hayes Nine brakes being a pain

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hayes Nine brakes being a pain
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flag DarkAngelJoe
Posted: Dec 19, 2014 at 8:04 Quote
I've just bought a new downhill bike. Has a pair of Hayes nines on it, I've bled, emptied and refilled. Messed with the pistons, you name it, I've done it. I can bleed the brakes and they will feel fine, firm and working great Up until the point where I ride the bike, the brakes will go straight back to going All the way to the handlebars after about 5 pulls of the lever. Really losing my sh*t over these now soon as I can't use my new bike so any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Joe
flag brianl
Posted: Dec 19, 2014 at 11:44 Quote
When I was using Hayes brakes they seemed to bleed just fine. Are you sure you're doing it right? (rotating the lever vertically, sucking out all the bubbles, etc)

If you can't get them working, buy a new set of SLX or XT brakes for $100-200.
flag droppindown
FL
Posted: Dec 20, 2014 at 17:37 Quote
I bleed Hayes from the bottom and push oil up so that air bubbles come out the top
flag DarkAngelJoe
Posted: Dec 20, 2014 at 17:54 Quote
i've done al the things both you guys have said. i had a feeling someone might say i need new ones... if anyone else has any other ideas i'd appreciate it
flag jonus216
Posted: Dec 21, 2014 at 9:09 Quote
I have Hayes nine also. Pay attention to the lever reach adjustment screw as it seems to work out by itself that after a day of riding, my lever is closer to the bar than when I started. Use DOT 4 fluid and keep bleeding your brakes as I suspect that air in the system is causing the problem. Do you also tap your caliper and master cylinder as you bleed the system to help move air bubbles? Do that also. Good luck
flag DarkAngelJoe
Posted: Dec 21, 2014 at 15:55 Quote
Jonus216 could you explain a bit more about the caliper and master cylinder please? also would i loosen or tighten the reach screw to move the bite further away from the handlebar? this sounds like it could get me somewhere
flag jonus216
Posted: Dec 22, 2014 at 3:54 Quote
^^^^as you push fluid to the caliper, give light taps to the caliper and master cylinder(the one with the brake lever) with a screwdriver handle. The idea is to shake the air bubbles loose from inside both caliper and master cylinder. Turning the reach adjustment screw clockwise will move the lever away from the bar. But before you bleed, remove your pads and measure the braking surface. If it is less than 1mm, replace it.
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