Going Single Speed but have no idea

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Going Single Speed but have no idea
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flag Reign-of-terror
Posted: Jul 31, 2015 at 8:39 Quote
I am one of those riders who is just learning the lay of the land with bike mechanics. I ride downhill/freeride with a Giant Reign X2 (mostly stock). I've had some good luck so far, no broken hangers or replaced parts on my dérailleur. However I am getting tired of keeping things on my bike to which I don't use. I only use the bike for DH/FR and in the past three years I've used the gears very little, so I doubt I would miss that much. Plus I case jumps like its my day job lol. Coupled with the fact that I am just learning How to repair my bike at home (with YouTube/ big blue book) and failing at it; trailside maintaince to the dérailleur area freaks me out. So to avoid that and to eliminate that which I don't use.... I've decided to go single speed.

What parts will I need all in all?

What conversion kits do you recommend?

Can I use my existing truvativ bash guard?

Thanks riders!!
flag nakos
Posted: Jul 31, 2015 at 8:44 Quote
What model year is your Reign 2?
flag Reign-of-terror
Posted: Jul 31, 2015 at 8:49 Quote
nakos wrote:
What model year is your Reign 2?

2009. ( A bike shop by me bought it by mistake and was a left over for two years until I snatched it up for cheap). It's a vertical dropout
flag nakos
Posted: Jul 31, 2015 at 9:34 Quote
I just realized as I was halfway thru writing my response, you said single speed. As in fixed gear, right, and not a single chain ring (e.g. 1x10)?

If that's the case you will need new cranks, a rear cog (I'd suggest finding your favorite gearing before removing the drivetrain and recording the gear ratio to use on the single speed), the proper cassette tool to remove your rear cassette, crank puller (to remove the cranks), a new chain and chain breaker. I'm not too familiar with single speed, but you will need this stuff for sure to upgrade.

If you wanted to go "single speed" on the cheap, you can set the limits on your derailleurs to keep the chain on the 2nd or 3rd gear in the rear and the 2nd chain ring in the front. Not a perfect solution, but cheap, effective and you can easily get your gears back if you so wanted.
flag Reign-of-terror
Posted: Jul 31, 2015 at 10:36 Quote
nakos wrote:
I just realized as I was halfway thru writing my response, you said single speed. As in fixed gear, right, and not a single chain ring (e.g. 1x10)?

If that's the case you will need new cranks, a rear cog (I'd suggest finding your favorite gearing before removing the drivetrain and recording the gear ratio to use on the single speed), the proper cassette tool to remove your rear cassette, crank puller (to remove the cranks), a new chain and chain breaker. I'm not too familiar with single speed, but you will need this stuff for sure to upgrade.

If you wanted to go "single speed" on the cheap, you can set the limits on your derailleurs to keep the chain on the 2nd or 3rd gear in the rear and the 2nd chain ring in the front. Not a perfect solution, but cheap, effective and you can easily get your gears back if you so wanted.

From your response I think you are still a little confused (or maybe I am) with a Fixie it sounds like I would need new cranks and the works but with a single speed (1x1, like On a bmx) all that is required is a conversion kit ( rear sprocket spacers and tensioner) as well as a single speed chain ring for the front. But since I'm new to this I could be mistaken. A Fixie and single speed are both 1x1 but require different parts to my understanding. I'm not interested in a 1x9 set up, as this would require a dérailleur which obviously I am removing. Thanks for the response either way
flag RunsWithScissors
Posted: Jul 31, 2015 at 16:25 Quote
There are several possibilities, depending on how fancy you wanna get.

You don't necessarily need to have a singlespeed specific crank, chain, cog, etc. Having singlespeed specific parts will give you somewhat longer drivetrain life because everything will be thicker and heavier, and thus will wear and stretch at slower rate, but otherwise it isn't that important. The singlespeed MTB that I ride every day has a singlespeed freewheel, an 8 speed chain, and a 10 speed chainring and it works fine. The chain can slop back and forth sideways a little bit on the chainring, but it doesn't affect the functioning, and I've been running this setup for many months.

If you wanna keep things simple and relatively cheap, get a chain tensioner, a single cog out of an old cassette with an appropriate number of teeth and some cassette spacers. Ditch the unwanted chainrings, front shifter, and derailleur cable, but keep the front derailleur and lock it in place using the limit screws. The front derailleur will now be your chain retention device. You may also want to place the front derailleur a little bit lower on the seat tube (or not, depending on the bike, it might be unnecessary).

If you wanna go full ghetto style, you can go to your local hardware store and buy a 1 1/4" PVC pipe coupling and spend a little time with a rat tail file and a hacksaw to make cassette spacers. The inside diameter of the coupling will be a bit too tight, but about 15 minutes with a file will fix that. Keep your rear derailleur as a chain tensioner and lock it in the appropriate place using the limit screws.

Blammo! Singlespeed.
flag titaniumtit
Posted: Aug 2, 2015 at 8:01 Quote
Oh and try a 2:1 ratio to begin with i.e. 32T front vs a 16T cog out back.

If you find you spin out too quickly for your liking then lose a T on the rear to say a 15T or even a 14T or if you have access to free/cheap chain rings then a 34T or even a 36T front.

usually the 2:1 ratio will be good for bit of everything though mind but depends where you ride/live how hilly etc and how much man power your legs have.

All I know is, is that SS is refreshing and is all about pumping the bike on the trails and maintaining speed rather than losing efficiency changing gears.

Oh ENJOY! Pimp
flag Reign-of-terror
Posted: Aug 2, 2015 at 20:17 Quote
RunsWithScissors wrote:
There are several possibilities, depending on how fancy you wanna get.

You don't necessarily need to have a singlespeed specific crank, chain, cog, etc. Having singlespeed specific parts will give you somewhat longer drivetrain life because everything will be thicker and heavier, and thus will wear and stretch at slower rate, but otherwise it isn't that important. The singlespeed MTB that I ride every day has a singlespeed freewheel, an 8 speed chain, and a 10 speed chainring and it works fine. The chain can slop back and forth sideways a little bit on the chainring, but it doesn't affect the functioning, and I've been running this setup for many months.

If you wanna keep things simple and relatively cheap, get a chain tensioner, a single cog out of an old cassette with an appropriate number of teeth and some cassette spacers. Ditch the unwanted chainrings, front shifter, and derailleur cable, but keep the front derailleur and lock it in place using the limit screws. The front derailleur will now be your chain retention device. You may also want to place the front derailleur a little bit lower on the seat tube (or not, depending on the bike, it might be unnecessary).

If you wanna go full ghetto style, you can go to your local hardware store and buy a 1 1/4" PVC pipe coupling and spend a little time with a rat tail file and a hacksaw to make cassette spacers. The inside diameter of the coupling will be a bit too tight, but about 15 minutes with a file will fix that. Keep your rear derailleur as a chain tensioner and lock it in the appropriate place using the limit screws.

Blammo! Singlespeed.

I def don't want to go ghetto but then again I can't afford to go balls out. Thanks for the great feedback. Besides I don't have the tech skill anyway to go ghetto, I envy that its easy for you. I'm doing some research but have some concerns and questions. Like for instance, what purpose does the front derailleur serve as far as chain tensioning? The chain just grazes it on my DH bike.
flag Reign-of-terror
Posted: Aug 2, 2015 at 20:39 Quote
titaniumtit wrote:
Oh and try a 2:1 ratio to begin with i.e. 32T front vs a 16T cog out back.

If you find you spin out too quickly for your liking then lose a T on the rear to say a 15T or even a 14T or if you have access to free/cheap chain rings then a 34T or even a 36T front.

usually the 2:1 ratio will be good for bit of everything though mind but depends where you ride/live how hilly etc and how much man power your legs have.

All I know is, is that SS is refreshing and is all about pumping the bike on the trails and maintaining speed rather than losing efficiency changing gears.

Oh ENJOY! Pimp

Clear your schedule because the questions are brewing. I have been researching ideal gear ratios and to m surprise I'm catching on quicker than I thought. I do like the 2:1 ratio that you suggest (apparently a common method), however I can't decide what tooth size. I read that a good start is the middle-ground 32T Chain Ring paired with the 16T Cog but if I have a chain tensioner the chain won't have as much contact on the chain (which might cause chain drops). It recommended that I go with a higher 2:1 ratio of 36T Ring and 18T Cog.

1. what are the benefits of the 32T ring / 16 T cog as opposed to the higher ratios of 36/18? Obviously I don't do much pedaling but from time to time I may case a jump (joking I always case) and lose momentum and need to pedal. I don't do the DH races. I like fast, flowy, northshore features (drops, jumps, tables), so I'd like a gear ratio that can accommodate. One question at a time lol
flag titaniumtit
Posted: Aug 3, 2015 at 3:38 Quote
I would suggest 18T AND A 32T if wanting quick acceleration into jumps.

If however you have legs of steel and like to really pump up the volume (man power) then run a 16T and a 32T.

No difference between the 36T and and 18T option to the ones recommended above, as it's the same ratio. simple maths really.

tell us how you get on.
flag RunsWithScissors
Posted: Aug 3, 2015 at 7:08 Quote
I def don't want to go ghetto but then again I can't afford to go balls out. Thanks for the great feedback. Besides I don't have the tech skill anyway to go ghetto, I envy that its easy for you. I'm doing some research but have some concerns and questions. Like for instance, what purpose does the front derailleur serve as far as chain tensioning? The chain just grazes it on my DH bike.[/Quote]

The reason for keeping the front derailleur isn't chain tension, it's to keep the chain from getting thrown off the chainring when riding rock gardens. If your frame had horizontal dropouts or an eccentric bottom bracket this wouldn't be necessary, but since you will probably be using some kind of spring loaded chain tensioner, it will probably let the chain go slack from time to time when you are riding bumpy terrain, and that's when you'll throw the chain off. Keeping the front derailleur and locking it in place using the limit screws is just a no cost way to prevent that from happening.

Another great way to figure this stuff out would be to show up at your LBS near closing time with a sixpack of good beer or a joint and ask whoever is there for some advice. You'll probably leave with less beer, a good plan, and a pocket full of secondhand parts. Before I got into the bike business this always worked well for me.

Best of luck!Smile
flag titaniumtit
Posted: Aug 3, 2015 at 7:18 Quote
RunsWithScissors wrote:
I def don't want to go ghetto but then again I can't afford to go balls out. Thanks for the great feedback. Besides I don't have the tech skill anyway to go ghetto, I envy that its easy for you. I'm doing some research but have some concerns and questions. Like for instance, what purpose does the front derailleur serve as far as chain tensioning? The chain just grazes it on my DH bike.

The reason for keeping the front derailleur isn't chain tension, it's to keep the chain from getting thrown off the chainring when riding rock gardens. If your frame had horizontal dropouts or an eccentric bottom bracket this wouldn't be necessary, but since you will probably be using some kind of spring loaded chain tensioner, it will probably let the chain go slack from time to time when you are riding bumpy terrain, and that's when you'll throw the chain off. Keeping the front derailleur and locking it in place using the limit screws is just a no cost way to prevent that from happening.

Another great way to figure this stuff out would be to show up at your LBS near closing time with a sixpack of good beer or a joint and ask whoever is there for some advice. You'll probably leave with less beer, a good plan, and a pocket full of secondhand parts. Before I got into the bike business this always worked well for me.

Best of luck!Smile [/Quote]

LMAO! NOICE!

But isn't weed highly illegal in the USA? NOT WORTH GETTING CAUGHT IMO
flag RunsWithScissors
Posted: Aug 3, 2015 at 7:28 Quote
titaniumtit wrote:
RunsWithScissors wrote:
I def don't want to go ghetto but then again I can't afford to go balls out. Thanks for the great feedback. Besides I don't have the tech skill anyway to go ghetto, I envy that its easy for you. I'm doing some research but have some concerns and questions. Like for instance, what purpose does the front derailleur serve as far as chain tensioning? The chain just grazes it on my DH bike.

The reason for keeping the front derailleur isn't chain tension, it's to keep the chain from getting thrown off the chainring when riding rock gardens. If your frame had horizontal dropouts or an eccentric bottom bracket this wouldn't be necessary, but since you will probably be using some kind of spring loaded chain tensioner, it will probably let the chain go slack from time to time when you are riding bumpy terrain, and that's when you'll throw the chain off. Keeping the front derailleur and locking it in place using the limit screws is just a no cost way to prevent that from happening.

Another great way to figure this stuff out would be to show up at your LBS near closing time with a sixpack of good beer or a joint and ask whoever is there for some advice. You'll probably leave with less beer, a good plan, and a pocket full of secondhand parts. Before I got into the bike business this always worked well for me.

Best of luck!Smile

LMAO! NOICE!

But isn't weed highly illegal in the USA? NOT WORTH GETTING CAUGHT IMO[/Quote]

"Highly illegal" would be a gross overstatementWink These days it's a grey area. Cops around here only bust people for weed when they really want to bust someone and they can't find any other reason, and for a quantity as small as one joint you'll probably only get a ticket, if even that. Hell, I've had my bong and weed STOLEN by a cop here in New Mexico...
flag titaniumtit
Posted: Aug 3, 2015 at 7:52 Quote
lmao, sounds like a sad story...
flag a-d-e
O+
Posted: Aug 3, 2015 at 9:10 Quote
titaniumtit wrote:
Oh and try a 2:1 ratio to begin with i.e. 32T front vs a 16T cog out back.

If you find you spin out too quickly for your liking then lose a T on the rear to say a 15T or even a 14T or if you have access to free/cheap chain rings then a 34T or even a 36T front.

usually the 2:1 ratio will be good for bit of everything though mind but depends where you ride/live how hilly etc and how much man power your legs have.

All I know is, is that SS is refreshing and is all about pumping the bike on the trails and maintaining speed rather than losing efficiency changing gears.

Oh ENJOY! Pimp
the guy reckons he never changes gears on his bike so why not just take a look at what ratio you already ride & stick with that & ditch all the mechs n shit???
2:1 is great for trail riding but on longer flatter sections its pretty spinney. the OP clearly stated FR/DH so I will put this plainly as I can & straight up suggest 32:14 chainring & cog. rough terrain & DH its impossible to even pedal a 32:16 you will be coasting the whole way down unless you are a slow or novice rider.
I use singlespeeed when bikepacking so have tent & cook kit, sleeping bag all strapped to the bike about 3kg worth of kit in total, in those times i ride 32-17 on hilly routes with lots of climbing, tend to walk some actually quicker than riding.
ridden lots of trail centres with singlespeed also, tend to pump more than pedal on the downs...
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