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Posted: Apr 16, 2015 at 9:03 Quote
I run a tug on the drive side only, maybe you could do away with the non-drive side one? I've never had any slipping on the non-drive side dropout.

I think some photos would help, if the threaded part of the axle clears or is flush with the ends of the nuts I wouldn't worry about it

Posted: Apr 16, 2015 at 9:39 Quote
wingman2 wrote:
Hi guys, hope you can help.

I am using a prototype race BMX frame that runs a MTB rear hub with a disk brake.

I have built up a Halo hub laced to a Halo front rim with a XT brake setup and that all works awesome.

However, because I am using chain tuggers, the bolt (Halo again) that goes through the axle is being held in place with very little thread on the 'nut' end.

The bolt has to go through a chain tugger, then the frame, then another chain tugger and finally in the nut.

It is together but I don't feel it is secured enough with that small amount of threads holding it all together, so does anyone know of any companies that sell the 5mm bolt that does the job (non-quick release) but a little longer than the standard length please?

Many thanks for your help,

Cheers,

Chris.

Which Halo hub do you have?

Posted: Apr 16, 2015 at 12:26 Quote
Scotj009 wrote:
get a new set of chain tugs it will be cheaper

No point in this, just run a tug only on the drive side

Posted: Apr 16, 2015 at 13:53 Quote
jamieridesbikes wrote:
Sweet, a bit of small bump compliance would be good though, you think some air can volume spacers would be an idea?

The Reba sounds like a good choice, I have a lowered sektor RL (with 20mm pike lowers) on the dj bike and it's light and surprisingly stiff for a 32mm fork. I'd recommend the RL damper if you can't find an RLT. It handles a lowering pretty well if you ever need, I went from 150 to 70ish and it's still got a good range of adjustment.

Interesting... I just saw a suntour axon fork on ebay and wonder if it's any good. It weighs less than a normal reba and is a good 200 bucks cheaper. Also, from my experience, suntour's customer service is top notch.

O+
Posted: Apr 16, 2015 at 14:39 Quote
Joebohobo wrote:
Scotj009 wrote:
get a new set of chain tugs it will be cheaper

No point in this, just run a tug only on the drive side

There's a better idea^

Posted: Apr 16, 2015 at 14:50 Quote
I found my old singlespeed always slipped on the non drive side

Posted: Apr 16, 2015 at 14:59 Quote
I ran a QR axle on horizontal axles with just a tug on the drive side and it held fine, but yeah, doesn't mean it works for every frame/axle

Posted: Apr 17, 2015 at 3:37 Quote
Can't remember if he stated which hub he was using but surely it's not impossible to convert the hub axle to 10mm bolt up? That would be much stronger and less prone to slipping then 5 bolted axle?


Anybody rock DMR chain tugs? The ones with mech hanger? Gears are the only thing I'm waiting on for the 4x. That and spokes.

Posted: Apr 17, 2015 at 4:10 Quote
What frame are you using for the 4x build?


Booked the meta and bid on a couple of monarchs on eBay. awh yiss.
Can anyone recommend a cheap sealed zs44/zs56 headset for a straight steerer? The cheapest I can find is the £30 nukeproof one on crc.

Posted: Apr 17, 2015 at 4:51 Quote
Superstar? Worth paying for a good head set. I got a cheap cane creek 10series. A lot of plastic parts, the bearing fell to bits after a few months use. Go cane creek 40 series or hope
Hope is Worth paying the extra as it'll last a LOT longer

Posted: Apr 17, 2015 at 4:58 Quote
I've got a 40 on my DH, they're great. I can't find an affordable one to fit though. The nukeproof has sealed bearings and sounds reliable. Superstar are out of stock on anything that would fit

O+
Posted: Apr 17, 2015 at 10:15 Quote
nukeproofs are reliable but not as reliable as hope Smile

Posted: Apr 17, 2015 at 15:03 Quote
I have run nukeproof, hope and superstar headsets before. Hope by far the best due to quality, but never had a problem with either nukeproof or superstar headsets

Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 4:55 Quote
Has anybody tried running a Straitline Silentguide without the bash ring? I got fed up with the noise from my E-13. I'm running a rear mech with a clutch so the chain is pretty tight

Posted: Apr 20, 2015 at 6:02 Quote
rAtty-c wrote:
Can't remember if he stated which hub he was using but surely it's not impossible to convert the hub axle to 10mm bolt up? That would be much stronger and less prone to slipping then 5 bolted axle?
.

Hi guys,

I am using a Halo Supadrive hub.

Can the 5mm skewer setup be changed for a 10mm bolt in axle do you know?

Cheers lads

:-)


 


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