Ground Anchor Fitting

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Ground Anchor Fitting

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Posted: Jul 23, 2012 at 3:58 Quote
Hi All,
I'm trying to fit a ground anchor in my garage - but I'm having real problems because it's on a pretty thick concrete floor.
I have a 16mm concrete drillbit, but it's taking ages (and rounding off my drillbits very quickly)

any suggestions on how to make this easier?
I followed the ground anchor fitting instructions, so I have already drilled a smaller guide hole and I have a hammer drill so i thought it would be fairly straight forward?

any guidance would be much appreciated
cheers!

Posted: Jul 23, 2012 at 7:13 Quote
nordland071285 wrote:
Hi All,
I'm trying to fit a ground anchor in my garage - but I'm having real problems because it's on a pretty thick concrete floor.
I have a 16mm concrete drillbit, but it's taking ages (and rounding off my drillbits very quickly)

any suggestions on how to make this easier?
I followed the ground anchor fitting instructions, so I have already drilled a smaller guide hole and I have a hammer drill so i thought it would be fairly straight forward?

any guidance would be much appreciated
cheers!
you need a hammer drill with a transformer ie yellow transformer i had the same problem with my flat its reenforced concreate . I hired a drill and transformer for the day it went throw like butter

Posted: Jul 23, 2012 at 7:56 Quote
thanks dude - I have a Makita hammer drill borrowed from a mate
Should I try and add a transformer to make it easier? and what does that actually do? lol

scuse my ignorance Winkcheers

Posted: Jul 23, 2012 at 8:50 Quote
nordland071285 wrote:
thanks dude - I have a Makita hammer drill borrowed from a mate
Should I try and add a transformer to make it easier? and what does that actually do? lol

scuse my ignorance Winkcheers
dont think you can just plug any drill into a transformer but not 100% shore on that .

A TRANSFORMER ups the wattage and the speed of a drill . Hope that helps :-)

Posted: Jul 23, 2012 at 9:09 Quote
excellent - cheers I'll look into that Big Grin

Posted: Jul 23, 2012 at 9:16 Quote
nordland071285 wrote:
excellent - cheers I'll look into that Big Grin
NO PROBLEM Big Grin

Posted: Jul 23, 2012 at 9:57 Quote
The equipment makes all the difference. A good quality bit and hammer drill works through it like butter. You should remember not to lean on the drill too hard, let it work. Leaning or pushing to hard can cause damage to the drill or bits and make it harder to drill the holes. I use hammer drills at work and a cheap one works cheaply and good for a few drills (if that). But I usually drill 3/4" holes about 10" deep.

Posted: Jul 23, 2012 at 10:16 Quote
thanks! its a serious mission - i'll have another go tonight if the light lasts.

Posted: Jul 23, 2012 at 10:42 Quote
macross87 wrote:
The equipment makes all the difference. A good quality bit and hammer drill works through it like butter. You should remember not to lean on the drill too hard, let it work. Leaning or pushing to hard can cause damage to the drill or bits and make it harder to drill the holes. I use hammer drills at work and a cheap one works cheaply and good for a few drills (if that). But I usually drill 3/4" holes about 10" deep.
yes this is true but i paid 30 pound for a top concreat drill bit and paid 300 pound for a black and decker hammer drill this still didnt work becouse the walls are reinforced concreat . So i went to a hire shop they exspained it all to me that yes the drill i had was good and the drill bit was very good and the problem was the wattege hence the transformer that they use on alot of building sites . As i life in a block of flats this was the only thing that would do the job . So i hired it for the day i can tell you ive never drilled so many holes in one day as it was on hire :-)

Posted: Jul 23, 2012 at 11:15 Quote
superbikes wrote:
macross87 wrote:
The equipment makes all the difference. A good quality bit and hammer drill works through it like butter. You should remember not to lean on the drill too hard, let it work. Leaning or pushing to hard can cause damage to the drill or bits and make it harder to drill the holes. I use hammer drills at work and a cheap one works cheaply and good for a few drills (if that). But I usually drill 3/4" holes about 10" deep.
yes this is true but i paid 30 pound for a top concreat drill bit and paid 300 pound for a black and decker hammer drill this still didnt work becouse the walls are reinforced concreat . So i went to a hire shop they exspained it all to me that yes the drill i had was good and the drill bit was very good and the problem was the wattege hence the transformer that they use on alot of building sites . As i life in a block of flats this was the only thing that would do the job . So i hired it for the day i can tell you ive never drilled so many holes in one day as it was on hire :-)

Thanks guys
I can't really afford the hire prices at the moment, so is there any harm in continuing with my current drill (slowly)

thanks

Posted: Jul 23, 2012 at 11:31 Quote
nordland071285 wrote:
superbikes wrote:
macross87 wrote:
The equipment makes all the difference. A good quality bit and hammer drill works through it like butter. You should remember not to lean on the drill too hard, let it work. Leaning or pushing to hard can cause damage to the drill or bits and make it harder to drill the holes. I use hammer drills at work and a cheap one works cheaply and good for a few drills (if that). But I usually drill 3/4" holes about 10" deep.
yes this is true but i paid 30 pound for a top concreat drill bit and paid 300 pound for a black and decker hammer drill this still didnt work becouse the walls are reinforced concreat . So i went to a hire shop they exspained it all to me that yes the drill i had was good and the drill bit was very good and the problem was the wattege hence the transformer that they use on alot of building sites . As i life in a block of flats this was the only thing that would do the job . So i hired it for the day i can tell you ive never drilled so many holes in one day as it was on hire :-)


Thanks guys
I can't really afford the hire prices at the moment, so is there any harm in continuing with my current drill (slowly)

thanks
No just try and use any old crap small drill bits first to get it going then use your best drill bit for the final size . Ps beer and d i y dont mix lol

Posted: Jul 23, 2012 at 13:04 Quote
superbikes wrote:
Ps beer and d i y dont mix lol

Depends, did you want floors to look like swiss cheese? If so, then beer and DIY is almost mandatory. Don't ask how I know *shifty eyes*

Posted: Aug 1, 2012 at 6:43 Quote
Are you using masonry drill bits?

Posted: Aug 1, 2012 at 10:06 Quote
yeh man im using 2 types of black&decker drill bits

1 for concrete and brick
the other is for masonry work

Kind of given up at the moment cos my drill is not getting very far, so might call a builder in Wink

Posted: Aug 2, 2012 at 0:02 Quote
to hire a decent drill with hammer function that comes with some bits is only gonna cost like 30 quid from a Smiths equipment hire or somewhere. Builder gonna be at least 50 quid depending how long they can drag it out for.

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