Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag trailblitz
O+
Posted: Jul 27, 2014 at 21:27 Quote
I had an '08 Reign X and I always had to pump the shit out of the Fox DHX air to stop it from bottoming out all the time. I ended up running it at about 260-270 psi and I weighed 160 back then
flag Nobble
Posted: Jul 27, 2014 at 22:09 Quote
trailblitz wrote:
I had an '08 Reign X and I always had to pump the shit out of the Fox DHX air to stop it from bottoming out all the time. I ended up running it at about 260-270 psi and I weighed 160 back then
the DHX is a diving piece of shit, stop comparing it to the vivid... lol
flag fatboy163
Posted: Jul 27, 2014 at 22:11 Quote
OK Hers' one! Should I run my brakes "moto"style with front brake on the right? SHould I leave my levers slightly lose so the rotate on a crash? Why is one pedal easy to take off but the other refuses to budge? Where can I find some calming sanity...ooops sorry went a little to far! LOL
griff369 wrote:
im in.
worked at a shop all year so not an expert but know some stuff
flag enduro86
Posted: Jul 27, 2014 at 22:15 Quote
fatboy163 wrote:
OK Hers' one! Should I run my brakes "moto"style with front brake on the right?
griff369 wrote:
im in.
worked at a shop all year so not an expert but know some stuff

If you live in the States (I guessing you do as your profile says that) you would want to run the front brake on the left as if you ever use someone elses bike or a rental that's how you would find it. If you live in NZ, Aus or UK (I think UK does this) you'd want the front brake on the right. As for the leaving the lever loose in case of a crash I guess it's a personal thing lots of people do, and lots don't. I prefer not too.
flag rclugnut
O+
Posted: Jul 27, 2014 at 22:27 Quote
fatboy163 wrote:
OK Hers' one! Should I run my brakes "moto"style with front brake on the right? SHould I leave my levers slightly lose so the rotate on a crash? Why is one pedal easy to take off but the other refuses to budge? Where can I find some calming sanity...ooops sorry went a little to far! LOL
griff369 wrote:
im in.
worked at a shop all year so not an expert but know some stuff

as for your pedal one side is rh threaded the other is lh threaded so it doesn't work it's self off
flag shredjekyll
Posted: Jul 27, 2014 at 22:58 Quote
Anyone in here have any input on bath oil migration in fox forks? I have done a fair amount of reading and think I have found the solution but not sure.

I have a 2012 float FIT rlc 160 on my slayer that was initially fantastic when I bought it new but has been on a steady decline. Every time I service it is great for a little while then starts to suck and i open it up to find mass migration of the oil to on top of the piston. I have found quite a few people online and apparently the solution is to take out the foam ring on the piston head and replace it with this plastic fox spacer type thing.

It's total BS that this is a blatant design flaw and I wasn't notified of anything and had to simply figure it out after suffering and wasting money for over a year... should I just rip the damn ring out, buy the part, and hope for the best or what? I'm assuming there is zero chance of any help from fox at this point since its been so long and ive never had the fork serviced by a shop or anything.
flag naptime
Posted: Jul 27, 2014 at 23:54 Quote
Any tips for removing a jammed cassette from an alloy freehub body? The teeth on the cassette have dug into the slots on the free hub Frown
The cassette is shimano ultegra an riveted together so I can't pry the cogs off one at a time. I need the cassette so it can't be damaged but the freehub body is allready f#ck#d
Cheers
P.S I'm on my phone at the moment and can't search the mechanics threads to see if this problem had allready been discussed
flag RyanWensley
Posted: Jul 28, 2014 at 0:08 Quote
Hit the cassette with a rubber mallet around it, this should free it from the biting points and hopefully allow you to get the cassette off. Happened all the time with my Alloy Hope one.
flag slidways
Posted: Jul 28, 2014 at 0:48 Quote
fatboy163 wrote:
OK Hers' one! Should I run my brakes "moto"style with front brake on the right? SHould I leave my levers slightly lose so the rotate on a crash? Why is one pedal easy to take off but the other refuses to budge? Where can I find some calming sanity...ooops sorry went a little to far! LOL
griff369 wrote:
im in.
worked at a shop all year so not an expert but know some stuff

Run your brakes how ever the hell you want your the one riding it, maybe just tell people when they jump on the bike.

Tighten them to the recommendation, I would not leave them loose personally. But you don't need to go crazy and over-tighten them. pedals are ussually reverse thread so make sure you are turning it the right way, sometimes things are just a pain in the ass to get over so leverage the balls out of them with a attachment or a pole.

I'm guessing your post was written a little in fun in rely to the guy you quoted but figured id put a answer up incase.
flag nordland071285
Posted: Jul 28, 2014 at 1:17 Quote
Nobble wrote:
trailblitz wrote:
I had an '08 Reign X and I always had to pump the shit out of the Fox DHX air to stop it from bottoming out all the time. I ended up running it at about 260-270 psi and I weighed 160 back then
the DHX is a diving piece of shit, stop comparing it to the vivid... lol
what do you mean by 'diving'?
flag tomcrowther
Posted: Jul 28, 2014 at 1:18 Quote
blows through its travel like there's no tomorrow.
flag Spicy-Mike
Posted: Jul 28, 2014 at 1:18 Quote
@ TNFKing,

Are you sure you're setting it up right..you do realize you have to equalize the +/- chambers every so often as you reach your target PSI (every 20 or so PSI). Look up the V.Air video instructions if you aren't sure. I'm 195lbs+ a little bit and don't run that much pressure.
flag momoy
Posted: Jul 28, 2014 at 2:15 Quote
griff369 wrote:
im in.
worked at a shop all year so not an expert but know some stuff

headset question (cane creek series 110) there is quite a little play, still debating on replacing the bearings or replace the whole headset.
flag iffy
Posted: Jul 28, 2014 at 3:54 Quote
nojzilla wrote:
Any tips for removing a jammed cassette from an alloy freehub body? The teeth on the cassette have dug into the slots on the free hub Frown
The cassette is shimano ultegra an riveted together so I can't pry the cogs off one at a time. I need the cassette so it can't be damaged but the freehub body is allready f#ck#d
Cheers
P.S I'm on my phone at the moment and can't search the mechanics threads to see if this problem had allready been discussed

good luck!
flag oldmanDan
Posted: Jul 28, 2014 at 3:57 Quote
momoy wrote:
griff369 wrote:
im in.
worked at a shop all year so not an expert but know some stuff

headset question (cane creek series 110) there is quite a little play, still debating on replacing the bearings or replace the whole headset.

Why the whole thing? Unless you have damaged the head tube somehow, the cups shouldn't have any play at all.
I'd just do the bearings first.
Also make sure it isn't the brake pads moving or fork bushes giving you the play.

 


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