I'm 6 foot 2, 160 lbs. I grew up mountain biking, have always dirt jumped big bikes and currently own a downhill rig. I am planning on riding an indoor park in the winter and riding trails with some brakes during the summer.
Been test riding a friends spare 2009 FBM Marauder for the local bike nights and love it, but I hit my knee on the stem/bars a few times when I was learning to air out. I think I didn't pop enough and had to crouch, because most of the time It flowed nicely. When I consciously thought about it they didn't hit
The bike has a 20.5" toptube, 175mm cranks, 50mm stem and S&M Grand Slam bars (8.25x29")
I know it's a bit small, but do you think that's it or is It just a posture thing? Worth buying real cheap to ride large dirt jumps with or hold out for something better? Any input appreciated, thanks!
I'm the same height and about 200lbs, I think that TT is going to be a little too small for you. You might be able to rock some "knee saver" bars from GT or Haro of you don't mind the way they look (I like them, personally). I prefer a 21-22" TT, any smaller and I feel like I'm cramped.
I'm the same height and about 200lbs, I think that TT is going to be a little too small for you. You might be able to rock some "knee saver" bars from GT or Haro of you don't mind the way they look (I like them, personally). I prefer a 21-22" TT, any smaller and I feel like I'm cramped.
Awesome to hear from somebody else my size! Yeah, I was afraid of that after looking at that chart. I think I'll still buy it, but be on the lookout for a 21.5 or larger trails frame.
Awesome to hear from somebody else my size! Yeah, I was afraid of that after looking at that chart. I think I'll still buy it, but be on the lookout for a 21.5 or larger trails frame.
You can tilt your bars a little more forward, and you can also try to keep your stance more centered over your cranks and not leaning forward on your hands.
Although buying a longer frame is the better way to go, you can also buy a longer stem. Most of the time they max out at about 53mm reach, but there are a few that are longer, like 57, 62, even 68mm.
Hadn't thought about lengthening the wheelbase, I'll have to do that come spring.
Thanks for the links to those stems! I think I would rather go with a longer top load then get even bigger bars. I've debated getting a cruiser or even a DJ 26er, but there's something so fun about being able to whip a three around on a tiny bank.
I'm going to run my bars a bit forward, focus on staying centered and see how this week goes!
I am just under 6' and even with a 21 if I'm not paying attention I'll hit the bars with my knees. I think it's just something that happens but yeah, a 20.5 will be short for a guy your size. Maybe as a tight park frame but I think as others have stated, a 21 or 22 would be a good fit.
CMC mentioned the 22" option and I'm waiting for mine. I have wheels and a fork in the mail and my frame is in the jig right now. I hope to have it ready for spring!! I have been riding a 24" for years and they are much more relaxed than a 20 but some of them with more updated geometry are pretty decent.
CMC mentioned the 22" option and I'm waiting for mine. I have wheels and a fork in the mail and my frame is in the jig right now. I hope to have it ready for spring!! ....
Sweet. Have you decided on the geo or is It TBD/secret ?! ; )
71° seat tube angle (somewhere between Faction and SnM) who really cares anyhow, it may move the seat 3/4"...
11 3/4 BB height.
14" chain stays, maybe 13.75 slammed IF I can make that work and 14.5" to the back of the drop outs.
I like a low stand over but I got a butted seat tube from Solid Bikes so it limits what I can do. I think it's a 9" tube (if memory serves) so maybe an 8.5" stand over. I'd like to trim it to fit and use a wedge post because I like that clean look. Still, I have a nice green Shadow clamp I'd like to use..... Oh the important things.
Not sure about the weight... I'm using straight tubing 0.049 (so a little heavier than 0.035) for the DT and 0.035 for the TT but I'm using much lighter parts (head tube and BB shell) than my Cruiser frame. The cruiser came in at 6lbs even so I figure I should be able to save 1lb without too much trouble. The cruiser I built tough as nails for no reason other than it was mostly stuff I had lying around and the chain stay to BB shell needed to be so tight I had to make a part that should have been lighter but I was in a hurry and just got it done. Really on that bike it's the rims and tires that make the bike heavy, I could put it on a diet but I really don't care. If the 22 comes in 25-26lbs I'll be happy.
That was quite the thread jack wasn't it. Sorry to the OP!
No worries man! That's how the best conversations go. So you lay up and weld your own frames? That's sweet! I am just getting into welding from other fab work and find that fascinating. Our old local shop used to do their own bmx frames. I'm currently working on welding a custom roof rack and might start a thread on that.
A 22'' seems pretty perfect for me, they just aren't as cheap (readily available) as 20". I ended up buying that 2009 fbm for $100 given it's current shape. Rusted cranks and chain, chipped rattlecanned front wheel, pretty large rusty gouge on the chainstay. Got some nice extra dirt tires and pegs too, so if I get a new frame I'll have parts to start with. Rode for a few hours last night and it felt a little awkward, but I'm coming from a 46 lb 8" travel freeride bike and still had a blast!
Bikes like that can make a come back. Cromo has chrome in it for it's rust resistant properties so things don't usually get too bad. As long as you don't mind stripping and sanding, or just ride it and take the heat for a crappy looking bike. I do put the rattle can spray jobs on my frames, pretty bikes get stolen.
You can find 22" stuff used. The Facebook page seems to be the best place to start.