Hi, im totally new to the dirt jump and mountain biking scene and im currently looking for a new bike, i love the style of dirt jump frames and will be using this bike for commuting to work (around 3 miles, not many hills) and also learning jumps on the weekends, i would also like to try possibly some street riding and maybe the occassional trail riding.
I have been looking at a few bikes and im unsure which way to go and was hoping for some help.
Info about me: 5ft 10" average build
The 2 bikes which i am looking at just now are listed with the specs below, hopefully someone can shed some light on which one i should buy as i see some things i like and dont like on each bike and the price is pretty much the same for each one.
Option 1
DMR Sidekick 2 (this one looks a bit old) 9 Speed Shimano SLX gearing Hope hydraulic discs front and rear Halo tornado wheels Hone crankset Charge saddle and what looks like cheap forks? (im unsure of the brand)
The cons i see with this one is, it looks like it could do with a decent clean up but it has gears which im more leaning towards for the commuting and light trails that i may do. cheap forks look like they may need an upgrade.
Option 2
identiti 666 fox air forks kashima avid alixr rear hydraulic brake kona wide handlebars bolt through shimano front wheel with maxxis off road tyres raceface stem adjustable rear mech to fit 24" wheels
If you want to put gears on the identiti, it depends on the hub. If it is a singlespeed hub, then you cannot put a cassette on it. If it is just a converted regular mtb hub, then you will need a cassette, chain, derailleur, and MAYBE a different chainring, probably with a chain guide on it. But single speed I would say is better for dirt and street riding. The identiti looks like a nicer, newer bike and would be very good on the jumps. Just depends on how much trails or jumps you would do. Both are nice looking bikes. Cheers! Bobby
p.s those are not kashima coated, but still very nice forks.
I ride 10 miles to work in 45 minutes. 26" rim 32/14 gearing and 400mm seatpost in high rise position. Go with quick change seatpost clamp and you got best of both worlds. If you have a choice get a fork with "lock out" to keep from having "pedal bobbing".
I ride 10 miles to work in 45 minutes. 26" rim 32/14 gearing and 400mm seatpost in high rise position. Go with quick change seatpost clamp and you got best of both worlds. If you have a choice get a fork with "lock out" to keep from having "pedal bobbing".
That's a good gear ratio for keeping a nice fast pace, but still crankable from stop lights.
I agree with you on lock out, but it's rare on jump-specific forks; stiff coil or extra psi can do the trick though. If you don't lean on your hands too much and let your feet and rear triable do the work, it lessens pedal bob on a hard tail....
I ride 10 miles to work in 45 minutes. 26" rim 32/14 gearing and 400mm seatpost in high rise position. Go with quick change seatpost clamp and you got best of both worlds. If you have a choice get a fork with "lock out" to keep from having "pedal bobbing".
That's a good gear ratio for keeping a nice fast pace, but still crankable from stop lights.
I agree with you on lock out, but it's rare on jump-specific forks; stiff coil or extra psi can do the trick though. If you don't lean on your hands too much and let your feet and rear triable do the work, it lessens pedal bob on a hard tail....
I find the same. 32/14 works out great. My haro steel reserve is 28/12 which is little more crank inch. I don't even think a 32t chain ring would fit with the haro chain stay being so close to the sprocket.
As for the lockout, guess another reason to go with circus fork. My "comp" fork locks out imagine the "pro" would have the same.
I have add that the "pedaling innovations -catalyst" pedals do add some power to the crank and jump stability. Been running for 3 weeks and i dont think I'd ever go back. Great product.