As a start, i just purchased some golden spectro 125/150 oil. I'll take it apart and clean everything and then degrease, hopefully i won't have to change seals. But if i have to, would it the be possible to use my old set of seals, there's nothing wrong with them, only change because i wanted to try the SKF seals.
As a start, i just purchased some golden spectro 125/150 oil. I'll take it apart and clean everything and then degrease, hopefully i won't have to change seals. But if i have to, would it the be possible to use my old set of seals, there's nothing wrong with them, only change because i wanted to try the SKF seals.
Yes your old seal would be better to use as the skf seals are swelled. Just make sure it actually is bad seals, you'll notice it very easily if there is too much stiction when you take the fork apart.
I've worked on my truck, car and MX bike suspensions. For the MTB suspension fork, is it important to grease the slide bushings in the lowers, even though oil is added to the lowers? If yes, what is a good grease that does not wash out with oil, as well as not having a negative effect with the fork oil?
I've worked on my truck, car and MX bike suspensions. For the MTB suspension fork, is it important to grease the slide bushings in the lowers, even though oil is added to the lowers? If yes, what is a good grease that does not wash out with oil, as well as not having a negative effect with the fork oil?
depending on the fork. Use rockshox grease or slickolium I think it's called. Just a thin film is all u need.
I have Sun Tour Slick Honey. I've used that inside the lowers oil seals on every fork I have. Using Push seals on this fork, RS Sektor UT coil 2011-2012
Wont using grease only have an issue of migrating out of the dynamic area after so much use, causing a need to remove the lowers more often to grease the bushings, seals, rebound damper rod and stanchions?
I have Sun Tour Slick Honey. I've used that inside the lowers oil seals on every fork I have. Using Push seals on this fork, RS Sektor UT coil 2011-2012
Wont using grease only have an issue of migrating out of the dynamic area after so much use, causing a need to remove the lowers more often to grease the bushings, seals, rebound damper rod and stanchions?
Its more dirt contamination that's the problem than anything. I never used grease on my fox forks but on rockshox, always.
grease on Fox works much better, the finish on the stanchions is too slick and the bushes to tight (compared to other brands) so the oil is not sticking to it too much, Fox is famous for being a bit sticky anyway
can't wait to open up my X-Fusion Vengeance, still working great since i got it but i bet it would feel even nicer after Slick Honey and SKF treatment
grease on Fox works much better, the finish on the stanchions is too slick and the bushes to tight (compared to other brands) so the oil is not sticking to it too much, Fox is famous for being a bit sticky anyway
can't wait to open up my X-Fusion Vengeance, still working great since i got it but i bet it would feel even nicer after Slick Honey and SKF treatment
I always stored my bike verticle or upside down and my fox's always feel good haha
grease on Fox works much better, the finish on the stanchions is too slick and the bushes to tight (compared to other brands) so the oil is not sticking to it too much, Fox is famous for being a bit sticky anyway
can't wait to open up my X-Fusion Vengeance, still working great since i got it but i bet it would feel even nicer after Slick Honey and SKF treatment
I always stored my bike verticle or upside down and my fox's always feel good haha
I store my bike upside-down as well. Otherwise, if the bike sits right side up for a few days without use most of the oil will have migrated to the bottom of the lower. You'll then need to tip your bike up and cycle the fork with your hand to coat the bushings. Storing it upside-down will ensure the oil bushings are always wet and that the oil will migrate down over the bushings when put in the upright position before a ride.
Picking up a tube of PM600 tomorrow. Also need to have the mech take a look at the CSA and lowers, gutted, and see if he can think of were this feeling in the movement might be coming from.
PM600 for bushings and 15wt Motorex for bath, it is!
I guess I need to ask; can the poly-metal bushings move during a full tear-down servicing?
Any DIY peeps out there? I'm wanting to ramp up my Pike, but I find it hard to spend $20 for bottomless tokens. Anyone tried homemade volume adjusters?
Any DIY peeps out there? I'm wanting to ramp up my Pike, but I find it hard to spend $20 for bottomless tokens. Anyone tried homemade volume adjusters?
Nope, but they should be a piece of piss to make. all they have to do is take up space, and not go anywhere they shouldnt. You could literally just drop a bouncy ball in there and be done with it, although I would suggest finding some way of securing it to the underside of the top cap, as bottomless tokens do.