Rate My Ride V2 [Read 1st Post]

PB Forum :: BMX (20")
Rate My Ride V2 [Read 1st Post]
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Posted: Apr 27, 2016 at 15:31 Quote
harry-h wrote:
k-m-z wrote:
Urbaniste wrote:


A rim that's meant to have brakes will have a flat faced side, and will also be thicker to allow for wear... put succinctly: DESIGNED FOR IT.

My wife found out the real issue once when she was working as a bike mechanic and some tool had used a Stan's tubeless kit on a rim brake wheel and didn't tell her. He'd worn enough metal from using rim brakes that the sidewall of the rim gave out suddenly with her hand on the wheel and pretty much exploded in her face. After about 45 minutes she could hear again, the feeling came back in her fingers the next day.

Just because you can do something, and it works today, tomorrow or even a few months from now doesn't mean it's a good idea.... But hey, not many people have foresight.

I'm trying to get at the point at the point that all ya'll are harping this "pro" that what he does is wrong when it works for him.
when you work in a shop you start to realise that "well it works so it'll be fine" are the words of a true moron

I do agree. I have been working as a tech for over a decade now. It's the daily struggle but when it comes down to it, it's not my bike. Educate the customer and let them decide.

Posted: Apr 27, 2016 at 17:07 Quote
I feel as though people are getting a little too worked up about the fact that I'm riding that rim in the back i am well aware of the risks involved with doing so and i feel that if I'm comfortable with those risks then it really doesn't matter, when it comes to riding parts that are not designed for that use you're right but theres only one way to find out if things are going to hold up or not. I have ridden for mirraco, norco's factory pro team, system Bmx, craz e crew, currently have some stuff in the works. I have designed frames and bike parts and have a lot of years experience in bmx. I feel as though i know my bike better then the rest of you guys do as well as what my bike can handle given my type of riding which is only transitions. Thats about all i have to say about all of this i feel all of this got way out of hand so yah thats that

Posted: Apr 27, 2016 at 17:19 Quote
"Guise I'm sponsored I know everything".

We just explained why it was a bad idea, then you proceeded to write extremely long paragraphs about why you know best because you know someone and because you get rims for free. The (claimed) fact that you helped design parts is actually pretty scary.

Posted: Apr 27, 2016 at 17:22 Quote
You explained why it was a bad idea, which i was well aware of when i built the wheel. Still built it still ride it still dont worry about it. You guys should care less about what my bike is and more about actually riding your bikes. Also stem, sprocket, and hub ive designed are holding up great thanks tonnes of kids ride them now ????

Posted: Apr 27, 2016 at 17:50 Quote
I'm just gunna put my 2cents in here. As long as you don't do any big drops or anything and ride smooth I could see it holding up for awhile. Just be careful sending it I would hate to see you 180 a drop and taco the wheel. As for the brakes it will eventually will give. As long as your ok with those wheels not being your last setup then go for it. Just be careful I f*cked that rim in the front from some street abuse.

What have you designed? I'm more intrested in that then this argument. It's just gunna go in a shit circle as Ricky would say.

Posted: Apr 27, 2016 at 18:10 Quote
Skip tooth sprocket where every second tooth is missing. Rides exactly the same but with a slammed back end makes taking the chain off easier as you have a little section to take it off. Had the out before kink cane out with there minus 1 sprocket. Top load stem with a low stack height for guys who run gyros since compression bolts in forks are getting so short allows you to run the gyro with more effeciently. The hub i wont talk to much about at the moment but its flangeless with slits. Ill post some pictures

Posted: Apr 27, 2016 at 18:17 Quote
Dude; Love the FaFs. Pretty well rounded tread. Can hit the hardpack dirt around here and still rides nice and good for a park. I run them at like 50-60 and they're still pretty quick. Not the lightest though.

BigRattDaddy; Not a race frame. It's based on the LTF with custom geo. Long ass top tube and short back end. Also only two pegs, which normally get ignored. :c

Here's the full bike for those that ain't seen;

A cool whip

Posted: Apr 27, 2016 at 18:28 Quote
yo13bo wrote:
"Guise I'm sponsored I know everything".
This. f*cking tool.

But bigrat bike look's 10/10 man. Im sorry i missed it homie.

Posted: Apr 27, 2016 at 18:33 Quote
What made you go with v brakes over some u brakes? Looks good though

Posted: Apr 27, 2016 at 18:37 Quote
devinszmata wrote:
What made you go with v brakes over some u brakes? Looks good though

Bought used. Previous owner dug them.

Weight is a plus, as they're pretty damned light. Power is also very good. Feels very stiff with a straight cable.

Reminds me, got a booster to toss on there.

Posted: Apr 27, 2016 at 22:02 Quote
If you put one of those old school boosters on there it'll be a 10

Posted: Apr 27, 2016 at 22:04 Quote
devinszmata wrote:
photo
What's the point of skipping every 2nd link? Other than the chainring wearing out twice as fast.

Posted: Apr 28, 2016 at 6:20 Quote
yo13bo wrote:
devinszmata wrote:
photo
What's the point of skipping every 2nd link? Other than the chainring wearing out twice as fast.

Makes it so you can walk the chain on and off more easily if you run a tight or slammed back end. Kink made one that was just missing one tooth for the same purpose.

Posted: Apr 28, 2016 at 6:24 Quote
Urbaniste wrote:
yo13bo wrote:
devinszmata wrote:
photo
What's the point of skipping every 2nd link? Other than the chainring wearing out twice as fast.

Makes it so you can walk the chain on and off more easily if you run a tight or slammed back end. Kink made one that was just missing one tooth for the same purpose.

I tried this with an S&M sprocket I had. One tooth was snapped so I filed it right down to leave a gap. If you run your chain tight on a slammed axle it doesn't actually help that much. If at all.

The problem with the one above is if you lose a tooth for whatever reason it's going to leave too big of a gap. If your chain is loose it will walk off on it's own.


 


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