Hi there, I had a Yeti SB -66 enduro kit, and want to ask if i can get any benefit if I try a 2x10 configuration instead the 3x10 that it has right now.
I do a lot of trail courses, uphill and downhill, no racing.
Before talking to the shimano sales rep last week I would never have thought 2x10 was worth it but at the XTR level it's some well thought out stuff. The 2x10 is not just a tripple crank with one ring removed. The bottom gear ration is the same but with less overlap in the middle.
The result is that when you drop from mid to granny on the front you don't need the 2 or 3 make up shifts to be in the right gear. Additionally the chain line is better so less drag, and that new locking derailleur is sweet! No more chain slap, no chain guide required. They say it will change how you ride.
In addition the front shifter can be switched from 2 to 3 speed. It's expensive stuff as you might well imagine but if you were thinking of going 2x10 anyway I think you should do it.
Yes three is for the road - that big ring is just a bash guard in the trails. If you need to shift up into your big ring, after you spun out your middle ten - you are flying at world cup pace - drop the big ring - 2X10 is sweet and the new 1X10's with the taller rear cog eliminates a lot of gear over lap as well.
I dont see why you wouldnt be able to run a bashguard on 2x10?
Depends on the chain ring size, easier to find a bashguard for a freeride oriented 2x20 than an XC oriented 2x10, and not all are designed to accept a bashguard. But if your buying one and specifically want a bashguard ... should be no issue, it will just take a bit of searching
2x10 cranks use a different bolt pattern, and they way the rings attach to cranks makes it difficult to mount a "bash ring" you can use a MRP bash guard that mounts to the BB. Renthal is making a new ring with a built in guard to help keep the chain from dropping. The biggest problem with 2x10 cranks is on rough trails there is no ring on the outside to help keep the chain from dropping off. If you get the XTR shadow plus this not a problem, XT and down or Sram and you have a problem if the bike is AM and ridden hard in rough terrain. In one XC race last year I dropped my chain 3 times on rough downhills, that where followed by short power climbs, that is when I stopped ridding my XX cranks.
Depending on the terrain you ride you may also find the 2x10 gear ratios to be less than ideal, and there are less options to play around with to make it match your terrain and style. If you take a 3x10 crank and run it will 1 less ring you now how the option of making most of the 2x10 gear ratios, but can also use a bash ring.
Personally I have found the 3x10 crank with a 28t granny and 33t or 34t middle to suit my ridding better than the 2x10 options. I loved the 28t granny on the 2x10 but then found the jump in the front to 42t was to much on a 29er, so I was shifting constantly. And was never using the higher gears on the back (small gears). 26 39 was not much better. The granny was to low for me, and the high gear was still really tall for the trails I ride. With a 33x11 on the 29er I can do 50+km/h before I am spun out. Any faster than that on a trail, and I am not pedaling. My current setup how ever for trails is a 33t 1x10. I will be adding a granny for the Nimby Fifty race, because of the 1.5 hr long climb, but that should be it for the year.
Yes three is for the road - that big ring is just a bash guard in the trails. If you need to shift up into your big ring, after you spun out your middle ten - you are flying at world cup pace - drop the big ring - 2X10 is sweet and the new 1X10's with the taller rear cog eliminates a lot of gear over lap as well.
Depends a lot on your gear ratios. I get away with a 2x10 setup on my roadbike climbing steep stuff and I'm far from having the tour de france fitness level... iirc pretty much only the lower end roadbikes come with 3x10 setups nowadays.
As for bash guards, you could get a bb mounted chain device that has a taco included if you want to avoid the crank bolts issue. Apparently mrp has a good 2x10 product, I think e13 also has something similar.
Why on earth would you want a 3x10 setup? Go for a 1x10 with a 34t up front.
Not everybody will do fine on a setup with 1 chainring. If you only climb fireroads it might cut it but for steep gnar terrains its not always enough. You can walk the harder parts but then again hiker poles are much cheaper than a bike if you want to do it that way.
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34 to 38t on the front depending on your ride with 9 out back? 