Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 20:41 Quote
best way to think about this is that a chain is a wear item ,while a cassette and chainring are less of a wear item. it's usually cheaper to replace chains early rather than wear out a cassette/ring and have to replace all three. look up Sheldon brown's site, there's a link to measuring chain wear with a ruler.

to answer your question though, keeping it well oiled and free of sand/mud/grit will help, as well as not shifting under excess load or crunching through your gears. hope that helps!

Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 20:49 Quote
riish wrote:
best way to think about this is that a chain is a wear item ,while a cassette and chainring are less of a wear item. it's usually cheaper to replace chains early rather than wear out a cassette/ring and have to replace all three. look up Sheldon brown's site, there's a link to measuring chain wear with a ruler.

to answer your question though, keeping it well oiled and free of sand/mud/grit will help, as well as not shifting under excess load or crunching through your gears. hope that helps!

I have a park tools chain wear indicator. Also, my chain and cassette don't need to be replaced, I just want to get the most life out of the chain. It's a KMC X10SL DLC if that helps. I guess what I'm really asking is how can I get the most life out of my new chain. I know clean it and keep it well lubricated are #1.

As for maintenance, I'm going to clean and re-lube it every ride or two. I don't grind through the gears so I'm good there. I'll try harder not shift under to high of a load.

Posted: Apr 21, 2015 at 2:32 Quote
Any one know the best way to shave/cut of the integrated gyro mounts on my og sunday bmx frame was thinking of using a hack saw then a file but it looks quite tight for the saw to fit in

Posted: Apr 21, 2015 at 2:36 Quote
krystiancameron wrote:
Any one know the best way to shave/cut of the integrated gyro mounts on my og sunday bmx frame was thinking of using a hack saw then a file but it looks quite tight for the saw to fit in

leave them on. I know too many bmxers who have ground their mounts off, then 6 months later want me to drill holes in their headtube so they can put a gyro on. If you are really sure you will never need them, and really HAVE to lose those 2 grams of excess weight, then hacksaw them off as close to the frame as poss then file them flush.

Posted: Apr 21, 2015 at 2:44 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
krystiancameron wrote:
Any one know the best way to shave/cut of the integrated gyro mounts on my og sunday bmx frame was thinking of using a hack saw then a file but it looks quite tight for the saw to fit in

leave them on. I know too many bmxers who have ground their mounts off, then 6 months later want me to drill holes in their headtube so they can put a gyro on. If you are really sure you will never need them, and really HAVE to lose those 2 grams of excess weight, then hacksaw them off as close to the frame as poss then file them flush.

Never run breaks anyway but it's the fact that the person who had the frame before me cut the break mounts at the back so it would not be a option anyway it just looks really ugly with them on

Posted: Apr 21, 2015 at 3:18 Quote
krystiancameron wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
krystiancameron wrote:
Any one know the best way to shave/cut of the integrated gyro mounts on my og sunday bmx frame was thinking of using a hack saw then a file but it looks quite tight for the saw to fit in

leave them on. I know too many bmxers who have ground their mounts off, then 6 months later want me to drill holes in their headtube so they can put a gyro on. If you are really sure you will never need them, and really HAVE to lose those 2 grams of excess weight, then hacksaw them off as close to the frame as poss then file them flush.

Never run breaks anyway but it's the fact that the person who had the frame before me cut the break mounts at the back so it would not be a option anyway it just looks really ugly with them on

Fair enough, cant argue with that. Hacksaw then. Or an anglegrinder if you wanna do it quickly. Just don't heat your frame up so much you weaken the welds.

Don't cut your hand off either. Angle grinders are dangerous kids Smile

Posted: Apr 21, 2015 at 7:24 Quote
Bronco82 wrote:
I just got a new chain today and was wondering if I should get a new cassette too. I want the chain to last a long time so I can maybe save money. The cassette that's on my bike right now is a SRAM PG-1030 and I was thinking about going with a XT to match my XT rear shifter. The cassette itself isn't that old and doesn't have much use on it. maybe 30 hours if that.

I've found that I can usually get 2 chains per cassette before the cassette sprockets are worn down and about 3-4 chains for the front chainrings before I need to replace those. Ideally you'll want to replace everything all at once so you don't abnormally wear the parts but for a "radrod" bike I don't really care too much to be honest and that formula has been the cheapest for me for when I do maintenance on my cheap commuter bike.

^^^ BTW Angle grinders are super fun. I got the chance to cut a stuck fork off a steel frame without using a clamp (I did make sure the wheel was on tight though, don't want that exploding and killing me, also used safety glasses but no proper face shield). Super fun.

Posted: Apr 21, 2015 at 7:29 Quote
Tier1 wrote:
Bronco82 wrote:
I just got a new chain today and was wondering if I should get a new cassette too. I want the chain to last a long time so I can maybe save money. The cassette that's on my bike right now is a SRAM PG-1030 and I was thinking about going with a XT to match my XT rear shifter. The cassette itself isn't that old and doesn't have much use on it. maybe 30 hours if that.

I've found that I can usually get 2 chains per cassette before the cassette sprockets are worn down and about 3-4 chains for the front chainrings before I need to replace those. Ideally you'll want to replace everything all at once so you don't abnormally wear the parts but for a "radrod" bike I don't really care too much to be honest and that formula has been the cheapest for me for when I do maintenance on my bike.

^^^ BTW Angle grinders are super fun. I got the chance to cut a stuck fork off a steel frame without using a clamp (I did make sure the wheel was on tight though, don't want that exploding and killing me, also used safety glasses but no proper face shield). Super fun.

nothing makes you feel more manly than holding a screaming power tool which is angrily throwing showers of sparks in every direction. Extra points if stuff nearby catches fire.

Posted: Apr 21, 2015 at 7:43 Quote
Bronco82 wrote:
I just got a new chain today and was wondering if I should get a new cassette too. I want the chain to last a long time so I can maybe save money. The cassette that's on my bike right now is a SRAM PG-1030 and I was thinking about going with a XT to match my XT rear shifter. The cassette itself isn't that old and doesn't have much use on it. maybe 30 hours if that.

If you replace your chain and it just skips over the cassette's teeth then replace the cassette. This happened to me on a really well used cassette, new chain just slid off the rounded teeth and had to replace the whole cassette. I wouldn't replace that cassette unless absolutely necessary.

O+
Posted: Apr 21, 2015 at 14:51 Quote
When looking at my cassettes for wear I'll take a a small pick or flat head screwdriver and feel for any mushrooming around the teeth as the chain is wearing it.

Posted: Apr 21, 2015 at 15:41 Quote
There shouldn't be any mushrooming as the cassette is pretty new. I'll just put the chain on and keep my old one as a back up.

Posted: Apr 21, 2015 at 22:13 Quote
I have a 2013 34 talas ctd 150mm for a 26 wheel. What do i need to make it 160mm?

Posted: Apr 22, 2015 at 1:15 Quote
Got a odyssey hazard v3 that recently started skipping like every 4 or more cranks,took it apart and can't find a problem there's no ware marks or that running it will a little grease

O+
Posted: Apr 22, 2015 at 2:48 Quote
Been contemplating a cheap(ish) shift from 10 to 11 speed when the new 11 speed XT stuff comes out. Currently running 1X10 with OneUp 42t expander and slx RD with a OneUp RAD cage. Will this derailleur work with the new xt 11 speed shifters on an 11 speed cassette. I guess its just a case of whether the pull ratios (or whatever they are called) work out. the way i see it this won't work out much more expensive than replacing cassette and expander cog in time anyway.

as a side note, if this does work can anyone see any reason this shimano 10/11 speed set up wouldn't work with a sram 10-42 cassette in the future when bank balance allows?

Posted: Apr 22, 2015 at 3:33 Quote
drinktothat421 wrote:
I have a 2013 34 talas ctd 150mm for a 26 wheel. What do i need to make it 160mm?

A new fork. Typically, modern Fox forks can only be decreased in travel, not increased.


 


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