Tech Tuesday - Steerer tube length

Feb 7, 2012 at 0:05
Feb 7, 2012
by Mike Levy  
 
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Length is everything: Determining the correct fork steerer tube length is one of the most crucial tasks that can be done on a bike. Too long and you'll be forced to either use an excessive amount of headset spacers (an extremely long steerer could even be considered dangerous) or recut, but if cut too short you may be have to purchase a new crown and steerer tube assembly, an expensive proposition when you consider how expensive many forks have become. So, how does one figure out the correct steerer tube length? Measuring the bike's head tube and factoring in the headset and stem's stack height, along with any additional spacers (or upper crown if the fork is a dual crown model) is one way, but we far prefer to do go with the test fit method described below.

Tech Tuesday
Your fork's steerer tube length depends on a number of different factors, including the bike's head tube length, headset stack height (including the cups, bearings, crown race and any associated parts) required headset spacers, and the stem's stack height. The steerer tube must not be so long as to protrude from the top of the stem, preventing the headset from being tightened, but also must be long enough to allow for enough clamping contact with the stem.

The frame shown above already has its integrated headset cups installed into the frame. Some headsets will feature minimal stack height like the Cane Creek model pictured, whereas others may take up much more steerer tube length.
Tech Tuesday
The steerer tube, in this case a tapered version on a Magura Thor fork, is highlighted above in red. This passes through your bike's head tube, along with all of the headset parts, and the stem is clamped in place at the top end.


Some helpful pointers:
• While this Tech Tuesday shows you how determine the correct steerer tube length, it doesn't take into account your preferred handlebar height position. Make sure to factor in how many spacers are required to achieve the desired bar height. If the bike or fork is new you may want to leave extra steerer tube length for more spacers than usual, allowing you to adjust the bar height and fine tune your position.
• The phrase "stack height" often refers to the total steerer tube length that is taken up by a headset, although it can also refer to the same thing in a stem. An integrated headset, with its headset bearings set into the cups that are hidden within the bike's head tube, will feature a lower stack height, while a standard headset with external bearings will take up more length.
• A new fork will come with a steerer tube that will be too long, meaning that you'll have to cut it shorter once you know the length that you require. If purchasing a used fork, you'll need to make sure that the steerer tube hasn't been cut too short by the previous owner, making it perfect for their bike but too short for yours. Always measure the steerer tube length of any used fork to be positive that it is long enough to fit your bike. Too short and the stem will not have enough clamping surface area on the steerer, making for a very dangerous situation. It is also common for manufacturers to recommend not exceeding 20mm of extra stack height on top of the height of your headset and stem. This is especially true of carbon fiber steerer tubes.
• A headset's stack height is often listed on the packaging or website, but it is always better to install and measure the steerer tube length required, as opposed to measuring the head tube, combining that with the headset's advertised stack height, and cutting the steerer based on this info. It takes longer to install all of the parts and measure, but it is much more fool-proof.
• Headset spacers come in many different sizes, including 2mm, 5mm, 10mm, 15mm, and 20mm options. This allows you to take up the correct amount of steerer tube length without adding excessive stack height.

How a headset tightens: A modern threadless headset, be it an integrated or more conventional model, tightens by compressing the upper and lower elements together tight enough to prevent rattling, but not so tight as to prevent it from turning freely. How does it work? In order for the headset to tighten, a star nut (or expanding plug for carbon steerer tubes) is pressed into the steerer tube, allowing a bolt to run through the headset's top cap above the stem and threaded into it. With the stem (and in the case of a dual crown fork, the upper crown) loose, tightening the bolt compresses everything together and eliminates and back and forth play. If the steerer tube is too long, the top cap will bottom on it, preventing the headset from being able to be fully tightened. Check out this earlier Tech Tuesday to learn more about adjusting your headset properly.

Tech Tuesday
Step 1 - Install the headset into your bike's head tube (refer to the headset manufacturers instructions) and slide the fork up and into place. Take a moment to be 100% sure that the fork is fully seated into the head tube and that the upper and lower headset assemblies are seated correctly. Look for gaps between the bearings covers, or between the headset's crown race and lower bearing.

Even though some headsets use tolerances tight enough that they may hold the fork in place, it's good to either have a friend hold it up in place or support the fork's dropouts from below with a chain. The goal is to simulate a completely installed fork, allowing you to determine the amount of steerer tube required.
Tech Tuesday
Step 2 - With the fork slid up and into place, a section of the steerer tube will protrude from the top of the head tube. Install the stem and the spacers required to achieve your desired position, leaving the clamping bolts loose. The photo above shows extra steerer tube length protruding from the top of the stem, although it isn't excessive. Riders who would prefer to run a low bar height can put a spacer atop the stem to take up that extra length (a thin 2mm spacer between the stem and upper headset bearing cap is a good idea as well). Unless a spacer is added, the headset won't tighten in the configuration shown above because the top cap will simply bottom on the exposed steerer tube, preventing it from compressing everything together.
Tech Tuesday
Step 3 - In order to tighten the headset we needed to add a headset spacer, in this case a 10mm tall unit. We installed it under the stem (left), thus raising the bar height slightly. Placing it on top of the stem will also take up the steerer tube length and allow you to tighten the headset, but preserve the low bar height. With the spacer installed, the stem is raised enough to take up the extra steerer tube length. Note that the top of the stem sits roughly 5mm above the top of the steerer tube, leaving enough contact area between the stem and steerer tube for a solid grip. It isn't recommended to have more then 5mm of gap between the top of the stem and the top of the steerer tube.
Tech Tuesday
Step 4 - Install the headset top cap, turning the preload bolt clockwise to tighten the headset, compressing the parts together. If you are unsure of how tight to properly adjust the headset's tension you can check it our an earlier Tech Tuesday in the links below that covers the subject. Clamp down the stem's steerer tube clamping bolts to the recommended torque.
Tech Tuesday
Step 5 - After checking the headset for play and ensuring that it still turns freely, leave the stem's steerer clamp bolts tight and remove the headset's top cap. Because the tightening the headset compressed all of the headset components together, you will likely find that the 5mm gap between the top of the stem and the top of the steerer tube has now shrunk down to 2mm or 3mm (as shown in the photo above) - this is perfect. You want to make sure that the steerer tube is not flush with the top of the stem, preventing you from tightening the headset down the road. If it is, add a 2mm or 5mm spacer to the top of the stem. Keep in mind that a headset will "settle in" during the first few rides, likely requiring you to re-tighten it a final time. You will need a few extra millimeters of clearance to be able to do this. Reinstall the top cap and preload bolt.


Do you have anything to add? Put it down below!


Past Tech Tuesdays:
TT #1 - How to change a tube.
TT #2 - How to set up your SRAM rear derailleur
TT #3 - How to remove and install pedals
T #4 - How To Bleed Your Avid Elixir Brakes
TT #5 - How To Check And Adjust Your Headset
TT #6 - How To Fix A Broken Chain
TT #7 - Tubeless Conversion
TT #8 - Chain Wear
TT #9 - SRAM Shift Cable Replacement
TT #10 - Removing And Installing a Headset
TT #11 - Chain Lube Explained
TT #12 - RockShox Totem and Lyric Mission Control Damper Mod
TT #13 - Shimano XT Crank and Bottom Bracket Installation
TT #14 - Straightening Your Derailleur Hanger
TT #15 - Setting Up Your Front Derailleur
TT #16 - Setting Up Your Cockpit
TT #17 - Suspension Basics
TT #18 - Adjusting The Fox DHX 5.0
TT #19 - Adjusting The RockShox BoXXer World Cup
TT #20 - Servicing Your Fox Float Shock
TT #21 - Wheel Truing Basics
TT #22 - Shimano Brake Pad Replacement
TT #23 - Shimano brake bleed
TT #24 - Fox Lower Leg Removal And Service
TT #25 - RockShox Motion Control Service
TT #26 - Avid BB7 Cable Disk Brake Setup
TT #27 - Manitou Dorado Fork Rebuild
TT #28 - Manitou Circus Fork Rebuild
TT #29 - MRP G2 SL Chain Guide Install
TT #30 - Cane Creek Angleset Installation
TT #31 - RockShox Maxle Lite DH
TT #32 - Find Your Tire Pressure Sweet Spot
TT #33 - Three Minute Bike Preflight Check
TT #34 - MRP XCG Install
TT #35 - Stem Choice and Cockpit Setup
TT #36 - Handlebars - How Wide Affects Your Ride
TT #37 - Repairing A Torn Tire
TT #38 - Coil spring swap
TT #39 - Trailside help: Broken Shift Cable
TT #40 - Installing a Fox Float Air-Volume Spacer
TT #41 - Replace the Seals on Your 2011 RockShox Boxxer World Cup Fork
TT #42 - Clean and Lubricate Your Fox F32 Dust Wiper Seals
TT #43 - Thread Locker Basics
TT #44 - Install a SRAM X.0 Two-By-Ten Crankset
TT #45 - VPP Suspension Bearing Service
TT #46 - Rotor Straightening
TeT #47 - Finding and fixing that creak
TT #48 - Bleed and Service Magura Marta Disc Brakes
TT #49 - Cup and Cone Hub Basics
TT #50 - Install and Adjust Pedal Cleats
TT #51 - Cup and Cone Hub Rebuild
TT #52 - Converting Mavic Crossmax SX Axles
TT #53 - Cassette Removal and Installation
TT #54 - Cane Creek AngleSet Installation
TT #55 - American Classic Tubeless Conversion
TT #56 - Wider Rims Are Better and Why Tubeless Tires Burp Air
TT #57 - Pedal Pin Retrofit
TT #58 - Bleed RockShox Reverb Remote Lines
TT #59 - Cutting Carbon
TT #60 - Silence That Squeaky Disc Brake
TT #61 - Five Minute Wheel True
TT #62 - Removing Bike Rack Rattle
TT #63 - Inside Shimano's Shadow Plus Mech and How To Adjust It

Visit Parktool.com to see their entire lineup of tools and lubes
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75 Comments

  • + 55
 Personally I always make sure to leave at least a small spacer above the stem as well. This ensures that 100% of the clamping area is uniformly distributed along the stem-steer tube interface. The method shown above, where you end up leaving 2-3mm of stem not gripping at any steer tube, is not ideal.
  • - 31
 wait... but how would adding a spacer above the stem eliminate the 2-3mm of unused clamping area? they've already tightened the top cap. unless you mean that the "settling in" period will account for more than 2-3mm.
  • + 4
 In the photo for step 2 you could add a spacer on top of the stem and then tighten it as normal. This would mean that all of the stem grips steerer tube, making for the most secure fit. In step 3 the top ~3mm of step isn't gripping anything and the top cap will press directly on the stem. While this does look neater I'm like the OP in that I don't run it like that.
  • + 18
 That's crap. The 5mm of steerer below the top cap bolt length has been THE INDUSTRY STANDARD for twenty plus years now including from the actual inventors of threadless headsets in the first place, DiaCompe USA/Cane Creek (same company, different operating business names over the years). In all that time, nobody has ever lost a stem, or destroyed a steerer because 2-3 mm of the steerer tube wasn't fully covered by the stem clamp area... unless the mechanic doing the assembly was such a total hack as to forget to tighten the stem steerer clamp/wedge bolts properly after tightening down the top cap in the first place.
In fact, many stems which run internal wedge setups to grip the steerer tube tightly concentrate the forces into a very small section of steerer tube and they've operated fine and safely that way for about as long as threadless headsets have been around.
  • - 1
 Didn't tioga introduce the "ahead set"
I am being picky though your bang on. That little gap has been pretty much standard for ever and I would imagine every manufacturer accepts it as such
  • + 27
 So because something's been a standard for 20 years, means it can't be done better?
  • + 6
 The method described by sixkdollars is the new industry standard for racing bikes with carbon steerer tubes. I often run a small spacer above my stem too. it also helps if you change some components or when you sell your bike you still have small room for adjustments
  • + 6
 Absolutely. It leaves room for a higher stem if you were to change it down the road.
  • + 8
 Tioga invented "oversized" headsets, aka 1 1/8 size in response to Gary Fisher's Evolution size (1 1/4"). Neither of those actually filed for a patent on the steerer/headset size. DiaCompe invented and patented threadless headsets though, and the patent revolved around the split-lip collar used to preload the bearings. They also trademarked the term Aheadset at the same time. Chris King, Shimano and a few other moron companies refused to license the patent ( (and DiaCompe was pretty much open to licensing it to everybody) though which is why some people got stuck with headsets with O-rings to grip the steerer or no headset options at all other than threaded models from the brands they happened to like at the time.
  • + 2
 @sixkdollars i absolutely agree with you.
  • + 7
 I agree with the above comments recommending a small spacer on top. It may not look as clean, but I like the idea of having the full clamp of the stem on the steerer. With carbon stuff, I would think that this is a must.

or you could get one of these :-)
bikefat.com/straitline-quickie-stem
  • + 2
 sometimes leaving as much as 10mm over has helped me try different stems and bar rises at times before I decide on a particular set-up. with options like angle-sets around it helps to ride it a bit for me. not so much on a new fork (well, longer travel) but usually a new different frame.
  • + 3
 on a steel steerer fork it's better to leave 2-3 mm above the stem and use a small spacer ... especially if you're using a wedge type of stem. i've seen a lot of steerers crushed like this. the wedge in the stem crushes the steerer right at the end .... making it useless.
  • + 2
 Leaving extra steerer above the stem is all about versatile/resale, there is nothing to worry about when it comes to strength if you're within specifications. The steerer is going to be stressed at the fulcrums. If it breaks it would likely be at the bottom of the stem or the headset cups. A few mm at the top of the stem has negligible impact on the system's strength. You're far more likely to get injured from the protrusion then you are to brake a steerer.

If this wasn't the case, you'd see stem manufactures bragging about how tall there stems are. Wink
  • + 3
 sixkdollars, i do the same thing. a spacer on top of the stem to make sure the stem is clamped onto the steerer tube 100%.
  • + 1
 Depends on the stem, if it's a split one (i.e Renthal stem) then adding one on top is essential!
  • + 1
 Word. Spacer above the stem. Full clamping force by both pinch bolts and etc. All my bikes are set up like this.
  • + 1
 It's really simple. Whatever product you buy follow the manufacturers guidelines
  • - 1
 The fact that there are people in society who require a full how-to guide to cut a steerer tube scares me...
[Reply]
  • + 22
 Their's nothing like a long steerer tube and lots of spacers!
  • + 27
 There's nothing like a crushed sternum!
  • + 12
 It's all about the resale value!
[Reply]
  • + 10
 "Determining the correct fork steerer tube length is one of the most crucial tasks that can be done on a bike."
For me this article completely fails to explain WHY this would be "one of the most crucial tasks". It explains well what to do and how. But why you do this?! Who has to do this?! When do you do this?! These are the main questions that make people read an article.

"While this Tech Tuesday shows you how determine the correct steerer tube length, it doesn't take into account your preferred handlebar height position."
Regardless of steerer tube height, THAT is something I can imagine a lot of people would like to see a tech on! Apparently knowledge about handlebar height is prerequisite for the procedures in this article. Yet there is nothing to help you with that, nor a link to some info. If there is a tech on that, I couldnt find it.
  • + 1
 The fit of your bike is such a personal thing, depending on riding style, and your own preferences and ability. I understand that they didn't have enough space in this article to go deeply into that subject. Perhaps it is something best worked out between you local bike shop if you are having determining the stem height for your bike.
[Reply]
  • + 12
 Great! Now people are going to come into the shop with too short of steer tubes and ask us if we can fix them...
  • + 6
 Certainly sir, all you need is a new CSU for $$$$, seeing as we'll have to strip the forks we might as well service then at the same time for an extra $$$$. Your bike will be ready to collect in about 3 months, we'll give you a call when it's ready. Good day sir.
  • + 1
 exactly....the example sux as it is cut too short. If you have an expensive fork that is used on a new frame you may be shit outa luck with a short steerer. I always use a top and bottom spacer.
[Reply]
  • + 8
 I don't think that cutting the steerer tube of a perfect length is that crucial, adding one or two spacers is not harmful and I like to have a margin for error. The crucial think is not to cut it too short...
[Reply]
  • + 3
 Something else to consider is brake lever positioning. If you have them pointing down to any degree it's worth making sure they clear the top tube when the bars spin (just in case you bin it in style and the bars get spun around with force). This usually goes hand in hand with a slightly longer steerer tube length and higher stem position courtesy of spacers. Which is good for creaky old backs like mine and fork resale value Smile
[Reply]
  • + 3
 Good Tech Tuesday. There have been many posts in the mechanics forum that can be addressed by this. I would add that, as much as the perfect length looks pro, if you are wanting to sell your fork or complete bike later, keep the steerer tube longer so it fits more people and more bikes.
  • - 1
 Yea I was wondering about it... who the hell who pays for his forks, frames and headsets with his own money, cuts the steerer as above? I think it is stupid to leave like 5cm left and I see many c*nts riding like that, but still 2-3 cm is fair enough! Especially since these days you can buy any spacers in any size and any colour.
  • + 6
 I do. I am such a stupid cunt.
  • + 2
 Not even for just resale purposes, if you want to swap the fork onto a different bike it can be useful to leave a little extra. I leave mine long enough to fit the longest headtube frame I have. Some of my bikes end up with one or two 10mm spacers on top, but I have the option of moving parts around without worrying about steerer length.
  • + 1
 Yikes! 5cm is pretty big. That would be pretty stupid to leave that much. I would do 5mm maximum.
[Reply]
  • + 2
 There should be a large print disclaimer towards the top explaining the down side to cutting a steer tube to an exact height. It looks nice and functions just as well as having the steer tube come all the way through the stem but it will make reselling the fork or even the bike as a whole more difficult and will most likely impact the price you can get on the used market. like the bike he is installing it on i would consider to be a on the short side of head tube lengths for frames manufactured in the past 2-3 years and even on that bike he has not left enough steer tube to adjust the bar height for a possible future owner.
  • + 1
 See I don't like to base my riding or bike setup around some lame "oh well I'm just going to sell the bike/fork because I'm fickle and have to have the NEW wonder thing each year" type mentality. When I built my Salsa Mukluk a couple weeks ago, I measured where I wanted the bar height/grip position to be, picked a stem and bar that put me where I wanted for reach, and then cut the steerer down accordingly. I'm not concerned about the resale in the slightest as I almost never resell the bikes from my personal collection. I still have my first Rocky Mountain Stratos, which I bought in March 1992.
  • + 2
 This is very true but i can give you an example where its a pain to do so. i cut my lyriks to suit my tomac vanish and then decided that i wanted to put a different pair of forks on. So i moved the old lyriks to my orange, not really thinking about steerer length, only to find that i now have to run them on the orange with very little stack which puts the bars a bit too low for my liking. 10-20mm left on the steerer and it would have suited both bikes without issue.

As for the argument of a broken sternum from the steerer, come on man your gonna be in a crash to do that and whose to say you wouldnt break your sternum on the stem or if you come off and land on your pedal or even worse hit a rock or tree or other object on the trail ?
  • + 1
 It does tend to encourage stem pads though...unless you enjoy sacking yourself on an endo.
  • + 2
 On the note of not selling your gear or bike every season you should have extra steer tube there for adjustment. Look at all the pro's on the DH circuit on really steep tracks they raise their bar height and only small amounts of height increase can be achieved through direct mount spacers if you are lucky enough to have access to properly made ones or stem selection it self. Both those options cost money to have on hand. If you want to raise the bar height by more then 5-6mm you are going to need that extra steer tube.And further more my message had nothing to do with having the latest and greatest. If you are lucky enough to keep all your previous bikes good for you but it doesn't mean some 16 year old kid that had to get a job to get his bike can afford to hold on to every bike he will ever own. I get your point but i don't appreciate you detracting from the importance of my message. The reason i posted this was for the younger riders out there that are not fortunate enough to be able to keep all their previous rides and so they don't make the mistake of short changing themselves in the future.
[Reply]
  • + 2
 Shouldn't recommendations for what to use to actually cut the steer tube be included in here? The best way, getting it straight, filing off burrs and marking the cut line. I don't know.....it just might be me but I think that's one of the most critical steps.....
[Reply]
  • + 4
 @justincs....

It seems that syphilis might have come from the Americas....

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Syphilis#History

Who knew eh?

;-)
  • + 1
 haaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahahahahaha.....that's funny eh!
  • + 1
 But I got it in London............I mean my FRIEND got it in London!!!
[Reply]
  • + 1
 i just stack on spacers & leave all my steer tubes about 7 3/4, that way when i sell my fork it still holds value. but if you've cut your steer tube too short, i have the solution for that as well... check out my buy/sell, my HIT-N-RUN designs AXIS DM is the ticket!!
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Looking at buying a Fox shock with a short tube length (6.5") how short can I go with a new headset and less spacers. the current length is 7 7/8. I figure the new tube would come up about 1.5 inches. I know my geometry would change but not so much as its and upgrade from a 4" Fox Float to a 5.5 Talus. u all seem to be in the know.
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Soo much un neccisary measuring going on Frown

just bolt it all up so theres as little headrock as possible. then measure how much steerer is sticking up above the point you want it at. draw a line with perminant pen all the way around (dont worry about getting it on stuff, comes off easy with white spirit) then you have your cut mark. no un nessisary measuring rubbish. you know that you wont cut it too short this way too (unless your incredibly stupid)

Salute
[Reply]
  • + 1
 the first people to use a threadless steerer system was PACE cycles UK, shame they didn't patent it. They started off with a campag headset upside down and built a stem steerer unit. the bolt was under the crown on the suspension fork.
  • + 1
 ENGLISH where everything really starts
  • + 4
 like...........syphilis ??
  • + 3
 Concentration camps as well...

Good job England. Good job. Wink
  • + 0
 Apart from correct grammar apparently Smile
  • + 0
 dingus if you don't like england why don't you just leave! support alex salmond!
  • + 1
 Yes...the english invented everything but didn't patent it... and apparently didn't read the bicycle trade journals or attend the bike shows either because Pace wasn't building suspension forks yet when DiaCompe USA invented the threadless headset and was already selling it to manufacturers.
  • + 1
 Where did I say I don't like England? I just don't like stupid statements. Or Alex Salmond Razz
  • + 1
 I think back in the day pace had the most versatile range of steerers of any manufacturer. Still pretty sure tioga introduced the ahead set. don't want to dowse your diacomp fury
  • + 1
 Nope... Tioga had a licensed version though, called the Alchemy series. The Aheadset patent btw, expired in Sept of 2010, so now any headset maker can produce threadless headsets with the much better split-collar bearing preload method if they'd get off their lazy arses and do so (coughkingcough).

www.bikepro.com/products/headsets/tioga_hset.html
  • + 2
 Actually, the Scot's have given much more to the world than the English! I'm not anti English or anti anybody - just proud of my country. Bring on Scottish Independance
  • - 1
 nuh uh. whiskey/the bicycle (obviously fairly major on this site!) and that's it mate! whereas....

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_English_inventions_and_discoveries

but yes, bring on scottish independence
  • + 1
 I stand corrected at should at least google before I comment Smile
  • + 2
 TV, Pneumatic tyres, Telephones, Penicilin, Insulin, Steam engines, Radar, Tarmac, Bicycles, Golf, Anaesthetic, Regrigerators! Need I go on? Not anything that important from the English really
  • + 3
 O yeah ! We invented retractable beer carton holders and table hockey and tracer shells EH!!
[Reply]
  • + 1
 So I did just that ! Everything you said , BUT my front end creaks like a u ( know what ) ! So what can I do to stop the creaking noise ? Besides turing up my I pod ! Anybody read this messsage me with any help ! Cheers peace and ride hard or ride home alone !
  • + 1
 It is likely that if your front end is creaking it's going to be something to do with your headset (Bearings) more than anything.
[Reply]
  • + 1
 That's the way me and my friends always cut the steerer tube. It has worked for a long time now, and it sure will work many years later. Cheers.
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Whatever you decide to do with your steerer tube length, one small piece of advice. Measure twice cut once. Friends don't let friends, their steerer tubes too short.
[Reply]
  • + 1
 in my bike i have the spacer above the stem and not below... gives me more confort and control on riding
[Reply]
  • + 1
 I always leave a little extra for a top spacer - in case you want to sell or change things later on :/
[Reply]
  • + 1
 maybe you could do something about pedal maintenance or to change the bearings or spheres on the pedals
[Reply]
  • + 1
 @dirtworks911

Think positive, see that as a business opportunity.
[Reply]
  • + 1
 The first 3 words of the artical = ROFL "Length is everything"
  • + 4
 yea it is suspicious... the first letters form a word LIE Smile

P.S. Aaaaaa you meant your giggly concern about pehnis
[Reply]
  • + 0
 not enough tools hanging on the wall behind the bike --- this whole article must be fake
[Reply]
  • + 1
 How much would a 1/18 steerer tube cost ?
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Cane creek own threadless patent?
[Reply]
  • + 1
 mmmm steerer tube
[Reply]

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