Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 2:34 Quote
jackstack wrote:
Hey Guys - Would it be fine to run brakes Upside down?

What happened was is my bro was the one that ordered the brakes for me and it turned out that they were Front Left and Rear Right and in order for me to Run them in the enlish configuration they would be upside down would that bef ine?

Just swap the hoses around...

Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 3:27 Quote
RyanWensley wrote:
jackstack wrote:
Hey Guys - Would it be fine to run brakes Upside down?

What happened was is my bro was the one that ordered the brakes for me and it turned out that they were Front Left and Rear Right and in order for me to Run them in the enlish configuration they would be upside down would that bef ine?

Just swap the hoses around...

Thanks Man Im a Twat, I shit you not i have been doing loads of bike stuff for a good ten years and i cant belive that this didnt come to mind. I guess we all have a derp moment

Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 4:01 Quote
makripper wrote:
el-booto wrote:
makripper wrote:
I have a super wierd one, its a fine line really.

my Giant glory advanced has a M/L tune on my vivid coil R2C. it uses a 9.5 x 3.0 shock and has 8 inches of travel. I'm up to a 450lb spring and still bottom it.

A. I get a vivid air R2C with a M/M tune and may have a better tuning window.
B. I get a vivid air R2C with a M/L tune and increase the PSI
C. I get a vivid coil R2C with a M/M tune and keep the same or reduce the spring rate.

The bike is fairly linear but is right on the edge between tunes between the M/M and M/L as the ratio is 2.66667 to 1

suggestions?

D) buy an RC4, crank in the bottom out, max pressure and that should solve the problem

E) track down a 475lb spring for the existing vivid
I hate rc4's haha had nothing but bad luck with 3 of them. The bike is already over sprung on the trail with maybe 15 percent sag? I bottom it too often still. Very wierd feeling. Maybe an x2, but I'm be in the same boat with tunes.

Maybe way off the mark here, but when was the shock last serviced? If its been a while you may either have air in the damping oil, or if particularly heavy oil was used, it may have now broken down and become thinner. If you are oversprung, running max settings and you dont think the tune is way off, and still using too much travel, try getting the shock re-bled. Might fix everything. Might make no difference whatsoever...

I also really dislike the idea of running an RC4 with bottom out all the way in and max pressure. The peak pressure in that shock would be f*cking huuuge. Frequent servicing required I reckon...

Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 8:19 Quote
Not to mention the vivid is on another tier to the rc4...

Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 8:23 Quote
Has anyone else had a ton of problems with Shimano Zee? I've only had it five months at most and it's only seen 5 park days yet the clutch switch is already broken and it's never shifted well even though it was tuned properly at a shop. Should I just count my loses and buy a saint rear derailleur?

Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 8:26 Quote
How is the clutch broken?

Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 8:38 Quote
Got mine a few months after they started selling zee, Rode it a fair ammount for about 8 months, and never even needed to adjust it. i still have it now nearly 2 years later, and its still running fine, Have used the bike maybe 10 times in the last 15 months and have still not adjusted it.

Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 8:43 Quote
Nobble wrote:
How is the clutch broken?
The actual switch has cracked and just about fallen off. It won't say in one position anymore.

Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 8:44 Quote
It's taken a couple of crashes but nothing seriously hard.

Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 8:47 Quote
TBLeldarado wrote:
It's taken a couple of crashes but nothing seriously hard.

Shimano warranty is real good they replaced my Zee brake no questions asked.

Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 8:56 Quote
TBLeldarado wrote:
Has anyone else had a ton of problems with Shimano Zee? I've only had it five months at most and it's only seen 5 park days yet the clutch switch is already broken and it's never shifted well even though it was tuned properly at a shop. Should I just count my loses and buy a saint rear derailleur?

"it's never shifted well even though it was tuned properly at a shop"
If a shop tuned it for you, and handed it over not shifting properly, then that shop sucks. They should either give it to you working, or tell you why it isn't working.

"it's only seen 5 park days yet the clutch switch is already broken"
Broken how? Has something hit it?

I love my saint mech. It is leagues better than a zee mech. However I know of at least 3 zee mechs which I have personally seen put through some serious shit for well over a year and still work lovely. I know of hundreds of zee mechs which although I dont actually see them being ridden, they come into the shop on well used bikes. And work fine.

Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 9:52 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
makripper wrote:
el-booto wrote:


D) buy an RC4, crank in the bottom out, max pressure and that should solve the problem

E) track down a 475lb spring for the existing vivid
I hate rc4's haha had nothing but bad luck with 3 of them. The bike is already over sprung on the trail with maybe 15 percent sag? I bottom it too often still. Very wierd feeling. Maybe an x2, but I'm be in the same boat with tunes.

Maybe way off the mark here, but when was the shock last serviced? If its been a while you may either have air in the damping oil, or if particularly heavy oil was used, it may have now broken down and become thinner. If you are oversprung, running max settings and you dont think the tune is way off, and still using too much travel, try getting the shock re-bled. Might fix everything. Might make no difference whatsoever...

I also really dislike the idea of running an RC4 with bottom out all the way in and max pressure. The peak pressure in that shock would be f*cking huuuge. Frequent servicing required I reckon...
its felt the same since it was new. But that may be part of the issue. Rockshox qa/qc has been spotty lately

Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 10:17 Quote
makripper wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
makripper wrote:
I hate rc4's haha had nothing but bad luck with 3 of them. The bike is already over sprung on the trail with maybe 15 percent sag? I bottom it too often still. Very wierd feeling. Maybe an x2, but I'm be in the same boat with tunes.

Maybe way off the mark here, but when was the shock last serviced? If its been a while you may either have air in the damping oil, or if particularly heavy oil was used, it may have now broken down and become thinner. If you are oversprung, running max settings and you dont think the tune is way off, and still using too much travel, try getting the shock re-bled. Might fix everything. Might make no difference whatsoever...

I also really dislike the idea of running an RC4 with bottom out all the way in and max pressure. The peak pressure in that shock would be f*cking huuuge. Frequent servicing required I reckon...
its felt the same since it was new. But that may be part of the issue. Rockshox qa/qc has been spotty lately

Hmm. I'd try a re bleed, but I'd be more confident that was the problem if you had said you bought it second hand and the shock was heavily used when you got it.

Maybe if there is a friendly enough suspension tuning company near you, you could call them up and see if they'd agree to stick it on their dyno for you for a small fee, and talk through the results with you before you decide to have them re-bleed, re-tune, or just send it back to you so you can sell it as is and buy a different shock.

Its a good shock, I'd be surprised if you couldn't achieve a good setup on it on a Glory. Even if you are bang in the middle of MM and ML , I assume there's enough shims in there that they could make you up a tune somewhere between those two.

Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 10:24 Quote
Cheers mate
maxlombardy wrote:
piersgritten wrote:
Hi, I am looking into upgrading to 1x 10, what bolts do I need for my cranks I have heard that I can saw down my ones to fit? If this is not possible/a good idea which bolts are cheapest for the job
Cheer's
It depends on the crank. Basically most cranks the answer is yes you need shallower/shirter bolts. You can use a grinder to make your current bolts a few mm shorter or just cruise eBay for some singlespeed crank bolts

Alternatively, raceface sells little tabs that space out your bolts so you can reuse the old ones.

Posted: Nov 28, 2015 at 11:47 Quote
TBLeldarado wrote:
Has anyone else had a ton of problems with Shimano Zee? I've only had it five months at most and it's only seen 5 park days yet the clutch switch is already broken and it's never shifted well even though it was tuned properly at a shop. Should I just count my loses and buy a saint rear derailleur?
I overheard a conversation once at the top of an enduro stage between two riders who both had Zee mechs. Rider 1 was complaining about how the clutch on his mech was gone, and how the chain kept falling of because of it. Rider 2 said the same thing happened to him before and that he had to dissemble the clutch and replace the springs in it or something like that. That's all I know about Zee stuff...


 


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