American Classic founder and component designer Bill Shook poses
with his tubeless Wide Lightning wheel.
TO THE POINT: Bill Shook Talks About WheelsBY: Richard Cunningham
Pinkbike has been pushing for wider rims to enhance the performance of both cross-country and all-mountain trailbike wheels for some time. The trend is starting to take off, with a number of key players offering lightweight wheels laced to rims ranging from 30 to 40-millimeters wide. American Classic's Bill Shook has been experimenting for a number of years with incrementally wider rims, using a variety of tire combinations to discover where in the witch's brew of stainless steel, aluminum and rubber lies the optimum mixture of light weight, lower rolling resistance, better cornering, and overall wheel strength. We asked Bill to give Pinkbike a heads up on some of the issues involved in the quest for a better performing mountain bike wheel, and why wider may be better.
Where do you imagine the width of mountain bike rims and tires will end up, once tire makers join up with the concept?First off and most obvious, the tires need to fit through the frame. I don't think there is one ideal size for all applications. For cross-country racing, the ideal size is a 32-millimeter-wide rim like my Wide Lightning. I chose 32 millimeters after watching our pro riders in the US and Europe over the years. I started these riders with rim widths at 24 millimeters wide, then 26 millimeters, each with reductions in tire casing size and weight, Then I tried 28 millimeters with a subsequent reduction of tire casing size and weight. In watching this progression, I saw that the profile of the tire on the rim
(as a unit) was going more and more towards a half-circle shape
(hemispherical tire profile). I took it to its conclusion and the sweet spot is at 32 millimeters wide, as it is the maximum lightest casing with the best tire profile. If you go beyond that to, say, 36 millimeters wide, you get negative returns, because the shape of the tire on the rim exceeds the optimum hemispherical shape.
Bill designed his cross-country/trail rim
(top) to be wider
than his all-mountain/freeride rim
(bottom). Note the
short flanges and the grooves used to seal the beads.
Do you think that there are different design requirements for cross-country and all-mountain wheels? For all-mountain/freeride use, there is a need for increased air volume over cross-country racing use. Freeriders need more air volume in their tires to survive bigger hits from rocks, jumps and other obstacles at high speeds. The rims must also be thicker to survive these conditions. If the rims get too wide, they will get too heavy, decreasing overall bike performance and making them harder to ride uphill. Freeriders often ride uphill, unlike true DH riding, and observing our athlete's performance, I concluded and designed the American Classic All Mountain wheels to what I believe to be the sweet spot for all-mountain/freeride use. I carefully engineered the All Mountain rims to 28 millimeters wide and made them slightly stouter to survive the big hits. Combined with a reduced tire casing size and weight, the All Mountain wheels are the right balance of strength, width and weight for freeride. At greater widths, such as 36 or 40 millimeters, the rims are just too heavy and there's no real weight saving from using a reduced tire casing size.
What kind of weights are we talking about? My Wide Lightning 29 tubeless wheels weigh 1569 grams a pair and the Wide Lightning 27.5 tubeless are 1512 grams per pair. Compare those weights with my All Mountain 29 Tubeless at 1725 grams and the AM 27.5 Tubeless at 1673 grams per pair.
You designed your newest AM and Wide Lightning rim profiles with very short, thin flanges. Is there a compromise in strength there? My sidewall hook height is designed to be that way. A shorter sidewall has reduced leverage and lower bending force, which means it can be thin and strong. A longer sidewall has the increased bending force and leverage, so it must be thicker or it will bend. Do not be deceived by looks on this one!
Explain the importance of the tubeless-specific profile you designed in the rim wellsAll of our American Classic mountain and road tubeless rims have a bead barb to lock the tire bead in position once the tire pops into place
(seats). Tubeless tires seal on the circumference of the rim, not against the side wall. The bead-seat shape goes all around the rim and it helps seal and hold tubeless ready tires on the rim. The tire well (bottom center of the rim) has a smooth curve and yet it is deep enough to allow easy installation of the tire.
American Classic's Wide Lightning wheels come prep'ed for tubeless with AC's tape installed. High-flange hubs provide a more optimum angle for the spokes.
Why aluminum as your material of choice for rims?Aluminum and carbon fiber are good rim choices. I like aluminum for mountain bike applications because aluminum is “ductile,” meaning it will bend without breaking. This is great for MTB because you hit things when you ride and sometimes you hit things very hard that can cause rim damage. Aluminum is forgiving and it is better priced for riders to replace them when they have a mishap. Carbon fiber is a relatively new material for mountain bikes and I have one on the drawing board for the future. Carbon can be very light, but if there is a mishap, it's not forgiving and a carbon rim is expensive to replace. It will be interesting to see if the carbon MTB rim trend will stay or not.
You designed and patented a novel-looking freehub ratchet - can you walk us through the design? I designed a six-pawl, cam-actuated engagement system. All six oversized pawls engage in unison whenever drive torque is applied. A cam plate powers the pawls into engagement simultaneously. There are cupped engagement pockets in the cam plate for improved contact. The cassette body has 24 ratchet teeth for quick engagement with the pawls. Each pawl is made from super strong tool steel and has double tips for 12 points of engagement to work in conjunction with the 24 ratchet teeth. The secondary ratchet system does the coasting quietly and forces engagement of the large pawls only for drive torque transfer. The one-piece, forged 7075-aluminum cassette body is hard anodized and is protected with my steel-face body design.
Shook's six-pawl freehub ratchet drives the pawls into the specially shaped tooth profiles under power. A steel 'plate' attached to the aluminum freehub splines prevents damage from Shimano-style cassette cogs.
Insiders say that Shimano has yet to embrace one-by-eleven drivetrains, primarily because the torque generated by a 42-tooth cog creates too much stress on a conventional freehub body. Can you comment?Aluminum cassette bodies are damaged by the individual cassette cogs, and from loose fitting Shimano cassettes. Our Shimano-type cassette bodies are equipped with a steel face on the splines so that the body will not be damaged by the cassette. Steel is harder than aluminum which protects the softer aluminum from being gouged by the cogs. You get the best of both worlds, a light weight aluminum body with the protection of a steel surface.
Can there be such thing as too much spoke tension?Yes! If you have a really heavy rim, you can crank up that spoke tension if you want. But if you have lighter performance rims, extremely high tension can cause the rim to become unstable. We have specific spoke tension for all our MTB and road wheels because we want our customers to keep them in the sweet spot and have the best performance and durability.
Is there a downhill wheelset in American Classic's future?We just discontinued our downhill wheels and hubs, and all 26-inch wheels. We weren't getting traction in the DH market.
Do you envision a time when nearly all bicycle tires will be tubeless?Yes, and soon.
www.pinkbike.com/news/Thomson-Elite-Dropper-Seatpost-Review-2013.html
im going to check it out and i will for sure let PB users know how the stuff turns out for the price
Really? Of all the things!!! Really? Have you also been pushing for things that actually matter & would make a significant positive difference in the sport? Like inverted forks, internally geared transmissions, standardized seat post diameters & a stop to the introduction of bogus, senseless, outright stupid f*cking money making bullshit like more, bigger wheel sizes & smaller through-axle diameters?
www.pinkbike.com/u/richardcunningham/blog/Syntace-W35-MX-Wheels-Tested.html
www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday--Wider-Rims-Are-Better-and-Why-Tubeless-Tires-Burp-.html
for example.
You are talking rhetoric, and uninformed rhetoric. Some questions for you to consider.
1) On what criteria did you base your conclusion that "Inverted forks" and "standardized seat post diameters" actually matter over rim width? Please answer both before, and after, reading the Tech Tuesday link above.
2) Which "standardized" seat post diameter would you recommend for an 8 inch aluminium DH rig?
3) Same question on a 120mm carbon XC racer?
4) Same question on a steel 853 hardtail with slack geo for a 150\160mm fork?
Have a nice day.
"We just discontinued our downhill wheels and hubs, and all 26-inch wheels. We weren't getting traction in the DH market."
^^^This is all I needed to read to know I would never buy their products. It should have been the first question so I didn't have to waste my time with the other crap.
From my experience:
2.1 tires 28-32mm rims
2.35in tires 34-38mm
2.5-3.0 tires 36-42mm
This is why I'm excited about Derby rims! 40mm carbon rims that weigh only 450g!
bummer. this trend is killing my upgrade strategy....
The biggest con trick they have all pulled off is the "lifestyle play". "You to can live the life of a pro, go faster, jump higher and be the envy of your pals simply by giving me £2500. You need this folks, you need it".
Ummm... no. The Torque isn't defined by the rear cog, it is defined by crank torque * gear ratio. The stress would actually reduce with a large rear cog a the same gear ratio (less chain tension for the same drive torque, means the pressure on the freehub bearings is decreased)
Aside form that, no 26", no sale. 650b and 29" are a trend that is already starting to fade. The days of the gold rush are over, the market is saturated. Meanwhile, 26" users enjoy the biggest selection of available parts out there - rims, tires, forks, frames...
same sort of deal, they are 35mm wide outer and 30mm inner , and you can even get extra material added if you have a big but like mine, im so excited to get them!!!
What would this look like as a ratio?
Optimal setup = (rim width) tire width)
Thanks,
26"
Why change? It is mostly for pickpocket us. truly. i will never ride much better with new wheel size. Especially no fag29 on my bikes!
You can't change me on this!
I'm requesting that you do a To The Point on stanchion coatings. We have Kashima with Fox, Keronite and the elusive Black Gold from Rock Shox and lots of other less exotic stuff out there like nickle plating, and i've seen clear info on it all. Only the info from the hype men at those companies. Opinions on performance and durability on each abound (this is PB after all) but little useful information. Please help us de-mistify this topic that (insert cheeky innuendo about lubrication and slippery rods)
I gone from 20mm rims to 24mm. My 2.2" racekings measured 2.170" on the 20mm rims and 2.305" on the 24mm.
Really
If the article is about the rim/tire SYSTEM, then tire widths should have been quoted.
like the steel/al freewhub idea
Xmm rim : Xmm tire
vimeo.com/user15562558
Sequitur: ride what makes you happy!