Tech Tuesday: Adjust the Pivot Bearings on Any Santa Cruz VPP Suspension

 I think it's a video on how to adjust pivot bearings, not how to use a torque wrench. He gives the tightness specs and tells you to use a torque wrench. Seems pretty straight forward to me. The video was very helpful I thought. My pivot was sloppy as hell. I just thought it was just the design - nope. Mine was pretty loose.

On a sidenote; "eyeballing" torque isn't that hard. Your idea is flawed and won't show a true torque reading anyway. Even with a torque wrench.

 Freesty, he is a Pro SC mechanic. He has the torque down by memory. I can torque parts on my truck within 1/2lb of what they need to be by memory.

Instead of saying he is a dumbass, how about you just think that maybe this guy works for the company that designed the bike and knows a piss ton more than you about it. If you contest my opinion, I expect you to have a representative mechanic job at Santa Cruz within the next 48 hours.

 No one called anyone a dumbass rffr!

I'm confused how you managed to pull fact out of thin air without proof and then start crying the moment someone dares to challenge you?
Get out and ride your bike some more and vent your anger in a positive way eh.

 I just read through my post and no where do i see the word dumbass rffr. I know he's a pro mech and not a dumbass and i don't doubt that he knows "a piss ton" more about the bike than i do but i still don't believe that he or anyone for that matter can adjust anything to torque spec without a wrench. I'm also willing to bet that you didn't run my experiment (Have your buddy torque something down and not tell you how much force it has on it and see if you can guess) I have done this, when i went through the BBI program to get my Cert 2, and i'm telling you there is no way you can know the exact torque even by supposed feel or memory. Not even if you use the same wrench with the same length (and therefore same leverage) it's not possible. If you can do it than post a vid and then you can make a living going around recalibrating wrenches for shops who don't want to pay the fees for having em sent in and calibrated by high precision machines.

As to erok81, you are right, i was picking out a small part of the video and it wasn't fair to bash the whole tech tip, but it seemed like he was doing the job only half right by not having his torque wrench and if he was actually adjusting it for a race instead of a video he half cared about, then he'd have gone out and found one cuz that kind of slop doesn't fly at the pro level. I posted my comment because i'm tired of people perpetuating the incorrect notion that you can adjust things to spec just by hand without the proper tools.

 course not. This is pinkbike, why would I know anything?

 it would appear you obviously dont

 sorry you've confused me... obviously don't what? Can you say it slowly

 werd, that stuff was dripping off! no good

 No man lather that stuff on! Over tighten the bolts too, you can never be too careful ;-)

 nope. you dont have the collets on your bike

 ok thanx mate

 indeed, you need to wait until it cure if you want it to work properly. (12 hrs to 24 hrs for best result)

 no. as per the instructions from Loctite, you assembly the hardware with the loctite still "wet." it does take up to 24hrs to cure once assembled though

 @deadatbirth thats what asmodeuss just said. Obviously you assemble the loctite while its wet but you shouldn't use it for 24 hrs otherwise the bolts can loosen.

 thanks for the tips.

 Obviously you do not stare at your bolt tìll the loc-tite cure, you put it in wet...

 most people dont realize you assemble the hardware right away applying the loctite

 well if someone who works on the bike and for santa cruz says he does then i think you can be pretty sure its fine!

 Last time I used the stuff, the bolt sheared when I tried to remove it.
As those pivot bolts are something I'd like to be able to remove them once in a while.

Plus if it was that important how come there was none on when he pulled it out?

 the loctite had worn away when he removed the bolt but you could see it had been used previously.

 I didn't see any sign of any previous loctite on there.
Besides, what good is loctite anyway if it wears away like that?

 What kind of loctite you used?
-i guess the red one

 The locktite shears off when the bolt is removed. the internal threading rubs the material off the bolt as you remove it. you'll see some residue between the threads, but not a coating.. Red locktite needs to be removed with heat.. it's a 'permanent' use product.. chances are, the bolt had other contamanents that caused it to seize and the head to shear off.

Blue is the stuff to use. I hope this helps T1. cheers.

 A bolt sheared because you used loc-tite? Wow, you are an epic failure. Stop working on bikes. Stop riding bikes. Hit yourself in the head with a hammer and be done with it.

There are no stupid questions and comments... just stupid people... and you fall right into that category.

And shockie, the red loc-tite needing to be removed with heat also falls into the quote above in this reply. You also have 0 idea what your talking about. Flippen brain dead people on PB thinking they know everything about everything.

NO loctite needs to be removed with heat. If you think that you know absolutely nothing about mechanic work.

 Well done sir, for giving an opinion as fact.
And then without provocation jumping straight in with groundless insults and trolling.
You are a credit to your country. Have a medal.

 For those that bother to read this far it doesn't take much of a search (google or whatever) to find that what shrockie wrote is correct.