Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag ginger-wheels
Posted: Apr 19, 2015 at 20:29 Quote
riish wrote:
possible that the oring on top of the MiCo damper has failed in the cold. If you take out the damper and take that oring to a bearing supply shop, they should be able to get you a replacement.

If that o-ring has busted you may wanna check the others or do a full service. I just did one on my 2011 boxxer and it was pretty straight forward, you just need the full seal kit and suspension oil.
flag Tier1
Posted: Apr 19, 2015 at 23:29 Quote
Just wondering, how are air shocks these days compared to coils?

I've heard air can be kind of finicky depending on atmospheric conditions and you have to play with it a bit on the day of your ride to get it plush and all. I guess coming from thinking about car suspension with aftermarket springs giving you different spring rates from the different pitch and all. I know coil is a "set it and forget it" type deal (I also learned you can't actually crank up the preload to stiffen it up) while air you can play with the pressures by pumping/deflating it with the shock pump and play with other settings and all that. Shock I'm thinking of buying is the 200x51 Suntour Durolux shock vs something like the 200x50 Cane Creek DB Coil. But that said, maybe the fact that I can hardly see any 200x51 coil shocks out there other than the DBCoil is a sign that I should go ahead and use an air shock?
flag debonis
Posted: Apr 19, 2015 at 23:43 Quote
Tier1 wrote:
Just wondering, how are air shocks these days compared to coils?

I've heard air can be kind of finicky depending on atmospheric conditions and you have to play with it a bit on the day of your ride to get it plush and all. I guess coming from thinking about car suspension with aftermarket springs giving you different spring rates from the different pitch and all. I know coil is a "set it and forget it" type deal (I also learned you can't actually crank up the preload to stiffen it up) while air you can play with the pressures by pumping/deflating it with the shock pump and play with other settings and all that. Shock I'm thinking of buying is the 200x51 Suntour Durolux shock vs something like the 200x50 Cane Creek DB Coil. But that said, maybe the fact that I can hardly see any 200x51 coil shocks out there other than the DBCoil is a sign that I should go ahead and use an air shock?

Coil is still kinda "king" for DH/FR stuff.

But for almost everything else, the majority of people use an AIr spring.

Air springs are also lighter than their coil counterpart. So you're winning on the weight game. I've made the switch to air, and I have never looked back.I just find Air to offer a much more plush ride.
flag riish
Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 0:56 Quote
I went from a CCDBA to a RC4, the coil is miles better. better small bump, better composure on big hits, and the BOV pressure adds midstroke support so you can influence spring rate that way if you want.
flag iffy
Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 1:51 Quote
riish wrote:
I went from a CCDBA to a RC4, the coil is miles better. better small bump, better composure on big hits, and the BOV pressure adds midstroke support so you can influence spring rate that way if you want.

this, and if you are 80kg plus a coil will probably work out better, the weight will not really be an issue.
flag jamieridesbikes
Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 4:04 Quote
200x50 and 200x51 rear shocks are the same thing as far as I'm aware. I'd personally go for air for the ease of adjustment.
flag iffy
Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 4:48 Quote
jamieridesbikes wrote:
200x50 and 200x51 rear shocks are the same thing as far as I'm aware. I'd personally go for air for the constant faffing around to get a best compromise between wallow, blowing thru travel and no grip

FTFY Razz
flag Conanangus
O+
Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 6:08 Quote
I have a pair of e13 lg1+ pedals but the end caps on the pair of them are pretty destroyed and I was looking for spares but I can't seem to find them does anybody have any ideas or a suitable replacement from another brand?
flag TreyDownhill
O+
Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 6:49 Quote
Conanangus wrote:
I have a pair of e13 lg1+ pedals but the end caps on the pair of them are pretty destroyed and I was looking for spares but I can't seem to find them does anybody have any ideas or a suitable replacement from another brand?

Nuke proof makes great pedals
flag Mattin
Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 8:19 Quote
TreyDownhill wrote:
Conanangus wrote:
I have a pair of e13 lg1+ pedals but the end caps on the pair of them are pretty destroyed and I was looking for spares but I can't seem to find them does anybody have any ideas or a suitable replacement from another brand?

Nuke proof makes great pedals

My answer would be 'banana'
flag nathanb
Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 10:18 Quote
Hey , quick question , planning on getting my demo frame ALU oxide blasted and left raw? Any ideas if its okay to leave raw? I know intense frames are but have heard the fact they are untouched after heat treating seals them in a way , any thoughts?
flag Tier1
Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 12:45 Quote
jamieridesbikes wrote:
200x50 and 200x51 rear shocks are the same thing as far as I'm aware. I'd personally go for air for the ease of adjustment.

OK fair enough, I guess I'll just look at what the best deals are when I go to pull the trigger. I know 50, 50.8 and 51 are all the same stroke and a 200mm i2i is 7.875". Really liking the price of the Suntour Durolux, looks like they're going for a little under $300 shipped BNIB.

New question, I already pulled the trigger on a set of wheels and hubs from wheelbuilder.com DT M480's (650b) and DT350 hubs they're both 28 spoke because 32 was out of stock and it was a closeout special. Will I have problems with such a low spoke count on the rear? For reference I'm 170 lbs and I'm going to be putting 2.4" Maxxis Ardents on it. Not sure what I'm going to lace it up with yet, Either DT Competition double butted or DT Alpine III triple butted. I'm leaning towards the Alpine III's because I think it will be stronger but I need to check the diameter of the hubs spoke holes to see if they'll fit and go through.

I broke a spoke yesterday on my bike after taking a hit while I was trying to get KOM on a downhill section at a nearby park. It was an OEM straight 14 gauge spoke though and it was on a 32 spoke wheel so I would have thought it would be able to take the extra stress.
flag jamieridesbikes
Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 12:50 Quote
I've never had any problems with my DH wheelset, 28 spoke sun ringle ADD comps.
flag thisguyalex
Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 13:07 Quote
nathanb wrote:
Hey , quick question , planning on getting my demo frame ALU oxide blasted and left raw? Any ideas if its okay to leave raw? I know intense frames are but have heard the fact they are untouched after heat treating seals them in a way , any thoughts?
fine to leave raw, but have it basted with crushed walnut shells instead, it's the proper media for stripping aluminum without removing ANY of the surface
flag thisguyalex
Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 13:10 Quote
Db post, anyone know if the new xt levers can be rebuilt? I have one that's less than a season old and not making proper pressure anymore even after paying for shop bleed as well. Lever bites then goes soft... Got them mid to end of last summer.

 


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