Hi guys! I have a 2008 demo 7.1. Issue at hand is that there is play between the rear shock eyelet and aluminium (15mm) bolt that goes through the frame. Anyone else experienced this? How can I fix it when there is no bushing in the rearshock eyelet?
Any suggestion appreciated.
--- check out my new demo for inspiration as wellhttp://www.pinkbike.com/photo/7182000/
I'm experiencing this problem too, I'm going to take the shock to my lbs and see what they say, the bearings actually in the frame feel a little rough so I may have to get them replaced as they may be the source of the problem.
kind of good to hear that I'm not the only one. My bearings are brand new so in my case it simply can't be a bearing issue. When I put the alu bolt through the eyelet on the rear shock it is clearly play between the two. Let me know what your lbs say.
kind of good to hear that I'm not the only one. My bearings are brand new so in my case it simply can't be a bearing issue. When I put the alu bolt through the eyelet on the rear shock it is clearly play between the two. Let me know what your lbs say.
Sounds like you need a new DU bushing in your shock.
There is a bushing in there that gets pressed in by your lbs, you just might not notice it. Both DU bushings in your shock should be replaced periodically, makes a real difference that you don't notice when it's gone because the performance declines so gradually, but when you do, wow! Being a 2008, I'd say you are probably due. It's not real expensive and relatively simple with the right tools.
I know first.hand that this can backfire. I did this on my 2010 and I sheard the bolts to the frt shock mount from over compressing the shock on the storage container drop at whistler.
I was under the understanding that you can change a shock's stroke, but not the i to i. a longer i to i will screw with the geometry (raise the bb, increase the head tube angle, etc.). If it will only give you 8 inches, wouldn't it be easier just to remove the travel limiter like this thread suggests? That will give you 7.8 inches of travel and .2 inches isn't a huge difference from 8 inches IMO.
I'm just trying to understand what was the mods we could do to the rear suspension. I'm checking budget dh bikes ... and the demo 7 just popped up with a great price and great equipment. Since i had a vivid 5.1 8.75 x 2.75 unused i was trying to understand if i could, by any means, use it on the demo 7 But i understand that i will end up with a "weirdo" bike with weird geo ... So, it's a no go to use it
I'm just trying to understand what was the mods we could do to the rear suspension. I'm checking budget dh bikes ... and the demo 7 just popped up with a great price and great equipment. Since i had a vivid 5.1 8.75 x 2.75 unused i was trying to understand if i could, by any means, use it on the demo 7 But i understand that i will end up with a "weirdo" bike with weird geo ... So, it's a no go to use it
Ah I see. Yeah, if you can snag a Demo 7 for a good price, then go for it! You won't be disappointed. I love mine. So much that my next bike will also be a Demo, but probably an 8. Though I have no regrets with the 7.8 inches in the back and the 7 inch Totem Solo Air up front. I'm a big dude at 225 lbs and have never bottomed out, and I run like 30% sag. And I am by no means a smooth rider/jumper. Though I have struck a pedal from time to time
I have a 2007 SX Trail ... the problem is that i'm always modding my bikes to be uber-downhillers ...
so now i'm going to buy a second bike for dh... and i don't want to buy a super expensive bike, since i don't race and not many people use DH bikes anymore ( in Portugal, many riders and swapping DH rigs for AM rigs ... ) .
So the Demo 7 was a solid choice ... i have a Demo 7 fully equipped for 1500 euros ( around 1800 USD ) ...
Thats a good deal. That`s what I paid for my 07 Demo 7 I last year. And a 7 is by no means a DH bike compared to today`s standards, but it can handle whatever DH terrain I throw at it, which can be pretty gnarly!
I was under the understanding that you can change a shock's stroke, but not the i to i. a longer i to i will screw with the geometry (raise the bb, increase the head tube angle, etc.). If it will only give you 8 inches, wouldn't it be easier just to remove the travel limiter like this thread suggests? That will give you 7.8 inches of travel and .2 inches isn't a huge difference from 8 inches IMO.
This is true - Just wanted to say that it will fit and operate fine - It really only screws up the static geo as you can just run a little more sag. but obviously getting the proper shock size is the prefered option
I was under the understanding that you can change a shock's stroke, but not the i to i. a longer i to i will screw with the geometry (raise the bb, increase the head tube angle, etc.). If it will only give you 8 inches, wouldn't it be easier just to remove the travel limiter like this thread suggests? That will give you 7.8 inches of travel and .2 inches isn't a huge difference from 8 inches IMO.
This is true - Just wanted to say that it will fit and operate fine - It really only screws up the static geo as you can just run a little more sag. but obviously getting the proper shock size is the prefered option
I figured that as well... but yes, proper shock size IS preferable.
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