tubeless set up , my valve stem is leaking

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tubeless set up , my valve stem is leaking
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Posted: Jan 3, 2016 at 23:09 Quote
i tried tightening the presta valve nut more .
but air and orange seal are still weeping by .
other wheel has exact same set up
and is holding air just fine

Posted: Jan 4, 2016 at 7:51 Quote
famous-nobody wrote:
i tried tightening the presta valve nut more .
but air and orange seal are still weeping by .
other wheel has exact same set up
and is holding air just fine

Time for a new valve core or valve stem if the core is not replaceable.

Posted: Jan 4, 2016 at 9:40 Quote
these are brand new.
out of package
stans .

only 1 ride on them
core not leaking

stem is leaking the orange seal from around where it passes through rim hole

Posted: Jan 4, 2016 at 11:17 Quote
Dip the rubber bung bit of the valve in the sealant before putting through the rim before tighten up the o nut

Posted: Jan 4, 2016 at 11:23 Quote
jase111171 wrote:
Dip the rubber bung bit of the valve in the sealant before putting through the rim before tighten up the o nut

i will try that now.

Posted: Jan 4, 2016 at 11:24 Quote
famous-nobody wrote:
jase111171 wrote:
Dip the rubber bung bit of the valve in the sealant before putting through the rim before tighten up the o nut

i will try that now.
try not to inflate the tyre to much aswell

Posted: Jan 4, 2016 at 11:25 Quote
Ok I just went tubless last week . I used revo sealant much less money than stans .but my front tire sealed very easy but my rear tire did the same thing as yours. I had to really tighten valve a lot . Like really crank down on it without breaking it. Make it tighter but be careful. Mine is good over 8 days and no leaking air.I used American classic valves. The came with over sized orings.

Posted: Jan 5, 2016 at 14:33 Quote
If all else fails, try making a gasket out of a piece of old innertube. Cut a disc the size of a nickel, poke a hole in the middle with a fat needle or a sharpened spoke, pull down over the top of the valve and push down to the base of the valve body. Dip the entire base of the valve and gasket in sealant and install. I cut my tubeless valve stems out of old innertubes and have had a high degree of reliability with that, but occasionally when one doesn't completely seal I make a gasket and that fixes it. Maybe I'm just lucky.

Posted: Jan 6, 2016 at 18:18 Quote
I use rubber plumbing washers, a selection of small 'o rings' from B&Q is under £1.50. No need to tighten too hard, its counter productive anyway.
Nice neat finish, thats lasted 15 months now, I plan on doing a latex change before summer and will replace o rings at the same time.


.

Posted: Jan 8, 2016 at 9:42 Quote
You may have the same problem I encountered.

I ran a tube in my rim for a few years, and where the tube moved around the valve stem chewed up the hole it passes through making sealing very difficult to seal for tubeless.

O+
Posted: Jan 8, 2016 at 10:01 Quote
famous-nobody wrote:
i tried tightening the presta valve nut more .
but air and orange seal are still weeping by .
other wheel has exact same set up
and is holding air just fine
ok maybe you already know this but: when you fit the valve dont just rely on the screw nut to pull the rubber tight to the inside of the rim - use your thumb to push it hard whilst turning the nut - if you push hard from the back can get another turn or so on the nut. if you are using the the rectangular rubber type should be able to get the nut fairly tight. the round conical ones dont need to be so tight in my experience as they kinda wedge in fairly well. I have spank with the ooh-bah inner inner profile, theoretically the hardest to seal but I had zero problems.

Posted: Jan 11, 2016 at 22:31 Quote
i just changed from the stan's valve stem to the american classic stem.

and still the stem is leaking.

i also removed the old gorilla tape , wiped down the rim with alcohol , then re-taped the rim too.

and it still leaks

i am going to try the nickel size inner tube gasket trick next.
.

Posted: Jan 12, 2016 at 2:06 Quote
make sure the gorilla tape hasn't rolled anywhere, pop the bead back and make sure theres no bunched patches, if it's peeled back, FYP

i went through this with some carbon rims i built about a month ago, tried three valves and gave up: pulled the tyre and found the stans tape had rolled and lifted, retaped and problem solved!

Posted: Jan 12, 2016 at 5:07 Quote
el-booto wrote:
make sure the gorilla tape hasn't rolled anywhere, pop the bead back and make sure theres no bunched patches, if it's peeled back, FYP

i went through this with some carbon rims i built about a month ago, tried three valves and gave up: pulled the tyre and found the stans tape had rolled and lifted, retaped and problem solved!

I've found that not taping over the areas where the tire bead sits to be helpful in preventing damage to the tape when installing and removing tires. I wind it on just wide enough to cover the trough in the rim bed and that's it. If you look in the shop photos on my page I have a pic of tape wound that way on a hookless carbon rim.

O+
Posted: Jan 12, 2016 at 12:46 Quote
famous-nobody wrote:
i just changed from the stan's valve stem to the american classic stem.

and still the stem is leaking.

i also removed the old gorilla tape , wiped down the rim with alcohol , then re-taped the rim too.

and it still leaks

i am going to try the nickel size inner tube gasket trick next.
.
does it still leak after 2 days? if a 8mm cut can seal dont understand why the valve wont seal. you need to hold the wheel with the valve at the bottom & shake the wheel to splash the sealant over the inside of the valve to fill up any gaps between the valve/rim. I am 100% certain you are doing something wrong. unless faulty components.
did you press the valve really hard into the rim when you tighten?. push the valve hard as you tighten the nut on the stem.

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