Ok, so I got it apart, again, just to make sure I have the right measurements.
My frame is a 68mm But, with the external BB, I get 93mm, so basically I need a flush part of the spindle of 93mm:
But, my spindle has a flush part of only 74-75mm:
I need it to be like this in order to avoid the play:
So, would it be ok to get the 165mm spindle and add some spacers between the crank arms and the sprocket/conic spacer, if it's too big? Because the chainline is good now.
Because I think that the flush side is the right length...
So, would it be ok to get the 165mm spindle and add some spacers between the crank arms and the sprocket/conic spacer, if it's too big? Because the chainline is good now.
Because I think that the flush side is the right length...
I would add the spacers on the non-drive side so that you don't mess up your chain path.
Ok, so I got it apart, again, just to make sure I have the right measurements.
My frame is a 68mm But, with the external BB, I get 93mm, so basically I need a flush part of the spindle of 93mm:
But, my spindle has a flush part of only 74-75mm:
I need it to be like this in order to avoid the play:
So, would it be ok to get the 165mm spindle and add some spacers between the crank arms and the sprocket/conic spacer, if it's too big? Because the chainline is good now.
Because I think that the flush side is the right length...
I'm not sure it matters if the splined part of the spindle goes through the bearings rather than just the "flush" or smooth part.
Me either. When I made that recommendation earlier, I was picturing an 8-spline spindle (a lot of my previous cranks have been 8 spline opposed to 48, so I just assumed)
With an 8 spline, it would matter, with a 48, it really shouldn't. Either way, I think an internal euro bb would be cheaper than almost any spindle (at least where I live it's like $40 for bb vs. $78-80 for a spindle) so why not just replace the bb?
I think the reason your cranks have play is that there isn't enough 'spline space' to hold the cranks on properly. This is the only possible explanation now, as normally bmx bbs (68mm) with threaded shells are usually run with normal, internal euro bottom brackets. You are running and external, which is usually how someone with an aluminum frame would run a threaded bmx bb, so that they can use deity vendettas or octane one 2 or 3piece 19mm cranks.
What I'm saying is, when you tighten your bolts all the way, the crank arms aren't held by enough spindle, so they wobble.
The other reason I'm saying this is because, you generally want the crankarms to clear the frame by at least 5-6mm, but you don't want them too far out. If you get a spindle made for 83mm bbs, your bike might feel a bit different.
Idk, I like my feet as close to the frame as possible, personally.
I'm a new user, but have been browsing this forums for a while now
I have a small problem.
Currently I have a dirtjump bike with bmx cranks, bmx BB but with external bearings, made to fit mtb frames. The cranks have a 19mm 48 spline chromoly spindle and a chainring of 28t, because I have a driver of 9t, everything brand new...made the bike myself and my local bike shop
The problem is that ... the chainring appears to be off-center ... on both axes! So I have a point where the chain is stretched to the maximum, and another in which it hits my frame because of how loose it is.
I went to fix this at my local bike shop, but they couldn’t do too much and the problem began to worsen The chainring is perfectly round and flat, so I know it's not from it. And the spline seems alright, but it appears to move a little inside the BB.. Now, I do not know if the problem are the cranks (xposure infinity) or the BB (Octane One External) ... but I am thinking about changing them both, with something better.
And now comes my question ... should I go for another BMX crank and BB ... or should I get a MTB set like the Hope Spiderless cranks? What do you think?
Thank you in advance.
I think the hat washer in the sprocket may be incorrect or missing. This would explain a crooked sprocket or one where the chain gets super tight then super loose.
Maybe this will help.. Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/sublimewind/Bike%20Pics/20160419_175750.jpg Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/sublimewind/Bike%20Pics/20160419_175724.jpg The cone washer is on the non drive side, I have the thinnest washer I had on the drive side and my chain alignment is perfect..
Do you have a way of adjusting alignment in the rear? Spacers moving or something, my SS kit allows 2 positions and inboard and an outboard option
Also, im sorry if it's been gone over, do you have a spacer between the bearings?
Guys, sorry for not posting these days, I have some problems at work
Many thanks for all your replies ^_^
I want to keep the external BB because I heard it's more durable...is that true? And yes, I also like the crank arms as close as possible to the frame...
I'm waiting for the spline-drive sprocket to arrive, and I ordered a 150 mm Subrosa Bitchin spindle. I'll post some pictures and a video once they get here