Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag ajax-ripper
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 10:37 Quote
Can we get a picture of what you have going on?
flag christopheryang
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 10:43 Quote
Art's has a good write up here:

http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/wider-and-stiffer-but-necessary-boost-148-explained/

i believe you won't be able to achieve the proper chain line with a boost frame and non-boost crank:

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://blog.artscyclery.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/max_2_up_chainline_657929.jpg
flag ajax-ripper
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 10:52 Quote
Depending on how he is set up he may be able to adjust a little bit
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 11:12 Quote
its 3mm.Your chainline will be out by 3mm. your cassette is nearly 40mm wide. 3mm is nothing. Chainline really isnt an issue. However I wouldnt really be happy running more than 2 bb spacers unless your bb cups have a particularly long insertion. Even then I'd have second thoughts. Maybe get a 34 round chainring, or just stick with the 32 oval.
flag ColinD
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 12:49 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
its 3mm.Your chainline will be out by 3mm. your cassette is nearly 40mm wide. 3mm is nothing. Chainline really isnt an issue. However I wouldnt really be happy running more than 2 bb spacers unless your bb cups have a particularly long insertion. Even then I'd have second thoughts. Maybe get a 34 round chainring, or just stick with the 32 oval.

The 34T oval gives me a 2 mm higher chainline due to the lack of threads. So might just fit. If not i will proberbly get some boost hope cranks and put these on the Commencal.
The problem is more chainstay clearance then chainline realy.
flag TheUnknownMTBR
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 14:17 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
Turning the BB the way you pedal will loosen it, goingopposite of pedalling direction will tighten. (DRIVESIDE REVERSE THREAD)

Yep, good old Victorian engineering fail be damned, lol ...
flag ajax-ripper
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 15:43 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
its 3mm.Your chainline will be out by 3mm. your cassette is nearly 40mm wide. 3mm is nothing. Chainline really isnt an issue. However I wouldnt really be happy running more than 2 bb spacers unless your bb cups have a particularly long insertion. Even then I'd have second thoughts. Maybe get a 34 round chainring, or just stick with the 32 oval.
Newer shimano BB's come with a 1/2 width BB spacer it may be possible for him to fine tune his set up with a couple of those methinks. But without seeing what he has nobody could say for sure.
flag Nobble
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 17:04 Quote
TheUnknownMTBR wrote:
ajax-ripper wrote:
Turning the BB the way you pedal will loosen it, goingopposite of pedalling direction will tighten. (DRIVESIDE REVERSE THREAD)

Yep, good old Victorian engineering fail be damned, lol ...
so you'd prefer the BB cups be forced into the frame if the BB seizes?
flag banana2301
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 17:05 Quote
Safety vs making it another person's problem.... (Lbs wrench)

Your average Joe would be all over safety.
flag Alexmarshman
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 18:54 Quote
I have a problem with my reverb. The post works fine but the button is very stiff to press and returns very slowly. I was wondering if any of you knew of a way to get rid of the stiction.
thanks,
Alex
flag Thepureface
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 19:07 Quote
Guys if I tighten the bearing preload bolt on my stem as tight as I can, with the pinch bolts loose and the bearings still spin freely.

What would cause this problem?

I think it's the concave washer that fits under that compression bolt, it seems like it's just contacting my steerer not allowing me to get proper bearing preload. But my spacers a good 3-4 mm above the steerer?

Could it be the star but slipping? How to diagnose?
flag TheUnknownMTBR
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 19:26 Quote
Nobble wrote:
TheUnknownMTBR wrote:
ajax-ripper wrote:
Turning the BB the way you pedal will loosen it, goingopposite of pedalling direction will tighten. (DRIVESIDE REVERSE THREAD)

Yep, good old Victorian engineering fail be damned, lol ...

so you'd prefer the BB cups be forced into the frame if the BB seizes?

you're obviously not an Engineer, so what do you do for a living?
flag cyberoptixs
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 19:27 Quote
Thepureface wrote:
Guys if I tighten the bearing preload bolt on my stem as tight as I can, with the pinch bolts loose and the bearings still spin freely.

What would cause this problem?

I think it's the concave washer that fits under that compression bolt, it seems like it's just contacting my steerer not allowing me to get proper bearing preload. But my spacers a good 3-4 mm above the steerer?

Could it be the star but slipping? How to diagnose?
star nut shouldnt slip it takes a special tool to pull them so I doubt it but look in The steer tube does it look like the but is moving your other option is to put a spacer on top of your stem to create more distance or take it to your local bike shop get them to cut a 1/8 off and pound down or replace the star nut
flag rclugnut
O+
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 19:37 Quote
soulless wrote:
Thepureface wrote:
Guys if I tighten the bearing preload bolt on my stem as tight as I can, with the pinch bolts loose and the bearings still spin freely.

What would cause this problem?

I think it's the concave washer that fits under that compression bolt, it seems like it's just contacting my steerer not allowing me to get proper bearing preload. But my spacers a good 3-4 mm above the steerer?

Could it be the star but slipping? How to diagnose?
star nut shouldnt slip it takes a special tool to pull them so I doubt it but look in The steer tube does it look like the but is moving your other option is to put a spacer on top of your stem to create more distance or take it to your local bike shop get them to cut a 1/8 off and pound down or replace the star nut

I've had a star nut slip before, try adding small spacer like 3mm to your stack, your top cap may be bottoming out on the steerer. I would just have a taller spacer on the top in case 3mm is too much and it wants to wiggle...
flag thejoeyreinhart
Posted: May 26, 2016 at 19:38 Quote
Hi guys,

Rear wheel on my 2012 Voltage FR20 isn't doing so hot. Thinking of picking up a cheapish hoop like a 729 or an MTX 33 from CRC for my first wheel build. Can anyone help me out with some good resources like a good tutorial link and a reliable spoke length calculator? I've got basic truing down, just hoping to be as knowledgable as some of you someday.

Thanks!

 


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