Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag slidways
Posted: Dec 2, 2014 at 17:36 Quote
mini-freerider wrote:
sterlingmagnum wrote:
eadenmtbr wrote:


Hmmm ok is it a steel coil aswell?

yeah you may be thinking of a ti coil which is a type of steel but costs a few hundred bucks. they are kind of greyish looking and are pretty sweet but they'll cost ya cause they're light too.

Ti coils are actually made of Titanium. They're lighter than steel coils and don't oxidise as readily.

Just to tag on there are different blends and grades of titanium.

If you want to look at a cost effect coils look at stendec.

I have heard they save about 100gram and I have also heard they are lighter than ti, so either way you get a pretty close saving to that of ti and they come in 25lbs increments. Site says £95.00



http://stendecworks.com/springs/
flag Nobble
Posted: Dec 2, 2014 at 20:06 Quote
slidways wrote:
mini-freerider wrote:
sterlingmagnum wrote:


yeah you may be thinking of a ti coil which is a type of steel but costs a few hundred bucks. they are kind of greyish looking and are pretty sweet but they'll cost ya cause they're light too.

Ti coils are actually made of Titanium. They're lighter than steel coils and don't oxidise as readily.

Just to tag on there are different blends and grades of titanium.

If you want to look at a cost effect coils look at stendec.

I have heard they save about 100gram and I have also heard they are lighter than ti, so either way you get a pretty close saving to that of ti and they come in 25lbs increments. Site says £95.00



http://stendecworks.com/springs/
it's been confirmed that they're heavier than ti. someone had both.
flag monkey-man
Posted: Dec 2, 2014 at 23:48 Quote
Hi guys,

I’m looking at going 1x10 or 11 if I can justify the extra cost.i'm am 1x10 now but with a chainguide. I have a short cage Saint mech (none clutch), If I go with out the chain guide do I need a clutch mech, and can I use a larger cassette (11-36 or bigger) with a short cage mech?

Many, many thanks
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Dec 3, 2014 at 1:37 Quote
monkey-man wrote:
Hi guys,

I’m looking at going 1x10 or 11 if I can justify the extra cost.i'm am 1x10 now but with a chainguide. I have a short cage Saint mech (none clutch), If I go with out the chain guide do I need a clutch mech, and can I use a larger cassette (11-36 or bigger) with a short cage mech?

Many, many thanks

Why do you want to lose the chainguide? If you do you will need a narrow wide ring. You will also occasionally need to stop and put your chain back on if you like to get a bit rough with the bike. A clutch mech will help a lot, although they only really help to control the chain between the bottom of the chainring and mech, so I would still recommend a top guide. Well, tbh I'd still recommend a full guide, cos, why not? Also then you wont have to fork out for a stupid narrow/wide ring that costs a bomb then wears out twice as fast.
flag Mattin
Posted: Dec 3, 2014 at 12:04 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
monkey-man wrote:
Hi guys,

I’m looking at going 1x10 or 11 if I can justify the extra cost.i'm am 1x10 now but with a chainguide. I have a short cage Saint mech (none clutch), If I go with out the chain guide do I need a clutch mech, and can I use a larger cassette (11-36 or bigger) with a short cage mech?

Many, many thanks

Why do you want to lose the chainguide? If you do you will need a narrow wide ring. You will also occasionally need to stop and put your chain back on if you like to get a bit rough with the bike. A clutch mech will help a lot, although they only really help to control the chain between the bottom of the chainring and mech, so I would still recommend a top guide. Well, tbh I'd still recommend a full guide, cos, why not? Also then you wont have to fork out for a stupid narrow/wide ring that costs a bomb then wears out twice as fast.

Narrow/wide works perfectly. I've been riding mine for a year now and never dropped a single time! I have used it for XC, DH and dirt jumps on it, and not a single time has it dropped in a year time. Works better than most chainguides.

And it is not expensive at all. Maybe €10 more than a normal single speed chainring, but it saves you another €80 for not having to buy a chain guide. That means that this is still much cheaper than running a chain guide.

And they don't wear out fast at all. Nothing different as normal chainrings. Actually every second tooth is extra wide, so in theory it should even last longer.



Looking at your post I'm guessing you have never owned a narrow-wide chain ring and you have no clue what you are talking about. Everyone switches to narrow-wide because:
- it works perfectly
- it safes you a lot of money over running a chain guide
- it is lighter than running a chain guide
- no noise like with chain guides
- no need to set it or adjust it. Just mount the chain ring and it is ready to shred
- less shit that can break down

Narrow-wide is a superior invention, that's why everyone is switching to these chain rings.
flag bigburd
Posted: Dec 3, 2014 at 12:44 Quote
Mattin wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
monkey-man wrote:
Hi guys,

I’m looking at going 1x10 or 11 if I can justify the extra cost.i'm am 1x10 now but with a chainguide. I have a short cage Saint mech (none clutch), If I go with out the chain guide do I need a clutch mech, and can I use a larger cassette (11-36 or bigger) with a short cage mech?

Many, many thanks

Why do you want to lose the chainguide? If you do you will need a narrow wide ring. You will also occasionally need to stop and put your chain back on if you like to get a bit rough with the bike. A clutch mech will help a lot, although they only really help to control the chain between the bottom of the chainring and mech, so I would still recommend a top guide. Well, tbh I'd still recommend a full guide, cos, why not? Also then you wont have to fork out for a stupid narrow/wide ring that costs a bomb then wears out twice as fast.

Narrow/wide works perfectly. I've been riding mine for a year now and never dropped a single time! I have used it for XC, DH and dirt jumps on it, and not a single time has it dropped in a year time. Works better than most chainguides.

And it is not expensive at all. Maybe €10 more than a normal single speed chainring, but it saves you another €80 for not having to buy a chain guide. That means that this is still much cheaper than running a chain guide.

And they don't wear out fast at all. Nothing different as normal chainrings. Actually every second tooth is extra wide, so in theory it should even last longer.



Looking at your post I'm guessing you have never owned a narrow-wide chain ring and you have no clue what you are talking about. Everyone switches to narrow-wide because:
- it works perfectly
- it safes you a lot of money over running a chain guide
- it is lighter than running a chain guide
- no noise like with chain guides
- no need to set it or adjust it. Just mount the chain ring and it is ready to shred
- less shit that can break down

Narrow-wide is a superior invention, that's why everyone is switching to these chain rings.

But people do drop chains with narrow wides , do you think DHer's run chain guides just to add weight to their bikes ?
flag Nobble
Posted: Dec 3, 2014 at 12:47 Quote
It definitely doesn't work perfectly, it keeps the chain on most of the time, and many people think that "most of the time" is worth the weight and cost savings.

They also wear out just as fast as a normal chainring.
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Dec 3, 2014 at 12:59 Quote
Mattin wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
monkey-man wrote:
Hi guys,

I’m looking at going 1x10 or 11 if I can justify the extra cost.i'm am 1x10 now but with a chainguide. I have a short cage Saint mech (none clutch), If I go with out the chain guide do I need a clutch mech, and can I use a larger cassette (11-36 or bigger) with a short cage mech?

Many, many thanks

Why do you want to lose the chainguide? If you do you will need a narrow wide ring. You will also occasionally need to stop and put your chain back on if you like to get a bit rough with the bike. A clutch mech will help a lot, although they only really help to control the chain between the bottom of the chainring and mech, so I would still recommend a top guide. Well, tbh I'd still recommend a full guide, cos, why not? Also then you wont have to fork out for a stupid narrow/wide ring that costs a bomb then wears out twice as fast.

Narrow/wide works perfectly. I've been riding mine for a year now and never dropped a single time! I have used it for XC, DH and dirt jumps on it, and not a single time has it dropped in a year time. Works better than most chainguides.

And it is not expensive at all. Maybe €10 more than a normal single speed chainring, but it saves you another €80 for not having to buy a chain guide. That means that this is still much cheaper than running a chain guide.

And they don't wear out fast at all. Nothing different as normal chainrings. Actually every second tooth is extra wide, so in theory it should even last longer.



Looking at your post I'm guessing you have never owned a narrow-wide chain ring and you have no clue what you are talking about. Everyone switches to narrow-wide because:
- it works perfectly
- it safes you a lot of money over running a chain guide
- it is lighter than running a chain guide
- no noise like with chain guides
- no need to set it or adjust it. Just mount the chain ring and it is ready to shred
- less shit that can break down

Narrow-wide is a superior invention, that's why everyone is switching to these chain rings.

Narrow/wides do wear faster in dirty conditions, as all the crap has less places to escape. Its a pretty well known complaint with them. Perhaps twice as fast was an exaggeration, I'll give you that.

They do improve chain retention its true, but not even close to the levels provided by a good chain device, which Monkey-Man stated he already owned. If you are racing, the weight saving on the least important place to save weight on the entire bike is more than outweighed by the confidence a full guide gives that you will not suffer chain issues. If you aren't racing the few extra grams doesn't really matter.

I don't give a damn about the noise my chain guide makes (or doesn't make in my case), but hey, I clearly have no clue what I'm talking about...:P
flag iffy
Posted: Dec 3, 2014 at 13:08 Quote
I use a guide so I dont get blood all over my chain after I fall off.
flag slidways
Posted: Dec 3, 2014 at 21:51 Quote
Nobble wrote:
slidways wrote:
mini-freerider wrote:


Ti coils are actually made of Titanium. They're lighter than steel coils and don't oxidise as readily.

Just to tag on there are different blends and grades of titanium.

If you want to look at a cost effect coils look at stendec.

I have heard they save about 100gram and I have also heard they are lighter than ti, so either way you get a pretty close saving to that of ti and they come in 25lbs increments. Site says £95.00



http://stendecworks.com/springs/
it's been confirmed that they're heavier than ti. someone had both.

what weight and size springs were tested, You know how that plays a big role. I would be interested in seeing each spring compared.
flag Nobble
Posted: Dec 3, 2014 at 22:39 Quote
slidways wrote:
Nobble wrote:
slidways wrote:


Just to tag on there are different blends and grades of titanium.

If you want to look at a cost effect coils look at stendec.

I have heard they save about 100gram and I have also heard they are lighter than ti, so either way you get a pretty close saving to that of ti and they come in 25lbs increments. Site says £95.00



http://stendecworks.com/springs/
it's been confirmed that they're heavier than ti. someone had both.

what weight and size springs were tested, You know how that plays a big role. I would be interested in seeing each spring compared.
same size and same springrate. 450x2.75 for a vivid. my ti coil and ajax-ripper's (IIRC) stendec. I was wrong when I said someone had both but we've both had them.
flag slidways
Posted: Dec 4, 2014 at 0:53 Quote
Nobble wrote:
slidways wrote:
Nobble wrote:
it's been confirmed that they're heavier than ti. someone had both.

what weight and size springs were tested, You know how that plays a big role. I would be interested in seeing each spring compared.
same size and same springrate. 450x2.75 for a vivid. my ti coil and ajax-ripper's (IIRC) stendec. I was wrong when I said someone had both but we've both had them.

Do you remember what the difference was? From what I have seen ti seem to save about 100-150gram depending on the spring. So far the stendec still seem best bang for buck unless your numbers prove otherwise?
flag Nobble
Posted: Dec 4, 2014 at 7:54 Quote
Iirc it was about 50g or so. It was a decent amount.
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Dec 4, 2014 at 8:06 Quote
Nobble wrote:
Iirc it was about 50g or so. It was a decent amount.

I've actually been thinking about getting one of those Stendec springs. Was Ajax happy enough with his? Not that theres really alot can go wrong with a spring.
flag enregistree
Posted: Dec 4, 2014 at 8:40 Quote
monkey-man wrote:
Hi guys,

I’m looking at going 1x10 or 11 if I can justify the extra cost.i'm am 1x10 now but with a chainguide. I have a short cage Saint mech (none clutch), If I go with out the chain guide do I need a clutch mech, and can I use a larger cassette (11-36 or bigger) with a short cage mech?

Many, many thanks

You need new saint (or zee) clutch mech, and these new models are specified for 11-36 cassette. That's what I use (saint mech with saint shifter), XT cassette and blackspire narrow/wide ring.

Also, the new saint shifter has longer levers to overcome added resistance of clutch mech.

 


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