Mike's BMX Bike Guide!

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Mike's BMX Bike Guide!
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flag lettusdude
Posted: Jul 21, 2008 at 18:28 Quote
This thread will eventually (I hope) contain everything you will need to know about making an informed decision on your first BMX, as well as other useful info. You can jump to any info you need by pressing ctrl F and typing in what you're looking for. If you have any questions then feel free to P.M me and I will answer them the best I can. Before you PM me however, please please PLEASE Read this entire thread as the answer is most likely in it! Then, and ONLY then can you P.M me. I will ignore all questions that can be solved by a quick google search or looking through this thread.

I tried my best, but if you spot any major spelling/grammar mistakes PM me and I will fix them when I get a chance. Also if you have any useful info to add simply post it up and I will edit it in with credit to you. I'm using a lot of my spare time to give you this info, so I'm praying the useless threads will stop. I will keep updating the bikes and info so check back often.

Just remember to have fun and wear yer' brain bucket. I do!

Mike.

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First off, the best way to get into bmx is with a USED bike. Below are a few things to help you buy used.

1) Look around.
You'll get a much nicer bike for $450 used than a shiny brand new 38 pound piece of junk. If you're set on a new bike, better save up at least 5 hundred(Canadian). Anything less new is not worth the money and will most likely have low end parts on it. Most of us BMXers tend to take care of our bikes(I hope) as they are much simpler to maintain than any MTB.

2) Try before you buy.
Don't simply buy a bike before you ride it or you may get stuck with something you don't like. When buying used always inspect the frame and fork for any damage. Paint chips and scratches don't count as damage. Your bike will get more of those if it's serving its purpose. Keep an eye out for things like bends and dents. If they aren't too bad go for it. If there are any cracks in the frame, I suggest looking else where though. Rims can be re-trued and bearings re-greased, to an extent obviously. If the hubs are completely seized and the wheels are tacod, it's not worth it.

3) Take care of your new girl.
Once you have a bike, remember to check her over when you ride. Tighten up any loose nuts and bolts before AND after a good sesh. Keep her clean and well lubed(WD-40 is not a lube! Never ever EVER use WD-40 to lube your bike....ever!) Try not to leave her out in the rain/snow either. Riding is fine as long as you take the time to dry and lube 'er up good, but it's sitting in the rain for days and days that will make a bike rust.

For more info on any thing to do with BMX, go here or here.

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~BMX Basics~
Chances are you want to do more on your bike than commute, so there's a few things you'll need to know. This will help you to tell the difference between a quality bike, and a toy.

-Parts ReviewThanks to OK Rider) A growing list of reviews on various BMX parts can be found here.

-3 piece cranks:
Cranks are the arms that connect the pedals to the bike and turn your sprocket. Three piece cranks are much stronger than one piece. 3 piece the crank set is in 3 separate parts; 2 arms and a spindle in the middle) One piece cranks are basically a metal rod that is bent in 2 spots making it S shaped. They will usually bend in no time, 3 piece cranks will last you much much longer.

-4130 Cro-mo:
If anything on the bikes specs says “Hi-Ten steel” then stay away. Chromoly(or cromo) is what good frames are made from,specifically 4130 cromo. A full chromo frame will be lighter and stronger than a high ten frame. The same goes for handle bars, and fork. At the very least get a frame with chromo “main tubes”. You can get away with hi ten bars and fork, but it's still better to get cromo.

-Double wall rims:
These rims will last you much longer than cheap single wall rims. Single walled rims are frail and go out of true very easy. The difference between them is what the name implies. Single walls only have one layer on the inside of the rims, this making them dent and bend easily. Double wall rims have an extra "wall" inside them making it stronger and more difficult to destroy. Double walls will last quite a while for a beginner, especially in the front.

-Frame Geometry:
This all comes down to preference, so nothing is set in stone here. The best thing to do is actually test ride the bike to see weather you like it or not. No one is too tall for bmx. That's just an old mountain bikers tale. It may take some time to get used to though. Below are some common abbreviations and their definitions.

TT=Top tube. The length of the tube on top of the frame.
DT=Down tube. The length of the tube on the lower part of the frame.
CS= Chain stays. The length of the tubes on the lower part of the rear triangle.
SS= Seat stays. The length of the tubes on the upper part of the rear triangle.
HT= Head tube angle. The angle of the tube at the front of the bike connecting the TT and DT.

Frame size is usually measured by TT length. I'm 6'1 and ride a 21”TT, but some people who are shorter than me might like a 21.25" TT. As I said before, it's all personal preference. Frame size is usually measured by TT length. The basic Idea is if you're taller, get a longer TT, if you're shorter, get a shorter TT. The kind of riding you'll be doing also makes a difference. For street and park try to go a little shorter. This makes the bike easier to do tricks on. For dirt jumping, aim on the longer side as it's more stable and easier to control in the air. But these are guidelines only. It all comes down to preference.

-Strait cable {this can be debated}:
If you're just starting out there's no need for gyros and other de-tanglers. Unless they are good quality and set up well, they will reduce your braking power drastically. A properly set up gyro can work as well as a strait brake cable, but unless you can do triple bar spins it's not worth it. If the bike you choose does include a detangler, the best thing to do is get an odyssey linear slick cable for $15. This cable is in my opinion(and many others who have used it) the best cable money can buy. Don't worry though, strait cables are still plenty long enough for some bar spinnable action!

-Micro Drive(Thanks to OK Rider for this)
Micro drive is one of the newer trends in BMX. Micro drive is when a bike uses small sprockets and cogs('micro' sized) for the drivetrain. This is done for a few reasons. The biggest reason is that microdrive keeps the sprocket higher from the ground, which helps to prevent damage when dropping into quarter pipes, or grinding on ledges. Microdrive also saves weight, as the sprockets are usually made of lightweight, tough aluminum. They also use less material, and your chain is shorter, which saves weight. To run a Microdrive set up, you'll need a cassette wheel, which will be explained below.

-Cassette Hub(Thanks to OK Rider for this)
A cassette hub is a hub that uses a driver to spin the hub. A driver is similar to the cassette body on a MTB hub. It has teeth on it that mesh with the chain. the other side of the driver contains 3 or 4 pawls which are basically small spring loaded teeth. These teeth bite into grooves on the hub body, and spin the hub/wheel when you pedal forward.
The benefit of a cassette hub is that is allows companies to make drivers with a small amount of teeth. This allows you to have the proper gear ratio, while using a small sprocket. The common Driver sizes are 9, 10, and 11 teeth, with an 8 tooth driver also being available.

-Driver(Thanks to OK Rider for this)
The driver is the toothed part of a cassette hub. They are found in a few different tooth counts, and in a couple materials. The most common driver size is a 10 or 11 tooth, made of Cromoly steel. You can also find drivers in 8 or 9 teeth, as well as ones made of titanium. Different companies use different styles of driver. Be sure to learn which type of driver your cassette hub uses with you want to upgrade it. The most common style is the "Odyssey" style, which uses a circular spring. When purchasing your first bike, your driver shouldn't be a huge concern to you, because generally, drivers last a while and are rarely needed to be upgraded. When they do though, they are relatively inexpensive compared to other parts on your bike.

-Gear Ratios:
The standard gear ratio on any single speed bike is about 55. What does this mean? Well that's the number you want to aim for when using the "Gear Ratio Formula!" If you have the same gear "ratio" is will feel exactly the same, regardless of how "small" it is. It's really not that complex.

The formula is Front teeth / rear teeth x wheel size.
So, since this is a BMX guide, the wheel size is 20.
If you have a 39t sprocket, how many teeth do you need in the rear?
to get this you use the formula. lets try 12t: 39/12x20=65.
Hmm, 65 does not = 55. 65=65. That is not a standard ratio.
Let's try 14t; 39/14x20=55.71. Thats pretty darn close to 55, so thats the standard ratio! You can play around with the numbers to get harder or easier gearing. It's all personal, so go with what you like. 55 is just a guideline.

For those too lazy to learn the formula, I've included a standard BMX gear chart. ALL GEARINGS LISTED FEEL EXACTLY THE SAME! They make no riding difference.

23/8. 25/9. 28/10. 30/11. 33/12. 36/13. 39/14. 42/15. 44/16.


-Bar LengthThanks to fufalump for this)
This one is obvious, bars have width, most come stock fairly long, and are made to be cut down according to preference. While short bars make barspins, xups, and whatnot easier, they give less stability/control, and less leverage for spinning. While longer bars will provide much more control and more leverage for spinning, bar spinning tricks become trickier. This is something to consider after you made the purchase, since most bars come long enough stock, so you can just cut them down to your preferred size using a tube cutter or hacksaw.

-Bar HeightThanks to fufalump for this)
Bars come in many heights as well. There are usually bars from around 7 inches high, to around 8 inches for the standards. A general height for a bar is about 7.25 inches. This is fairly standard, and feels good for most people. Depending on BMX wheel size (20" or 24" mainly), you can be running bars as low a 5". Choosing the correct bar height can be important and have a front end that is too short can potentially cause health-related problems from riding, usually that occurs within the back.

Then there is 7.5-7.75 for a higher bar (referring to 20" bikes). This is generally for taller people, or people who enjoy a higher riding bar, which can also help in relieving back pain if you experience it.

Finally, there are the 8 inch plus rise bars, such as some of the new Sunday bars and the Slam bars. There aren't many bars that exceed 8.5", and are used for fairly tall people, or for a taller feeling bike. However, most bars with this height also are really wide, making this kind of bar not for everyone.

Mentionable Tall Bars: T1 makes a 8.5 inch rise bar, and Odyssey has an 8.25 inch bar in the works.

-Bar SweepThanks to fufalump for this)
Then, what is commonly overlooked is the sweep of a bar. This is the amount of bend backwards (on the handle/grip part of the bar) usually given in degrees. Most bars vary from around 10 degrees of sweep, to about 14 degrees. although this does vary. the more sweep you have, the easier it is on the longer rides, as it gives a more laid back feel to the bar, and is easier on the wrist. this is a preference thing for a bar, so make sure you go to your shop and try a few different sweeps, and see what works best for you.

The sweep of a bar can also refer to the upwards bend. So to ensure what bends in the bar you like, be sure to test out both up sweep and backsweep. Generally, people like a little up sweep, but you can purchase flat bars that have 0 degree sweep.

-Bar Materials: (Thanks to fufalump for this)
Most high quality bars are made from true heat treated chromoly steel. Making a light, yet very strong bar. However, not all bars are created equal. Some lower end bars are made with High-Tensile steel. This is a big no no. This steel is a very heavy alternative, and is nowhere near as strong as regular chromoly. Although you can get away with this material, it isn't recommended.

Also, on a side note there are different techniques to creating strength, and shaving weight on bars. You may hear the term "fluted" bars. More or less this is when the company shaves metal from non stress areas and cuts off grrooves in the walls of the tube to reduce weight while keeping strength. This is something to look for, as it generally means a lighter bar.

However, companys are starting to move away from fluting, and into butting where the company alters the tube thickness throughout the bars, allowing designers to tweak strength, weight, and flex characteristics.

For more info on any thing to do with BMX, go here or here.
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~Useful Links~(Thanks to -Aaron- for the idea and most of the links)
Below are some great links to different BMX related web pages.

1664 BMX Ltd – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.1664bmx.com
Transition BMX – Canadian mail order – www.bmxtransition.com
3Ride – Canadian mail order – www.3ride.com
Albe's BMX – American mail order – www.albes.com
Animal Bike – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.animalbikes.com
Ride BMX – BMX Magazine – www.bmxonline.com
We The People – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.wethepeople.de
Dan's comp – American mail order – www.danscomp.com
Eastern Bikes – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.easternbikes.com
Empire BMX – American mail order – www.empirebmx.com
Etnies BMX – BMX Clothing – www.etniesbmx.com
Fat BMX – Online BMX Magazine – www.fatbmx.com
FBM – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.fbmbmx.colm
Fit Bikes – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.fitbikeco.com
Fly Bike – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.flybikesbmx.com
BMX Forum – BMX forum – www.bmx-forum.com
Bike Guide – BMX Info and Forum – www.bikeguide.org
G Sport – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.gsportbmx.com
Kink Bikes – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.kinkbmx.com
KHE – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.khe-bmx.com
Little Devil – BMX Clothing – www.littledevilbrand.com
Mirra Co – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.mirrabikeco.com
Odyssey – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.odysseybmx.com
SNAFU – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.snafubmx.com
Square One – BMX Clothing – www.squareonebmx.com
Stolen Bikes – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.stolenbmx.com
Volume Bikes – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.volumebikes.com
Dig BMX – BMX magazine – www.digbmx.com
Tree Bike Co – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.treebicycleco.com
Dk Bikes – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.dkbicycles.com
Primo – Bike and/or Bike part manufacture – www.primobmx.com

For more info on any thing to do with BMX, go here or here.

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And now onto the BIKES!!!

DISCLAIMER!!!!
The info I have written is based on what I can say with my experience as a Bmxican. I have NOT tested every one of these bikes out. I'm giving my knowledge on the parts. It's up to YOU to make the final choice on which bike YOU want.
I have decided NOT to include exact bike prices because there are too many factors to consider and I can't guarantee the price of a bike. I have, however given a price range that the bikes should be in. They are listed in Canadian dollars. Some Bike companies list a Manufacturers suggested retail price(MSRP) on their web pages. You can use xe.com to convert currencies, so they are approximate. Keep in mind they may cost a little more depending on your LBS. Usually you can expect to pay a little more than the MSRP in Canada due do boarder duties and things like that. Theres no guarantee that your LBS will be selling the bike for that much. The only sure way to get a bike price is to CALL YOUR LOCAL BIKE SHOP! As well, all bikes are 2007 models unless otherwise stated.
For more info on any thing to do with BMX, go here or here.

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~Bikes NOT to get!~

Important notice: There has been alot of controversy with Haro bikes being on the bad list. When I originally wrote this guide (fall of 06) Haro's bikes weren't really worth the money. Now Haro seems to be stepping up their game and offer higher level completes for a good price. Like most other companies, you'll be safe if you go with the mid to high end range, and not the cheapest models. As well, it should be noted that Redline has some quality after market frames, cranks, etc. They are just lacking a little in the complete department. Again, as with Haro, they seem to be making more quality bikes as of late.

It should also be noted that the high end new 09 Norco BMX bikes are looking pretty good.

The following companies make bmxs that are junk. No questions asked. Don't buy them. They will break. You can get better bikes for the price. These bike do not = good. These bikes = Bad! This is not a list of what to buy. This is a list of what not to buy. Do not buy them!

Do NOT buy them!
Diamond Back=BAD!
Dyno=BAD!
Free Agent= BAD!
G.T= BAD!
Huffy= BAD!
Iron Horse= BAD!
Mongoose= BAD!
Norco= BAD!*
Redline= BAD!*
Schwinn= BAD!

and last, but most important;
Any bike you can buy at Canadian tire/Wal-Mart/Zellers/ any place other than a bike shop = BAD!

.....Bad!

For more info on any thing to do with BMX, go here or here.
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DK Bikes.
DK bikes are good if you're on a budget. There's differing opinions on them, but if you go with a higher end model you should be safe.

~DK Park/Trail Series.~
These are the only two of the Trail/Park Series you should consider. The other ones have cheap components on them.
DK 6pack.
Price range: $400.00 - $600.00 (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20.5"tt, 14.25"cs
Probably the cheapest complete that has a full cromo setup. It has a full cromo frame/fork/bars, as well as a chrome plated rear rim which helps with braking. In order to cut costs though, some parts are a bit weak and might need to be replaced down the road. On a budget this is one of the best completes, but it would be wiser to save up a little more.
DK 4pack
Price range: $600.00 - $800.00 (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20.75"tt, 14.25"cs
This bike is one above the 6pack. This bike is almost 200 dollars more than the 6pack, but you get your moneys worth. Things like the cranks, rims, fork and hubs are all improved. The hubs are sealed bearing as compared to the 6 pack, and it has 33/12 gearing instead of 36/13 to reduce weight. Having a tt that is a bit longer will help with dirt jumping, which is what this bike is more set up for.

~DK Street series.~
Same deal as with the Trail/Park bikes. Only the 2 top end bikes are worth getting.
DK Cleveland.
Price range: $400.00 - $600.00(Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20.5"tt, 14"cs.
This is pretty much the street version of the 6pack. The high psi tires are more suited to street than dirt, as well as the 48 spoke front wheel for strength. The geometry of the frame will help with street, with shorter chain stays than the 6pack, manualing will be easier. Again, this is a good bike for on a budget, but you may find some things need replacing.
DK Dayton.
Price range: $600.00 - $800.00(Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20.75"tt, 14"cs.
This is DKs top of the line complete. The bike is similar to the 4pack, only it's equipped for street. The slick tires go up to 110 psi which makes the bike roll super smooth on concrete. The cranks, hubs, rims, pedals,pretty much everything on this bike is better than on the cleaveland, which is why it costs that much more. Though it is DKs best bike, that doesn't mean it is THE best bike.

~DK Flat-land Series.~
DK Signal
Price range: $400.00 - $600.00 (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 19"tt, 13"cs
If you want a pure flatland bike for cheap, this is the (only) one to get. It's got everything you need to get started in flatland. Super short geo, free coaster, easy gearing, Zero offset fork... She may have one piece cranks, but this bike was meant for flat land, so the one pieces are fine. This is the probably the only flatland specific complete out there that won't break the bank.


For more info on any thing to do with BMX, go here or here.
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Fit Bike Co
Fit bikes have a great reputation with all their bikes and parts. The lower end completes are really not worth looking at. For a complete fit it's best to get a mid to high end complete.

~Fit Pro/Am.~
*Both the 2007 Am and Pro Model frames feature smaller dropouts, shorter rear ends (13.75"), and lower stand over heights. Both bikes now come with 2 pegs, Gyros and Fit tires front and rear. Updated graphics and color combos round out these models.*

These are Fits entry level completes.
Fit Am.
Price range: $400.00 - $600.00 (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20"tt, 13.75"cs.
If you're a short rider, then you may want to look into this bike. It has a short frame as well as short 170mm cranks(standard is 175mm) However, it is NOT a full cromo set up, and only has single wall rims. you're money could be spend better elsewhere. Flip a few more burgers and get yourself something nicer, you deserve it!
Fit Pro.
Price range: $400.00 - $600.00 (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20.5"tt, 13.75"cs.
This is a much better bike than the Fit Am. Although it's not a full 4130 cromo frame, the front triangle is, along with the fork. The wheel set on this bike isn't doing too well though, but still alot better than the Am. It's a decent bike, but not really "Pro" as they put it.

~Fit Team Trail/Park.~
*Both 2007 Team Model frames have been designed lighter and feature: compact dropouts, shorter (13.75") rear ends, lower stand over heights and open ended and embossed gussets. Both 2007 Team Model bikes also feature lighter S3 style stems. In addition to these changes we've added more name brand components to both bikes and updated the graphics and color combos.

These are Fits mid level completes.
Fit Team Trail.
Price range: $600.00 - $800.00 (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20.5"tt, 13.75"cs
The price may seem like alot for what looks like a little kids bike. But now were getting into some quality builds here. The Team Trail comes with some good after market components on it. Odyssey dirtpath tire, Odyssey cable and freewheel, S&M Pedals. This is an excellent bike.
Fit Team Park.
Price range: $600.00 - $800.00 (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20.5"tt, 13.75"cs.
This is a great street bike. It's pretty much the same set up as the Team Trail, only it's set up to ride street/park. Things like shorter handle bars, smooth tires, and a gyro and pegs all turn it into a street ready machine. The short chainstays will definetaly help with manuals as well.

~Fit Flow Series.~
*All 2007 Flow Series frames have been designed lighter than ever and feature: S3 style S-bend chainstays, compact dropouts, shorter (13.75") rear ends, lower stand over heights and open ended and embossed gussets. All 2007 Flow Series front ends feature stronger CNC machined 1 piece steerer tubes on the fork and lighter S3 style stems. In addition to these great changes we've added more name brand components from Odyssey, Sun Rims, SNAFU, Animal, Fly Bikes, and S&M. Visually we've updated the graphics and color combos to keep up with riders constantly evolving tastes.*

Fits pimpin' Flow Series, pricey, but pimpin'.
Fit Flow Park.
Price range: $800.00 and up (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20.75"tt, 13.75"cs.
This bike is set up to be an all around, ride what ever rig. It meets you half way between the Flow Trail, and Flow Park completes. The front Ruben tires is 2.25" wide, and has plenty of grip to stay on coarse at the trails. In the rear is a high psi Animal tire, which will survive even the worst hang ups on the sub box gap. This model also includes 2 Fit pegs so you can get your grind on without worry.

Fit Flow Trail.
Price range: $800.00 and up. (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20.75"tt, 13.75"cs.
If you see your self one day doing no foot cans and superman seat grabs, then the flow trail is for you. Ready to hit the trails, this bike comes with wider and taller bars than the other Flow bikes for more stability at the jumps. It comes stock with an odyssey liner slick cable, probably the best brake cable out there. The tires are nice and aggressive, even for some neglected jumps. But the slim dirt path in the rear still means you can mess around on the street.
Fit Flow Street.
Price range: $800.00 and up. (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20.75"tt, 13.75"cs
If you get the Flow Street, you'd better not be too fond of brakes or dirt, because this bike will see neither. This is a bike that was meant to GO, not stop! The frame has no brake mounts, so if you decide you want brakes later on, too bad. It comes stock with Animal ASM tires, which have a max psi of 110 and no grip. With smaller bars, 4 pegs, fast rolling tires, and NO BRAKES, you'll be plowing over skaters and little children in no time!

For more info on any thing to do with BMX, go here or here.
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We The People.
We the people is a newer rider owned company with a solid reputation and good warranty. They do have some sketch completes though. Both the Bold and Nova are cheap bikes with a good name on them. High-ten steel=BAD. If you want a quality complete you need to save your nickles and dimes.

WTP Addict
Price range: $400.00 - $600.00 (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20.5"tt
This may be the lightest bike in this price range, weighing in at 28.34 lbs(12.85 kg) without pegs, it's sure to please all you Sally's complaining about a 32lb bike. The frame and fork are 4130 cromo so they should last. I have however heard of the stock "salt" brand components on the bike having reliability issues, mainly the hubs. I can not say first hand though. This is still a great beginers bike for the price regardless.

WTP Beyond.
Price range: $600.00 - $800.00 (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20.5"tt
The Beyond is alot like the Addict. It's a sturdy frame with "salt" brand components. Again, I can't say first hand how good salt parts are, but there seems to be a few issues. What sets the Beyond appart from the Addict are small upgrades like the rims and tires, as well as being somewhat stronger and a tad bit lighter.

WTP 4 Seasons
Price range: $800.00 and up. (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20.5"tt
The 4 seasons is deffinetly a better bike than the Addict or Beyond. You won't regret spending that little extra for it. They've done away with most of the Salt components, although a few still remain. The 4 seasons is up there with the pricey completes, but I guarantee you'll like what you get.

WTP Phoenix Pro.
Price range: $800.00 and up. (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 20.6"tt, 13.8"cs.
This frame alone is around 3 to 4 hundred dollars new! The phoenix pro is pretty much a custom bike you can get complete for less than cash than it costs to build the same frame up from scratch. It does have great parts on it, but with this frame you could eventually upgrade to something more deserving of the frame.

WTP Metric Flat
Price range: $600.00 - $800.00 (Call your LBS.)
Geo: 18.9"tt.
For the more experienced flatlander, or a beginner who wants something that will last a bit longer, theres the Metric Flat. Unlike the DK Signal, the Metric is lighter, stronger, and with over all better components for flatland. It does take a bigger blow out of your wallet though. If you know 100% you're going to stick with flatland, then the Metric is a great choice.


For more info on any thing to do with BMX, go here or here.

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Eastern Bikes
If eastern is known for one thing, it's building light bikes! The bottom line models are junk to be honest though. Eastern has alot of innovative ideas for their parts and frames to reduce weight in order to keep the whining weight weenies satisfied. Things like machining holes in certain areas of the frames...

Eastern Shovelhead.
Price range: $400.00 - $600.00 (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.5"tt.
S.H is Easterns low budget dirt jumper. The main down side to saving some cash on this one is the rear triangle is not cromo like the rest of the frame. As well, the wheels are not the greatest. It does include pegs so you aren't doomed to dirt.

Eastern Metalhead.
Price range: $400.00 - $600.00 (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.5"tt.
The M.H is almost exactly the same as the S.H. It is simply more street oriented with smoother tires and front brakes for some old school fun. It does weigh a tad more than the S.H, but not much.

Easter Element.
Price range: $400.00 - $600.00 (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.75"tt.
Yay! Full cromo goodness! The frame is a bit longer at 20.75 for more comfort and stability in the air. the frame is modernized with a Spanish BB and an integrated headset to make things that much easier for you.

Eastern Sequence.
Price range: $400.00 - $600.00 (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.5"tt.
More full cromo goodness! The components are similar to the Element, but it's more street friendly with a shorter TT, smoother tires, and a front brake to goof around with. A pretty solid bike for the price.


Eastern Jane.
Price range: $500.00 - $700.00 (Call your LBS)
Geo: 21"tt.
Shorter riders might not like this bike due to its 21" frame. But it does have solid components and a nice set up for street and dirt. The frame has removable gyro tabs if you ever want a strait cable.

Eastern Ace of Spades.
Price range: $500.00 - $700.00 (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.5"tt.
The Ace of Spades is alot like the Jane, only with a 20.5"tt instead of 21". Other than that theres not much difference between the two. Both the Jane and AOS have a chrome plated rear rim to improve brake power, as well as the Eastern Atom fork.

Eastern Ace of Spades Pro.
Price range: $800.00 + (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.5"tt.
This is Easterns top notch bike and is a thing of beauty. They really go all out on reducing weight. Even so much as to include a 32h front wheel, but that doesn't mean the bike is brittle in anyway. With forged alloy cranks and the eastern ultralight fork, the bike should last quite some time

For more info on any thing to do with BMX, go here or here.

___________________________________________________________________

MirraCo.
MirraCo is a brand new company that already has some solid bikes out. Once Dave Mirra left Haro last year he started his own company. At first people were skeptical that his bikes would be good. Rest assured, the Black Pearl and Blend serries are worth your dollar.
Update: It seems there was a product recall issued by Mirraco. Turns out some of the fork's were not made so well, and have been recalled. If you have purchased a Mirraco bike, you can find out more info on the recall here.

~Black Pearl~

B.P-1
Price range: $400.00 - $600.00 (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.5"tt
Like all of Daves signature bikes, this one comes with left hand drive. Every other complete on the market comes with the drive train on the right, but LHD will save your chain and sprocket if you grind right. The bike has solid components and rims, but are black, so braking may suffer.

B.P-2
Price range: $400.00 - $600.00 (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.8"tt


B.P-3
Price range: $550.00 - $750.00 (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.8"tt
Higher price tag means higher end parts. The B.P-3 boasts a diatech magic brake and a mid bb. The frame also has a heat treated head tube so you can nose case with piece of mind...

B.P-Ltd.
Price range: $1200+ (call your LBS)
Geo: 20.8"tt.
"You want to spend HOW much on a bike?!?!?!?"Is probably the reaction you'll get from your parents when you opt to buy a kids bike that costs more than some used cars. This bike ain't no kids bike though. It has a three figure price tag for a good reason. This bike is for serious committed riders only. Don't drop the cash if your just starting out and aren't sure if you'll stay with bmx.


~Blend~

Blend 1
Price range: $400.00 - $600.00 (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.5"tt
The blend series come with right hand drive for the "normal" people who grind left. Other than that they are fairly similar to the black pearl series other than the odd tweak here and there.

Blend 2
Price range: $400.00 - $600.00 (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.75"tt
A step up from the blend. Included the upgrades you'd expect for the extra paper like a chrome rim and a Euro bb. The frame is also longer than it's brother, at a strange 20.8"tt...

Blend 3
Price range: $550.00 - $750.00 (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.75"tt
The first of the blend serries to have a chrome plates rim for improved braking ability, as well as some no nonesense magic brakes for great stopping ability. Heat treated headtube, sealed internal hs, and mid bb set the frame apart from the others.

Blend Ltd
Price range: $1200 + (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.5"tt
Again. Waaay more expensive than any other complete on the market! The ltd bikes are pretty much flooded with high end parts you would have to buy separate and build a custom bike. They are pretty much custom builds that come complete. Hence the mad cash needed...

For more info on any thing to do with BMX, go here or here.

___________________________________________________________________

Felt Bikes.
{Description coming soon.}

~Felt Dirt Serries.~

Pyre
Price range: Coming soon. (Call your LBS)
Geo: 21"tt
{Description coming soon.}

Fuse
Price range: Coming soon. (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.5"tt
{Description coming soon.}

~Felt Street Serries.~

Chronic
Price range: Coming soon. (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.55"tt
This way this bike is set up is very very unpopular, and I personally love it. It comes stock with four pegs, a front brake, and a gyro. It is literally a do all, go anywhere kind of bike that has sadly faded away. It might be "heavy" by todays standards at just shy of 33lbs but it comes loaded with all kinds of goodies like a full odyssey brake set up, alex rims, and high psi tires.

Manic
Price range: Coming soon. (Call your LBS)
Geo: 20.55"tt
[This bike is pretty much the same as the Chronic just with some down grades such as brakes. Still a great bike for the rider who wants to ride it all, be it big dirt jumps, flowing the park, tech street lines, or even a bit of basic flatland. This bike is set up for all kinds of riding.

For more info on any thing to do with BMX, go here or here.


___________________________________________________________________
Hoffman Bikes.

Hey, just cause Mat Hoffman sold out and has his own line of video game serries, doesn't mean his bikes are crap! Sure they have some low end junkers, but so does Fit, Mirraco, We The People, Eastern, DK...get the point? But they also offer a solid steel horse, and Hoffman is no exception.


~Rhythm Series.~
Anything below the EL 2 is not lookin' so hot...

Rhythm El 2
Price range: $450.00 - $650.00 (Call your LBS)
Geo: HT:74.5" | ST:70" | TT:20" | CS:14" | BB:11.375"
{Description coming soon.}

Rhythm Il 1
Price range: Coming soon(Call your LBS)
Geo: HT:74.5" | ST:70" | TT:21" | CS:14" | BB:11.375"
{Description coming soon.}

Rhythm PL1
Price range: Coming soon.(Call your LBS.)
Geo: HT:74.5" | ST:70" | TT:21" | CS:14" | BB:11.375"
{Description coming soon.}

~Distributor Series.~
Again, anything below the EL2 not gonna ride too well.

Distributor EL2
Price range: $450.00 - $650.00(Call your LBS.)
Geo: HT:74" | ST:71" | TT:20" | CS:14" | BB:11.5"
{Description coming soon.}

Distributor IL1.
Price range: Coming soon.(Call your LBS.)
Geo: HT:74" | ST:71" | TT:20.5" | CS:14" | BB:11.5"
{Description coming soon.}

Distributor PL1.
Price range: Coming soon.(Call your LBS.)
Geo: HT:74" | ST:71" | TT:20.5" | CS:14" | BB:11.5"
{Description coming soon}


~Condor Series.~

Theres two bikes, one of them crap, one of them really solid.

Condor PL1
Price range: Coming soon.(Call your LBS.)
Geo: HT:74" | ST:70" | TT:20.25” | CS:14” | BB:11.18”
{Description coming soon.}

For more info on any thing to do with BMX, go here or here.

___________________________________________________________________
Volume Bikes.

Volume is more focussed on the more advanced rider and mainly deals with after market parts such as frames and fork. But they do make a complete bike that is worth a look

Volume Black Sheep
Price range: Coming soon.(Call your LBS.)
Geo: TT:20.5” | CS:14.5”
For the price you're paying this is a really good complete with a full cromo frame, fork, and bars. The only down side is the single wall rims which wont take too much heavy abuse. Other than the rims it's a solid bike.

For more info on any thing to do with BMX, go here or here.
===================================================
BE PATIENT!!! I WILL add more bikes and info!
flag lettusdude
Posted: Jul 21, 2008 at 18:29 Quote
Arge! What the hell! It's all squished together!
flag warrior1
Posted: Jul 21, 2008 at 18:43 Quote
Here's the fresh thread as everyone can see.
Hopefully we'll get some updates on the info.
flag lettusdude
Posted: Jul 21, 2008 at 18:46 Quote
Thanks for fixing it. I appreciate it.
flag pdurand
Posted: Jul 21, 2008 at 20:54 Quote
hey are federal hamiltons good frames ???
flag
Posted: Jul 21, 2008 at 23:13 Quote
yay its up again Razz
flag pdee
Posted: Jul 23, 2008 at 20:09 Quote
is the Hoffman Mantra AL decent enough for a first bmx?
flag TheBigTuna14
Posted: Jul 24, 2008 at 13:12 Quote
905west wrote:
is the Hoffman Mantra AL decent enough for a first bmx?
it's ok...there's bikes twice as good for the same price. Try to get a kink, eastern, we the people, fit, Subrosa, stolen, premium, or colony. those are the best brands. I personally chose a fit for $500. but I wish I wouldve saved a few more pennies to get the kink apex, only 23 pounds, probably the best complete out there.
flag pdee
Posted: Jul 24, 2008 at 13:19 Quote
TheBigTuna14 wrote:
905west wrote:
is the Hoffman Mantra AL decent enough for a first bmx?
it's ok...there's bikes twice as good for the same price. Try to get a kink, eastern, we the people, fit, Subrosa, stolen, premium, or colony. those are the best brands. I personally chose a fit for $500. but I wish I wouldve saved a few more pennies to get the kink apex, only 23 pounds, probably the best complete out there.

well i kinda dont have a job right now, so i dont really have anywhere to get a big extra wad of cash from.
flag TheBigTuna14
Posted: Jul 24, 2008 at 14:02 Quote
905west wrote:
TheBigTuna14 wrote:
905west wrote:
is the Hoffman Mantra AL decent enough for a first bmx?
it's ok...there's bikes twice as good for the same price. Try to get a kink, eastern, we the people, fit, Subrosa, stolen, premium, or colony. those are the best brands. I personally chose a fit for $500. but I wish I wouldve saved a few more pennies to get the kink apex, only 23 pounds, probably the best complete out there.

well i kinda dont have a job right now, so i dont really have anywhere to get a big extra wad of cash from.
yea, same here. are you going to be riding dirt, park, street, or flatland?
flag pdee
Posted: Jul 24, 2008 at 14:30 Quote
all but flatland, and i cant even 180 on my mtb yet, so i dont know if i need a crazy ass bike. it doesnt have to be light, cuz if i learn stuff now, then lighten it up, i'll be able to do more. theres not much to lighten on a kink apex besides taking the brakes off.and i dont like super light bikes.
flag TheBigTuna14
Posted: Jul 24, 2008 at 15:02 Quote
905west wrote:
all but flatland, and i cant even 180 on my mtb yet, so i dont know if i need a crazy ass bike. it doesnt have to be light, cuz if i learn stuff now, then lighten it up, i'll be able to do more. theres not much to lighten on a kink apex besides taking the brakes off.and i dont like super light bikes.
I'm a noob too, I can't 180 a bmx yet, but I'm close. if I were u, I would go with the kink transition. cheaper than the mantra and better.
flag psychoballer93
Posted: Jul 24, 2008 at 20:39 Quote
Haro is not a bad bike?!?... I've had my Haro F2 for about 3 years now!!... the only things i've ever changed where the grips... if you take care of your bike it will last for ever... I clean and oil mine every month or so and it looks and rides like new
flag bmxing12
Posted: Jul 27, 2008 at 16:11 Quote
im buyin my first bmx its a 20.5 Macniel Miron and the parts are
-Macneil Tall Bars (black)
-Standard Forks (black)
-Specialized Stem (black)
-Kink Stem Fittings (inside, chrome)
-1664 back wheel hub with Alex Super J (black, chrome)
-Odyssey Driver 16t (black)
-Fly Bikes 32t sprocket
-Primo Powerbite Cranks (note: one arm black, one arm chrome)
-Primo Seatclamp (black)
-WeThePeople 'pro seat' (black)
-Snafu Pedals (beige)
-Araya front wheel set (chrome)
-Diatech Brake (rear, black)

is it a good bike and can u guys predict how much it weighs aslo i test the bike and the bars felt weird is that a problem or is it a easy fix?
flag justin99
Posted: Jul 27, 2008 at 19:46 Quote
bmxing12 wrote:
im buyin my first bmx its a 20.5 Macniel Miron and the parts are
-Macneil Tall Bars (black)
-Standard Forks (black)
-Specialized Stem (black)
-Kink Stem Fittings (inside, chrome)
-1664 back wheel hub with Alex Super J (black, chrome)
-Odyssey Driver 16t (black)
-Fly Bikes 32t sprocket
-Primo Powerbite Cranks (note: one arm black, one arm chrome)
-Primo Seatclamp (black)
-WeThePeople 'pro seat' (black)
-Snafu Pedals (beige)
-Araya front wheel set (chrome)
-Diatech Brake (rear, black)

is it a good bike and can u guys predict how much it weighs aslo i test the bike and the bars felt weird is that a problem or is it a easy fix?
New or different bars just take getting used to. If I was you I'd put your money towards something else because the bike sounds like it's a few years old and 32-16 is a very odd gear ratio.
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