Beginner Wheel Trueing Question...

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Beginner Wheel Trueing Question...
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flag Huw32
Posted: Nov 6, 2014 at 15:00 Quote
Hi all,

Back in May, I got my hands on my first reasonable mountain bike, an Orange Crush running Mavic 717 rims with Hope Pro II hubs from eBay.

When I got her home, I saw the front wheel wasn't quite true so I booked it in with my local bike shop to get this done. On collection, the report from the bike said that it looked like the front and rear were out of true therefore they'd attempted to fix both, the rear came out ok but the front had a twist across the join in the rim and that the spokes had been tightened/loosened as much as possible where they could but that it wasn't going to get any better.

So, now that I have a bit of time on my hands with the weather coming in, I'm keen to have a look at this but not really sure where to begin. As far as I can tell it's either my spokes that need replacing because they've been stretched to their limits or the rims that need replacing because they're bent all out of shape. My question is what should I do next? replace any loose feeling spokes and see where that gets me, replace the rims with some straight ones or throw in the towel and get some new rims and spokes?

-Huw32
flag Mountainfrog
O+
Posted: Dec 20, 2014 at 10:39 Quote
It won't get better without replacing the rims and spokes. The weld area is (or can be) a weak area on the rim. Sounds like the rim is compromised, but if it isn't horribly skewed and you're not a world cup contender then maybe you can live with it. Unless the spokes threads are stripped they are good, but I suggest new spokes and nipples if you replace the rims. I've had the same contortion on a few front rims as well, newer and older models. Lived with it and not a problem.
flag a-d-e
O+
Posted: Dec 20, 2014 at 11:00 Quote
just find a rim with the same ERD ( which is basically the nipple seat diameter size) so you can swap the rims with the old spokes still in the hub. wrap tape on the spokes when you remove the old rim so you dont lose your way (low tack masking or will take ages to remove). wind the spokes into new nipples in the new rim just a couple threads then when complete tighten spokes so 1 thread is still visible on every spoke and then work your way around gradually increasing tension half then quarter turns on every spoke.
I'm no expert but these methods were obtained from fair bit of research. mine still run true after 8 months.
flag a-d-e
O+
Posted: Dec 20, 2014 at 11:05 Quote
obviously when you tension the spokes you will be checking for true rim. did mine in the frame holding an allen key to the rim against the stays & fork lower, got it to well within 1/2 mm without spending too much time.
flag RunsWithScissors
Posted: Feb 25, 2015 at 7:47 Quote
If you look on my blog, there's a two part posting on tensiometers and spoke tension. Might be helpful. Sounds like you may need a new rim though if it has a big defect at the seam.

Good luck!
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