What you'll need:
• 2.5mm hex key
• Large flat blade screwdriver
• Needle nose pliers
)Tips and tricks:
• Having a clean work environment is always important, but never more so than when doing brake work. Getting any sort of lube or grease onto the new brake pads will render them useless, so take a few minutes to not only tidy up before starting, but also wipe your workbench clean of any contamination that may be present from your last repair job.
• Avid recommends replacing brake pads when they get to be 3mm thick, which is about the thickness of two US dimes.
• The pad retaining bolt and E-clip are small items - put them somewhere safe where they won't get lost after removing them from the caliper. An old Tupperware container is perfect for this sort of thing.
• Always reset the pistons - push them fully back into their bore - before removing the old, worn out pads. You are likely to damage the piston if you push directly on it, which is why you always leave the old pads in place while doing this. Also, never reset the pistons with your new pads installed for the same reason.
• Even when a pad change is done correctly, a slight amount of brake drag may be present. Take the bike for a spin to break the new pads in and then recheck to see if the wheel now turns freely. If not, you may need to recenter the caliper by loosening the Avid CPS bolts, holding the brake on and then re-tightening the caliper bolts (a small amount of freehand fine tuning may also be needed to get it perfect
• New brake pads take time before they can deliver fully power. Avid says that it could take 20-40 stops before they get up to full power. Break them in by doing short hard stops, not by dragging the brakes.Avid Elixir Pad Replacement:
Past Tech Tuesdays
:Technical Tuesday #1 - How to change a tube. Technical Tuesday #2 - How to set up your SRAM rear derailleur Technical Tuesday #3 - How to remove and install pedals Technical Tuesday #4 - How To Bleed Your Avid Elixir Brakes Technical Tuesday #5 - How To Check And Adjust Your Headset Technical Tuesday #6 - How To Fix A Broken Chain Technical Tuesday #7 - Tubeless Conversion Technical Tuesday #8 - Chain Wear Technical Tuesday #9 - SRAM Shift Cable Replacement Technical Tuesday #10 - Removing And Installing a HeadsetTechnical Tuesday #11 - Chain Lube ExplainedTechnical Tuesday #12 - RockShox Totem and Lyric Mission Control Damper ModTechnical Tuesday #13 - Shimano XT Crank and Bottom Bracket InstallationTechnical Tuesday #14 - Straightening Your Derailleur HangerTechnical Tuesday #15 - Setting Up Your Front DerailleurTechnical Tuesday #16 - Setting Up Your CockpitTechnical Tuesday #17 - Suspension BasicsTechnical Tuesday #18 - Adjusting The Fox DHX 5.0Technical Tuesday #19 - Adjusting The RockShox BoXXer World CupTechnical Tuesday #20 - Servicing Your Fox Float ShockTechnical Tuesday #21 - Wheel Truing BasicsTechnical Tuesday #22 - Shimano Brake Pad ReplacementTechnical Tuesday #23 - Shimano brake bleedTechnical Tuesday #24 - Fox Lower Leg Removal And ServiceTechnical Tuesday #25 - RockShox Motion Control ServiceTechnical Tuesday #26 - Avid BB7 Cable Disk Brake SetupTechnical Tuesday #27 - Manitou Dorado Fork RebuildTechnical Tuesday #28 - Manitou Circus Fork RebuildTechnical Tuesday #29 - MRP G2 SL Chain Guide InstallTechnical Tuesday #30 - Cane Creek Angleset InstallationTechnical Tuesday #31 - RockShox Maxle Lite DHTechnical Tuesday #32 - Find Your Tire Pressure Sweet SpotTechnical Tuesday #33 - Three Minute Bike Preflight CheckTechnical Tuesday #34 - MRP XCG InstallTechnical Tuesday #35 - Stem Choice and Cockpit SetupTechnical Tuesday #36 - Handlebars - How Wide Affects Your RideTechnical Tuesday #37 - Repairing A Torn TireTechnical Tuesday #38 - Coil spring swapTechnical Tuesday #39 - Trailside help: Broken Shift CableTechnical Tuesday #40 - Installing a Fox Float Air-Volume Spacer
to see their entire lineup of tools and lubes.Do you have some of your own pointers to add? Put them down below!