Tech tuesday - RockShox BoXXer TLC

Feb 21, 2012 at 0:05
Feb 21, 2012
by Mike Levy  
 
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Easy TLC
Is your BoXXer feeling a touch sticky? Doing a complete rebuild of your BoXXer, while not difficult with with the proper tools and good instructions, can be intimidating for a lot of riders. Thankfully, the BoXXer's internal layout that completely separates damping and lube oil allows riders to easily perform minor maintenance like dropping the lowers to give them a good cleaning, or change seals, without having to jump right into a full on damper rebuild. While we'll show you how to replace the BoXXer's damping oil in an upcoming Tech Tuesday, today we are going to cover the basics: fork lowers removal, cleaning and greasing, and reassembly. This can also be tied into seal replacement as well, although it is often the case that the fork seals are just fine but some new lube oil and grease within the lowers can make all the difference in the world.

Some helpful pointers
• We've used a BoXXer World Cup in the photos below, but the same basic steps can be applied to the current R2C2 and R2 models, as well as the older Team and Race versions. Note that other BoXXer models may use a different adjuster knob assembly at the bottom of the damping side leg, requiring a slightly different removal method.
• You'll be removing the high and low speed rebound knob assembly before pulling off the lowers - be careful not to lose the washer, c-clip, or small 2mm hex bolt.
• More grease and lube oil on top of what is recommended will not keep your fork running smoother for longer. In fact, the extra lube will likely be forced out through the fork seals and cause a large, dust attracting mess.
• As with any repair, if you don't have the right tools, or don't feel comfortable doing the job, you are much better off taking the fork to your local shop instead.
• We are not pictured wearing Nitrile gloves in the photos below, but it is certainly a good idea to wear some. This is especially true if you work in a shop and will be getting your hands oily on a regular basis. Eye protection is also recommended, especially when spraying any cleaning solvents.
• As always, follow RockShox's torque values - Maxle: 50in/lbs, crown bolts: 65in/lbs, foot bolts (damper and spring side): 65in/lbs


Tech Tues
Step 1 - Remove the Maxle by turning the non-drive side 6mm hex until it no longer clicks, then use the same 6mm hex key on the drive side to turn it out of the fork and remove the front wheel. Give the Maxle a quick wipe and put it somewhere where it won't pick up any dirt. The brake caliper is taken off easier once the front wheel is out of the way, but be sure to keep track of any washers that may be present.
Tech Tues
Step 2 - Take a quick measurement with a ruler or tape of how high the stanchion tubes sit above the top crown. The goal is to reinstall your fork to the exact same hight after you've serviced it. Write down the measurement, and then loosen all four lower crown bolts, as well as both upper crown bolts, with a 4mm hex key.
Tech Tues
Step 3 - Use one hand to pry an edge of the fork bumpers away from the stanchion tube while giving them a quick squirt of isopropyl alcohol with the other. This will free them up enough to slide them up and off of the top of the stanchion tubes. You can now carefully slide the fork out of the crowns and off of the bike.
Tech Tuesday
Step 4 - Give the fork a good cleaning once you have it off of the bike and inspect the lowers for any damage. Because you are not servicing either the damper or spring side you do not have to release the fork's air pressure (this only applies to the World Cup model. At this point RockShox recommends gently clamping the upper section of the one stanchion tube in a bike repair stand, but we far prefer to do the job on a workbench instead.
Tech Tues
Step 5 - It is now time to remove the high and low speed rebound adjuster knobs to allow access to the damper side foot bolt. Our fork requires a 2mm hex key to loosen the bolt holding the outer knob in place, but other model year forks may use a c-clip instead. If your's requires a 2mm hex key, be careful to ensure that it is fully engaged to prevent rounding out the aluminum bolt as you loosen it. If your fork has a c-clip, use a pick and small sized flat blade screwdriver to push it out. The c-clip may pop free suddenly and go flying, so go slow. Pull the outer knob off, making sure to also note the thin black washer under it, and place it in a safe spot.

Use a 24mm open ended wrench to turn the large aluminum foot bolt counter clockwise until it is free, then thread it back in three to four turns after you've removed the crush washer and retainer. Proper thread engagement is key because you will be striking the bolt to free the damper shaft's press fit into the bottom of the lower leg.
Tech Tues
Step 6 - With the damper side foot bolt threaded in three to four turns, place the open end of a 12mm socket against it and strike the socket with a plastic mallet. It may take a few hits until you see the foot nut bottom on the outside of the lower casting, signalling that the damper shaft is likely free. You can now remove the foot bolt completely.
Tech Tuesday
Step 7 - Take a minute to properly clean the adjusters and hardware of any dirt and grime. Note that your hardware may look slightly different depending on the model year of the fork.
Tech Tues
Step 8 - The next step is to loosen the spring shaft foot bolt. Use a 5mm hex key to turn it counterclockwise three to four turns, then strike the bolt with the same plastic mallet to knock the shaft free from the lower leg. Completely remove the bolt and position the fork vertically over a drain pan (an old Tupperware container is perfect) to let the old lubrication oil drain out of the foot nut holes in the lower leg assembly. Cycling the stanchion tubes up and down a few inches will encourage it to drain out as well.
Tech Tuesday
Step 9 - With the fork still upright and over the drain pan, pull both stanchion tubes up and out of the lower legs and set them down on a clean section of the work bench. At this point most of the oil should have drain out of the fork legs, but place them on top of a rag to catch any drips.
Tech Tues
Step 10 - Give the stanchions a good cleaning with a lint free rag and a few sprays of isopropyl alcohol. Inspect them thoroughly, checking for any dings or scratches that may damage the fork seals or bushings. You can also cycle the damper rod into the stanchion tube to check for any issues (we'll cover damper rebuild in an upcoming Tech Tuesday). Now is also the time to take a close look at the crush washers that are under each foot bolt. It is a good idea to replace them each time that you remove the bolts, but that rarely happens out in the real world. If they are cracked in half, or completely crushed, you should install new ones as they also help to seal the lubrication oil into the lower legs.
Tech Tues
Step 11 - The most time consuming, but also the most important, part of the job is up next: cleaning the inside of the lower legs. We use a brush that has been designed specifically for the job (it's just a soft, tubular shaped brush on a long handle), but an old rag on the end of a plastic or wood rod also works just fine. We recommend never using a long screwdriver to force the rag down into the fork, as it can easily scar one of the bushings.

Spray a good amount of isopropyl alcohol down into one side of the lowers, followed by a scrubbing with your brush or rag. Repeat a few times on each side of the fork, and then give the insides a visual inspection. The bushings should be free of any grime, and there shouldn't be any old gunk pooled at the bottom of the casting - it will only cycle around inside the fork after your rebuild, negating the new grease and lube oil. Make sure that the rubber disc bottom out bumpers are still seated at the bottom of each leg.
Tech Tuesday
Step 12 - Your cleaning isn't finished yet! Use a clean rag wrapped over a finger to wipe both the oil and dust seals free of any gunk. Now is also the time to inspect the seals for damage - look for tears in the seal lips, or worn sections that would allow dirt in and oil out. Remember that the better you clean, the smoother your freshly rebuilt fork will run.
Tech Tuesday
Step 13 - Once you are satisfied with your sparkly clean fork it's time to give the oil and dust seals a coating of grease. Applying massive globs of grease isn't going to help anything - it will just get displaced down into the bottom of the fork lowers. Instead, apply a thin coating to both the inner oil seal (usually black coloured within BoXXer forks) and the inside lip of the dust seal. A dab of grease spread around the upper bushing will help as well. Most grease with a Teflon element to it is fine to use, but stay away from Lithium based option as they are said to be corrosive to the fork's seals.
Tech Tuesday
Step 14 - The next step is to reinstall the stanchion tubes into the fork lowers. Remember that the damping side leg is on the riders right, while the spring side leg is on the left. The very bottom of the stanchion tubes feature a slight taper to them that helps you to slide them past the dust seal without causing any damage, although you still needs to be very careful at this point. It can help to start the insertion at a slight angle, setting one portion of the stanchion tube past the seal only a few mm before the rest. Keep an eye on the entire circumference of the seal as you insert the stanchion, making sure that the bottom of the tube doesn't pull the seal lip in and tear it. Slide both tubes in until the damper and spring rods bottom on the casting, then pull them back out a few inches to allow the lube oil to be put in. Inspect the seals once both stanchion tubes are in.
Tech Tuesday
Step 15 - With both stanchions in, tip the bottom of the fork up so it sits at 45 degrees. Use a syringe to push 10ml of 15wt fork oil in through the shaft holes (where the foot nuts tighten into the damper and spring shafts) in the bottom of the fork casting. Although different weight fork fluid will work just fine, you don't want to use much more than the recommended 10ml of fluid because it will only make a mess as it is forced past the fork seals. If you don't have a measured syringe you can think of 10ml as being two teaspoons worth of fluid.
Tech Tues
Step 16 - With the bottom of the fork still at an up angle, compress the stanchion tubes enough so that both the damper and spring rods bottom within the fork lowers. Thread the spring side foot bolt in place after putting a dab of grease on bolt threads (this will allow you to unthread it easier down the road), tightening it to 65in/lbs. Bottom the damper side stanchion, holding it down as you thread the greased damper side foot bolt assembly clockwise, tightening it to 65in/lbs with a 24mm open ended wrench. Do not over-tighten the foot damper side foot bolt; it is aluminum and can be damaged if overdone.
Tech Tuesday
Step 17 - Reinstall the ending stroke rebound knob, washer, and beginning stroke rebound knob onto the rebound adjuster shaft. You may have to push down on the rebound assembly to access the retaining clip groove, or to get the outer knob to fully engage the hex fitting. If your adjusters are held in place with a 2mm hex bolt, thread it back in place carefully.
Tech Tuesday
Step 18 - Thoroughly clean the outside of the fork, paying special attention the assembly grease buildup around the seals - any extra grease will only attract grit and cause a mess. Compress both stanchion tubes a few times, re-wiping the seal area each time until no grease residue remains after you compress the stanchions.
Tech Tuesday
Step 19 - Give the inside clamping surface of the crowns a wipe and a thin coating of grease before reinstalling the fork tubes, then you can slide them up into place to the correct height (you took the measurement at the beginning, right?). Reinstall your brake caliper, front wheel, and double check all bolts before hitting the trails.


Do you have something to add to Mike's quick BoXXer TLC guide? Put it down below!


Past Tech Tuesdays:
TT #1 - How to change a tube.
TT #2 - How to set up your SRAM rear derailleur
TT #3 - How to remove and install pedals
T #4 - How To Bleed Your Avid Elixir Brakes
TT #5 - How To Check And Adjust Your Headset
TT #6 - How To Fix A Broken Chain
TT #7 - Tubeless Conversion
TT #8 - Chain Wear
TT #9 - SRAM Shift Cable Replacement
TT #10 - Removing And Installing a Headset
TT #11 - Chain Lube Explained
TT #12 - RockShox Totem and Lyric Mission Control Damper Mod
TT #13 - Shimano XT Crank and Bottom Bracket Installation
TT #14 - Straightening Your Derailleur Hanger
TT #15 - Setting Up Your Front Derailleur
TT #16 - Setting Up Your Cockpit
TT #17 - Suspension Basics
TT #18 - Adjusting The Fox DHX 5.0
TT #19 - Adjusting The RockShox BoXXer World Cup
TT #20 - Servicing Your Fox Float Shock
TT #21 - Wheel Truing Basics
TT #22 - Shimano Brake Pad Replacement
TT #23 - Shimano brake bleed
TT #24 - Fox Lower Leg Removal And Service
TT #25 - RockShox Motion Control Service
TT #26 - Avid BB7 Cable Disk Brake Setup
TT #27 - Manitou Dorado Fork Rebuild
TT #28 - Manitou Circus Fork Rebuild
TT #29 - MRP G2 SL Chain Guide Install
TT #30 - Cane Creek Angleset Installation
TT #31 - RockShox Maxle Lite DH
TT #32 - Find Your Tire Pressure Sweet Spot
TT #33 - Three Minute Bike Preflight Check
TT #34 - MRP XCG Install
TT #35 - Stem Choice and Cockpit Setup
TT #36 - Handlebars - How Wide Affects Your Ride
TT #37 - Repairing A Torn Tire
TT #38 - Coil spring swap
TT #39 - Trailside help: Broken Shift Cable
TT #40 - Installing a Fox Float Air-Volume Spacer
TT #41 - Replace the Seals on Your 2011 RockShox Boxxer World Cup Fork
TT #42 - Clean and Lubricate Your Fox F32 Dust Wiper Seals
TT #43 - Thread Locker Basics
TT #44 - Install a SRAM X.0 Two-By-Ten Crankset
TT #45 - VPP Suspension Bearing Service
TT #46 - Rotor Straightening
TeT #47 - Finding and fixing that creak
TT #48 - Bleed and Service Magura Marta Disc Brakes
TT #49 - Cup and Cone Hub Basics
TT #50 - Install and Adjust Pedal Cleats
TT #51 - Cup and Cone Hub Rebuild
TT #52 - Converting Mavic Crossmax SX Axles
TT #53 - Cassette Removal and Installation
TT #54 - Cane Creek AngleSet Installation
TT #55 - American Classic Tubeless Conversion
TT #56 - Wider Rims Are Better and Why Tubeless Tires Burp Air
TT #57 - Pedal Pin Retrofit
TT #58 - Bleed RockShox Reverb Remote Lines
TT #59 - Cutting Carbon
TT #60 - Silence That Squeaky Disc Brake
TT #61 - Five Minute Wheel True
TT #62 - Removing Bike Rack Rattle
TT #63 - Inside Shimano's Shadow Plus Mech and How To Adjust It
TT #64 - Steerer tube length
TT #65 - Marzocchi 44 Rebuild

Visit Parktool.com to see their entire lineup of tools and lubes
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113 Comments

  • + 57
 great job PB ! do the same instructions with a FOX 40 please^^
  • + 28
 Yeah and the same for 888, preferably RC3 EVO Wink
  • - 27
 ...And, if possible, for Monster forks!
  • + 3
 Yep for the 888 RC3 EVO too!!!
  • + 11
 LOL, they have done both Fox and Marzocchi! Here is Marzocchi 888 RC3 EVO: www.pinkbike.com/news/Team-CRCNukeproof-Tech-Sessions-MSA-Fork-Strip-Build-2011.html And here is Fox: www.pinkbike.com/news/technical-tuesday-fox-36-service-2010.html It's excactly the same for a Fox 40. And as he said, the damper service will come later.
  • + 6
 Fox's site has everything you need to know about all their forks
  • + 45
 can you do one for my rigid fork? feels a bit "stiff"...har har
  • - 23
 i hate boxxer rc's they feel rancid and need to be thrown off of a cliff .
  • + 6
 Next would be how to fix stanchion scratches and chips with epoxy.
  • + 11
 how to make my chrome stanchions gold? can i use this?

ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31eG3Db8CHL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
  • + 0
 Is it the best Idea to spray alcohol on rubber seals?? Dry them up and then they wont be worth a damn.
  • + 4
 fosters wont lube it mate
  • + 3
 fosters gold might though...
  • + 2
 thats what suntour would use..
  • + 1
 @chyu I hope they do, because I need to fix my dh2 lol
  • - 3
 stinky-deluxe-smith thankyou for showing us you have a penis... If you show it again we will call the police because nobody wants to see your short crooked penis for al else thankyou pinkbike for this just finished my DC domain and they feel better than new
  • + 3
 man, your wierd .. i dont know about your previous expieriences but i am not the kind to show my penis online.
and also i have the right to my opinion of boxxers and ive ridden 4 or 5 sets and they all feel horrible compared to 40's and 888s, i mean yeah they they're probably good for racing cause you get all your power down cause of theyre stiffness/solidness .. tbh im over reacting but im comparing them to even older fox and marzocchi which just feel nicer so theyre not going to be anymatch to a standard 888
  • + 1
 yes you have the right to your own opinion i have mine too but i dont shout and over react evry single time i see a rocco or CC DB that they are overpriced and over hiped you can say you don't like them and it that is it that is why i sayd you are showing your penis like a mentaly challeged person. Think before shouting on the internet thankyou for your description why you don't like them but have you owned one? and propperly set one up? it takes time i need almost 5 rides to set my fork up and even more for the rear shock so i don't hait on stuff before i havent riden them or read a lot of reawiews and owners i agree that marzocchi feels nice from the get go and well fox is fox there is almost nothing bad to say about thme altho they are expensive boxxer or the DC domain that is even cheaper and they preform extremly good for the buck but now i am offtopic and i am going to stop now.
[Reply]
  • + 6
 this service should be done right when you buy the fork. SOME boxxers are still coming with low oil levels. nice to do for a piece of mind and prolong the life of the fork. some people also will take a saw and cut the sides off on there 2010 red rebound knob. this way they can take it off as 1 unit with out playing with there rebound settings.
  • + 2
 Is your BoXXer feeling a touch sticky out of the box? Doing a complete rebuild of your BoXXer the day you bought it, while not difficult with the proper tools and good instructions, can be frustrating for a lot of riders, but surprisingly some people believe this is acceptable because it's a race fork. Thankfully, the BoXXer's virtually eliminate damping and lube oil from the factory which allows riders to use their own (or none) from day one, and perform major maintenance like dropping the lowers to give them a good cleaning, or change seals, without ever having to ride it first. Today we are going to cover the basics: fork lowers removal, cleaning and greasing, and reassembly. This can also be tied into seal replacement as well if you did the stupid thing and rode your new fork without putting oil in it first, although it is often the case that the fork seals are just fine because as a racer you know you should be completely rebuilding everything from the factory before you bother tucking your jersey into your sweatbox pants. Having some lube oil and grease within the lowers can make all the difference in the world.
  • + 1
 yeah..... im just saying. not my first bbq
  • + 1
 If you want to keep your boxxer feeling stick free buy a little bottle of shimano mineral oil and pull back the dust seals and drop a couple drops in there they feel brand new.
  • + 1
 Don't pull dust seals back or you could get dirt in seals. Just put a lil Judy butter on stanchions, push em down a few times and wipe off excess so dirt doesn't stick
[Reply]
  • + 7
 Thank you pinkbike. It looks like my Boxxer will get the love it so desperately deserves.
[Reply]
  • + 8
 Just got a WC, this is just what I need. Thanks a lot Mike. Salute
  • + 1
 Same here! This info will be great for when I need to do the first maintenance
  • + 1
 same! looks like a weekend project to me!
  • - 3
 is the same thing for the worl cup!!!?
  • + 1
 Uh, wacha mean? This IS the basic stripdown/clean/ oil change of THE Boxxer wc.
  • + 1
 worked like a charm after a sloppy day in the bike park. fork feels like new. thanks PB guys
[Reply]
  • + 3
 For an even smoother ride; mix up the 15 wt oil 50-50 with SRAM Redrum and the PM 600 Grease rock´s for greasing up seals and o-rings. And...don t forget to properly grease up the rebound adjustment assembly; it can pretty easily be disassembled completely for a full regrease. I never reuse the crushwasher on the springside on the Rock Shox forks...
  • + 1
 I am currently doing a rebuild on my Totem Coil, and am thinking of putting 5w oil in the lowers instead of the 15w called out in the service manual. Does anyone have any experience with this? Is it a bad idea? (PS, I am using synthetic motor oil)
  • - 1
 thinner oil will need a service sooner
  • + 0
 And you'll at least need 5w FORK OIL. I feel like using motor oil would be a really bad idea...
  • + 2
 Motor oil is fine for the bath; I actually find it a lot smoother than using fork oil. However, don't use it in the damper.
  • + 1
 What is the issue with using it in the damper? The reason I ask is that I have already completed the rebuild using the 5w motor oil throughout the fork and would like to figure out if I should replace it before riding season is upon us.
  • + 1
 The viscosity for motor oil won't be the same and it will likely be too thick. As a result, the fork may feel overdamped and dead
[Reply]
  • + 3
 Great tutorial! For those of you who have the c-clip holding on the rebound knobs - Step 5 will teach you the meaning of patience! That thing is a bitch to get off the first time!!

Check this Rock Shox video around the 45s mark:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9Xd4BQ2ghE
[Reply]
  • + 2
 Well very good tech tuesday, as im pretty good in servicing my bike i can do this and done this so many times when i had boxxer, but i guess most people would be happy to service his 2011-2012 888 RC3 Evo fork becouse there is absolutely no source of service manual after 2006, or a how to do video either, only just a ChainReactionCycles DH team's service guru video which is an okey source for me, but i guess it isn't okey for the others. Im also waiting for a dhx 5.0, dhx RC4, Bos Stoy and a Cane Creek Double barrel service. Anyway very good, and clean service for the Boxxer Forks! Congratulation!
[Reply]
  • + 1
 I just did this yesterday, and I like to remove the spring from the dust wiper. Then slide them up on the stanchion. put the stanchions through the seals, then slid the springs back down around the wiper seals. Makes it easier to get past the seals.
[Reply]
  • + 1
 When I remove brake calipers, I put one elastic band or o-ring across the ends of both bolt threads and it holds everything together as it dangles from the bars. The unused o-ring from a Fox air can rebuild kit is perfect for this.
  • + 1
 also avid do some plastic clips which the brake threads into so they're tight, speak nicely to your lbs
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Just serviced the lower fluid for first time on my boxxers and wondered why they were nocking when I put them back together. Thanks to this I realised I had to compress the damper completely and bolt the rebound control unit back on. Thanks TT sram didn't even document this on there instructions!
[Reply]
  • + 1
 R2C2 & RC require 40ml oil in the lower spring side (non-drive side) and 10ml in the lower damper leg (drive side). It's only World Cups (air) that require 10ml in each. See charts below.
www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/2011-rockshox-fork-oil-chart.pdf
www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000003511_front_fork_oil_chart_2012_0.pdf
Can you please update this Pink Bike.
[Reply]
  • + 1
 good write up but has no-one else just searched for the technical manual of boxxer forks, has all this in it plus the spring and damping assembly strip down.
cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/KGG14brdV8BvAwk2BhvGc0QigO4uQxFFkoBwClaFYg8/mtime:1372788172/sites/default/files/techdocs/2011-boxxer-r2c2-technical-manual.pdf
this is the one for the R2C2
[Reply]
  • + 1
 READ THIS READ THIS RAED THIS READ THIS :/

Controversy about the WC lowers being the same as Team

This service explanation needs to be edited to coincide with the one I attached, this is CRAP that Pink bike would post up misleading information and potentially destroy some poor guys fork!!!!!!

www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=95568
[Reply]
  • + 2
 why would anyone want to grease the stanchion/crown interface?? there not gona seize together and the stanchions are already slippry, wouldnt that be a bad thing??
[Reply]
  • + 1
 So when you do this service all you do is the 15 ml on each side of the lowers?

I recall doing this service to my boxxer team and seemingly much more than the total of 30 mls came out?
I now have a 2012 boxxer race?
[Reply]
  • + 2
 Can anyone help me?? I have 2011 RockShox domain RC Dual Crown, the lowers look exactly the same as boxxers but is the service basically the same??

Grateful in advance Smile
  • + 2
 I have a 2011 RockShox domain RC Dual Crown, it is pretty much the same but obviously less knobs and dials to remove so a bit easier. I would check on SRAM website to get the oil volume in each leg as from memory I think it's different. Easy to do and definitely worth it.
  • + 1
 Mine haven't been touched since new lol. Might give it a go, the rebound adjuster looks slightly different to get past as well. Just one of those things you don't wanna f**k up but i suppose once i've done it once it'll be alright Smile cheers man
[Reply]
  • + 2
 Would this same process be applicable to 2011 Rocksohx Totem dh rc2's??????
  • + 2
 Essentially yes, but you need to look up the oil weights (it'll be a different amount in the lowers). SRAM have a bunch of technical videos on youtube, have a look and you might find what you're looking for.
  • + 2
 how much different would this be on the older model boxxers ?
  • + 3
 Go here for the oil weights and levels on Totems but the service is pretty much the same Smile

www.bike-components.de/bedienungsanleitungen/2011/rockshox/forks/rockshocks_technical-manual2007.pdf
  • + 1
 good question kev, anyone know if this is the same for 07 WC's?
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Wish i had newer '11 Boxxers so i didn't have to deal with that damn c clip!! - i find it even harder to get back in than off!!! Doing everything else is simples.
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Great article...but how often should I be performing this service on a Boxxer WC? Every park weekend...every month...a few times a season?
  • + 1
 Whenever the fork stops feeling just as good as it does right after service. Depends on your riding conditions.
[Reply]
  • + 3
 Very helpful article, thank you PB !
[Reply]
  • + 1
 To get the c-clip off in Step 5 - check out the following video from Rock Shox: (It takes patience the first time!!!)

www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9Xd4BQ2ghE
[Reply]
  • + 1
 hey there i have an old pair or boxxers, and i was wondering if they were the same set up the need to be filled but id like to rebuild them.thanks for your info very helpful
[Reply]
  • + 2
 what & where are the crush washers?
[Reply]
  • + 2
 no use of torque wrenches?
[Reply]
  • + 2
 They did a WC version a while back, cant they do a team one?
  • + 3
 Servicing a boxxer team follows the same pattern, all you have to do is to use more oil to the spring side...
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Where is the video?????????

... you don't expect me to read all of this do you?? Frown
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Can someone please tell me where to buy isopropyl alcohol in that kind of can? Anywhere online where they sell it?
  • + 1
 cameron you goon. buy the 90%+ isopropyl from any grocery store pharmacy.. then you buy an empty spray bottle.
  • + 1
 I was just wondering if there was a version in the spray paint can...but thank you Kurt
[Reply]
  • + 1
 You guys should do a Tech Tuesday on servicing an Argyle 409/RCT I think a lot of people would benifit from it
[Reply]
  • + 1
 I may be mistaken about the type of grease, but it looks like he is using white lithium grease on those poor dust wipers
  • + 3
 Finish Line Teflon (or im sure alternates) look like that as well Wink
  • + 1
 Slick Honey is another good product. Watch out which lithium grease you use - some of the automotive stuff is too sticky and your fork will have tons of stiction!
[Reply]
  • + 2
 can you do a tech tuesday for marzocchi 55rs please Smile
[Reply]
  • + 2
 for Travis triple intrinsic please ! Smile
  • + 1
 FR-Man, Zac the Manitou guy here. Since the Travis is an outdated fork, it likely won't be covered in a Tech Tuesday. That being said, when you are ready to service your fork just drop me a line and I will fill you in on all the important elements of the rebuild. I'll mention one thing right now that people the world over have gotten wrong on the Travis for YEARS- The comp rod ("Spring side") assembly stanchion-end-cap MUST be cleaned, red loc-tited and PROPERLY TORQUED. Most important part, next to performing the very same thing to the comp rod bolt that fastens the casting to the fork. If anyone recalls that image of the Travis lowers blowing off a bike mid-run- "CRITICAL TECHNICIAN FAILURE" (Say it in your best robot voice). Haha.
  • + 1
 Zac- Would you happen to know where I can get my hands on a spring rod for my travis 180 tpc+ forks. The previous owner had them lowered to 160mm and I would like to increase the travel again.

The distributors have none here in the UK.

If there aren't any around, do you recon it would be possible to have one custom machined?
  • + 1
 I'll get back to you on that right away.
  • + 1
 Travis intrinsic is outdated but very very good fork Smile
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  • + 1
 Step 12 should be done inverted to prevent dirt from falling inside the lowers
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  • + 1
 one oicture say more that 1000 words but a movie says more than 100000 words Wink
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  • + 1
 greasing the inside of the triple clamp? no thanks
  • + 0
 What? Are you stupid or something? You should LIGHTLY grease the inside of the CROWNS (triple clamps? Why do people still insist on using that term?) where they clamp the stanchions... Basic common sense isn't it? Same reason why you LIGHTLY grease the handle bar/ stem/ steerer....
  • + 6
 you should NEVER grease the inside of any crown clamp on a fork, the steerer tube of a fork, or the clamps for steerer and face plate on a handlebar stem Wink


these surfaces are typically degreased using ISO alcohol which removes any traces of bike grease lubricant, dirt and greasy fingerprints

and then clamped in place "dry", with all bolts fitted using blue loctite and a calibrated torque wrench

using grease on safety critical clamps simply is bad practise as it provides a false torque reading when tightening (assuming you are even using a torque wrench..) and reduces friction between clamping surfaces, which is what gives the required clamping friction at the torque rating given by the manufacturer

the only fork element I would use any substance on (shimano anti-seize) is the fork axle (20mm or QR15mm) as this stops the axle becoming seized into the fork dropouts or hub axle during regular use, because it has no lubricant properties it does not affect torque settings

in fact, in situations where slightly poor tolerances allow a stem to rotate on a steerer tube despite given following torque setting, the opposite situation to using grease is true, we would use Finish Line Fibre Grip (carbon fibre installation paste which has abrasive particles) which actually allows us to increase clamping friction for the same given torque setting

some useful hints for you, from a professional bike workshop manager Wink
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  • + 1
 They forgot to tell you to remove the oil seals and put them in the bin
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  • + 1
 chhers i need to know how to do that
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  • + 2
 I want one of a totem.
  • + 2
 same for Totem m8 !
  • + 2
 The Totem one is pretty much the same with just the need to pop off the rebound knob instead of unscrewing it, then it really is the same, you just need to go here for the oil levels:

www.bike-components.de/bedienungsanleitungen/2011/rockshox/forks/rockshocks_technical-manual2007.pdf
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  • + 2
 service for dhx air 5.0?
  • + 1
 I think the rear shocks by fix have nitrogen inside of them. I heard fox has trained a few shops and are allowed to do this.
  • + 1
 this is true of the floats, but the dhx air shouldn't have any nitro in it.
  • + 1
 i think the nitrogen has something to do with the rebound but i might be taking rubbish here
  • + 1
 if you look is this thread the answer is no www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=80406
  • + 0
 Air is nearly 80% nitrogen anyhow, there isn't a huge difference between a nitrogen charge and an air charge. Any shock with a schrader fitting on the oil reservoir can be filled with air, and generally are at the factory.
  • + 1
 Jacko, you can easily service the air can but the damping mechanism is non-user serviceable. Have a look at Tech Tuesday #20.
  • + 1
 I have heard that nitro keeps the oil from foaming. I don't know if there is anything to that.
  • + 2
 the gas (nitrogen or air) is separated from the oil by a piston or bladder which is held against the oil by gas pressure. Nitrogen supposedly reacts faster , allowing the piston or bladder to move faster, but when's the last time your fox dhx got air in it when there wasn't an oil leak? Mine never have. I do have a float that needs service, and am wishing it could be done without ridiculous tooling..
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  • + 1
 Well I know what I'm doing tomorrow!
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  • + 1
 Can I get a tech Tuesday on how to ride a bike ? Thanks !
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  • + 1
 great tutorial... please, make the same article for servicing DHX Air
  • + 1
 You can find it on youtube. At least you can find the one for a fox float. And even on the fox site . . . .
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  • + 0
 Greasing the inside of the cllping surface?

I don't think I'd recommend that to anyone. I'll be skipping that step
  • + 8
 They will not slip, it doesn't work like that... It just makes removal a touch easier down the road if your clamps are tight, as well as possibly killing any chance of creaking. A light coating of grease (or anti-slip compound) on the inside of your stem's handlebar clamp can also reduce creaking if riding in dry/dusty conditions. There is zero harm.
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