Still a fan of the DT-Swiss one. There all pretty much the same, but honestly take your own measurements. Preloaded measurements will bite you in the ass.
Still a fan of the DT-Swiss one. There all pretty much the same, but honestly take your own measurements. Preloaded measurements will bite you in the ass.
Yea, I always use the measurements provided by the manufacturer.
Also, So this is my first time building wheels with different size flanges f/r and l/r..I really don't want to buy 4 different boxes of spokes lol How much wiggle room +/- is there on spoke length reccomendations?
Still a fan of the DT-Swiss one. There all pretty much the same, but honestly take your own measurements. Preloaded measurements will bite you in the ass.
Yea, I always use the measurements provided by the manufacturer.
Also, So this is my first time building wheels with different size flanges f/r and l/r..I really don't want to buy 4 different boxes of spokes lol How much wiggle room +/- is there on spoke length reccomendations?
I wouldn't go further than 2mm. I do't have a lot of wheels under my belt (13), but that seems to be the golden number for my skill.
Still a fan of the DT-Swiss one. There all pretty much the same, but honestly take your own measurements. Preloaded measurements will bite you in the ass.
Yea, I always use the measurements provided by the manufacturer.
Also, So this is my first time building wheels with different size flanges f/r and l/r..I really don't want to buy 4 different boxes of spokes lol How much wiggle room +/- is there on spoke length reccomendations?
I wouldn't go further than 2mm. I do't have a lot of wheels under my belt (13), but that seems to be the golden number for my skill.
If you want to cheat in a sense you can use a 16mm nipples and that will cover you for using slightly shorter spokes. Most of the time you have about +/-1mm of wiggle room without exposed threads.