Tech Tuesday – Five Minute Wheel True

Jan 17, 2012

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Wire-spoke wheels are simple, strong and lightweight, but each component depends upon its neighbors for protection. As long as the spokes are evenly tensioned and the rim is round, the force of an impact is distributed around the circumference of the wheel. As stress and damage cause individual spokes to loosen, the job is shouldered by fewer spokes in tension. If you let all the spokes go slack, then the job of supporting the rider and his or her botched landings goes to the few spokes that happen to oppose the vector of force – which usually results in broken spokes and game over.

Without belaboring the point, a quick check of your spokes and the condition of your wheels is a good idea. If you do find a few loose spokes and a wobbly rim, use the following five-minute wheel tuneup to get all the bits spinning in a perfect circle again. Tuning a wheel is as easy as restoring the spoke tension and tightening right-side spokes to move the rim to the right, or the left-side spokes to move the rim to the left. The key is to make everything happen in order so that fixing the wobble doesn't result in uneven spoke tension. You may be surprised at how simple the task can be..

Tip: Some wheels, like DT Swiss Tricon, have powerful locking fluid applied to the threads that requires advanced truing techniques and should be left to a proper mechanic. Also, if you get lost in the process of tensioning or truing a wheel, admit defeat and stop right there. Your local bike shop is well equipped to true wheels and it is a lot easier for a mechanic to fix a slightly wobbly one than a wheel that a customer has ‘trued’ to destruction.

Warning: Never use pliers to tighten a spoke nipple unless your wheel is only one ride away from destruction anyway and you have already stripped the working edges of the nipples.

What You ll Need Proper spoke wrench. For standard square nipples choose the type that grabs three corners. Park and DT Swiss make the best. Some spokes use tiny hex nuts and others use splined nipples. - If your wheels have bladed spokes you ll need a second slotted tool that prevents the spoke from twisting as you tension the nipple. - Mavic top and Shimano lower left wheels are shipped with both a slotted and a splined spoke wrench. - Not shown but quite handy is a felt-tip pen to mark the apex of a wobble in the rim that needs straightening.

What you'll Need:
- A proper spoke wench. For square nipples, use the type that grab at least three corners (Park Tool and DT Swiss make the best).
- Some wheels use tiny hex nuts and others have special splined nipples.- If your wheels have bladed spokes, you may need a second, slotted wrench to keep the spoke from twisting. Mavic (top) and Shimano (lower left) are equipped with slotted wrenches.
- Not shown, but handy, is a felt tip pen to mark the apex of each wobble.

Pinkbike's Five-Minute Wheel True

Step one: Assess the wheel. Put the bike in a stand or simply turn it upside down and give the wheel a spin. Runout (sideways wobble) over one millimeter (1/16-inch) is worth fussing with. At or below that threshold is a perfectly acceptable wheel for disc-brake bikes. Finally, watch the rim as the wheel spins for any significant flat spots. The rim must be round to remain strong. A little flat spot can be nursed for a long time, but a big one usually means game-over and a rim replacement.

Step two: work around the wheel and squeeze each spoke. You are searching for either a loose pair or a loner that is significantly looser than the rest. It may help to squeeze the spokes of a good wheel to establish a base line.
Tip: Plink each spoke with a fingernail and listen to the tone. All the spokes on one side of the hub should ring about the same. A significantly lower note signals a low-tensioned spoke.

Step three: Begin at the valve stem and work around the wheel, tensioning the slack spokes. Tighten the nipples one-half turn and then reverse about a quarter of a revolution. This unwinds the spoke and ensures that you are turning the threads each time. Bring up the slack spokes about 90 percent of the properly tensioned spokes and don't worry about rim runout yet. If you have bladed spokes, grasp the bladed part close to the nipple with the slotted wrench and only tension the spokes one fourth revolution at a time.

Step four: With the bike in a stand, or up-side down, brace your hand against the frame or fork and place the spoke wrench just close enough to the side of the spinning rim to hear it grind against the largest wobble in the wheel. Rock the wheel back and forth until you find the spoke nearest to the apex of the wobble. Hold that spoke or mark the side of the rim with a felt tip pen.

Step five: Always work out rim runout in groups of three spokes. The middle spoke at the apex of the wobble is flanked by two spokes that originate from the opposite side of the hub. First loosen the spokes (or spoke) from the hub flange that is closest to the apex of the wobble about a half turn. Next, tighten the spokes (or spoke) that originate from the opposite side of the apex the same amount. Recheck the runout and repeat until it shrinks to about a millimeter and then move on to the next wobble. Work around the wheel in sequence until you have reduced each trouble spot to about a millimeter on both sides of the rim.

Step six. Recheck spoke tension with a feel or a plink test. If the spokes are closely matched, then you are done. If there are some low-tensioned spokes left, then begin at the valve stem and tension every spoke one-fourth turn. This will bring up the tension in the entire wheel and help push the rim outwards to stretch the errant ones.

Step seven: Give the spokes a final plink test and spin the wheel to assess that the runout is within a millimeter or so. If its within 85 to 90-percent of new, you are gold.

I think I'll use those wheel truing tips to...

...remind me to leave the spoke wrench in my tool box and take my wheels to a bike shop.
...check out my wheels and give it a go.
...poop on

Responses: 2373 Faves: 8 Comments: 2

Past Tech Tuesdays:

TT #1 - How to change a tube.
TT #2 - How to set up your SRAM rear derailleur
TT #3 - How to remove and install pedals
T #4 - How To Bleed Your Avid Elixir Brakes
TT #5 - How To Check And Adjust Your Headset
TT #6 - How To Fix A Broken Chain
TT #7 - Tubeless Conversion
TT #8 - Chain Wear
TT #9 - SRAM Shift Cable Replacement
TT #10 - Removing And Installing a Headset
TT #11 - Chain Lube Explained
TT #12 - RockShox Totem and Lyric Mission Control Damper Mod
TT #13 - Shimano XT Crank and Bottom Bracket Installation
TT #14 - Straightening Your Derailleur Hanger
TT #15 - Setting Up Your Front Derailleur
TT #16 - Setting Up Your Cockpit
TT #17 - Suspension Basics
TT #18 - Adjusting The Fox DHX 5.0
TT #19 - Adjusting The RockShox BoXXer World Cup
TT #20 - Servicing Your Fox Float Shock
TT #21 - Wheel Truing Basics
TT #22 - Shimano Brake Pad Replacement
TT #23 - Shimano brake bleed
TT #24 - Fox Lower Leg Removal And Service
TT #25 - RockShox Motion Control Service
TT #26 - Avid BB7 Cable Disk Brake Setup
TT #27 - Manitou Dorado Fork Rebuild
TT #28 - Manitou Circus Fork Rebuild
TT #29 - MRP G2 SL Chain Guide Install
TT #30 - Cane Creek Angleset Installation
TT #31 - RockShox Maxle Lite DH

TT #32 - Find Your Tire Pressure Sweet Spot
TT #33 - Three Minute Bike Preflight Check
TT #34 - MRP XCG Install
TT #35 - Stem Choice and Cockpit Setup
TT #36 - Handlebars - How Wide Affects Your Ride
TT #37 - Repairing A Torn Tire
TT #38 - Coil spring swap
TT #39 - Trailside help: Broken Shift Cable
TT #40 - Installing a Fox Float Air-Volume Spacer
TT #41 - Replace the Seals on Your 2011 RockShox Boxxer World Cup Fork
TT #42 - Clean and Lubricate Your Fox F32 Dust Wiper Seals
TT #43 - Thread Locker Basics
TT #44 - Install a SRAM X.0 Two-By-Ten Crankset
TT #45 - VPP Suspension Bearing Service
TT #46 - Rotor Straightening
TeT #47 - Finding and fixing that creak
TT #48 - Bleed and Service Magura Marta Disc Brakes
TT #49 - Cup and Cone Hub Basics
TT #50 - Install and Adjust Pedal Cleats
TT #51 - Cup and Cone Hub Rebuild
TT #52 - Converting Mavic Crossmax SX Axles
TT #53 - Cassette Removal and Installation
TT #54 - Cane Creek AngleSet Installation
TT #55 - American Classic Tubeless Conversion
TT #56 - Wider Rims Are Better and Why Tubeless Tires Burp Air
TT #57 - Pedal Pin Retrofit
TT #58 - Bleed RockShox Reverb Remote Lines
TT #59 - Cutting Carbon

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92 Comments

Score Time

+ 22

Willie1 (Jan 17, 2012 at 7:16)

I have built and trued many wheels in the past four years. A couple little pointers that help me:

1. when using aluminum nipples, a little drop of light oil prior to turning will save many nipples.

2. 1/4 turn backwards before tightening will save many aluminum nipples.

3. On stubborn wheels, a slight overtension, then releasing tension for final truing sometimes works. It helps prevent spoke windup.

4. Use the right spoke nipple wrench!!!! There is no such thing as "close enough" unless you want to have to buy all new nipples and start over.

5. On really stubborn wheels with seized spokes, use oil on both ends of the spoke nipple and the nipple rim interface, pluck the spokes like instrument strings, let it sit for 1/2 hour, then try to loosen then adjust the spokes. DO NOT USE WD-40 or other penetrating sprays. They will remove the little bit of lubrication held in the nipple interface.

6. For wheel assembly, I have used light weight fork oil wherever the spoke, hub, nipple, and rim touch.

7. The last step is to put the wheel on the floor and pressure/release the wheel from all different angles around the rim to release any residual spoke windup. Recheck trueness and adjust again if necessary.

+ 11

rhiwfawrdirt (Jan 17, 2012 at 10:08)

a very simple tip i use to mark the rim where the wheel is rubbing is use chalk instead of the marker pen used here because it stays on sold when the wheel is spinning and will rub right off when your done

+ 15

JamisJammer95 (Jan 17, 2012 at 10:59)

I want a video, dang it.

seraph (Jan 17, 2012 at 11:27)

I almost always use a drop of Triflow on the nips before I start truing a wheel, especially if it's a particularly dirty or old wheel. Just make sure you wipe off any excess oil before you ride, or you may end up getting it on your brake rotor.

toddonbike (Jan 17, 2012 at 18:29)

TRIFLOW! the best lube for stubborn nips. DETENSION~ all those clinks and pings you hear when you inflate the tire or sit on the bike the first time are the spokes unwinding and can effect your spoke tension, a light blow with a rubber mallet where the spokes cross and/or standing the wheel on the ground and leaning into it will help detension the spokes ( try not to side-load the wheel you could damage the rim or bearings). Great article- Good advise... even if I did poop on it.

seraph (Jan 17, 2012 at 21:42)

A preferred way to detension the wheel (that doesn't involve a mallet) is to hold the wheel against your stomach perpendicular and then press down on the rim with your elbows while holding your hands on the rim at the 2 o'clock and 11 o'clock positions. You should get some nice pings from this method.

toddonbike (Jan 20, 2012 at 16:43)

15 years of wheel building experience... I usually employ 2 or three different methods of detension including what you speak of but the mallet works well. I also strike the spoke at the hub flange to seat the spoke head and relieve the tension where it wants to bend towards the center of the rim. This actually strengthens the spoke. My methods are race proven and I have very few re-trues and spoke failures are virtually non existent.

seraph (Jan 20, 2012 at 16:59)

Experience exshmerience. I'm sure the mallet works fine for you but I will only take a hammer to my wheels when they are severely bent or if I am seating a spoke head with a punch.

randybadger (Jan 21, 2012 at 3:11)

A good squeeze on pairs of spokes works well. The handle of a screwdriver pushed firmly into where the spoke crosses is good for a detention too.
A little copperslip (copper grease) on spoke threads is good for ally nipples as it has quite low "sticktion" and doesn't degrade. Helps prevent any long term bi metallic corrosion

[Reply]

+ 20

hankyman (Jan 17, 2012 at 7:44)

it was so very hard for me not to pick the "....poop on" answer!
poop humor never gets old!

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thinkbike (Jan 17, 2012 at 15:51)

If you are new to this, practice on your little brother's ride or neighbor's beater bike before trying it on your fancy smancy wheelset. Here's the line: "Hey, this wheel is a bit out of true, but I can help you out with it!"

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MWB13 (Jan 17, 2012 at 3:30)

I rubber band a ruler to the fork lowers or rear if the tire is off and I don't have my stand around, but when the tire is on I use zip ties on the fork or frame.

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stephenhumphries (Jan 17, 2012 at 3:16)

cable ties are nice to use as well,cut them off when you're done,

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mtbfunfunfun (Jan 17, 2012 at 6:31)

Really good write up. Wheel building and truing are well worth learning. My wheels are cheap and last a long time because of a little investment of time to learn this stuff. Stan's ZTR Flows with Hope Pro 2 hubs -- sturdy and worthy.

Best text of all time on pinkbike....LOVE IT.

"only one ride away from destruction"

[Reply]

randybadger (Jan 19, 2012 at 5:51)

Once you have trued a wheel or two its not that tricky. The real art was back when rim brakes where more common you had to be spot on not just left or right and up and down.
anyone who has built wheels will know getting it not to wobble is the easy bit, its getting the tension just right for vertical alignment that is tricky. Thats when you really appreciate a good rim to start with. (and the right size spokes (for any builders out there who have accidentally mixed up their spoke sizes in a drawer))

cyfa89 (Feb 24, 2012 at 9:34)

I have had to build and re build a wheel a couple of times due to messing up my spokes before, sob sob.

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seamus (Jan 17, 2012 at 8:00)

I used a mavic d321 on a hope big un hub (front wheel) that I used from 1998 all the way up till oct 2011, just by checking the spokes once a week made it last that long and its still going, I use a coat hanger wire tied to the forks/frame and about 5mm out from the rim to find the small wobbles, but most of the time I just use feel.

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Yario (Jan 17, 2012 at 6:07)

does it make a difference if you true your wheel with the tire and tube on? Does the added pressure help, hinder or make no difference at? Ive never tried to true my own rims, and if its not necessary to take the time to get rid of the tire and tube and then put it back on after, it would make the time between rides slightly less Smile

Willie1 (Jan 17, 2012 at 7:30)

It is easier to do it with the tire and tube off, and in a truing stand. If you look straight down the rim to the marker, the sliver of light you see is more accurate than this method. This method works if you notice the problem away from the garage, or if you don't have a stand.

toddonbike (Jan 17, 2012 at 18:34)

LET THE AIR OUT, on machine built, single wall rims (most stock wheels) a sharp nipple can cut through the rim strip and puncture your tube or just damage it enough to get you out on the trail before it lets go.

randybadger (Jan 19, 2012 at 12:13)

They are usually rebated

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dirtworks911 (Jan 17, 2012 at 14:24)

This is going to make guys like me real busy at bikeshops fixing all these messed up wheels!

randybadger (Jan 21, 2012 at 3:14)

It is when folk turn thier spokes the wrong way and make them worse!

cyfa89 (Feb 24, 2012 at 9:35)

Its when folk take no care and their spokes and nipples corrode into each other (mostly cheap bikes).

[Reply]

iamamodel (Jan 17, 2012 at 19:38)

Similiar to what Richard was saying about 'working in threes', if you are out on the trail and break a spoke, especially if you are still running rim brakes, you need to loosen the two spokes either side of the broken spoke. This will bring the rim back to true. Now you can make it home but ride gently because 10% of your rim has little tension on it.

If you can't remove the broken spoke, bend it and hook it/zip tie/tape it to another spoke so it doesn't do any more damage as it flails around.

[Reply]

sye77 (Jan 17, 2012 at 10:53)

a cut down zip tie on the frame / fork against the rim will show you where it runs out of true. If your building from scratch get an electric screw driver, saves lots of time !

randybadger (Jan 19, 2012 at 5:53)

Still got a little black and decker one for just that purpose.

[Reply]

tinfoil (Jan 17, 2012 at 14:56)

Wheel truing is finnicky business. Even though I know how to do it, and do it often on my shitty hardtail, I'd still rather pay someone to be responsible for anything that goes wrong on the money pit DH sled.

cyfa89 (Feb 24, 2012 at 9:35)

Really?
Blame game!

tinfoil (Feb 26, 2012 at 21:58)

Yep!

But really, it's more a matter of the peace of mind that someone who knows their shit has done a job on my wheel that they are willing to stake their reputation for knowing said shit on.

cyfa89 (Feb 27, 2012 at 1:10)

Paying for the expertise. Cant say fairer than that.

[Reply]

James-Carey (Jan 17, 2012 at 8:28)

Truing wheels Italian is a stupid thing to advise someone who doesnt know how to build wheels... Just use the spoke tool as said to find al issues, seriously though think logically how a spoke works and you will be fine, there re much better guides than this though, also buddy spokey's are also awesome, no idea how pink bike forgot to mention them... and dont use sharpie on your rim, it wont come off, just use the spoke tool and work it out, it isnt that hard, or use chalk to find issues instead of the spoke tool, it comes off easier, and can be done a few times as the wobbles shift about

seraph (Jan 17, 2012 at 11:27)

Sharpie comes off your rim just fine with some rubbing alcohol, buddy.

James-Carey (Jan 17, 2012 at 11:53)

chalk is easier though dont you think? just seems a lot of effort to mark the apex of a bulge?

cyfa89 (Feb 24, 2012 at 9:39)

GT85 also works.

I much prefer to use the stand/my finger/that sliver of light as mentioned in another comment. And i dont mark the apex, i go from where it begins to go out of true, then hold that spoke, then spin it towards me until it goes back to the centre. Then you can do 1/4 and 1/2 turns.

1/4 turn = minor adjustment
1/2 turn = significant adjustment
1 turn = major adjustment.

I mostly use quarter turns as a small error is much easier to correct.

[Reply]

simooo (Jan 17, 2012 at 9:18)

I would and have done this on J hook type spokes. But my new bike has direct mount hubs and I have no idea how to tension them. Then again they have taken a dogs abuse and have absolutely no sign of a buckle.
All is well.

leelau (Jan 17, 2012 at 10:13)

It should be the same principles simooo - maybe a specific spoke key if the spokes are a proprietary diameter.

simooo (Jan 20, 2012 at 16:29)

I just googled a little, and it looks just like the spokes should infact be easier to tension than regular J hook type spokes. Sweet Smile

[Reply]

rigodon777 (Jan 17, 2012 at 3:43)

If you do this everytime, your pretty little wheel could go a VERY long way. Never had the strongest rims and I've always had a good couple of season on each of them!

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toddonbike (Jan 17, 2012 at 18:40)

or find where the rim is out and just slam it against the ground or a tree, that will get you home when your wheel is whomped!

[Reply]

boo86 (Jan 17, 2012 at 4:49)

Been truing my own wheels for years, nice and easy on my old V-braked cannondale as the brake blocks give perfect reference points.

randybadger (Jan 17, 2012 at 10:56)

Very true. Bring back v brakes

boo86 (Jan 18, 2012 at 0:23)

Why would randybadger get neg props for saying that ?!

The world's gone mental !!

Shame on you pinkbike, shame on you Frown

randybadger (Jan 18, 2012 at 1:38)

Thanks for the support. Think some people might take things a bit too literally

RichardCunningham Mod (Jan 18, 2012 at 14:30)

I agree, randybadger said: "Very true. Bring back v brakes".
RC

randybadger (Jan 19, 2012 at 5:44)

You know what I could do with on my dh rig right now instead of discs?

boo86 (Jan 20, 2012 at 3:21)

@ randybadger, Rachel Atherton ?

randybadger (Jan 21, 2012 at 3:18)

I was going to say v brake but I am sure to get neg props for clearly believing the foolish statement I would have just made.
In all seriousness I think British mild sarcasm might get culturally lost in translation. (I really don't mean that in a bad way either )

cyfa89 (Feb 24, 2012 at 9:40)

Yes it really does get lost in translation and its hard enough to portray in text to begin with.

[Reply]

socalshredder (Jan 17, 2012 at 3:37)

like my grand ma ma use to say, "ain't nothin' a lil' bit of duct tape won't fix ya"

WAKIdesigns (Jan 17, 2012 at 5:16)

and if you don't believe me... you can just gyeeeet out!

[Reply]

shishka (Jan 17, 2012 at 20:00)

That felt pen to keep track of which spoke needs fixing is a simple but useful tip. I usually use masking tape but marker easy and faster.

[Reply]

jmm337 (Jan 19, 2012 at 1:33)

How about a short audio clip of what the plucked spoke should sound like? Them all being the same could just mean they are all wrong.

cyfa89 (Feb 24, 2012 at 9:41)

Its different for many wheels due to all the different rim/hub combos and spokes lengths/tensions and what not.

jmm337 (Feb 26, 2012 at 23:16)

yea true, but it wouldn't be that different. Could use my guitar tuner, haha.

cyfa89 (Feb 27, 2012 at 1:21)

Haha!

Best tool to use is the park spoke tension checker and table.

[Reply]

bebemonk4ever (Jan 17, 2012 at 14:47)

thanks pinkbike but i already knew that Razz

hope that any of my costumers dont see this loooool

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Jtalatzko (Jan 17, 2012 at 15:37)

GoPro handlebar mounts work great for checking wobble Wink

[Reply]

airsoftesneeto (Jan 17, 2012 at 11:57)

im a noob at truing wheels. but i got a question.

is it better to true a wheel with the tire on or off? Im thinking with the tire on the tire could throw the truness of the wheel off. is that right?

cherouvim (Jan 17, 2012 at 13:27)

No. The only case to not have a tyre on is when building from scratch.

andrewgrant (Jan 17, 2012 at 14:52)

or if you use a truing stand and the wheel won't fit with the tire on. Not usually an issue, and especially if you run tubeless it's a MASSIVE pain.

etqmtber (Jan 17, 2012 at 16:41)

I don't true wheels myself, but if you're truing a wheel it pays to put a tyre on and inflate it every now and then. The mechanic at my LBS said that if you true the wheel completely and then put the tyre on it can release some tension in the spokes and put the wheel out of true again.

cyfa89 (Feb 24, 2012 at 9:43)

Yes it can. Your local 'wal-mart' bikes have such cheaply built wheels, when you pump them up to around 40psi, you hear some pings and if running rim brakes on these types of bikes, set the brakes up after!

[Reply]

randybadger (Jan 17, 2012 at 10:54)

Lolly pop stick works as a good truing guide or just you finger if your steady enough

[Reply]

badbadleroybrown (Jan 17, 2012 at 11:10)

Great article... so many people are afraid to work on their wheels, it's nice to see it in 'black and white' where just about anyone can get the idea.

[Reply]

mikeonetray13 (Jan 17, 2012 at 3:10)

thats how i do it, but i use masking tape to check to see how the rim is going, its more persicse than holding something

vengeance111 (Jan 17, 2012 at 11:46)

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA......... nipples

joslatapi (Jan 17, 2012 at 12:59)

Yesterday i was wondering, how to true my rims without taking the wheel off!!! cuz i really need, PINKBIKE you are officially my salvation!

kev-roberts (Jan 24, 2012 at 5:00)

great tech Tuesday, will be doing this!

[Reply]

jjm290rulesman (Jan 17, 2012 at 3:19)

great tips

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I-am-John (Jan 17, 2012 at 6:28)

kick ass, was on the edge of buying spoke keys for a slack wheel ive got. think i will do now.

cyfa89 (Feb 24, 2012 at 9:45)

I use the park one, it has 3 slots which fit most things and theyre normally around £10. It can be tough on your hands sometimes as it has good square edges adn is a bit small but more an observation not a complaint as its needs to be small really.

[Reply]

lseagram (Jan 24, 2012 at 16:25)

Might have to give this a go!

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thebillygoat6000 (Jan 17, 2012 at 3:49)

id rather use a stand Rolleyes

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str8dwn (Jan 17, 2012 at 11:48)

Love a good "spoke wench". Makes it all bettah.

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swampy45 Plus (Jan 17, 2012 at 7:15)

I'm gonna give it a shot, but I will probably still eff it up.

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sdoolan (Jan 17, 2012 at 8:21)

*Bookmarked*

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JABBA2010 (Jan 17, 2012 at 15:29)

Should of just used a video

RichardCunningham Mod (Jan 17, 2012 at 16:46)

Aaron LaRocque (http://larock.pinkbike.com/) was visiting while I was setting up the photos and offered to do a video, but he and Ian Hylands were thrashed from trying to shoot the Athertons in bad weather for three days, so I opted to do it in stills so LaRocque could get at least one night's rest.
RC

[Reply]

jimbsport (Jan 17, 2012 at 5:49)

you turn clockwise to loose the spoke ?

bikeboarder (Jan 17, 2012 at 6:07)

Yep

Sam41 (Jan 17, 2012 at 6:22)

yes, because you turn the nipple (the nut), which you turn from the back end.

It's like tightening a screw from the the threaded end, you have to turn counter clockwise

cyfa89 (Feb 24, 2012 at 9:47)

Depends how your looking at it. It will confuse you the firstt few times.

If its in a stand, the nipple pointing directly at you/closest to you, is normal thread then.

[Reply]

jjmirks (Jan 17, 2012 at 11:28)

wheel rebuild tech tuesday next?

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milesks (Jan 17, 2012 at 5:58)

*shown

parkboy (Jan 17, 2012 at 8:27)

There is a a faster way to tune your wheels than that. I use a pencil to mark my tires,. set the pencil 1/16 away from your tire and brace your hand spin the wheel and what ever way the rim goes the pencil will show so tension the rim on the other side to make it true, spin and repeat till you wheel is straight easy as pie!

IanHylands Mod Plus (Jan 17, 2012 at 8:50)

Not the greatest idea to mark your tires, tires are not 100% straight to the rim. Many tires have a little bit of a wobble in them here and there, even when the rim is straight. It's not a big amount, but definitely enough to notice. Maybe try the same trick but mark the rim with a pencil instead...

kixx (Jan 17, 2012 at 10:36)

or simply, watch the rim, but mark the tire Smile

IanHylands Mod Plus (Jan 17, 2012 at 11:34)

that works, but it's easy to hold a pencil against the stay and spin the wheel, as you move the pencil in it will mark the rim wherever it's a little out of line. You can do that on both sides and get a good idea of what's going on and what needs to be done...

parkboy (Jan 22, 2012 at 9:19)

True dat!

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