My Wheel Building Guide

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My Wheel Building Guide
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Posted: Dec 10, 2014 at 9:02 Quote
Yeah, I think I will give anti seize a try given my bad experience with linseed oil, especially because I also ride in all types of conditions.

Do you have any prefered brand/type stymiecat or would any antiseize do the job equally in terms of durability, efficiency etc. if I may ask?

Posted: Dec 10, 2014 at 9:15 Quote
Barkit wrote:
Yeah, I think I will give anti seize a try given my bad experience with linseed oil, especially because I also ride in all types of conditions.

Do you have any prefered brand/type stymiecat or would any antiseize do the job equally in terms of durability, efficiency etc. if I may ask?

No, typically they should be pretty much all the same.

Posted: Dec 10, 2014 at 9:55 Quote
Linseed oil does not turn to crust when it dries, it turns to gel, which is why it makes a good spoke thread lubricant.

Like I said, the master mechanics at United Bicycle Institute taught me to use linseed oil, and I have been using it on ever wheel build for both myself and for customers.

I'm not saying you need to use it because it's the best and nothing else will work, but it has worked well for me so far.

Posted: Dec 10, 2014 at 9:56 Quote
seraph wrote:
Linseed oil does not turn to crust when it dries, it turns to gel, which is why it makes a good spoke thread lubricant.

Like I said, the master mechanics at United Bicycle Institute taught me to use linseed oil, and I have been using it on ever wheel build for both myself and for customers.

I'm not saying you need to use it because it's the best and nothing else will work, but it has worked well for me so far.
This, I've has better luck with linseed oil then any other spoke prep including the DT swiss stuff.

Posted: Dec 10, 2014 at 12:58 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
seraph wrote:
Linseed oil does not turn to crust when it dries, it turns to gel, which is why it makes a good spoke thread lubricant.

Like I said, the master mechanics at United Bicycle Institute taught me to use linseed oil, and I have been using it on ever wheel build for both myself and for customers.

I'm not saying you need to use it because it's the best and nothing else will work, but it has worked well for me so far.
This, I've has better luck with linseed oil then any other spoke prep including the DT swiss stuff.


Everyone has a preference and uses what they feel does the best job. there is really no right or wrong on this.

Posted: Dec 10, 2014 at 13:10 Quote
Whatever you do, don't use pro lock nipples....

Posted: Dec 10, 2014 at 13:18 Quote
I've had good luck with Pro Lock nipples when I have to use them, such as on Bontrager wheels. Just don't use them with any sort of spoke prep, or the nipples will never turn again.

Posted: Dec 10, 2014 at 13:20 Quote
Had a customer who was insistent on using them, don't know if he supplied dodgy nipples but f*ck me did they lock quick...

Posted: Dec 10, 2014 at 13:21 Quote
They're basically nylock nipples. They shouldn't "lock" on their own.

Posted: Dec 10, 2014 at 13:23 Quote
I know, I'm pretty sure they were dodgy cos I've used official DT ones and they were fine but these were a whole different kettle of fish.

Posted: Dec 10, 2014 at 16:41 Quote
I remeber a few years ago restoring an 1890's set of wooden rims. Instead of being like everyone eles and use new, the client wanted to use the original spokes and nipples. The amount of dried and caked on glue from the old tubulars and what ever they used was hell to undo all the spokes. I remember having to clean out each nipple with the flame of a candle and then letting them soak in solvent for like almost a week...lol.

Posted: Dec 16, 2014 at 21:21 Quote
Hey guys, first-timer here. This is an awesome thread, lots of wisdom here.

Assuming I've got all my calculations/measurements correct, I got the following spoke lengths for my front hub:

274mm NDS
275mm DS

My LBS only carries 274mm and 276mm DT Competition spokes. What is the tolerance on these things and how do I go about the 1mm difference on the drive-side spokes? I tried Googling and from what I could understand, it is better to round down (i.e. 275mm to 274mm) because rounding up to a 276mm spoke would "bottom out" the nipple. In this case, I plan on recycling my 12mm nipples on my stock wheelset.

Thanks for your input!

In case you're curious:

Rim: WTB ST i23 27.5in/650b
- 565mm ERD

Hub: Front hub, Shimano Saint HB-M820:

-OLD: 110mm
-Left Center to Flange: 22.5mm
-Right Center to Flange: 34mm
-Flange Diameter: 50mm
-2.5mm Spoke Hole
-32H
- Pattern: Three-cross

Posted: Dec 17, 2014 at 7:44 Quote
spyder93090 wrote:
.... What is the tolerance on these things and how do I go about the 1mm difference on the drive-side spokes?....

given your situation with the var being that tight, just use the 274s all around and you should be fine. 1mm var is fine in almost every case in my experience. Rounding up by 2mm will be a mess. I love those spokes.

Posted: Dec 17, 2014 at 13:28 Quote
neex wrote:
spyder93090 wrote:
.... What is the tolerance on these things and how do I go about the 1mm difference on the drive-side spokes?....

given your situation with the var being that tight, just use the 274s all around and you should be fine. 1mm var is fine in almost every case in my experience. Rounding up by 2mm will be a mess. I love those spokes.

That's the consensus I got from what I was reading, just want to make sure. Thank you!

Posted: Jan 28, 2015 at 16:05 Quote
Has anyone used Cycle Wheels USA for a custom wheel build?


 


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