Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag bigburd
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 11:07 Quote
Torque-HUN wrote:
A few turns from the start won't even touch the spring.
There is like 5 cm space between them.
So I guess you meant after a few turns when they touch.
Well that is still really soft.
I know how it was set when I bought, just the feeling changed a bit, I turned the ring back to the original position, still feels different.

oldmanDan wrote:
Torque-HUN wrote:
Hi there!

Should I keep my post, or put it here instead?

https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=170953

Sorry, first time I had to ask a technical. Smile



How many turns did you put on the preload ring?
'A few turns ' says too many! If you have to put more than 2 full turns then you need a heavier spring.
2 full turns from when the collar 1st touches the spring he means dude.
flag Torque-HUN
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 11:22 Quote
bigburd wrote:
Torque-HUN wrote:
A few turns from the start won't even touch the spring.
There is like 5 cm space between them.
So I guess you meant after a few turns when they touch.
Well that is still really soft.
I know how it was set when I bought, just the feeling changed a bit, I turned the ring back to the original position, still feels different.

oldmanDan wrote:





How many turns did you put on the preload ring?
'A few turns ' says too many! If you have to put more than 2 full turns then you need a heavier spring.
2 full turns from when the collar 1st touches the spring he means dude.

Thank you for the reply, to be clear I am showing you this:

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/archive/2013/demofsr/demo8i#specs

So I have it at the same position as on the picture, full stock setting.
But tomorrow I am going to ride it on a track, I will pay more attention for the movement, and see how it works now. Smile
flag millpill
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 12:17 Quote
rclugnut wrote:
millpill wrote:
So I've decided that I need to ghetto mod my hub. I need to drill out my endcaps from a 5mm QR to 10mm thru. It's a laserdisc hub, so there are 2 endcaps, one permanantly pressed into the axle, one as a press fit. There's a but that sticks out that sits in the frame, and I think that that would be a pretty good reference point for drilling straight. My problem is that 10mm drill bits are a little difficult to find and the one that I found ships to me in 2 months. (ain't nobody got time for that) Is 3/8in (9.58mm) close enough? My 10mm i9s are pretty much a slip-fit, but Ive had a 10mm spesh wheel and that had a little bit of play between the axle and the hub interface. Whaddya guys think?



Anyone have access to a lathe or something and wanna help a brotha out? Wink


http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-drill-bits/=xbip0e


They have every size you could need and a few warehouses so shipping is fast too...

I forgot about that website...

I've heard that the alloy they use for the endcaps are pretty solid. Do I need a carbide bit, or can I do with high speed steel?

Also, does anyone know where they still have WTB hub parts? I checked with WTB and they still havent responded.
flag thisguyalex
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 12:51 Quote
HSS will do it, but you will never get it straight without a proper jig and press
flag kranked350z
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 13:49 Quote
Does anyone know how to make your stem from moving around, Ive tighten all the bolts but every time i do a trick they keep moving around.
flag thisguyalex
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 13:52 Quote
Or if you're near an auto parts store, valve lapping compound. Basically the same thing.
Only it's coarser so I would not use it on carbon.
flag rclugnut
O+
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 13:59 Quote
millpill wrote:
rclugnut wrote:
millpill wrote:
So I've decided that I need to ghetto mod my hub. I need to drill out my endcaps from a 5mm QR to 10mm thru. It's a laserdisc hub, so there are 2 endcaps, one permanantly pressed into the axle, one as a press fit. There's a but that sticks out that sits in the frame, and I think that that would be a pretty good reference point for drilling straight. My problem is that 10mm drill bits are a little difficult to find and the one that I found ships to me in 2 months. (ain't nobody got time for that) Is 3/8in (9.58mm) close enough? My 10mm i9s are pretty much a slip-fit, but Ive had a 10mm spesh wheel and that had a little bit of play between the axle and the hub interface. Whaddya guys think?



Anyone have access to a lathe or something and wanna help a brotha out? Wink


http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-drill-bits/=xbip0e


They have every size you could need and a few warehouses so shipping is fast too...

I forgot about that website...

I've heard that the alloy they use for the endcaps are pretty solid. Do I need a carbide bit, or can I do with high speed steel?

Also, does anyone know where they still have WTB hub parts? I checked with WTB and they still havent responded.

HSS is fine for aluminum just spend 5 min reading up on drill speeds and keeping it vertical will the hardest part, it should center no problem...
flag thisguyalex
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 14:04 Quote
Need to center punch a starting point for the bit
flag debonis
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 15:30 Quote
Is there any substitute I can use for SLickoleum/Slick Honey for my O-rings in my air fork?
flag robby29
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 16:00 Quote
Hey Knowledgable pinkbike users,
I have a fox float ctd evolution rear shock and I am getting a little bit of oil after rides on the shaft. Nothing to phone home about, but I am thinking I need to service it before the summer so I don't have to think about it or blow it out on a trip I take. Does this sound like i just need to buy the air sleeve kit for about $10 and replace those seals. Or is it something that I have to send to fox and get them to service? Also if it is the send to fox option is there a way to do it myself (College student with no money)? Thanks ahead of time.
flag griff369
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 17:05 Quote
seal kit should fix your problem. The only reason to send it away is if it needs to be recharged with nitrogen.
flag robby29
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 17:06 Quote
griff369 wrote:
seal kit should fix your problem. The only reason to send it away is if it needs to be recharged with nitrogen.

Sweet Thanks man!! What does the oil leak from? is it just lubricant from inside of the air sleeve?
flag griff369
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 17:41 Quote
There is only 5ml of oil in the whole shock. It's actually float fluid (fox's own "special" oil) and probably just time for new Internal seals. Super easy to do just make sure you remove the valve core before unscrewing the air canister or you will have a bomb.
flag riish
Posted: May 24, 2015 at 20:09 Quote
make sure you thread a rag through the lower eyelet to prevent anything blowing off and breaking/taking your eye out just in case it didn't depressurise properly.

 


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