POD Suggestions *PLEASE READ FIRST PAGE FOR RULES*

PB Forum :: Biking Photos
POD Suggestions *PLEASE READ FIRST PAGE FOR RULES*
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Posted: Mar 30, 2015 at 20:17 Quote
OK, well let's just say that just trying to pick two photos to put forward as POD is just nerve wracking. Especially when oneis aware that they're putting their work into the same category as Sven Martin or Sterling Lorance. Anyway, here are my suggestions, and given that they might not make the cut I would really love some feedback for next time.
photo
photo

Posted: Apr 1, 2015 at 6:35 Quote
Both mine and would love feedback Smile
cheers

photo

photo

Posted: Apr 1, 2015 at 11:51 Quote
POD Suggestion: (last one)
Rider: Myself, Shaun Woerner
Photographer: Iphone, (positioned and timed carefully by myself)
Trail/location: Rocky Knob Pump Track, Boone, N.C. USA

photo

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Posted: Apr 2, 2015 at 21:31 Quote
how sick! i didn't know until now this was a thread. i'd appreciate any feedback as well.
Training day at Thrillium and coincidentally Daven s birthday. Sick way to spend your birthday.

Booking it down the fast straight away with the crew in hot pursuit.

Posted: Apr 3, 2015 at 2:44 Quote
Hi everybody, I create a serie of photography named Bike Documentary.
Check it where (https://www.pinkbike.com/u/edgarphotographie/album/Bike-Documentary/)

A great new line in saint di http edgarphotographie.fr

Lush greenery in Les Vosges

Posted: Apr 6, 2015 at 9:48 Quote
ralbisurez wrote:
GoPro shots from a Cold Creek ride.
That is soooooo cool. Without the mud on the lens it would be perfect tup

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Posted: Apr 7, 2015 at 0:07 Quote
@bumjump and @edgarphotographie Thanks for posting.

@shaun-ridefast-michael Thanks for posting, but please read the opening post about out of focus iphone photos.

@Marlfox87 First and foremost, one of my pet hates is photographers changing the apsect ratio of photos, I'm afraid, so that does count against you. With the first shot, you timing is good, that's really nice action, but it's just not sharp. At this resolution it's hard to tell whether that is down to the shutter speed (for side-on action you need to go fast, I'd recommend 1/1600 upwards) or the focus. The composition might work better in the original aspect, but it's just missing that extra something right now. The second shot I like more - the composition is textbook stuff and the way the trail leads your eye into the photo is good - although that kind of head-on shots usually ends up in the solid rather than spectacular column - it's a well-used option, so needs something really special to make it stand out. Again, the shutter is slightly too slow - I'd recommend at least 1/1000 for head-on, although personally I have started to push that towards 1/2500 when the light allows these days.

@joshmoore16 I recognise those spots! The first shot is nice - it's nice to see you using a mid-range focal length like that, although I would suggest maybe back the aperture back to 5.6 and possibly pushing the ISO to 1600 so you can get the shutter closer to 1/1000, but that's nit picking. With the second shot I like the composition and for me the only thing that stops this being a POD is that I'd like to see the rider pop a little more - it'd be great to see the rider above the trees so he really stands out (although I know with Mini-Dream that probably not physically possible). In short, great work and although not this time, you are very close to a POD.

@ralbisurez Good work on the focus on the first shot, I'd suggest going a little faster on the shutter just to get it that bit sharper. The composition is ok, but I find it is just missing that sense of drama, the action is a bit flat and the rider is too central for my liking. On the second shot the composition is better, but I would like to see this tighter in on the rider as I want to feel closer in to that action and see more of the dogs. I like the idea of getting the guy jumping with the dogs following, but you're just too far out to really get that across here. Also, your shutter speed is much too slow - as a rule you want to aim to get to at least 1/1000 for this type of shot, although starting to work down towards 1/500 is ok if you're struggling for light, but 1/320 is just too slow for this. As for the chainstay shot, it's great to see you experimenting like this - you should have a look at how Ian Hylands and Stef Cande have done a very similar shot to this.

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Posted: Apr 7, 2015 at 1:21 Quote
thanks for the crit @mattwragg I appreciate it! I know I tend to shoot at a tad slow shutter speed. I like to have a bit of the motion come through. I've actually been making myself consciously shoot at faster speeds and I'm finally starting to get used to it.

Posted: Apr 7, 2015 at 7:45 Quote
@mattwragg - Thank you so very much for the feedback. It's appreciated and it helps photographers like me who are trying to improve but just don't really know what they're looking for. The more I shoot, the more I realize that the difference between good and better is usually a matter of a few degrees, and the difference between better and the best is smaller still.

If you don't mind I would like to post another question or two concerning your comments. Obviously you're busy and may not have the time to respond, but if you do I'd like to know more about improving the sharpness of my images. The issues you pointed out are something that I've been trying to resolve for quite some time, and it seems that even on the sunniest of days there is never enough light to shoot above 1/1000s without maintaining an ISO low enough provide satisfyingly clear photos when all is said and done. I've tried finding some solutions on my own, but I'm not quite sure how effective they are, or how I should implement them into my workflow. Some of these solutions are:

Shoot 1 full stop above the desired exposure: As grain tends to appear in under exposed images.

Buy a Camera with a better sensor: Recently upgraded from an 1100D to a 7D and saw some improvement but not a ton(I suspect an upgrade to a full frame or even a Medium format body would be more helpful)

Buy a non-kit lens that doesn't drop off the end of an MTF Chart: Recommendations are always appreciated

Do less post-processing of the photo: Still trying to find that line between enhancing the image and completely ruining it.

I've a sneaky suspicion that my problem lies in the last issue as even my landscape photos tend to suffer from my ability for making great thumbnails that make you wince when you enlarge them, but getting good solid feedback that consists of more than two words is hard to come by. If you actually know of any place where one could get consistent, solid, constructive feedback that would be awesome to know.

Anyway, this response got alot longer than I intended, but in the end I just wanted to say thanks for the feedback you've already given and for all the work you do for us aspiring photographers here on Pinkbike. You sometimes seem to take alot of undeserved flack for it, and I just wanted to say thanks.

Posted: Apr 7, 2015 at 13:59 Quote
@mattwragg please let me know what do you think about:
Spring one of the most beautiful periods of the year.

Posted: Apr 7, 2015 at 14:15 Quote
Couple of shots from the weekend, constructive criticism welcomed...

The light on Sunday morning was ridiculous.

Ratty off the final drop

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Posted: Apr 7, 2015 at 21:14 Quote
@Marlfox87 A 7D should be more than enough camera - Laurence CE relied on his for a few years to shoot at a really high level, I think Steve Lloyd also uses one, so there is no reason why you shouldn't be able to get great results with that camera.

As for the metering, you should take the in-camera metering with a pinch of salt at all times anyway, I find Canons tend to produce slightly too dark results, but shooting religiously one stop over isn't going to solve the problem, especially if you are struggling to get light into the camera as it is. The good thing with digital is that you can take test shots and see where your exposure is beforehand. On that body you have you should be able to shoot up to about ISO 1600 pretty cleanly, if that isn't enough you need to find creative solutions to work around your limitations. Through the winter I shoot a lot with an Olympus OMD E-M5, which I don't like pushing abouve ISO 500.

I don't actually know what an MFT chart is. But yes, ditching the kit lenses is always a good move as they are generally fairly poor. My recommendation would be to look for a cheap prime to start with. I always liked the Canon 50 f/1.8 as it is very affordable and very sharp. Although with the crop sensor on the 7D I would consider looking towards the new 24mm f/2.8 pancake lens Canon just released, it's a bit more expensive but it's going to be closer to a real 50mm focal length with that sensor which I think will give nicer results. Also, with a prime a lens you need to work much harder on your position, which will help make you a better photographer.

As for feedback? You need to be your own harshest critic if you want to improve, in my opinion. There isn't always going to be someone around to tell you what is right and wrong, you need to obsess over the details, hold your work alongside the people you consider to be the best and be honest with yourself. Personally, I can barely look at my work more than a month or so old as I want to go back and re-do it better.

Hope this helps.

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Posted: Apr 7, 2015 at 21:27 Quote
@rossbellphoto Right, on the first shot I like what it looks like you're trying to do here, but the execution isn't right this time. First off, the messy trees and the tape in the front right are, well, messy and shouldn't be in the frame like this. The rider action isn't not great either - there is no sense of speed or movement here, it looks a bit like they are awkwardly parked on some roots. The trees aren't vertical either, which is a bit odd. The rad part of the shot is that incredible light in the top left and to make a shot like this work you simply need a lot more of it in the frame. if, for instance you moved the rider to the bottom right and had the rest of the frame full of those trees and that light, this would be sweet. Again with the pan shot, I like what you tried to do here, but it doesn't quite work - the rider isn't sharp enough - I'd suggest going up to 1/30 for a shot like this as it's easier to perfect. Wide-angle pans are quite weird shots to get right - you might be better starting with a longer lens until you have it nailed - they are also easier to keep stable as you can steady the barrel more easily with your freehand, which will give you better results.

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Posted: Apr 7, 2015 at 22:34 Quote
@gladiax87 I thought POD was all "mafia" so I'm not sure why you're asking for feedback?


 


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