Hope brakes still weak after bleeding

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Hope brakes still weak after bleeding
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flag Juddman1
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 7:11 Quote
Hi!
Recently bought some second hand hope tech m4's (203 F 180 R).

I've bled both (pretty sure that's not the problem - I had no air going through the bleed pipe), and the pistons are pretty central (easily 1mm between pads + rotor).

So far as I know I don't think I spilled any brake fluid on the pads.

However, when I took my bike out, even when riding at slow speeds, the brakes do not jam the wheel so it skids, they just slowly bring it to a stop. The rear brake also squeaks if that helps?

They seem to have less power then the 160mm shimano brakes i had on before.

Anyone have any idea why this my be happening?
Any checks I can do to eliminate possible problems?

Any help would be much appreciated!
flag knobzy
O+
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 8:33 Quote
could be a few things.

I had a similar issue with some hayes stroker trail. Bleed them, didn't work. replace the pistons, didn't work. I finally just replace the master cylinder and that was the issue.
flag Juddman1
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 8:42 Quote
I'm pretty sure it's neither the piston's or master cylinder, as the brakes are only a few months old, and Hope stuff doesn't get worn that easily.

Thanks for the help though!
flag knobzy
O+
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 8:43 Quote
Juddman1 wrote:
I'm pretty sure it's neither the piston's or master cylinder, as the brakes are only a few months old, and Hope stuff doesn't get worn that easily.

Thanks for the help though!

if it isn't the master cylinder or pistons. then its only narrowed down to a hole in the line letting air in, or a poor bleed.
flag bigburd
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 10:23 Quote
If you are bleeding it and no air bubbles are showing and the lever feels good then I would guess it's contaminated pads/disk.
Get some brake pads from superstar components , very cheap and all the ones I have used have been very good.
Worth getting a rotor too while ur at it , they are less tan a tenner.
flag Juddman1
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 10:54 Quote
Although I had no air bubbles coming from the bleed tube, the lever action was weak. Even with the BPC (bite point control) fully wound in, there was too much action, and not nearly enough bite.
Does that mean they could do with a rebleed?
And why would this happen if I had no air coming through the bleed tube?

Also, how close should my pads be from the rotor ? Mine are pretty close (you can just see light between the pads and rotor), but should they be closer?

Thanks for the help so far!
flag knobzy
O+
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 11:06 Quote
Juddman1 wrote:
Although I had no air bubbles coming from the bleed tube, the lever action was weak. Even with the BPC (bite point control) fully wound in, there was too much action, and not nearly enough bite.
Does that mean they could do with a rebleed?
And why would this happen if I had no air coming through the bleed tube?

Also, how close should my pads be from the rotor ? Mine are pretty close (you can just see light between the pads and rotor), but should they be closer?

Thanks for the help so far!

How close your pads should be, is if you can slide 1-2 pcs of paper between the pads and rotor, then yours fine.
flag Juddman1
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 11:12 Quote
yeah, they're close enough.

I was just thinking, could it be that I didn't push the pistons in afer I bled the brake?
flag knobzy
O+
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 11:16 Quote
Juddman1 wrote:
yeah, they're close enough.

I was just thinking, could it be that I didn't push the pistons in afer I bled the brake?

guessing from bleeding other brakes, you want to push the pistons in before you bleed.
flag Juddman1
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 11:35 Quote
On the hope bleed video, it says you have to push the pistons in after bleeding, and then pump the lever - I didn't do this - could that be the cause?
flag knobzy
O+
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 11:58 Quote
Juddman1 wrote:
On the hope bleed video, it says you have to push the pistons in after bleeding, and then pump the lever - I didn't do this - could that be the cause?


always a possibility.
flag Juddman1
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 13:07 Quote
Thanks, I'll give it a rebleed tomorrow!
flag superbikes
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 13:27 Quote
Does the lever feel smungy ?
flag Juddman1
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 13:55 Quote
Yeah, it feels kind of spongy.

After bleeding, I was expecting it to have a more abrupt, shorter action, but I have to use the whole lever travel, and even then the wheels keep turning.
flag superbikes
Posted: Jun 16, 2012 at 14:25 Quote
Juddman1 wrote:
Yeah, it feels kind of spongy.

After bleeding, I was expecting it to have a more abrupt, shorter action, but I have to use the whole lever travel, and even then the wheels keep turning.
get ya ive had the same brake had sam problem gave up in the end so sold them and got hope m4 race still the same problem but only with the rear . After bleeding like u still the same problem . So i followed the hope vid put a small flat sreewdriver behind the pad hold it and pres the lever bingo lever feels bang on but the bit is still weak. Ive use oldschool hope brakes but i really do think they have f*cked up with the new brakes. Iknow how to bleen and iknow my stuff just can not seem to them to work as they shud
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