2012 Kona Operator!

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2012 Kona Operator!

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Posted: May 3, 2012 at 5:08 Quote
MindPatterns wrote:
I'm pretty sure this document is outdated. Take a look at page 2 or2, lower right. You'll find the revision there - your document says "A", the doc from the Sram page says "C" (http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/n4_waNHG8VgspT1xSxD0qp0NrmhndeAmCc9U3-SnlbM/mtime:1307481664/sites/default/files/techdocs/2011_boxxer_rc_technical_manual_rev_c.pdf).

Regarding my confusion with the stanchions, I know that I'm not the only one with this problem since I've found a few posts (even here on pinkbike) where other riders wonder about the same thing. I have forwarded this picture to Kona Tech. I hope they can tell me which setting is right or wrong.


Last comment, as you clearly need more assistance than the pinkbike community can provide.

Your nice little diagram above is completely wrong. If you put the top of the top crown at exactly 156mm from the top of the stantions, you will have approx 6mm of stantion showing above the top of the top crown using the short top crown. The measurements in your picture are incorrect.

If your diagram is correct, then SRAM would be suggesting you use less than the 203mm travel that the fork has as the distance between the lowers and the bottom of the lower crown; as shown in your diagram; is 197mm.

As there's no possible way your diagram is correct, I would set the stations with 2-4mm showing above the top crown and go ride your bike.

Best of luck to you.

Posted: May 3, 2012 at 5:15 Quote
donch15 wrote:

If your diagram is correct, then SRAM would be suggesting you use less than the 203mm travel that the fork has as the distance between the lowers and the bottom of the lower crown; as shown in your diagram; is 197mm.

This is exactly the problem. Come on guys, I'm not making this up. I've read a lot of posts now regarding this - just type "boxxer 156 mm" into google and take a look around - this spec confuses other riders, too. Here's the screenie from the docs:


Once I get a reply from Rock Shox, I'll let you know.

Posted: May 3, 2012 at 5:21 Quote
MindPatterns wrote:
donch15 wrote:

If your diagram is correct, then SRAM would be suggesting you use less than the 203mm travel that the fork has as the distance between the lowers and the bottom of the lower crown; as shown in your diagram; is 197mm.


This is exactly the problem. Come on guys, I'm not making this up. I've read a lot of posts now regarding this - just type "boxxer 156 mm" into google and take a look around - this spec confuses other riders, too. Here's the screenie from the docs:



Once I get a reply from Rock Shox, I'll let you know.

The SRAM diagram isn't wrong...YOUR little picture diagram is wrong. Go back and measure it again.

As long as you have 203mm between the top of the lowers and the bottom of the lower crown, you're good to go.

That is all you need to know. If you can't figure that out, you've got bigger problems.

Best of luck to you man.

Posted: May 3, 2012 at 5:25 Quote
donch15 wrote:

The SRAM diagram isn't wrong...YOUR little picture diagram is wrong. Go back and measure it again.

Trust me, if I did one thing yesterday again and again, it was measuring the stanchions again and again Wink But you could do me a favor so I have a reference: Could you measure your stanchions from the upper end to the beginning of the dust seals? I could compare this value to my set up. This would help me a lot.

Posted: May 3, 2012 at 8:37 Quote
Honestly, the bike does not handle well if you set the forks to the way you have it, the lowered bottom bracket height / increased head tube angle / and all of that additional weight distributed over the front is detrimental to all out speed.

You asked for advice and people are giving you good advice here but you don't seem interested in it.

If you look at Sam Hill's bike and other DH champs with Boxxers you will see very few of them have a massive gap between the top crown and the end of the stanchion - these bikes are setup by SRAM like this for a reason.

Posted: May 3, 2012 at 8:45 Quote
hipposauce wrote:

You asked for advice and people are giving you good advice here but you don't seem interested in it.

That's not true. As a matter of fact, I cannot ride with the setting as shown in the second picture since there is not enough space for letting the fork bottom out! It's 197 mm where it should be 203 mm.

And honestly - as long as I do not have some statement from a Rock Shox mechanic I will not drive Setting 1, as it clearly does not apply to the specs set up by Rock Shox. I guess specs are there for a reason...

Posted: May 3, 2012 at 9:38 Quote
MindPatterns wrote:
hipposauce wrote:

You asked for advice and people are giving you good advice here but you don't seem interested in it.


That's not true. As a matter of fact, I cannot ride with the setting as shown in the second picture since there is not enough space for letting the fork bottom out! It's 197 mm where it should be 203 mm.

We are all telling you to run setting 1 - setting 2 is not correct for this bike.

Further - here is one on display in the SRAM booth with the crown how we are telling you to run it


Do you think they would set it up in a way to damage it on their own display?

Posted: May 3, 2012 at 10:06 Quote
hipposauce wrote:

We are all telling you to run setting 1 - setting 2 is not correct for this bike.

Okay, I probably should have told you that setting nr 2 was the setting the bike was delivered with.

And this one
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/7983148/
and this one
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/7972817/
and this one
http://www.triridemtb.com/en/kona-operator-2012-eurobike-quick-test/
and this one too:
http://www.konaworld.com/downloads/MBA_operator.pdf

I measured the distance between the seals and the lower crown, and there was not enough space.
So I came into this thread and asked how I make sure that I align both stanchions equally when changing their positions, and after I did this ( -> setting 1), I saw the 156 mm setting in the Rock Shox manual. Which confused me, so I asked again here. And now I'm even more confused. Wink Trust me, I'm not trying to troll around, and I don't want to be a jackass. Let's just say we forget about this right now and I post into this thread again when I receive feedback from Rock Shox. Smile

EDIT:
FTR, the picture you've posted doe not say anything about the space between end of upper tubes/upper end of lower crown. This could still be 156 mm due to the longer steering tube.

Posted: May 3, 2012 at 10:32 Quote
For shits and giggles, I decided to test this out and do a little measuring. Just because I was curious. I followed Sram's manual for boxxer setup exactly as written and I was left with 203mm of stanchions from the tip of the seals to the bottom of the lower crown. I guess that's as it should be. Confused

Even though these measurements are suggested by a book, that's not how I ride. Dropped them right back to giving me 230mm of stanchion space!

My suggestion.. Ride your way and not how a book tells you. But do use a little common sense and don't go torquing your crown bolts to 100 in-lbs.

Posted: May 3, 2012 at 10:34 Quote
MindPatterns wrote:
hipposauce wrote:

We are all telling you to run setting 1 - setting 2 is not correct for this bike.


Okay, I probably should have told you that setting nr 2 was the setting the bike was delivered with.

And this one
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/7983148/
and this one
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/7972817/
and this one
http://www.triridemtb.com/en/kona-operator-2012-eurobike-quick-test/
and this one too:
http://www.konaworld.com/downloads/MBA_operator.pdf

I measured the distance between the seals and the lower crown, and there was not enough space.
So I came into this thread and asked how I make sure that I align both stanchions equally when changing their positions, and after I did this ( -> setting 1), I saw the 156 mm setting in the Rock Shox manual. Which confused me, so I asked again here. And now I'm even more confused. Wink Trust me, I'm not trying to troll around, and I don't want to be a jackass. Let's just say we forget about this right now and I post into this thread again when I receive feedback from Rock Shox. Smile

EDIT:
FTR, the picture you've posted doe not say anything about the space between end of upper tubes/upper end of lower crown. This could still be 156 mm due to the longer steering tube.

Holy sh*t man.You are beyond assistance.

You clearly have no idea what you're doing, post a question, people respond with very helpful answers and you argue with them.

The length of the steerer has nothing to do with the distance between the top of the lower crown and the top of the stantions. The top of the lower crown (and the position of the top crown for that matter) is a static point fixed by the bottom of the head tube. IT NEVER MOVES!!!!!

Posted: May 3, 2012 at 10:43 Quote
donch15 wrote:


Holy sh*t man.You are beyond assistance.

You clearly have no idea what you're doing, post a question, people respond with very helpful answers and you argue with them.

I even post pictures of WHY I'm confused about the OFFICIAL specs set up by the OFFICIAL guide and I'm beyond assistance? The f*ck?!

Posted: May 3, 2012 at 10:57 Quote
I did it by the OFFICIAL guide and I was left with the OFFICIAL travel of 203mm.

If there was an OFFICIAL book by OFFICIAL authors on how to ride, would you OFFICIALLY follow it?

I guess I'm just a not OFFICIAL because I like set things up to a personal fit.


*Edit: Oh yea, and OFFICIALLY, that tech manual is for the red Boxxers and not the black or white ones. They're different! Dead Horse

Posted: May 3, 2012 at 11:17 Quote
vi5a wrote:

*Edit: Oh yea, and OFFICIALLY, that tech manual is for the red Boxxers and not the black or white ones. They're different! Dead Horse


Hahahahaha....that's definitley the problem.

Posted: May 3, 2012 at 11:24 Quote
Mindpatterns are u a engineer?

Posted: May 3, 2012 at 13:54 Quote
Dude are you serious ? Lol measure out 200-203mm , mount , adjust , and go ride.


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