Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Apr 22, 2015 at 23:37 Quote
Quick Question, Can you remove the whole damper unit in a 32mm RS fork without removing the lowers? I'm thinking of buying a reba XX and then throwing in a mission control DNA damper.

Posted: Apr 22, 2015 at 23:42 Quote
millpill wrote:
Quick Question, Can you remove the whole damper unit in a 32mm RS fork without removing the lowers? I'm thinking of buying a reba XX and then throwing in a mission control DNA damper.
Not Really

Posted: Apr 23, 2015 at 1:56 Quote
Hey , so replacing the bearings in my demo 7 and alls going perfect apart from I can't seem to work out how to press out the rear bearings of the fsr link? Is the bearings at the rear dropout , each side has 2 bearings butted together with a spacer , any ideas ?

Posted: Apr 23, 2015 at 5:51 Quote
Nobble wrote:
millpill wrote:
Quick Question, Can you remove the whole damper unit in a 32mm RS fork without removing the lowers? I'm thinking of buying a reba XX and then throwing in a mission control DNA damper.
Not Really

Yeah you can remove the compression damper assembly from the top, don't think the mission control will fit though.

Posted: Apr 23, 2015 at 9:37 Quote
nathanb wrote:
Hey , so replacing the bearings in my demo 7 and alls going perfect apart from I can't seem to work out how to press out the rear bearings of the fsr link? Is the bearings at the rear dropout , each side has 2 bearings butted together with a spacer , any ideas ?

Watch this dude.....
he also has videos on how to make a puller.
http://youtu.be/HoIMCVvf9sw

O+
Posted: Apr 23, 2015 at 10:12 Quote
hi guys
i have replaced the du bushings and shock hardware on my orange five and there is still play up and down. when i do up the front triangle shock mount one side moves up and down and side to side like it is rounded, could this be the cause of the play.

thanks
josh Salute

Posted: Apr 23, 2015 at 11:49 Quote
millpill wrote:
knucklehead179 wrote:
I have a triple compact crank set and I was wondering if I could replace it with a double standard crank for my road bike. Can I do this without having issue/s with my front derailleur? Correct me if I'm wrong, there is no issue in me using my triple brifter with the double standard crank set.

Yeah, it should work, just use the limit screws to line it up right

Thanks!

Posted: Apr 23, 2015 at 11:52 Quote
For my other bike, a 2010 giant seek that I am trying to complete. Got the frame from someone else without most of its parts. Im trying to find out what front derailleur to use. What do I need to know in determining the right derailleur for it? I know that I need a clamp on type derailleur with the cable coming from the top. The front has a double and the rear is an 8-speed.

Posted: Apr 23, 2015 at 12:42 Quote
Scotj009 wrote:
hi guys
i have replaced the du bushings and shock hardware on my orange five and there is still play up and down. when i do up the front triangle shock mount one side moves up and down and side to side like it is rounded, could this be the cause of the play.

thanks
josh Salute

what shock hardware did you buy?

O+
Posted: Apr 23, 2015 at 12:57 Quote
tf tuned high impact, 22 x 8, 12.7

Posted: Apr 23, 2015 at 13:55 Quote
I've encountered a couple of problems with my rear shock.. When I pump it up, it starts to lose air at about 100psi (first problem) even though it's tightly screwed on. Secondly, when I try to take the pump off the shock, all the air is lost so I'm back down at 0psi.. I have already been told that this shouldn't happen but I don't know how to fix it? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Oh and the shock is a fox brain shock.

Many thanks

Posted: Apr 23, 2015 at 14:37 Quote
try checking the valve core is screwed in all the way and maybe try swapping it out as well.

if it is not that you can submerge it in water and pump it up to see where the air is coming from.

Posted: Apr 23, 2015 at 14:43 Quote
Am I able to use 280mm spokes in place of 278 and 279mm? The wheel I'm building according to the calculator needs 28x 278mm and 28x 279mm (front wheel needs 14x278mm and 14x279mm, rear wheel needs the same). Someone mentioned to me that I "might" be able to get 28x 280mm and that the extra 1-2mm doesn't really make a difference other than when I go to screw in the nipples that I might bottom out on the threads or they'll stick further inside the rim than they should and I might not be able to get proper tension.

Then the question becomes Sapim Race double butted OR DT Competition double butted. Ideally I wanted to get triple butted to make it super rigid but my LBS doesn't carry them and I'd have to special order them at $130 for a box of 72 in one size (because I don't want to buy 2 boxes of 278 and 279).

Posted: Apr 23, 2015 at 14:49 Quote
you answered you own question really, but why not get 278 instead of 280 if you think there is a chance they will bottom out?

both the spokes you mention are good, cannot see it making a lot of difference which you choose.

Posted: Apr 23, 2015 at 14:54 Quote
iffy wrote:
you answered you own question really, but why not get 278 instead of 280 if you think there is a chance they will bottom out?

both the spokes you mention are good, cannot see it making a lot of difference which you choose.

Thanks, sounds good. I'll have to see what the better deal on spokes are for that case then, and ask if my LBS will sell me a smaller bag of like 25 in the correct size otherwise I'll probably end up buying a single bag of the spoke that fits best.


 


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