Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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O+
Posted: Dec 10, 2016 at 10:49 Quote
MaximumOfBass wrote:
So, I got a question about my Garmin Edge 1000, don't really know where to post it but I'm going to take a guess that somebody here will know an answer.
When I'm out biking, I like to record my tracks with my GPS, but I'm a lot of the time out for the whole day which drains my battery at the end of the day which then results in losing my ride and that sucks. So I started thinking about a powerbank which could be usefull for both my GPS and iPhone on the road. Are there things at which I should look when buying a powerbank or are there specific things which could result in a not working powerbank? Thanks in advance!

I wouldn't spend a lot of $ on one at all... Look at the spec's for them and for your device. Battery capacity is measured in Amp hours (Ah) or milliAmp Hours (mAh). 1Ah=1000mAh. It may also be displayed in Watt hours (Wh), Wh=V*Ah (where V is the voltage of the cell). Then look at your phone/gps specs it should say in small print the size of your battery in mah or wattage. By putting everything in terms of wattage is going to be the most universal measurement but if you're looking at a phone or gps with a powerbox typically Ah is fine to go between because they're all running off the same votlage battery. I'm skipping some of the finer points (feel free to PM if you want the long story) but long story short look at capacity (Ah) of the two and decide what you need.


Most phones come with a 2-3Ah cell. I picked up a 9ah power box off monoprice.com for about $20 that worked great. Keep in mind, 9Ah of power from the box wont = 3 full charges of your phone, theres a few conversions that go on for reasons (again feel free to PM me). I would guess you get about 80% out of the box into your phone.

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=108&cp_id=10831&cs_id=1083110&p_id=15120&seq=1&format=2

one of these bad boys should be fine...

To name a brand that I see paraded around cell phone stores (verizon specifically) is Mophie. My mom had one from somewhere and gave it to me. I looked it up. $150 for 12Ah of capacity. It has a nicer feel to it and wires built in. Not worth the extra $. I would pay $20 for it vs the linked model above in the same capacity.

Just my $.02 on the matter.

Also the only thing i would avoid is getting it wet. Good ways of waterproofing do-das like that are putting them in a ballon (or condom for that matter) and zip tieing the end shut around the wires.

O+
Posted: Dec 11, 2016 at 0:47 Quote
rclugnut wrote:
MaximumOfBass wrote:
So, I got a question about my Garmin Edge 1000, don't really know where to post it but I'm going to take a guess that somebody here will know an answer.
When I'm out biking, I like to record my tracks with my GPS, but I'm a lot of the time out for the whole day which drains my battery at the end of the day which then results in losing my ride and that sucks. So I started thinking about a powerbank which could be usefull for both my GPS and iPhone on the road. Are there things at which I should look when buying a powerbank or are there specific things which could result in a not working powerbank? Thanks in advance!

I wouldn't spend a lot of $ on one at all... Look at the spec's for them and for your device. Battery capacity is measured in Amp hours (Ah) or milliAmp Hours (mAh). 1Ah=1000mAh. It may also be displayed in Watt hours (Wh), Wh=V*Ah (where V is the voltage of the cell). Then look at your phone/gps specs it should say in small print the size of your battery in mah or wattage. By putting everything in terms of wattage is going to be the most universal measurement but if you're looking at a phone or gps with a powerbox typically Ah is fine to go between because they're all running off the same votlage battery. I'm skipping some of the finer points (feel free to PM if you want the long story) but long story short look at capacity (Ah) of the two and decide what you need.


Most phones come with a 2-3Ah cell. I picked up a 9ah power box off monoprice.com for about $20 that worked great. Keep in mind, 9Ah of power from the box wont = 3 full charges of your phone, theres a few conversions that go on for reasons (again feel free to PM me). I would guess you get about 80% out of the box into your phone.

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=108&cp_id=10831&cs_id=1083110&p_id=15120&seq=1&format=2

one of these bad boys should be fine...

To name a brand that I see paraded around cell phone stores (verizon specifically) is Mophie. My mom had one from somewhere and gave it to me. I looked it up. $150 for 12Ah of capacity. It has a nicer feel to it and wires built in. Not worth the extra $. I would pay $20 for it vs the linked model above in the same capacity.

Just my $.02 on the matter.

Also the only thing i would avoid is getting it wet. Good ways of waterproofing do-das like that are putting them in a ballon (or condom for that matter) and zip tieing the end shut around the wires.

Thanks man, really appreciate the explanation and help!

Posted: Dec 11, 2016 at 2:30 Quote
I've been running an Anker Powercore 10000. Recharges my garmin to full about 5 times and I just keep mine in a waterproof sleeve with a USB dangling out. Perfect so far when I've been bikepacking

Posted: Dec 11, 2016 at 19:53 Quote
Hi,

I have a fox 36 talas and just bought set of crank brothers cobalt wheels,

After seeing that the cobalt adapters only came in 9mm and 15mm offerings

I'm wanting to convert them to 20mm for my fox 36

I came across a forum about this exact situation and read that the guy ended up getting his cobalt wheels converted to 20mm in the end.

Can anyone verify whether this is possible or not? as that is the only glimmer of hope i have at this point.

Crank brothers cobalt wheels for the stumpy

I really don't want to have to sell my forks.....

Cheers,

Rob

Posted: Dec 11, 2016 at 20:26 Quote
Sell the wheels, they got to many proprietary stuff on them.

It will just be endless problems when something goes wrong.

Plus your 36 is better than the wheels.

Posted: Dec 11, 2016 at 23:45 Quote
Are you talking about power banks. I recently a few months ago bought a Zendure A2 6700mAh. Its the smallest size they do. It was about £23 from Amazon.

It's really nicely made..I've dropped it quite a few times and it doesn't get damaged at all as it has an impact resistant casing. It's not water proof though.

I want to get the A5 16,750mAh next. Not that my A2 has ever gone flat but I've seen the A5 for less than £40..

I just put mine a plastic sealed bag to protect from water.


The only problem to watch is if you leave the cable connected it will drain the power..Might not matter though.

Zendure A2 6 700mAh. Fits it small coin pocket in jeans.

O+
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 1:08 Quote
I'm going to try out vorsprung's luftkappe air piston on my pike. I'm a proficient home mechanic and have built bikes from the frame up. I've service my monarch but my friend at the shop has done my fork. I'm pretty (youtube) confident in the job but I wanted to try some skf seals also. I picked up some snap ring pliers, seal pick, oil, and sram butter but I'm reluctant to throw down $20+ on the seal installation tool. Is this thing necessary? Is it easy enough to just use a socket? How tight are the tolerances and how easy is it to f up some $25 seals? Imbue me with you knowlege, great wrenches of the interweb. Thnx

Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 1:33 Quote
I've serviced my Pike but only lower legs. I've replaced my original Pike seals with Racing Bros then green SKF just out of bordem and interest. I like the green SKF seals. I have the new black skf seals that came in the Pike full service kit which I'd recommend buying even if you just want new seals as it's a bargain for £30 really seeing as seals alone are about £25 for skf.

I'm planning on changing my seal head to the SKF seal head as I'm pretty sure I have the original seal head that's supposed to be leaky.

I have all the oils, butter, circlip pliers, bleed valve and even the seal press. I bought my seal press from bikediscount with a few other bits as it was a fair bit cheaper at the time. I would get the seal press if you can as it's easy to press them in wonky even with the seal press. Make sure to grease the seals before pressing them in else they'll be really hard to press in and you'll never get them out again without damaging them.
But yeah it's pretty easy to swap seals. I use a screw driver wrapped in a cloth where it rests on the fork to pop them out and I haven't marked my forks with the blade tip or shaft yet.

I've had to put my seal head swap on hold for a bit as I need to buy some of the spanners and sockets that I don't have.


I still wonder about the correct amount of oil to put in my Pike lowers as mine(service manual) says 5ml and 15ml whereas others say 10ml and 10ml!...So I've always gone with 5ml and 15ml. I believe it is important not to add too much oil to the leg that takes 5ml or 10ml....

Actually it has 10cl printed on the silver/grey lower fork leg bolt head in my service kit but I think my other one has 5cl on it. I'm not sure about that though..it may say 15ml..sorry to confuse...

Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 1:49 Quote
Tmonster2301 wrote:
Sell the wheels, they got to many proprietary stuff on them.

It will just be endless problems when something goes wrong.

Plus your 36 is better than the wheels.

Just cancelled them and got a boxxer for my zumbi instead,

A wise move if i do say so myself.

Thanks for the help TMonster Smile

Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 3:16 Quote
scjeremy wrote:
I'm going to try out vorsprung's luftkappe air piston on my pike. I'm a proficient home mechanic and have built bikes from the frame up. I've service my monarch but my friend at the shop has done my fork. I'm pretty (youtube) confident in the job but I wanted to try some skf seals also. I picked up some snap ring pliers, seal pick, oil, and sram butter but I'm reluctant to throw down $20+ on the seal installation tool. Is this thing necessary? Is it easy enough to just use a socket? How tight are the tolerances and how easy is it to f up some $25 seals? Imbue me with you knowlege, great wrenches of the interweb. Thnx

I've never used a seal press for any of my forks, I always press them in with my hands.

Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 6:11 Quote
riish wrote:
scjeremy wrote:
I'm going to try out vorsprung's luftkappe air piston on my pike. I'm a proficient home mechanic and have built bikes from the frame up. I've service my monarch but my friend at the shop has done my fork. I'm pretty (youtube) confident in the job but I wanted to try some skf seals also. I picked up some snap ring pliers, seal pick, oil, and sram butter but I'm reluctant to throw down $20+ on the seal installation tool. Is this thing necessary? Is it easy enough to just use a socket? How tight are the tolerances and how easy is it to f up some $25 seals? Imbue me with you knowlege, great wrenches of the interweb. Thnx

I've never used a seal press for any of my forks, I always press them in with my hands.

Yeah sorry I should have said plenty of people say you can do it without a press although I've never tried..I only paid £9 for my Rockshox press soo...but lots of places charge silly money like £20 for a bit of plastic..which seems a lot for what it is.

O+
Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 7:16 Quote
I've also heard of PVC being used. I just have pressed seals in by hand, and with a flat section of a tool. But I have only done 32 rs and fox 32 and 36...

Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 8:29 Quote
rclugnut wrote:
I've also heard of PVC being used. I just have pressed seals in by hand, and with a flat section of a tool. But I have only done 32 rs and fox 32 and 36...

I've pressed in marzocchi 35's and RS 34 or 35's both by hand, I might have dabbed a tiny bit fork oil when they got stuborn... but like rclugnut mentioned, PVC (proper size of course) cut and deburred works just like the real thing. that's also what I use for wheel bearings and crown races... a PVC tube with a cap for hammering.

Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 8:31 Quote
silverfish1974 wrote:
I've serviced my Pike but only lower legs. I've replaced my original Pike seals with Racing Bros then green SKF just out of bordem and interest. I like the green SKF seals. I have the new black skf seals that came in the Pike full service kit which I'd recommend buying even if you just want new seals as it's a bargain for £30 really seeing as seals alone are about £25 for skf.

I'm planning on changing my seal head to the SKF seal head as I'm pretty sure I have the original seal head that's supposed to be leaky.

I have all the oils, butter, circlip pliers, bleed valve and even the seal press. I bought my seal press from bikediscount with a few other bits as it was a fair bit cheaper at the time. I would get the seal press if you can as it's easy to press them in wonky even with the seal press. Make sure to grease the seals before pressing them in else they'll be really hard to press in and you'll never get them out again without damaging them.
But yeah it's pretty easy to swap seals. I use a screw driver wrapped in a cloth where it rests on the fork to pop them out and I haven't marked my forks with the blade tip or shaft yet.

I've had to put my seal head swap on hold for a bit as I need to buy some of the spanners and sockets that I don't have.


I still wonder about the correct amount of oil to put in my Pike lowers as mine(service manual) says 5ml and 15ml whereas others say 10ml and 10ml!...So I've always gone with 5ml and 15ml. I believe it is important not to add too much oil to the leg that takes 5ml or 10ml....

Actually it has 10cl printed on the silver/grey lower fork leg bolt head in my service kit but I think my other one has 5cl on it. I'm not sure about that though..it may say 15ml..sorry to confuse...
you can check if it's 5cc or 10cc by looking at the bottom of your damper. If there's a big scraper seal (I think it's green) then you have the 10cc updated one. If there's no obvious scraper seal then you have the 5cc one.


New:
Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.airnshox.com/en/images/rock-shox-pike-seal-head-kit-charger-700x700_thumb.jpg


Old:
Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://d2ydh70d4b5xgv.cloudfront.net/images/d/4/new-rockshox-boxxer-seal-head-assembly-35mm-b1-for-charger-rebound-damper-42fba63cdaaaf03a7dbc91b5caa9fb14.jpg

Posted: Dec 12, 2016 at 8:40 Quote
Just on a whim here though dont suppose you can reduce the eye to eye of a coil shock.....Its a Fox Vanilla RC Factory Series Kashima Coil. The eye to eye is 241mm though my frame is 200...In other likely news who may want a Fox Vanilla RC Factory Series Kashima Coil Shock.


 


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