Alpine riding in The Portes du Soleil-Why this Region is killing it!

Aug 1, 2007

It’s the end of a long day. We’re sat on the bikes high up in Avoriaz, looking down an arrow straight glacial valley. In the far distance, 800 vertical metres below us and almost perfectly framed by the steep cliffs of the valley is the village of Morzine. Bathed in a warm orange glow, it is receiving all of the suns attention now and we are starting to feel the chills that the evening shadows are bringing. It’s all downhill from here, and although we’ve been on a huge loop today, most of the strain has been taken by the chairlifts and I’ve lost count of the different downhill tracks we’ve ridden. It’s a strange fatigue…

Alpine riding in The Portes du Soleil- this region near to Geneva, is unique in Europe. I can’t think of another resort that, in the summer months, is linked to so many others and gives a network of lifts so wide that you could spend a week riding different trails each day.



Sometimes I guilt trip myself- I am often hard on myself for mistakes made, opportunities lost and will not let myself take the easy option (unless it’s tipping it down with rain). I don’t always reach the far off corners, the outskirts, and the untouched gems as much as I should. It’s not that I don’t want to- far from it, I know better than many the nuggets of fun that will be found over in Switzerland. It’s just there are so many tracks and trails nearer to home to play on and session first. Also you need to be up and at ‘em to get everything in during the day. First lifts are normally churning into life as I’m stuck at my desk, so the ‘loop’ is more of a treat now…



The season is in full flow at the moment and the small towns of Morzine and Les Gets are bustling. In the towns families with small children in tow negotiate the numerous gift shops and parents try to reign in their excited little ones. Alongside them on the roads, there is a steady stream of mountain bikers plodding past on their way to the lift stations. Helmets slung over the bars, Camelbaks full to the brim, and the characteristic hunch of someone riding with the saddle low.



Up in the hills it is play time as almost everyone is on holiday- the relaxed vibe is palpable. The region has grown steadily and it went through a boom a few years ago when conversation at the races back in the UK often came around to ‘when you going to Morzine?’ It was a given that during some point in the summer months you’d get a group of mates together, fill the van or the bike box, and turn up for a week or two of riding in perfect train formation hollering at the lad in front for having his brakes on.



More recently there has been other areas in the Alps that have realised they have a lot of empty chairs swinging on the hill, and a lot of empty chairs in the restaurants that need filling too. Pila in Italy and the French resorts of Deux Alpes and Alpe D’Huez have all started to expand their summer business with bike specific tracks and festivals to entice bookings. There is also the ‘C’ word that started as a whisper a few years back but is now said loud and proud- Canada has always held a certain curiosity and I’ve heard many stories of a hill filled with trails and tracks to go up and down like a yo-yo. Whistler seems to be more of a ‘resort’ than any Alpine town will ever be and I am intrigued by how it compares.

The French are trying to progress and it is happening slowly but surely. Between the morning espresso, vin rouge during the 3 hour lunch break and the late night soirees, there is only so much they can do in a day! Seriously though, things have developed a lot recently and the main tracks are almost constantly being re-graded, re-shaped and are not left to get as chopped out as they used to be. To see a guy shaping a berm and jump as we sailed over him on the chairlift is refreshing and great for everyone.



Chatel, one of the towns linked into the region, is really pushing things and has an amazing bike park with maybe 8-10 different lines down it- with lots of ‘North Shore’ weaving in and out of the trees. They have also kicked in the extra 50cents and super sized one of the trails- this has the large lines and will silence all of those car park kings who can wheelie for miles but don’t cut the mustard when they have to actually navigate a descent. Very impressive to see someone ride it with style and flow.


The winter seasons here are busy and bustling- the town draws the winter folk who come for the massive skiing areas and cool off piste- but the atmosphere is just not the same. I think it is something about mountain bikes. In a little alpine village it is often strange to recognise faces, say hi to people as you walk past and also see the professionals out on their bikes or in the bars- many pro riders come here to practice and train and some even base their entire race season from here. Double takes at Tracey Moseley, knowing nods to one of the UK racers you half know, and when Brendan arrives with the shiny Honda there will be the brave asking for a go…(Easy short 2 letter answer or any number of 4 letter ones for that question…)

August is just here and that means only a month of fun left. With the World Championships being held in Fort William, Scotland, we’re flying over to be a part of that. If the riders thought the Fort William crowd was crazy in years past you just wait until Peaty comes storming by in September- it will be incredible. I just hope he gets bionic and his foot is tethered back on. Otherwise the cheers and banners will be more simple as ‘Atherton’ works 3 times over.



The heat of the morning sun is now coming in through the window and this shaft of heat is landing right on my feet. Alas that is a sign I’ve been at the desk too long- time to crack the bike out and head for the hills.

Photos by Paul Thomas www.motionimaging.co.uk


Have a good one.

Alan
www.riders-retreat.co.uk