Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag iffy
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 6:07 Quote
check fork adaptor mounting area and caliper adaptor for any signs of rubbing, might be caused by fork legs /axle twisting after a jump/drop?

you could try removing the pads and doing a drop to eliminate or confirm them as the cause, (just remember not to use the brake Eek )
flag Maverick18T
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 8:51 Quote
Hello,

I've got a 2013 Pike RCT3 solo air and I'm wondering if it's possible to convert it from 26 to 650b by ordering new lowers. I figure the cost of new lowers would be less than the difference of me selling may pike and buying a new one. However if I gotta buy a new dampener and uppers than I might as well just sell my 26" pike. From what I understand the uppers have different offsets but I don't think I'd let that stop me. The dampener though has different part numbers for 26 and 650b and that might stop me however I'm not sure what the actual difference is. My air shaft is marked 26 160 and 650b 150 so I should be able to use it.
flag Scott787
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 9:25 Quote
Hey guys,

I have a question for any suspension people out there. I was told I could lower my 2011 rockshox Lyrik from 170 to 150mm. How possible is this? Also I'm having a hard time finding an air shaft specific to the Lyrik, can I use a pike air shaft instead?

I'm not sure how possible this is but the guy who gave me the Lyrik is a friend who's been riding for something like 15 years and he's been doing his own mechanic work for a long time. The forks going on a 2011 giant reign which was designed with a 150mm fork in mind. Hoping not to have to raise it 10mm

Thanks!
flag banana2301
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 10:33 Quote
Maverick18T wrote:
Hello,

I've got a 2013 Pike RCT3 solo air and I'm wondering if it's possible to convert it from 26 to 650b by ordering new lowers. I figure the cost of new lowers would be less than the difference of me selling may pike and buying a new one. However if I gotta buy a new dampener and uppers than I might as well just sell my 26" pike. From what I understand the uppers have different offsets but I don't think I'd let that stop me. The dampener though has different part numbers for 26 and 650b and that might stop me however I'm not sure what the actual difference is. My air shaft is marked 26 160 and 650b 150 so I should be able to use it.
Sell it and buy a new one.
flag oldmanDan
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 10:37 Quote
landscapeben wrote:
Running "formula the one" disc brake on front with a 203mm rotor and keep getting this awful metallic scraping noise like a pad is drifting over and just scraping the surface of the disc right after a jump or drop off. It's intermittent not constant. Any ideas? Driving me nuts!

Formula brakes often do this, it's just due to the extremely fine pad clearance they have.
Check your rotor is true and your caliper straight.
Reset the pistons if you want and realign the caliper.
I spent about two hours trying to line it up perfectly, got it silent, and ten minutes later it's back! It's an annoying sound but mine only do it while pushing, never when riding.
flag oldmanDan
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 10:52 Quote
Scott787 wrote:
Hey guys,

I have a question for any suspension people out there. I was told I could lower my 2011 rockshox Lyrik from 170 to 150mm. How possible is this? Also I'm having a hard time finding an air shaft specific to the Lyrik, can I use a pike air shaft instead?

I'm not sure how possible this is but the guy who gave me the Lyrik is a friend who's been riding for something like 15 years and he's been doing his own mechanic work for a long time. The forks going on a 2011 giant reign which was designed with a 150mm fork in mind. Hoping not to have to raise it 10mm

Thanks!

The older lyrik has a spacer to adjust the travel.

It's a 10mm spacer that goes on the air spring shaft to adjust from 170 to 160mm
If you can get two and put them in, it should work.
photo
flag ajax-ripper
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 11:25 Quote
riish wrote:
Tmonster2301 wrote:
crs-one wrote:


Wow, that's weird as hell. I'm going to be thinking about that for at least a week.
Frame is cracked, and moving the post allowed or restricted movement causing the creak to disappear Wink

this was when it was a month old, it wasn't cracked (not yet, anyway)
Likely an open spot in the bottom of the seat tube contacting the post when the bike flexed.
flag bunjiman82
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 12:30 Quote
oldmanDan wrote:
landscapeben wrote:
Running "formula the one" disc brake on front with a 203mm rotor and keep getting this awful metallic scraping noise like a pad is drifting over and just scraping the surface of the disc right after a jump or drop off. It's intermittent not constant. Any ideas? Driving me nuts!

Formula brakes often do this, it's just due to the extremely fine pad clearance they have.
Check your rotor is true and your caliper straight.
Reset the pistons if you want and realign the caliper.
I spent about two hours trying to line it up perfectly, got it silent, and ten minutes later it's back! It's an annoying sound but mine only do it while pushing, never when riding.

Thanks iffy and oldmandan, definitely not rubbing on anything except the pads but it just sounds like one of the pads drifts out and scrapes sometimes, only when I'm riding rough and it goes if I squeeze the brake lightly... I'll have to check if maybe the pass aren't seated correctly. I have had to true the rotor a number of times I think the 203mm disk warps from heat build up too easily, I'm going to invest in an ice cooling fin rotor from superstar maybe...
flag riish
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 12:55 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
riish wrote:
Tmonster2301 wrote:

Frame is cracked, and moving the post allowed or restricted movement causing the creak to disappear Wink

this was when it was a month old, it wasn't cracked (not yet, anyway)
Likely an open spot in the bottom of the seat tube contacting the post when the bike flexed.

thank you, I've been wondering about that one for a while!
flag DillonThomson24
O+
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 13:56 Quote
melias24 wrote:
Tmonster2301 wrote:
Dynex wrote:


Just use the GX Rear Mech that will work with any 11sp sram cassette and the pull ratios from an 11sp NX shifter should be the same as a GX shifter. If you're mixing and matching you might as well use the GX rear mech was my suggestion. And while it may just be me but I didnt notice the weight reduction when I upgraded my cassette I personally think cassette weight is stupid.


NX will work with any 11 speed mountain cassette Facepalm

the whole point of getting nx is to save money as there is almost no weight savings and it shifts the same, plus it has a 3rd Gen clutch. And you'll save like 20 bucks.

All Shimano 11 speed mountain and Sram 11 speed mountain is cross compatible, no matter the model. So cassettes and cranks from both brands work with others. You can't mix and match shifters between brands.

You won't feel the difference from just a lighter cassette but it adds to the total weight of your bike and is a great place to save weight.plus they usually shift better.

Thanks for that. The trance is already a really light bike (considering i used to own a Big Hit 1 FSR) so i don't really mind about the weight, but it would be good to save weight.

I think ill just get the XT M8000 cassette, then the NX mech, NX shifter and the 11 speed chain. $317 posted to me from Jenson.

Could you confirm that this looks right please and that it will all work right together?
https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/14082010/

My other option is to buy a full groupset that i will also get cranks with for $300aud posted, except it's used.

You'll need to run a kmc or shimano chai with that cassette as the sram one is not compatible. I recommend the kmc they have a quick link.
flag Scotj009
O+
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 14:27 Quote
That's lies, srams work perfectly fine!
flag Nobble
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 14:30 Quote
Scotj009 wrote:
That's lies, srams work perfectly fine!
Shimano chains are asymmetrical to catch the upshift and down shift ramps correctly. It will work much better with a Shimano chain than anyone else's chain.



Edit: and for the guy lowering a lyrik, you can lower them as much as you want. I have mine down to 90mm on my hardtail. The old ones use travel spacers instead of a new air shaft.
flag banana2301
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 14:38 Quote
Nobble wrote:
Scotj009 wrote:
That's lies, srams work perfectly fine!
Shimano chains are asymmetrical to catch the upshift and down shift ramps correctly. It will work much better with a Shimano chain than anyone else's chain.



Edit: and for the guy lowering a lyrik, you can lower them as much as you want. I have mine down to 90mm on my hardtail. The old ones use travel spacers instead of a new air shaft.
Ive been using a Sram chain lol , I'll pick up a shitmano as the next one and see how it does.
flag dirtnapped
O+
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 15:10 Quote
Where's Canada? My RF narrow wide ring didn't include a sticker. Very upset.
flag Maverick18T
Posted: Oct 26, 2016 at 15:28 Quote
Nobble wrote:
Scotj009 wrote:
That's lies, srams work perfectly fine!
Shimano chains are asymmetrical to catch the upshift and down shift ramps correctly. It will work much better with a Shimano chain than anyone else's chain.



Edit: and for the guy lowering a lyrik, you can lower them as much as you want. I have mine down to 90mm on my hardtail. The old ones use travel spacers instead of a new air shaft.

Not true. Shimano was having problems with people putting asymmetrical chains on backwards and complaining about shift performance, even some companies were putting them on backwards on their complete bikes.

Since the introduction of XTR M9000 Shimano stopped using asymmetrical chains across all models. If you have a new chain at home you'll notice every other link on the chain has the logo upside down to show that it's symmetrical. Unless you bought old stock or keep chains laying around its not likely you'll find a Shimano asymmetrical chain.

 


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