Avid Juicy Seven Brake Bleeding

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Avid Juicy Seven Brake Bleeding
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flag enochchan
Posted: Feb 28, 2013 at 22:00 Quote
Hi, I have a set of Juicy Sevens (mid-2000s i think) and I got the Avid bleed kit for it a few years ago and it contained DOT 5.1. A year after the initial bleed, I needed more fluid and went to the LBS and they said they don't have any fluid but recommended the local auto parts store. I went to an O'Reilly's and asked if they had DOT 5.1. They only had DOT 5, and they told me that if I were to put it into my bike's hydraulic brakes it would not make any difference. So I did that, and at first they were okay. A year later I decided to bleed the brakes again, and this time I noticed the reservoir bladder in the lever leaking fluid when I pulled the lever somewhat hard. I have already tightened the reservoir screws. Would the DOT 5 be breaking the rubber bladder down? Also, another problem was that when trying to bleed it, when I was trying to squeeze the caliper syringe to make the fluid and bubbles go into the lever syringe, I could not compress the caliper syringe at all. It was as if it was completely plugged up. I did not have this problem before. I changed the hose barb and compression fitting but still run into the same problem. Even opening the reservoir cover and pushing the caliper syringe I could not see anything happen in the reservoir at all. However,when I pulled the lever and it stayed stuck in place, and I pushed on the caliper syringe, the lever would return to its natural position again. Anyone know what is going on? Basically I think the problem is using the wrong fluid and I have bad bladders but I would like a second opinion. Thanks!
flag drop-bear
Posted: Feb 28, 2013 at 23:47 Quote
yep Dot 5 is your problem i recon!
You should only use Dot 5.1 or Dot 4.
If i was you i would replace your cap and bladder and check all you O rings and seals cause the Dot 5 has most proberbly caused some damage to the rubber!
This can get exspensive though.
Go to the sram web site and download the Avid Juicy tech manual and give your brakes an overhaul!
O ring seal kit.... piston kit and new bladders and caps
Dot 5.1 and Dot 4 is also Hydoscopic (meaning it absorbs water) so dont use it if it is old
you might be better off buy new or second hand brakes because you are almost certainly going to have for out some cash to get them fixed!

Pm me if you have any questions because i just serviced my Juicys last week!
Good Luck!
flag enochchan
Posted: Mar 1, 2013 at 9:34 Quote
Darn, that's a lot of work. Do you know where is the best place to get replacement parts? I will try a DIY approach first before seeing someone to get it fixed for me. (I'm still only 18 without a job). That said, if I do encounter any problems I will definitely message you.

I just did a brief research on parts online and saw a caliper service kit for ~17 and a lever service kit for ~10.

Thanks for the help!!!
flag drop-bear
Posted: Mar 1, 2013 at 11:05 Quote
no worries man, just look at the tech manual on the sram web site (downloadable pdf) www.sram.com/_media/.../avid/.../TM_MY08_E
or
www.montagnadilombardia.com/06JuicyTechManual.pdf
and follow the instructions.
Make sure you have all the correct tools! it will make your job 100 times easier.
If i was you i would start with a lever overhaul and bladder change then maybe lever piston kit, then caliper seals and piston and last hoses.

Oh and be super careful not to contaminate your discs or pads!!!!!
That will just cost you more money.

Try your LBS or other wise try online for spares......
it should only take you about an hour each side... give every thing a super good clean before you put it back together
flag enochchan
Posted: Mar 2, 2013 at 13:32 Quote
Thanks! This really makes me feel a lot more confident doing this myself. Will let you know when I finish!
flag enochchan
Posted: Mar 4, 2013 at 10:41 Quote
Hey drop, quick questions:
1. I took everything apart and scrubbed it all and washed everything in a soapy-water bath and threw away the old o-rings and seals and old pistons. Is that clean enough to get rid of the contaminated fluid?
2. Also, I noticed that I have two different types of brake levers, both Juicy Sevens. Their internals are slightly different, but the biggest difference is the reservoir shape. One uses two Phillips screws and has a metal cover with a bladder that has one screw hole through it, while the other has a plastic black cover with two torx screws and a bladder without any holes. Are these the only two types of levers made? Or do I need to be more careful in purchasing a new kit online to make sure I get all of the parts I need?
3. My calipers also have different pistons in them. One caliper uses a set of pistons that are made completely of this black brittle material, while my other one is also made of the same material but has a tougher metal tip where it goes into the pad's groove to lock in place. Do I need to purchase two different kits for these as well?
4. When reassembling, how much grease and where should I put it? I do have a small grease gun and standard bike grease (the creamy color, not the blue or amber one).
5. Lastly, I don't own an air compressor so I really can't see an easy way to remove a stuck piston. I did however manage to get one piston out with a pair of pliers (the piston that has a metal tip) but with the other more brittle piston tips i just snapped the tip off. Any other way to do this? I heard once about using a grease gun to fill the bleed port to force the piston out but my grease gun is not the lever type and may not be powerful enough.

Thanks again for all of the help
flag drop-bear
Posted: Mar 5, 2013 at 0:56 Quote
Hey man,
yes that should clean enough but just make sure all the water has dried up before you put it back together.
it sounds like you have got either two different year model levers or some one has already changed out/ serviced one side already.
Do you have a shock pump (high pressure, low volume)
you can use this to get the pistons out (see service manual) you might need a Marzocchi shock fitting to fit in the hole to get a tight seal.. there is a video on youtube that shows what to do...

I did not use any grease except on the bolts that mount your brakes to your bars but i did spray all the rubber seals and O-rings with silacone spray before i put the new ones back in.
maybe have a look for any kind of serial number to find out what year model your brakes are before you buy what you need
Cheers
flag enochchan
Posted: Mar 5, 2013 at 18:37 Quote
Got it, and I actually used a weak grease gun to get the pistons out. It worked like a charm and the pistons just eased out instead of being dangerously launched. However, now I'm stuck wiping the grease out of every nook and cranny of the brakes. I think I got it from here. Thanks for all the help!
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