Hope Pro 2 Hubs

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Hope Pro 2 Hubs
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Posted: Feb 5, 2010 at 23:10 Quote
themtbr wrote:
Mike-MTB wrote:
justhitit wrote:
are you ordering from a LBS or online?
Online from CRC, because I dont want my LBS to charge me to build my wheel when I can get it built and shipped for free haha.
i dont think hope pro2 come in the 20mm optian

what? there is a hope pro2 20mm hub..

Posted: Feb 5, 2010 at 23:10 Quote
themtbr wrote:
Mike-MTB wrote:
justhitit wrote:
are you ordering from a LBS or online?
Online from CRC, because I dont want my LBS to charge me to build my wheel when I can get it built and shipped for free haha.
i dont think hope pro2 come in the 20mm optian
sorry, just read they do on crc

Posted: Feb 18, 2010 at 15:12 Quote
Hi peeps the DT swiss spoke caculator, is now useless, anyone know the specs on the hope pro 2 hubs F&R.
need to build a set of wheels asap?
Cheers
Darren

Posted: Feb 18, 2010 at 15:15 Quote
hang on will find them for you got them written down somewhere

Posted: Feb 18, 2010 at 15:20 Quote
Front:
Flange Diameter - 56(L) 54(R)
Offset (center-to-flange) - 19.5(L) 34(R)
spoke hole diameter - 2.6
Rear:
Flange Diameter - 56(L) 54(R)
Offset (center-to-flange) - 31.5(L) 20.5(R)
spoke hole diameter - 2.6

that is a 2009 hub don't think anything has changed int he design though

Posted: Feb 18, 2010 at 16:28 Quote
large-ugly-greeny wrote:
Front:
Flange Diameter - 56(L) 54(R)
Offset (center-to-flange) - 19.5(L) 34(R)
spoke hole diameter - 2.6
Rear:
Flange Diameter - 56(L) 54(R)
Offset (center-to-flange) - 31.5(L) 20.5(R)
spoke hole diameter - 2.6

that is a 2009 hub don't think anything has changed int he design though

Thanks alot for the quick post Smile

Posted: Mar 3, 2010 at 5:24 Quote
Just got my new rims back for my FR set of wheels.
i have Hope pro 2 hubs.
I went for the New Syncros FR DS 32 Black Grunge.
looking at the ERD on Syncros site and it says 537mm
so i checked myself using this site as a refrence.
http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/

You need to measure the Effective Rim Diameter (ERD). I recommend that you always measure it yourself and not trust ERD measurements taken from other sources - even rim manufacturers.

Take two spokes cut down to 200mm. Glue on a nipple so that the top of the spoke is flush with the bottom of the slot in the nipple.

Place in opposite holes in the rim and hold taut. Measure between the ends and add 400mm. Average several diameters.

Did this and came up with 527mm 10mm dif Com'On, should i use the website mesurment method or just go with what syncros say???

Posted: Mar 8, 2010 at 13:20 Quote
what are you trying to do exaclty? you lost me reading that one do you want the effective rim diamieter?

Posted: Mar 8, 2010 at 14:23 Quote
large-ugly-greeny wrote:
what are you trying to do exaclty? you lost me reading that one do you want the effective rim diamieter?

Sorry m8 no i took the ERD off syncros website 537mm and after measuring it myself it was 10mm less 327mm than stated on syncros website. just a post to ask peeps what to trust myself of syncros.

wheels are now built and they are 527mm not 537mm as stated on syncros website, and sit nice and flush in the slot. happy Smile

Posted: Apr 20, 2010 at 16:03 Quote
got a question,just got my new wheels wich is a pro 2 and I cant remove the dam cap( where you fill in the cassettes) how do you remove this cap,do you need a special tool or somethin?

Posted: Apr 20, 2010 at 16:45 Quote
unless you are talking about the casset lock ring you shouldn't need to remove any caps or spacers how ever if you are trying to remove the end section of the axle then it is just held in with a rubber o ring to create friction and if given a tug with a mole wrench/pair of pliers will come off
hope that helps and if not stick a picture up of what bit it is and someone will try and answer question

Posted: Apr 20, 2010 at 17:05 Quote
large-ugly-greeny wrote:
unless you are talking about the casset lock ring you shouldn't need to remove any caps or spacers how ever if you are trying to remove the end section of the axle then it is just held in with a rubber o ring to create friction and if given a tug with a mole wrench/pair of pliers will come off
hope that helps and if not stick a picture up of what bit it is and someone will try and answer question
im talking about the cassette lock ring..

Posted: Apr 20, 2010 at 20:45 Quote
i did this a few weeks ago and it was the same as a regular cassette hub. you need a standard cassette tool

Posted: Apr 21, 2010 at 19:29 Quote
majeau wrote:
large-ugly-greeny wrote:
unless you are talking about the casset lock ring you shouldn't need to remove any caps or spacers how ever if you are trying to remove the end section of the axle then it is just held in with a rubber o ring to create friction and if given a tug with a mole wrench/pair of pliers will come off
hope that helps and if not stick a picture up of what bit it is and someone will try and answer question
im talking about the cassette lock ring..
cassette removal tool and a chain whip works best , stick in the tool, hold that with a wrench and wrap the chain around the cassette or use a tuff old rag and turn cassette tool counter clockwise to remove (I think?). You don't neeeed s chain whip but the cassette lockring tool is pretty much nessesary.

Posted: Jan 3, 2011 at 15:28 Quote
hey peeps does anyone know if the 20mm conversion for the bulb front hub will work on my pro2 cheers andy


 
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