Home Made Bikes

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flag madm3chanic
Posted: Aug 31, 2014 at 18:13 Quote
ridgidframe wrote:
Arnoodles wrote:
It might also be useful to look at some leverage ratio curves, chain growth, anti squat, etc from current bikes and do some research on them. They'll help a lot in making a good design, and will allow you to tweak it to behave how you want. Do keep in mind that single pivots can work well but are somewhat limited in adjusting these things as there are only a few things to adjust.
Do you just look at the vijes already on linkage because most of this are pre 2005 can you look at new bikes?

dude, just spend a bit more time learning how it works. there is hundreds of linkage files available for just about every bike you can think of from the last few years, just click on "search web library" when you go to open a new linkage file, and they will be revealed...

building a bike frame will take you months, just be patient and learn how it all works first young padowan.
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Aug 31, 2014 at 18:20 Quote
madm3chanic wrote:
ridgidframe wrote:
Arnoodles wrote:
It might also be useful to look at some leverage ratio curves, chain growth, anti squat, etc from current bikes and do some research on them. They'll help a lot in making a good design, and will allow you to tweak it to behave how you want. Do keep in mind that single pivots can work well but are somewhat limited in adjusting these things as there are only a few things to adjust.
Do you just look at the vijes already on linkage because most of this are pre 2005 can you look at new bikes?

dude, just spend a bit more time learning how it works. there is hundreds of linkage files available for just about every bike you can think of from the last few years, just click on "search web library" when you go to open a new linkage file, and they will be revealed...

building a bike frame will take you months, just be patient and learn how it all works first young padowan.
Thank you I have been spending a lot of time with it I started on it 4 days ago and I have probably spent 20 hours + on it I'm juat still trying to learn things like that which I over looked thank you for your help it is much appreciated.
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Aug 31, 2014 at 18:21 Quote
ridgidframe wrote:
madm3chanic wrote:
ridgidframe wrote:

Do you just look at the vijes already on linkage because most of this are pre 2005 can you look at new bikes?

dude, just spend a bit more time learning how it works. there is hundreds of linkage files available for just about every bike you can think of from the last few years, just click on "search web library" when you go to open a new linkage file, and they will be revealed...

building a bike frame will take you months, just be patient and learn how it all works first young padowan.
Thank you I have been spending a lot of time with it I started on it 4 days ago and I have probably spent 20 hours + on it I'm juat still trying to learn things like that, which I over looked. thank you for your help it is much appreciated.
flag brigand
Posted: Sep 3, 2014 at 13:19 Quote
ridgidframe wrote:
what do you guys thing about the design so far. if you have any feed back please say.
and what program do i use to make this 3d?
bike design

by ridgidframe
Views: 802    Faves: 0    Comments: 1

i'd like to see leverage ratio and chain growth graphs but otherwise the BB seems overly high
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 3, 2014 at 18:56 Quote
brigand wrote:
ridgidframe wrote:
what do you guys thing about the design so far. if you have any feed back please say.
and what program do i use to make this 3d?
bike design

by ridgidframe
Views: 802    Faves: 0    Comments: 1

i'd like to see leverage ratio and chain growth graphs but otherwise the BB seems overly high
Yes I'm quite a bit better on the software now so I just scrap the deisgn as a learning experiance and now have a couple deisgn that have good leverage ratios and gain growth etc.
flag I-M-D
O+
Posted: Sep 3, 2014 at 19:56 Quote
Hey Mate, here is a good site for simple explanations of the terminology and meanings http://www.i-tracksuspension.com/suspensiontheory.html . Its a good read because it is easy to understand and accepts that there is no optimum designs for all situations. This is a must read, Path Analysis by Ken Sasaki http://members.home.nl/vd.kraats/ligfiets/pa/index.htm . It talks about a lot of older bikes that were around when it was written, but the theory hasn't changed. Just accept there is always compromises and design the bike with the desired traits you want most and ignore the fashions of the moment.
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 3, 2014 at 20:58 Quote
I-M-D wrote:
Hey Mate, here is a good site for simple explanations of the terminology and meanings http://www.i-tracksuspension.com/suspensiontheory.html . Its a good read because it is easy to understand and accepts that there is no optimum designs for all situations. This is a must read, Path Analysis by Ken Sasaki http://members.home.nl/vd.kraats/ligfiets/pa/index.htm . It talks about a lot of older bikes that were around when it was written, but the theory hasn't changed. Just accept there is always compromises and design the bike with the desired traits you want most and ignore the fashions of the moment.
Thank you mate this information has improved my understanding greatly thank you so much
flag sucio-sanchez
Posted: Sep 3, 2014 at 23:11 Quote
Is there an application like this for mac?
flag smalltownboycustoms
Posted: Sep 4, 2014 at 3:33 Quote
Motoracer531 wrote:
Is there an application like this for mac?

I've got linkage working on my Macbook using a program called WineBottler. http://winebottler.kronenberg.org/
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 4, 2014 at 22:23 Quote
I almost fully built a jig today the only peices I need are centering cones do you guys have any cheaper ideas I could use for them?
flag jacque-lucque
Posted: Sep 5, 2014 at 10:17 Quote
A plumb bob? Depends on the dia' of your toobz I guess.
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 5, 2014 at 16:52 Quote
The dia of the tubes are going to be as standard as possible.No hydro formed ect... I just don't want to spend alot of money on getting the cones lathed id perfer to spend it on the frame
flag madm3chanic
Posted: Sep 6, 2014 at 2:06 Quote
centering cones suck balls mate. i tried blumb bobs heaps of times but they are never accurate. i dont even use them to center my seat tubes any more, they seriously suck nuts.

you'd think that they would keep your headtube dead square, but that mofo can vary like 3mm top to bottom depending on how you put it in. just use a long screw thread of some sort or a 1" ali precision round bar held each side by tube blocks, and get a couple of plugs lathed by your closest machinist to fit on the thread and squash into the headtube nice and close.

i personally used a ceiling plasterboard elevator for the thread on my fisrt serious jig- every building site has about 50 lying around, if you're the cheaky type. its a 1" square cut thread, similar to what you find on tube benders and all sorts of machinery. you can google square cut thread and just buy 500mm lengths of it quite cheaply.

this is what i currently use- its a 32mm round bar with some tube block thingies i had waterjet cut to hold/clamp it

photo

the two blocks holding in the headtube are lathed to allow 1 1/8th, integrated 45/45 campy, 1.5" integrated and 1.5" insert to all mount on them (you just push it in till it squashes in), then you clamp them in place with the 8mm bolts.

simple!
flag jacque-lucque
Posted: Sep 6, 2014 at 2:31 Quote
That's pretty snazzy! A full pic of your jig would be pretty ace to see.
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 6, 2014 at 17:30 Quote
madm3chanic wrote:
centering cones suck balls mate. i tried blumb bobs heaps of times but they are never accurate. i dont even use them to center my seat tubes any more, they seriously suck nuts.

you'd think that they would keep your headtube dead square, but that mofo can vary like 3mm top to bottom depending on how you put it in. just use a long screw thread of some sort or a 1" ali precision round bar held each side by tube blocks, and get a couple of plugs lathed by your closest machinist to fit on the thread and squash into the headtube nice and close.

i personally used a ceiling plasterboard elevator for the thread on my fisrt serious jig- every building site has about 50 lying around, if you're the cheaky type. its a 1" square cut thread, similar to what you find on tube benders and all sorts of machinery. you can google square cut thread and just buy 500mm lengths of it quite cheaply.

this is what i currently use- its a 32mm round bar with some tube block thingies i had waterjet cut to hold/clamp it

photo

the two blocks holding in the headtube are lathed to allow 1 1/8th, integrated 45/45 campy, 1.5" integrated and 1.5" insert to all mount on them (you just push it in till it squashes in), then you clamp them in place with the 8mm bolts.

simple!
That is a really good idea thank you. I'm going to use it I just have a quick question what should I use for the bb to hold it in place? I was thinking a old steel bb with plugs where the bearings are held in place with a bolt through the middle. One last thing where do you guys buy your steel I'm currently looking for a place to buy high quality steel at I was thinking 4130 chromoly.

 


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