The Lavaredo Killers

Jan 15, 2014
by Dan Milner  


THE LAVAREDO KILLERS
Story and Photographs by Dan Milner



A small pool of light illuminates the way ahead, but only just, shedding a circle of comfort halfway up a mountainside. To my left a waterfall gushes over a precipice. In the darkness it could be ten or it could be a hundred metres away. I take another careful step, loose limestone gravel slipping like ball bearings under my cleats. I hear the puffing of my two fellow riders nearby, disembodied presences in the night. My neck is craning under the weight of the bike on my back, I’m tired and the temperature is dropping in the night air. The half zip of my jersey, thankfully gaping open all day long in the heat, is now firmly zipped closed. And I’m hungry: breakfast seems a long time ago. It’s 10 p.m. and we still haven’t reached the top of this cursed Italian pass, the 2090m gateway to our night’s refuge on the other side. ‘Whose damn idea was this anyway?’ I curse. Then I remember it was mine. I bite my lip and plod onwards.

photo
  Josh and Rob reap the rewards of reaching the Forcella Grande pass with bikes

I’m a singletrack addict. So when shooting The North Face 2011 Lavaredo Ultra Trail running event, the Dolomites' abundance of sweet, snaking singletrack trails didn’t go unnoticed. Threading its way through 96 Km of some of Europe’s most majestic landscapes, the course for the LUT was just begging to be ridden on a bike. “It isn’t possible,” said the LUT organisers, people who admitted to not being mountain bikers themselves. It’s easy for non-riders to dismiss mountain bikers’ plans, never appreciating that so many of the world’s best singletrack can only be earned the hard way: pushing and carrying to its start. “You will kill yourselves,” says Chris.

photo
  Drinking water is never a problem. It helps dilute all the macchiatos

OK, so I admit to being a little foolhardy at times, and on this occasion glancing at the elevation profile of the LUT course had passed me by. I’ve been joined by British endurance mountain bike racers Rob Dean and Josh Ibbett, and planning to complete the 96 Km loop in two days we roll out of Auronzo town in high spirits beneath warm September sunshine. Then we begin the first 1600m climb. It’s steep and within half an hour we have our bikes slung over our backs, finally 5 hours later, emerging above treeline into the impact of 30 C heat. At the top, we ride across to the Lavaredo refuge for our planned lunchstop, some 3 hours later than anticipated. We consume a mountain of pasta beneath the mighty Tre Cime peaks. The climb has been steeper, tougher and taken longer than we expected but our reward is 1300m of descent almost entirely on singletrack, beginning with high alpine technical rock steps and finishing in fast, buff loamy forest trail. In between the trail leads us around the mountainside, but throws in some lung-punching little climbs too, just to keep us on our toes.

And then it gets dark.

photo
  Ok who brought the wrong shoes for a hike-a-bike? That will teach you for being young and fit and liking race shoes

We start the final climb of the first day, up to the Forcella Grande pass, way too late and with 900 vertical metres to scale, and with a leg-crushing 2000 metres already behind us that day, we’re toast. It’s as close as I’ve ever been to quitting on any of my bike adventures, but I’m kept on course by the stubbornness, or naievity, of Josh, a rider sporting the kind of build more typical of supermodel catwalks. “Quitting is not an option,” he says as if this was a Topgun sequel. Josh is half my age I remind him. Again.

At 11.15 we stumble down the last loose gravel strewn bit of trail to the door of our night’s accommodation, the San Marco refuge, rousing the hut’s caretaker to let us in and feed us soup. We wash it down with a carafe of red wine, partly in celebration, partly to try to numb the pain. I get the impression that they don’t see too many mountain bikers up here.

photo
  Three to a bed - the Italian way

Morning comes too soon, but the trail that greets us is a magnificent swooping traverse of the mountainside and we cover ground quickly. These are the trails that make the effort, the sweat, the blood and the tears worthwhile: rhythmic, flowing, easy pedalling. “Here, you have a problem,” our refuge host had told us stabbing at our map with a finger at breakfast. We reach the ‘problem’, the Forcella Piccola and gaze up at a loose, vertical trail. The scramble before us would be challenge enough to anyone appropriately shod with the most serious of hiking boots, let alone stiff, cleated bike shoes. The ‘problem’ takes us 30 minutes to scale, relaying our bikes to pass them up vertical ledges to each other.

photo
  A 1500m climb for this. If we had the energy left, we'd have appreciated the scenery more

All around us vertical peaks soar skywards. There is only one way out of here and that’s down, and we’re quickly focussed on the fast descent that brings us to the 21013m Galassi refuge for lunch. We rehydrate with copious amounts of tea (hey, we’re British), relishing the fact that we’re well over half way through our challenge. Our descent continues, leading us down another 900 vertical meters of beautiful singletrack until spitting us out at the valley floor to refill our packs’ reservoirs from the icy mountain stream.

With over 4000m of ascent behind us it’s with weary legs that we begin the final climb, a steep bike-carrying set of switchbacks. In the forest we’re sheltered from the heat of the sun, but the trees seem to cling onto the humidity. Talk turns to foods we’d like to eat now, a topic that always seems to arise when the going gets tough. Comfort talk I guess. We roll past the Ghiletto refuge and into a traverse that dips and dives around and down the mountainside.

photo
  The Tre Cime - one of life's little luxuries

Following the LUT route closely we’re led along a rutted, pock-marked cow trail, that leaves us cursing out loud. There is no-one else to hear our expletives. Emerging from the trees just as the sun dips behind the ridgeline we drop into the LUT’s final descent. It’s steep and damp and dark. With brakes literally steaming, finally we are flung out of the bottom of the trail at the Auronzo lakeside. Behind us is 24 hours of riding, hiking and bike carrying. It’s been tough and we’re filthy. Our gear has held up well to the rhythmic sweat-soakings and repeated drying in the sun, but beneath it we’re sporting that odour that only comes from climbing 5000 meters. Enormous effort sits behind us, but there have been ample rewards. Now tired, hungry and demolished we think of the winner of the LUT race, running the same route in 9 hours. We’re smiling, laughing even. “Yeah, but he didn’t have a bike on his back,” says Rob.

photo



Story and Photographs by Dan Milner





Author Info:
DanMilner avatar

Member since Feb 11, 2011
55 articles

52 Comments
  • 11 0
 Stunning photos - jaysus they're just amazing looking, I could stare at them all day Sounds like a torturous adventure, but looks like heaven-on-a-hill - well done lads!
  • 7 7
 After Pope Frank's recent speeches, you can say Jesus as often as you like. Enjoy that luxury of saying it in public before they poison him and the new guy takes it all back. And yes pictures are amazing! I wanted to go there since like ten years after reading the book about 6 Great North Faces of the Alps - Grande Cime is one of them.
  • 2 0
 Undoubtedly one of the most beautiful places on Earth.
  • 3 0
 If you didn't catch the moving image summary of this trip (also known as a video) then watch it here: www.pinkbike.com/news/Welcome-To-Hell-Lavaredo-Ultra-Trail-video-2013.html
  • 1 0
 Dan, we'd like you to come down to SA - Cape Town in particular and review some of our trails. It could make for a good video...Pretty cheap for Brits at the moment too.
  • 1 0
 Dan, If you come to Canada (again, if you have before). I can suggest some trails you might like. But you probably already know them all. I'm always down for some biking and can help with logistics if you need it. Just one question: after the grueling long bike trips and you have had a couple days to recover, does your health feel like a million bucks for at least a week?
  • 1 0
 It definitely does.. and you can eat like a horse without it showing. Canada... gotta put it on my list.
  • 5 1
 Finally some real mountain biking....this should be a normal occurrence if every bikers schedule where ever you live. Adventure is right outside your doorstep.
  • 8 0
 You're right there. I used to live in Bristol, UK and it was an adventure trying to get to the end of my street still with my bike, i can tell you.
  • 5 0
 you descend to 21013m where did you start from? the moon? Smile
  • 1 0
 Oops. I got to 'fess up and tell you that yes Red Bull did sponsor us and whisked us up with Baumgartner for a bit of extra vert. Nice.
  • 1 0
 Dan are your stills coming from your go pro or another camera? I love everything you put out and when I'm on a long climb and I want to stop or give up sometimes I think of a clever quote you would say about the trail and makes me laugh and keep spinning!! HAHAHA Your awesome, keep up the great work!!
  • 1 0
 Dan the photographs are amazing. The composition, lighting, juxtaposition of your subjects are very well done. This is very inspiring and making me wanna bring my camera out to create my own story. Did you guys specifically pick a time to shoot to get the optimum light?

Awesome job.
  • 1 0
 Thanks. While on many shoots we do head out for optimum (late) light, you got no choice on a mission like this. 12 hour days on the trail mean nailing what comes up and moving on. September is a great time to shoot in the Alps, as it is almost everywhere it seems. October even better. Here's to 6 month autumns!
  • 4 0
 Dramatic landscapes defined.
  • 1 0
 Dan -- Massive thanks for this story. Astonishing shots there, lung-opening themselves, full of light. Could you tell us about your gear on this trip -- bikes and setup?
  • 1 0
 Anyone live in this area that would be willing to ride this with me? I'm down for a trip during the summer of 2014. PM me if you are up for it!
  • 1 0
 Wonderful place/. Wish it was a tad more biking friendly and less bikes prohibited. But given the volume of hikers there perhaps its to be expected. Thanks for the hit
  • 1 0
 Ha funny, we didnt pass a single hiker on the trail in 2 days, just at the refuges. Yep you got to watch out for the no-bike parts and work a route that allows you without jeapardising our future as riders.
  • 1 0
 I'll take a photo of my sexy bike in the Dales for you tomorrow Dan. Any advice for a crick neck??? Ibuprofen aren't doing owt.
  • 2 0
 try to fall the other way next time and let it balance out.
  • 3 0
 It's My home
  • 2 4
 Two years ago I was flying over Alps from Poland to Milano with my sister in law to visit my friend and I saw Tre Cime from the plane, they are so characteristic. My sister in law moved to Trento two years ago. I thought to myself - how happy she must be to see that and call it "going home". Ehh... I really have to get my sht together and get that writing/drawing job to live whenever I want... I'm so sick of this drawing board and office desk
  • 4 0
 Keep dreaming WAKI, I don't think anyone would buy your book...
  • 4 0
 It's a long hard slog to get to a point where you actually make a living out of it. It's been my profession for 15 years and even now I only eat 3 times per week LOL.
  • 3 4
 Dan - yes I do suspect that, 10.000 hours they say... 10 times more time and effort it takes than you think they say... I just need to get some balls to make a career shift! 3 times a week? LUXURY! My graphic artist friend lives in a lake after refusing to follow a career of a web-designer!

Yippee-Ki-YayMF - says the man who also writes on the internet Big Grin If only men listened to people like you through the evolution of ours species then, who knows, maybe we would still be in the stone age - make no mistake, it might have been a good thing! Some anti-nuclear, vegan, pacifist fundamentalists fighting for ethical treatment of animals do enjoy that vision! An Australopithecus eaten by a giant tiger because he failed to dream! Because he listened to his friend Umfufu - wha' a ya dun? - I sa' a baeg taygah thy otha dae! I fough I can tae da me stick an´ sharpen the end of it with da sharp stone ouva thae! And punch thru dae bastad waeth ´em big teeth waeth it - wha? A stick? Ya bumpot! Thae ain' gonna wok!

A sudden death of a species that instead could destroy the earth by shopping in Walmart! All species of Earth breathing fresh air, no wars, no unemployment! tigers, lions, pumas developing into herbovouirs, living in communes with cows and squirrels, growing geneticaly unmodified soy from organicaly sanitized water plant, under wind power plant, riding bicycles to work, composting, not wasting anything - neanderthals in zoo warmed by underground heating, homo sapiens to see only as stuffed figures in museums built by mountain gorillas! Imagine there's no heaven, no hell and no religion too, Imagine if all the people... died 10 000 years agoooo uuuhu huuu huu uuuu
  • 1 0
 Waki you are off your head son, but I didn't half laugh at your ramblings have a good day, you put a smile on my face this morning
  • 3 0
 Wow. I actually am a vegan, pacifist, anti-nuclear dude (no kidding), and I really have no idea what you are going on about Waki.
  • 3 1
 Yea sorry, Im just tired. I spend a lot of time away from my body these days... Winter depression got me. So... Inthe alternative story of humanity Ugluk listened to Umfufu a d they were both eaten by the giant tiger. However in the actual story. Ugluk got angry and teTed the sharp stick on Umfufu. Seeing how well it went he went to find the tiger, killed it and since then Umfufu is PETAs hero
  • 3 1
 Dan - I have nothing against all those social groups I wrote about. They fell victim of making up a stupid joke trip on the internet by a fkng troll. In fact I say God bl... I say, it's great that there are more and more people eating less meat that cooks the place. About nuclear, well I am holding my thumbs up for passive reactors, no matter what military says - fk coal alright? Whatever status quo fkrs and hippies say The cleanest Watt of energy is the one that isn't used... Why the fk I just cannot stop writing this crap - help meee, kill meeeeer
  • 1 0
 That's OK Dan, none of us do.
  • 2 0
 the water there looks different
  • 1 0
 That were gert lovely Dan, and if you're ever back in Scotland I'll cook you a good square meal...
  • 1 0
 Square, round.. any which way you care so long as its veggie! Nice.
  • 1 0
 Somebody knows how to frame a mountain scene. Very good work Mr. Photographer, giving the scenes such depth and majesty.
  • 1 0
 Awesome story Dan... What sort of camera kit do you carry on an epic like this...pretty minimal I would imagine
  • 1 0
 yep,kind of. I typically use a Leica M9 digi rangefinder and 3 lenses.. a Zeiss 18mm/3.5, Zeiss 50/1.5 and Leica 90/2. It all packs up small but is still a little weighty. I have used this set up for most of the really remote or punishing trips from Nepal to India, Morocco and more.. its great image quality and is more discrete than a bulky SLR. Its not the most suitable set up for action photography - manual focus only and about 2 frames per sec, so you have to know what you're doing, but its way smaller than my SLR set ups and I've shot more than a few mag covers with it (and the M8 before that). The prime lens quality is better than most SLRs. That said I used the Nikon D600 for the recent Afghanistan Anthill/Bikemag trip with Hunter. I wanted the extra frame rate and longer lens capability (I carried Nikkor 70-200 f4, Zeiss 18/4, Nikkor 50/1.4) to get the most from Hunter's action. It starts to get a bit heavy with the other gear you need riding at 16,000ft though!
  • 1 0
 Thanks for your reply Dan...sorry it took me so long to notice :-]
Yes the Leica is a magic machine...my buddy in London shoots with a vintage 1950's model..calls it the "art maker". I was amazed at the weight of them...reeks of quality
I know you get used to the manual focus..I found it quite hard..cant imagine trying to focus on Hunter with how fast he goes...I guess he would be pretty good at hitting a mark :-)
  • 1 0
 Dear god. These photos....
  • 2 0
 Down here , very nice !
  • 1 0
 Another good story and not a clown in sight, cheers.
  • 1 0
 Must try harder...
  • 1 0
 riding in great locations as usual... Portugal still missing altough Smile
  • 2 0
 You are a tease.. OK I'll put Portugal n my list this year!
  • 2 0
 my beloved dolomites Smile
  • 1 0
 You are a lucky rider...
  • 2 0
 well i live in germany, so i can see the dolomites only during vacation. still, staying on the top of mt. grappa after 4 hours of climbing and 60 km of continuous downhill waiting for you, i would say it's one of the best sensations you can have Smile
  • 2 0
 Nice work Dan!
  • 1 0
 sweet!
  • 1 1
 I don't even...
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