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flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 25, 2014 at 14:58 Quote
R-trailking-S wrote:
ridgidframe wrote:
R-trailking-S wrote:
Is your drive sprocket concentric with the pivot?

If it is, you could change how much antisquat you get by just changing the rear sprocket size. Would be a neat adjustment. You would then need horizontal dropouts, which would give you adjustable chainstays.
this sounds intresting. the ability to change anti squat. but what does it mean when you say if the drive sprocket is concentric with the the pivot. i know what concentric split pivot chain stays and bb's are. is it when the drive is where the pivot is like concentric bb?
the easiest example is slope bikes with concentric single pivots. They pedal terribly because the pivot is so low and the chainline of a big front and small rear cog pulls the suspension into its travel, making a lot of bob. However they probably could pedal better if they had at least a 1-1 cog size, but then they would be useful for going really slow only. Since you have a "gearbox" plus another chain to get to the pivot, there are plenty of ways to get to the right final drive while still adjusting antisquat by changing the rear sprocket and thus chainline.

Ps: check your antisquat irrespective to chainline first. You'll probably find you have a lot more than 120% antisquat before the chain comes into play if your frame looks like what i think it does. Also if you do it this way, there's no change in chainline, so it should feel more consistent and predictable on the pedals.
im definally going to try this on my next bike which will be a gearbox bike as well but the design i have has the igh back from the main pivot a little bit and i just want to play with the idea of a gearbox bike before i have to do a bunch of machine work to get my main pivot to run where the hub is
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 26, 2014 at 22:55 Quote
please dont judge lack of solid works skill
this is the frame idea please dont judge lack of solid works skill first time using it
flag ajax-ripper
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 1:20 Quote
I would consider a serious redesign. That top tube will be brutal on the ballsack
flag fabdemaere
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 2:09 Quote
It's original. Doesn't look like a session.
flag jacque-lucque
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 2:32 Quote
Floating shock. Wild.
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 7:50 Quote
jacque-lucque wrote:
Floating shock. Wild.
yes i heard i should run a floating shock so i did. Nawh I just havent made the mount yet.
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 7:54 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
I would consider a serious redesign. That top tube will be brutal on the ballsack
the top tude is pretty low and the two pushrods are very close the the seattube for clearence reasons.
flag TreyDownhill
O+
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 9:25 Quote
ridgidframe wrote:
please dont judge lack of solid works skill
this is the frame idea please dont judge lack of solid works skill first time using it

Don't go crazy. We appreciate innovation but this is a little bit too weird. Keep working and tweaking the design. Keep it reasonable thoughAttention
flag iffy
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 9:40 Quote
looks like it might be a bit top heavy
flag joose
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 10:00 Quote
ridgidframe wrote:
please dont judge lack of solid works skill
this is the frame idea please dont judge lack of solid works skill first time using it

I like where you are going, getting a little on the wild side Big Grin Can i recommend trying to move everything down below your top tube? say 100mm or so? Keep the pivot on your seat tube and you will keep that square bump suppleness and rear axle movement you were after. i like the pushrod-to-link idea. i think you can have that all really low to your down tube though to keep a nice and low center of gravity. But like i said above, I like where you are going, your ground work is done now its the molding!
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 14:15 Quote
TreyDownhill wrote:
ridgidframe wrote:
please dont judge lack of solid works skill
this is the frame idea please dont judge lack of solid works skill first time using it

Don't go crazy. We appreciate innovation but this is a little bit too weird. Keep working and tweaking the design. Keep it reasonable thoughAttention
it is just really hard to fit a shock and hub in a frame. Plus I wanted something different
flag 3lfd3wd
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 14:18 Quote
Zerode have the gearhub in a similar position to you with the main pivot, but they drive the shock from below. Have a look at their frame
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 15:55 Quote
3lfd3wd wrote:
Zerode have the gearhub in a similar position to you with the main pivot, but they drive the shock from below. Have a look at their frame
yea I didnt want to copy there design
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 16:36 Quote
joose wrote:
ridgidframe wrote:
please dont judge lack of solid works skill
this is the frame idea please dont judge lack of solid works skill first time using it

I like where you are going, getting a little on the wild side Big Grin Can i recommend trying to move everything down below your top tube? say 100mm or so? Keep the pivot on your seat tube and you will keep that square bump suppleness and rear axle movement you were after. i like the pushrod-to-link idea. i think you can have that all really low to your down tube though to keep a nice and low center of gravity. But like i said above, I like where you are going, your ground work is done now its the molding!
thanks! yea I have spent quite a while on this design so far. I tryed to move all the suspension components down a bit it but when that happends it raises the bb and when I lower it again it messes up everything with top tube length to seat tube length. But I am going to try it again. Before I go any farther. when the shock is
Fully compressed it is almost as close as I would want it to the down tube

Edit: I almost forgot the biggest problem is that the swing arm when fully compress has to go above the top tube
flag joose
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 19:50 Quote
ridgidframe wrote:
joose wrote:
ridgidframe wrote:
please dont judge lack of solid works skill
this is the frame idea please dont judge lack of solid works skill first time using it

I like where you are going, getting a little on the wild side Big Grin Can i recommend trying to move everything down below your top tube? say 100mm or so? Keep the pivot on your seat tube and you will keep that square bump suppleness and rear axle movement you were after. i like the pushrod-to-link idea. i think you can have that all really low to your down tube though to keep a nice and low center of gravity. But like i said above, I like where you are going, your ground work is done now its the molding!
thanks! yea I have spent quite a while on this design so far. I tryed to move all the suspension components down a bit it but when that happends it raises the bb and when I lower it again it messes up everything with top tube length to seat tube length. But I am going to try it again. Before I go any farther. when the shock is
Fully compressed it is almost as close as I would want it to the down tube

Edit: I almost forgot the biggest problem is that the swing arm when fully compress has to go above the top tube

You got it drawn in linkage?

 


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