Posted: Nov 17, 2014 at 12:22 Quote
It's two bolts, one on each side, then the front shock bolt. You push up on the linkage and sneak it out. It's very quick it's not like talking the whole linkage "apart". While bleeding Shimano brakes is quick and easy and quite honestly a pleasure every time, the linkage is pretty easy to un bolt. Since it's Shimano brakes we are talking it's not a big deal but this is useful for Avid fans because it's WAY easier than the pain and suffering that is bleeding those bad boys.
flag ctmtb98
Posted: Nov 17, 2014 at 12:27 Quote
GTABurnout wrote:
Just bought a 2013 Status 1 med, I am 5-10. Bike fits well had to update the stem to a longer 50mm.

Quick question about the rear brake housing routing. I pulled off the Avids for some SLX brakes. I rouded the rear cable out side of the suspension linkage since it was impossible to get the caliper or lever to fit thru the small area where the cable originally was routed. Is there a way to get the cable routing correct with out disconnecting the housing from the lever or caliper and having to reconnect and bleed?

longer stem? huh im same height and used a status 2 and stock it felt great
flag MrDuck
O+
Posted: Nov 17, 2014 at 13:00 Quote
DARKSTAR63 wrote:
It's two bolts, one on each side, then the front shock bolt. You push up on the linkage and sneak it out. It's very quick it's not like talking the whole linkage "apart". While bleeding Shimano brakes is quick and easy and quite honestly a pleasure every time, the linkage is pretty easy to un bolt. Since it's Shimano brakes we are talking it's not a big deal but this is useful for Avid fans because it's WAY easier than the pain and suffering that is bleeding those bad boys.
Well I'm usually more struggling with putting it back together, but now that I think about it, yer right it's probably the easiest pivot to align. I just hate for instance putting the shock back because I need to hold the bike up to keep it extended and stuff Smile
flag GTABurnout
O+
Posted: Nov 19, 2014 at 14:44 Quote
ctmtb98 wrote:
GTABurnout wrote:
Just bought a 2013 Status 1 med, I am 5-10. Bike fits well had to update the stem to a longer 50mm.

Quick question about the rear brake housing routing. I pulled off the Avids for some SLX brakes. I rouded the rear cable out side of the suspension linkage since it was impossible to get the caliper or lever to fit thru the small area where the cable originally was routed. Is there a way to get the cable routing correct with out disconnecting the housing from the lever or caliper and having to reconnect and bleed?

longer stem? huh im same height and used a status 2 and stock it felt great

Well I am coming off a All Mt. style bike I ahve never really had a ful DH style bike. I do come from a BMX back ground and have decent bike handling skills.
flag ctmtb98
Posted: Nov 19, 2014 at 14:53 Quote
GTABurnout wrote:
ctmtb98 wrote:
GTABurnout wrote:
Just bought a 2013 Status 1 med, I am 5-10. Bike fits well had to update the stem to a longer 50mm.

Quick question about the rear brake housing routing. I pulled off the Avids for some SLX brakes. I rouded the rear cable out side of the suspension linkage since it was impossible to get the caliper or lever to fit thru the small area where the cable originally was routed. Is there a way to get the cable routing correct with out disconnecting the housing from the lever or caliper and having to reconnect and bleed?

longer stem? huh im same height and used a status 2 and stock it felt great

Well I am coming off a All Mt. style bike I ahve never really had a ful DH style bike. I do come from a BMX back ground and have decent bike handling skills.

hmm yeah AM bikes do run bigger, but if you get used to the shorter stem its really nice for sure, but also depends on what prefer, JHMO
flag ctmtb98
Posted: Nov 21, 2014 at 11:14 Quote
sidermang wrote:
does anyone else notice how much flex there is in the rear end? I was in whistler last weekend, and it felt like my tire was low washing out, I checked my tire pressure and spoke tension and both where fine, my buddy riding behind me said he could see the frame flexing in corners. Kinda concerning.

Might post a shitty video of myself riding my status chain less with a blown fork down aline later

Definitely in ur head man, specialized wouldn't put out a bike after testing if it flexed that much, in fact the 2015 demo is the same width
flag DARKSTAR63
O+
Posted: Nov 21, 2014 at 11:21 Quote
I can say without question it is not the stiffest DH bike I've ridden. However I think it's rides great and holds a line so It really does not impact performance. The fact that its 10mm and open drop out has more to do with it than the actual width. It's a great bike, just shred it and enjoy !
flag MrDuck
O+
Posted: Nov 21, 2014 at 11:32 Quote
DARKSTAR63 wrote:
I can say without question it is not the stiffest DH bike I've ridden. However I think it's rides great and holds a line so It really does not impact performance. The fact that its 10mm and open drop out has more to do with it than the actual width. It's a great bike, just shred it and enjoy !
Yeah, the new Demo has 12mm square axle, so it's not really the same as Status' 10mm vertical dropouts.

However, I had an issue with flex on my previous SX Trail, fixed it with a DT RWS axle (up from Novatec 10mm axle), and I've carried that over to the Status. It honestly suprised me how much of a difference that axle has made.
flag ctmtb98
Posted: Nov 21, 2014 at 12:10 Quote
DARKSTAR63 wrote:
I can say without question it is not the stiffest DH bike I've ridden. However I think it's rides great and holds a line so It really does not impact performance. The fact that its 10mm and open drop out has more to do with it than the actual width. It's a great bike, just shred it and enjoy !

yeah my old nomad was 135 and I rode that thing on everything and never noticed any flex or stiffness issue really, I think the rear end stiffness thing just gets into a lot of peoples heads

 


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