Yep, seat post is about 6 inches too long at the moment. I will make a clamp that fits over the top, the same as my road bike. There won't be any dropper style post on this thing.
Hey zx793r, when you build your mold, how is the plug created? Do you take the foam frame and cut it in half and mount it to the cardboard before forming the fiberglass, or do you sink the foam frame into the cardboard until only half of it is exposed?
Hey zx793r, when you build your mold, how is the plug created? Do you take the foam frame and cut it in half and mount it to the cardboard before forming the fiberglass, or do you sink the foam frame into the cardboard until only half of it is exposed?
Just built the cardboard (in my case 3mm MDF) around the frame. The frame stayed intact. Cutting it in half would create an issue when you get to the headset as you would need to allow for the thickness of the cut.
Cyclocross geometry Citybike for my best friend ... she is small.
that really is sweet...godamn the amount of work you put into those chainstays man!! i recon on the next one you should experiment with tapering the box sections at the dropout end to become narrower. wouldn't take you any more work but it might look pretty cool
Alright, here's another one from me. It's a tour-able commuter bike (hence the long stays) with a low top tube (consistent with many of the mountain bikes I've made). The rear dropouts are from a batch that I machined several years ago. I machined most of the parts, including all the bosses. The fork dropouts are 15mm thru-axle dropouts from PMW. The head tube is tall because I ride fairly upright (especially when commuting), and I didn't want a big stack of spacers. Frame is TIG welded.
There are a few others of the process in the album - unfortunately I can't make them show as they are oriented "the wrong way" for Pinkbike, apparently!
Been lurking in this thread for ages, thought I would post up what I'm working on, Essentially a burly Tandem MTB will utilize a rear end from a transition dirtbag as its super burly and should take anything that can be thrown at it.
First phase is to get it riding, it has a high average leverage ration (around 3:1) so phase 2 will be a new pair of rocker links to reduce this down. but the 4 bar design makes it super easy to add these in later with minimal revision.
I'm looking at using a mix of 38.9x3mm(1.5"x.12'') and maybe abit of 31.8x3mm (1.25"x.12'') tubing once i calculate an expected weight. once i get abit further along and work out what it will take to fold it I may go up to a scaff tube that is 48.44x4.47(1.9"x.19'') for the main tube cross/down
Whats killing me is the availability of tubing in 6061 and wanting to balance weight vs strength
a quick snapshot of where the file is up to now Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://i68.tinypic.com/24g3nee.jpg Also got to thank the user jacks0n0 he has built a few heavy tandems and offered me some good experience from what he has done in the past with regards to cockpit for the stoker (guy on back) and a few tips like raising the BB for the captain (guy on front) to avoid rock hits.
Alright, here's another one from me. It's a tour-able commuter bike (hence the long stays) with a low top tube (consistent with many of the mountain bikes I've made). The rear dropouts are from a batch that I machined several years ago. I machined most of the parts, including all the bosses. The fork dropouts are 15mm thru-axle dropouts from PMW. The head tube is tall because I ride fairly upright (especially when commuting), and I didn't want a big stack of spacers. Frame is TIG welded.
stunning work as always...i recon you're probably the most pro builder here buy a country mile mate!
i really like the gold pinsrtiping over the brazes from your funky overlapping tubes nice lil touch. those hand-cut fleur-de-le's are pretty awesome too. getting pretty handy with the jewelers files i take it?
Alright, here's another one from me. It's a tour-able commuter bike (hence the long stays) with a low top tube (consistent with many of the mountain bikes I've made). The rear dropouts are from a batch that I machined several years ago. I machined most of the parts, including all the bosses. The fork dropouts are 15mm thru-axle dropouts from PMW. The head tube is tall because I ride fairly upright (especially when commuting), and I didn't want a big stack of spacers. Frame is TIG welded.
stunning work as always...i recon you're probably the most pro builder here buy a country mile mate!
i really like the gold pinsrtiping over the brazes from your funky overlapping tubes nice lil touch. those hand-cut fleur-de-le's are pretty awesome too. getting pretty handy with the jewelers files i take it?
Hey guys, after a long year of hardwork and lots of research, I'm on my final stages of development and will begin prototyping in the near future.
*In the seat tube if you notice there is a gap just wide enough for the shock reservoir to be easily reached from the inside of the front triangle.
The drawings are real size (1:1) Sorry for the potato camera
Edit: Will be manufactured in carbon fiber, wheels are 650b, the chainstay on the rearview picture is cut in half for better understanding and that little mudguard that appears on the Linkage image, will be removable.
I can see the leverage curve but not the leverage ratio values- as a general rule of thumb the maximum difference should be capped at about 10-15% differerence. There are definitely other ways, so don't take that as criticism, I am mostly curious.
Congratulations, the hardwork looks to be paying off. Will you be using a vacuum bag or inflatable bag- or maybe just tape?