Spank spike race28

PB Forum :: Bikes, Parts, and Gear
Spank spike race28
  • Previous Page
Author Message
O+
Posted: Oct 11, 2012 at 17:20 Quote
hey guys , I'm looking for some new dh wheels and i'd like to know if those spank spike race
are good ones ...so let me know your impressions
TANKS

Posted: Nov 21, 2012 at 16:10 Quote
Got mine from CRC a week or 2 ago (a steal for the price). Amazing Light! Lightest I've ever owned (noticeably more than the DT Swiss on my 2011 Flatline pro, and even the Single Track/Deore combo on my DB hard tail). They feel solid and pretty stiff. I am wrapping up an AM buildup of a 2010 Marin Attack Trail 6.8 full custom ground up for my light/trail/everyday bike, and last things left are waiting for delivery of the Spank Fratelli Tape and Spank Valves before I can go tubeless and start shredding.

In a couple weeks, I'll try report back on first impressions of how well they ride, once I’ve had a chance to get it out there and start ripping again.

Keep in mind this will be for lighter AM, BC Trail and Shore riding, but for Hardcore DH punishment I should have a rough idea how much. Build is Spank Spike Race28 wheelset, tubeless with Fratelli Tape and Valves (first try will be without sealant, if won’t hold air/burps/etc. I’ll try again with) and Conti Mountain King 2.4’s (not the UST ones though).

Side Note: Spanks Fratelli Tape & Valves proved to be incredibly hard to find (not stocked by CRC, Jenson, PricePoint, etc., did on Amazon.com, but when I tried to order, redirected to Amazon.ca which of course doesn’t carry the goods)…even my LBS couldn’t get anything. Started to use a Stan’s FR Tubeless Kit, but opted out when I figured out the Rim Strips with Valves included, are too tall and didn’t really leave room for the bead to seat well in the rim’s nib. So I started pushing hard again on trying to locate the Spank Tubeless items. Used the contact us form on Spank’s site to plead my case, and a few days later, Mike emailed me back, letting me know a distributor in Whistler has stock and within a day, they are currently en route. Mike from Spank and the guys at T2R Distributors have been awesome! I mean all I said was “first time going tubeless, will need Tape x2 as I anticipate probably making mistakes” and without needing further prodding, he FYI’ed on the order/Invoice email with a 1 pager on how best, from a 1st hand perspective, to install the equipment. Can’t wait to put it to the test.

Anyways, will let you know once I've had a chance to rip on 'em.

Posted: Nov 21, 2012 at 17:15 Quote
im thinking about getting a set of them as well.

and mike from spank is really helpful, he helped me get a 2011 spank stem the one with the really low stack height

Posted: Dec 11, 2012 at 12:32 Quote
Update: Been running the Race28's tubeless for a little while now and I'm super stoked for this build. Couldn't be happier with the wheels, Tubeless Setup (with the Fratelli Tape and Spank valves and a shot or 2 of sealant), Spank's customer service (Thanks Mike), the help (unsolicited pointers that were massively helpful!) from their distributor in Whistler...plus they look bitching!

Pros: Super light, stiff and solid feeling, great price point.
Cons: None yet.
Summary: I would recommend these for ANYONE looking for a sturdy, super light, AM/DH Race build (for DH Race I'm sure they would be light and strong enough to handle the abuse and aid in posting some good times). As for longterm, abusive everyday DH/FR of your typical weekend warrior, I would probably upsize to the 35's (which I am actually thinking about for my Flatline for next season shredding Whisler), based solely on the fact that I prefer a wider rim for increased stability/traction/etc.

Posted: Jan 15, 2013 at 16:05 Quote
BadMotorScooter wrote:
Update: Been running the Race28's tubeless for a little while now and I'm super stoked for this build. Couldn't be happier with the wheels, Tubeless Setup (with the Fratelli Tape and Spank valves and a shot or 2 of sealant), Spank's customer service (Thanks Mike), the help (unsolicited pointers that were massively helpful!) from their distributor in Whistler...plus they look bitching!

Pros: Super light, stiff and solid feeling, great price point.
Cons: None yet.
Summary: I would recommend these for ANYONE looking for a sturdy, super light, AM/DH Race build (for DH Race I'm sure they would be light and strong enough to handle the abuse and aid in posting some good times). As for longterm, abusive everyday DH/FR of your typical weekend warrior, I would probably upsize to the 35's (which I am actually thinking about for my Flatline for next season shredding Whisler), based solely on the fact that I prefer a wider rim for increased stability/traction/etc.

Hello,

I've got the Spank wheelset and I'm trying to run the fratelli tape to get them tubeless. How did you do it? Do you wrap the tape around once starting from the side opposite the valve, etc. I bought some, but I'm not entirely sure I'm doing it right?

Many thanks,

Tristan

Posted: Jan 15, 2013 at 23:43 Quote
Twice around, one biased on the left, once on the right. The way the distributor explained it to me is:
"When wrapping a rim in the tubeless tape, its important to go around 2 times. The first time you must put the tape all the way to the right side of the rim, running right up the vertical side wall. I try to lay the edge of the tape along the top of the bead hook, and as I pull it tight to stick it in place, it tends to fix down just under the bead hook. You must go all the way around the rim one time like this on the right side first. Then, as you finish one side, you turn the rim, and go all the way around on the left side the same way. This creates a seal from under the bead hook on one side, down the vertical wall, across the Oohbah tube well, and up the other vertical wall to the bead hook."

"When I put the valve in, first I make sure the hole I create in the tubeless conversion tape is quite small and has to adapt (stretch) to the valve, making a rough seal around it. I have had good luck cutting a tiny X in the tape for the valve, but Gavin recommends using a hot pointed tool to do it so the cuts won't propogate. That's a smart idea."

"Then, I torque down the lock ring on the valve as tight as possible. When I have the tires mounted and start to inflate, usually around 10-15psi, a little air leak starts at the valve hole. That is normal. At that point I tighten the valve lock ring down with a set of pliers as tight as I can get it. This causes the rubber seal/base on the inside of the valve to deform into the AV hole, and plug it adequately. That rubber base will actually bend down into the hole in a "V" shape."

"One other trick is getting the UST tires on with levers (we have a tight fit), without damaging the tubeless tape. Very often when you use levers to mount the tires, you touch the tubeless tape, and create tiny punctures that leak. This can mean either a very delicate hand is needed, or you can simply put the rim tape that came with your rims on over the tubeless tape to protect it from levers. I've been successful without the rim tape, but have had a few frustrating leaks caused by touching the tire lever down on the tubeless tape when I wasn't careful enough. The standard rim tape adds about 12g to the whole assembly, but can save you a lot of headaches."

"Most tubeless riders use a sealant. The valves have a removable core, which makes adding the sealant easy. It can be threaded out and then back in after the sealant has been injected. Sealant however is heavy, and some true weight weenies choose not to use it. So, in my tests, I always go worst case...without sealant! Still, it will really help to make your tests a lot easier, as the sealant makes up for small mistakes you might make."

"Tires - We have only tested here with UST tires...not running tubeless with normal tires. Yes....UST work with Oohbah rims, but it is a tight fit...which is a good thing for tubeless riders as they burp less and can be run at lower pressures. Some riders have reported that they get good results with non-UST, but at this point we still recommend UST varieties for tubeless conversion."

Again, many thanks to Dan, this helped a bunch! Following these instructions, I got mostly sealed front, and almost totally sealed rear. To be on the safe side I tossed in a couple shots of sealant, and I've been rolling problem free since. Lemme know if you need any further clarification. Good luck!

Posted: Jan 25, 2013 at 10:02 Quote
BadMotorScooter wrote:
Twice around, one biased on the left, once on the right. The way the distributor explained it to me is:
"When wrapping a rim in the tubeless tape, its important to go around 2 times. The first time you must put the tape all the way to the right side of the rim, running right up the vertical side wall. I try to lay the edge of the tape along the top of the bead hook, and as I pull it tight to stick it in place, it tends to fix down just under the bead hook. You must go all the way around the rim one time like this on the right side first. Then, as you finish one side, you turn the rim, and go all the way around on the left side the same way. This creates a seal from under the bead hook on one side, down the vertical wall, across the Oohbah tube well, and up the other vertical wall to the bead hook."

"When I put the valve in, first I make sure the hole I create in the tubeless conversion tape is quite small and has to adapt (stretch) to the valve, making a rough seal around it. I have had good luck cutting a tiny X in the tape for the valve, but Gavin recommends using a hot pointed tool to do it so the cuts won't propogate. That's a smart idea."

"Then, I torque down the lock ring on the valve as tight as possible. When I have the tires mounted and start to inflate, usually around 10-15psi, a little air leak starts at the valve hole. That is normal. At that point I tighten the valve lock ring down with a set of pliers as tight as I can get it. This causes the rubber seal/base on the inside of the valve to deform into the AV hole, and plug it adequately. That rubber base will actually bend down into the hole in a "V" shape."

"One other trick is getting the UST tires on with levers (we have a tight fit), without damaging the tubeless tape. Very often when you use levers to mount the tires, you touch the tubeless tape, and create tiny punctures that leak. This can mean either a very delicate hand is needed, or you can simply put the rim tape that came with your rims on over the tubeless tape to protect it from levers. I've been successful without the rim tape, but have had a few frustrating leaks caused by touching the tire lever down on the tubeless tape when I wasn't careful enough. The standard rim tape adds about 12g to the whole assembly, but can save you a lot of headaches."

"Most tubeless riders use a sealant. The valves have a removable core, which makes adding the sealant easy. It can be threaded out and then back in after the sealant has been injected. Sealant however is heavy, and some true weight weenies choose not to use it. So, in my tests, I always go worst case...without sealant! Still, it will really help to make your tests a lot easier, as the sealant makes up for small mistakes you might make."

"Tires - We have only tested here with UST tires...not running tubeless with normal tires. Yes....UST work with Oohbah rims, but it is a tight fit...which is a good thing for tubeless riders as they burp less and can be run at lower pressures. Some riders have reported that they get good results with non-UST, but at this point we still recommend UST varieties for tubeless conversion."

Again, many thanks to Dan, this helped a bunch! Following these instructions, I got mostly sealed front, and almost totally sealed rear. To be on the safe side I tossed in a couple shots of sealant, and I've been rolling problem free since. Lemme know if you need any further clarification. Good luck!

Thanks for this, I think I get it, not that I can quite do it perfectly, no patience. I'm still struggling, but I am using standard tyres rather then UST's, I've annoyingly managed to get the rear working on my DH bike and the Front on my trail bike does using Joe's rims strips. But the other 2 aren't playing ball. I'll have to try again with the strips I think.

If at first you don't succeed try try again, or something.

Posted: Jan 26, 2013 at 3:12 Quote
I used regular tires also, non-UST. Then I threw the stock rim strip that came with the apanks over top top help protect the tape and apply pressur to better help the seal. Then the valve.

You won't get a perfect seal, but if your patient and do it well, it should hold well. For the rest, just use a couple shots if sealant. If ur in the uk, I believe it's pretty cold and snowy there, it was in Canada when I did it, and I found a heat gun (or even a hair dryer) helped make the tape a little more pliable, and help stick a bit better.

Good luck!

Posted: May 5, 2013 at 21:32 Quote
Hey im facing this same desicion of the spike 28s! but I cant decide weather or not the spike 35s would be better. Ill be doing a custom build so I only need the rim. The kind of riding I do is fairly intence due to living in B.C were Im riding steep techy root trails, racing Dh and hitting the bike park all season long. I appreciate lightness of the 28 but will this compromise the strength compared to the heavyer 35s?. And The wheels will be periodically trued and tightend regularly.

Which one would be the best answer, the spike 28s or 35s?
Thanks -Mitch

Posted: May 6, 2013 at 16:15 Quote
thats a tough one for us to decide the race 28's are a different alloy or someshit and I think they would be slightly weaker then the 35's but if your pretty light and dont do 360's or land sideways on whips get the lighter ones

strength or lightness its up to you

Posted: May 6, 2013 at 17:42 Quote
The Race28's are strong, but if you like to land sideways they can need the occasional true. Also the narrower rim can let the tyre roll slightly more if you like low PSI's. I won't worry about the 20-40g for the 35's if you're not racing, but if you're light the 28 is more than enough

Posted: May 6, 2013 at 19:44 Quote
Im facing to this difficult choice for my Gambler.

Im 170lbs, riding local track and bike parks.

race28 or 721 / Hope

race28 looks great and light!

Posted: May 6, 2013 at 19:46 Quote
I decided on the 35s and orderd them, ill let ya guys know how they work out!

Posted: Sep 15, 2013 at 0:23 Quote
Got updates guys?
Iv always figured my next set will be 823 on hope but is like to go sub 2000g but strong.
Iv been thinking
Rear hub: DT 240 (275g)
Front hub: DT 240 (165g)
Spokes: Not sure i have read Sapim CX-Ray w/alloy nipples (300g) on another thread.

From what I gather these are fairly burly parts still and should have pretty good longevity without much mantaiance.

Rims the spank evo 35 will get me under 2000g but I'm a bit concern about how wide they are, 35 is pretty beasty. The race 28 are great weight wise (100g lighter each wheel) but it goes the other way its fairly thin, have you guys noticed the narrow diameter of them?
I'm leaning to tubeless so the narrow rim is a worry.

Finally how have they gone with the abuse and how well did you look after them?

I'm not a smoother rider I'm reasonably quick (elite) and just to balls out in rock gardens hitting and taking whatever line is fastest not smoothest.

Posted: Sep 19, 2013 at 9:41 Quote
I'm currently running a Spank Race28 wheelset on both my trail and Dh bike. I'm running tubeless with tape and stans with no setup issues.

The only thing I do find is on the DH bike the back end doesn't feel like the tyre is planted enough. Is anyone else getting a slight roll over, with the occasional burp. I do run the Specialized SX tyres which aren't as rigid as the DH casing, but I find they have more grip under my weight as the sidewall is too rigid on the DH casing.

I run the same casing on my stock wheelset with Mavic ex729 rims which are 34mm width with less issues.

Has anyone run both the 28 and 35 widths and noticed any difference in how planted the tyre feels?

Also does anyone know if switching out the rims would require new spokes, or would the lengths be the same?

  • Previous Page

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv56 0.009226
Mobile Version of Website