Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag its-sam
Posted: Sep 14, 2014 at 12:50 Quote
Defiantly over 9000!
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Sep 14, 2014 at 15:42 Quote
HardtailHucker03 wrote:
how does a floating rotor help?
The main advantage is that they allow for thermal expansion, as Spicy Mike touched upon.

A solid one piece rotor has no mechanism to allow for this expansion, so will warp when hot, reducing total braking power. A floating rotor allows the braking surface to expand slightly without being restrained by the spider, meaning it remains straight. This is why you often hear floating rotors "pinging" after a long,brake heavy run, as they cool and shrink back to their original size. Although the movement is miniscule, it has a large affect, making them well worth the extra money in my opinion.

As well as the benefits when jumping mentioned previously, they also make it easier to retrieve your bike should you drop it in a lake.
flag jamieridesbikes
Posted: Sep 14, 2014 at 15:46 Quote
Took me too long to get that hahaha
flag its-sam
Posted: Sep 14, 2014 at 15:48 Quote
Are you people actually stupid? It literally just gives you more air when gasing to flat
flag Leedle-Leedle-Lee
Posted: Sep 14, 2014 at 16:11 Quote
its-sam wrote:
Are you people actually stupid? It literally just gives you more air when gasing to flat


Ahahaha
flag HardtailHucker03
Posted: Sep 14, 2014 at 19:48 Quote
Spicy-Mike wrote:
HardtailHucker03 wrote:
how does a floating rotor help?

In Mtb there arent any "true" floating rotors but rather semi-floating rotors, when attached by rivets. But the overall goal/points of a floating rotor are:

Initially made to fight against the nature of thermal expansion/contraction of solid 1-piece rotors which can lead to braking irregularities.
Braking surfaces vs. contacts points are never perfectly symmetrical upon braking, meaning there is always going to be a tiny degree of power loss as a 1-piece solid steel rotor needs to unevenly bend (side to side) under heavy braking to try to conform to the forces applied by the pistons. The semi-floating rotor is "suspended" by washers/rivets which are solidly attached to a solid spider that allows the rotor to move and conform laterally, but not vertically.
ok thanks a bunch so they're worth the extra cash?
flag HardtailHucker03
Posted: Sep 14, 2014 at 19:49 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
HardtailHucker03 wrote:
how does a floating rotor help?
The main advantage is that they allow for thermal expansion, as Spicy Mike touched upon.

A solid one piece rotor has no mechanism to allow for this expansion, so will warp when hot, reducing total braking power. A floating rotor allows the braking surface to expand slightly without being restrained by the spider, meaning it remains straight. This is why you often hear floating rotors "pinging" after a long,brake heavy run, as they cool and shrink back to their original size. Although the movement is miniscule, it has a large affect, making them well worth the extra money in my opinion.

As well as the benefits when jumping mentioned previously, they also make it easier to retrieve your bike should you drop it in a lake.
thanks
flag HardtailHucker03
Posted: Sep 14, 2014 at 19:50 Quote
its-sam wrote:
Are you people actually stupid? It literally just gives you more air when gasing to flat
perfect! I always Huck to flat!!! hints the name^
flag Alexdude27
Posted: Sep 15, 2014 at 7:09 Quote
Hey guys, im looking to get a new sprocket and chain for my 2012 Norco Havoc, but im not sure what with all the different sizes and bores and such, so i was wondering what the current bore and size and all the other sizes needed were on the havoc, all information is appreciated, also here is a link http://www.norco.com/archives/2012/?id=havoc
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Sep 15, 2014 at 8:43 Quote
Alexdude27 wrote:
Hey guys, im looking to get a new sprocket and chain for my 2012 Norco Havoc, but im not sure what with all the different sizes and bores and such, so i was wondering what the current bore and size and all the other sizes needed were on the havoc, all information is appreciated, also here is a link http://www.norco.com/archives/2012/?id=havoc

Front sprocket (chainring): 19mm bore hole in the center (more likely 23.8mm with an adapter that usually comes with the ring) + any number of teeth you want.

Chain: 1/8" x 1/2" pitch

Rear sprocket: 14t screw on freewheel.

Also I notice it runs a looseball MID bb. Which means its probably already broken. Id upgrade to a sealed MID but this will require a new 8-Spline axle. Should set you back about £20 for the axle and £15 for the BB.
flag robby29
Posted: Sep 15, 2014 at 11:54 Quote
So i have a month old bike and today the rear wheel/hub has decided to make an irregular clicking noise. I was wondering if anyone had a solution. The symptoms are:

- a click-click once per revolution
- doesn't happen while pedaling
- very noticeable while up in the stand
- when I pull the wheel off the bike and spin it while I hold it it does make the noise

also something to note is I pulled the cassette off today for some good cleaning I'm not sure if it was doing it before this, I took a pretty good spill and was just cleaning up my bike. I can definitely provide more information if needed. Thanks for the help.
flag jamieridesbikes
Posted: Sep 15, 2014 at 12:07 Quote
robby29 wrote:
So i have a month old bike and today the rear wheel/hub has decided to make an irregular clicking noise. I was wondering if anyone had a solution. The symptoms are:

- a click-click once per revolution
- doesn't happen while pedaling
- very noticeable while up in the stand
- when I pull the wheel off the bike and spin it while I hold it it does make the noise

also something to note is I pulled the cassette off today for some good cleaning I'm not sure if it was doing it before this, I took a pretty good spill and was just cleaning up my bike. I can definitely provide more information if needed. Thanks for the help.
what make of hub is it, and could it be the rim?
flag robby29
Posted: Sep 15, 2014 at 12:13 Quote
It's on a 2015 enduro comp. I'm at work right now and I'm not sure what hub it is. Prob some specialized one. It could be, but the rim isn't rubbing anything and doesn't seem to be damaged.
flag bdjbradley
Posted: Sep 15, 2014 at 12:23 Quote
jamieridesbikes wrote:
robby29 wrote:
So i have a month old bike and today the rear wheel/hub has decided to make an irregular clicking noise. I was wondering if anyone had a solution. The symptoms are:

- a click-click once per revolution
- doesn't happen while pedaling
- very noticeable while up in the stand
- when I pull the wheel off the bike and spin it while I hold it it does make the noise

also something to note is I pulled the cassette off today for some good cleaning I'm not sure if it was doing it before this, I took a pretty good spill and was just cleaning up my bike. I can definitely provide more information if needed. Thanks for the help.
what make of hub is it, and could it be the rim?
Specialized Hi Lo disc, 4 sealed cartridge bearings, 12mm thru-axle, 28h
flag jamieridesbikes
Posted: Sep 15, 2014 at 12:41 Quote
the rim has a pin/bit of metal in it to hold it together while it's being wielded, sometimes it can come loose (as the wield holds the rim together, not the pin) and make the click-click noise you're talking about. if the clicking goes away when you spin the wheel fast this is probably your problem. happened to me so i took the rim strip off, squirted in some glue and put everything back together.

if it's the hub someone else will have to contribute...

 


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