Bike Painting Guides and Pictures of Your Work

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Bike Painting Guides and Pictures of Your Work
Author Message
flag Thepureface
Posted: Mar 7, 2016 at 20:10 Quote
Cable74 wrote:
so get the coat off, paint over old paint then re apply the coat?


you just want to scuff it up with like 600 grit scotch brite pad to take the gloss off. Once it's scuffed you can paint the area that's been scuffed.


Then depending on if you scuff the entire helmet or just a small area you can either blend the clear coat in, or re clear the entire helmet.

If I was you I would probably ask an automotive body repair shop how much to clear the helmet?

I bet they'd charge you like 20$

The reason I'd get them to do it is the stuff they use will be better quality then spray paint clear coat and clear coat spray paint is a lot stronger fumes than regular spray paint. I hate breathing fumes and shit , which is another reason I'd let them clear it.

Also. Instead of painting letters on you know you could always put stickers on then clear coat over top of the stickers.
Personally would use stickers because I'm horrible at writing my own name let alone painting letters lol
flag Cable74
Posted: Mar 7, 2016 at 21:13 Quote
true true, i guess ill just order some stickers lol. only difference is sticker can be peeled. which is a pro and con at the same time. Thanks for the help!!
flag USMC
Posted: Mar 8, 2016 at 5:26 Quote
You can't blend clear also you can get 2k clear in a can. The local paint supplier that I get my paints from sell clear in a rattle can. You press a red button on the can to add in the hardner. The only complaint I have had with this type of process is it does orange peel quite a bit. The spay is not nearly as good as it can be from a traditional gun.
flag Thepureface
Posted: Mar 9, 2016 at 17:26 Quote
USMC wrote:
You can't blend clear also you can get 2k clear in a can. The local paint supplier that I get my paints from sell clear in a rattle can. You press a red button on the can to add in the hardner. The only complaint I have had with this type of process is it does orange peel quite a bit. The spay is not nearly as good as it can be from a traditional gun.

Ooh I didn't know that about clear.
I'm no real painter,but that 2k clear in a cab sounds neat too bad it doesn't work all that well.


Cable74 the stickers shouldn't be able to be picked off once you clear coat over them. You would have to dig through the clear coat with a knife or something. Or a crash, but at that point it might be time for a new one .
flag DavidMatthew
Posted: Mar 10, 2016 at 12:40 Quote
The other "bad thing" about painting over old paint is the unless you painted it yourself and KNOW what paint you used, there might be a chemical conflict of the types of paint. YOU DONT WANT IT BUBLE IF FLAKE OFF, if it's not compatible.

I would personally try to strip the old paint as my first choice.

Having said that... A scotchbright works great. Grey or brown work the best. Do not use the green pad because it's not rough enough. It the surface isn't "flat" use real sand paper (400 -600 grit) and a sanding block (or you can wrap it around a paint stick if you are working a small area.

And yes. The clear coat will fill in the scratches of that grit.

I hope this helps
----
Oh and thanks everyone for the props on my paintwork on my GT-LTS.
flag juzam888
Posted: Mar 28, 2016 at 16:40 Quote
this guys are good in their field.....nice talent
flag Rambo1501
Posted: Mar 28, 2016 at 16:42 Quote
Anyone have experience with wrapping a fork?
I'd like to colour my fork red or black, and I don't want to paint it.
Normally I'd consider plastidip an option but given I ride a lot of park and dj, I feel it will get ripped off and ruined quickly.

Any idea's?
flag Thepureface
Posted: Mar 28, 2016 at 19:54 Quote
Rambo1501 wrote:
Anyone have experience with wrapping a fork?
I'd like to colour my fork red or black, and I don't want to paint it.
Normally I'd consider plastidip an option but given I ride a lot of park and dj, I feel it will get ripped off and ruined quickly.

Any idea's?

Single crown fork? Good luck. It will be a bitch, better off paying someone to wrap it.

Dual crown. Pull it apart. Should be easy unless your doing the crowns.

Why are you against painting it? Powdercoating is the best. Only downside is having to buy new seals, but if you time it with a fork service it's no big deal
flag projectCustoms
Posted: Mar 29, 2016 at 10:09 Quote
Thepureface wrote:
Rambo1501 wrote:
Anyone have experience with wrapping a fork?
I'd like to colour my fork red or black, and I don't want to paint it.
Normally I'd consider plastidip an option but given I ride a lot of park and dj, I feel it will get ripped off and ruined quickly.

Any idea's?

Single crown fork? Good luck. It will be a bitch, better off paying someone to wrap it.

Dual crown. Pull it apart. Should be easy unless your doing the crowns.

Why are you against painting it? Powdercoating is the best. Only downside is having to buy new seals, but if you time it with a fork service it's no big deal

paint is your only real option. and as said whats the reason why you dont want to paint them? i would strongly advise against powder coating as you will need to remove all lower seals and bushings and have them re-sized afterwards as the heat from the oven will change the size of the lowers very slightly. also you not be able to powder coat magnesium or magnesium alloy lowers as they will melt.
flag Thepureface
Posted: Mar 30, 2016 at 16:14 Quote
projectCustoms wrote:
Thepureface wrote:
Rambo1501 wrote:
Anyone have experience with wrapping a fork?
I'd like to colour my fork red or black, and I don't want to paint it.
Normally I'd consider plastidip an option but given I ride a lot of park and dj, I feel it will get ripped off and ruined quickly.

Any idea's?

Single crown fork? Good luck. It will be a bitch, better off paying someone to wrap it.

Dual crown. Pull it apart. Should be easy unless your doing the crowns.

Why are you against painting it? Powdercoating is the best. Only downside is having to buy new seals, but if you time it with a fork service it's no big deal

paint is your only real option. and as said whats the reason why you dont want to paint them? i would strongly advise against powder coating as you will need to remove all lower seals and bushings and have them re-sized afterwards as the heat from the oven will change the size of the lowers very slightly. also you not be able to powder coat magnesium or magnesium alloy lowers as they will melt.


You shouldn't have to replace the bushings. And magnesium will not melt from being powdercoated... Every fork comes from the factory powdercoated so

rebuilt my hooker brake lines need trimmed still

Here's my bike all powdercoated shocker green over top a white base.

Never had any problems with bushings or lowers being melted.
flag EvilToad
Posted: Apr 8, 2016 at 0:03 Quote
My refurbished 2013 Intense Tracer 275. I bought the frame used on here, taped off downtube and top of rear triangle. Scuffed the clear coat with red scotchbrite. Wiped it down. Went to town with a paint pen, did some old fashioned freehand lettered the sizing on , then applied variegated gold leaf, then pinstriped outline, which I haven't done in 15 years. Clear coated with Max 2K Clear coat which is a 2 part spry in a rattle can. Cures glass hard!
Also did a custom badge by masking with vinyl decal cutout on aluminum plate, etched with copper electronic board etching acid (Radio Shack), then painted and sanded raised area, Max 2K clear coated and done.
next bike i will use a the whole frame as a canvas. This was a test to see how good that Max 2K clear coat is. It's SOLID. Custom painters use it for gas tank on motorcycles. Cures glass hard and glossy.
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flag Thepureface
Posted: Apr 8, 2016 at 9:08 Quote
That's very nice, although I can't read the orange writing
flag EvilToad
Posted: Apr 8, 2016 at 11:58 Quote
Thepureface wrote:
That's very nice, although I can't read the orange writing
Thanks. it says Notorious on one side, and Evilous Toad on the other. Nickname given to me for years.
I kept it kind of cryptic grundge as I haven't done this in over 15 years, a bit rusty, not so clean, so I wanted to make it where I can hide my flaws. LOL!
flag pimpin-gimp
Posted: Apr 8, 2016 at 12:18 Quote
I can't read plenty of scroll work or freehand lettering, but it still looks bloody awesome.

Also I knew it said Notorious and Evilous Toad, I just didn't know way Evilous was!
flag Thepureface
Posted: Apr 8, 2016 at 16:54 Quote
EvilToad wrote:
Thepureface wrote:
That's very nice, although I can't read the orange writing
Thanks. it says Notorious on one side, and Evilous Toad on the other. Nickname given to me for years.
I kept it kind of cryptic grundge as I haven't done this in over 15 years, a bit rusty, not so clean, so I wanted to make it where I can hide my flaws. LOL!


Haha thanks for explaining.

 


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