Ask Pinkbike: No Drop Dropper, Single-Speed Benefits, Kona Process Abuse, and Five Ten Love
Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.
Dropper Post Not Dropping
Question: Pinkbike user snowsnow asked this question in the Bikes, Parts, and Gear forum: I was wondering if anyone has any experience with young kids or light riders using dropper posts? My son weighs about 65lb and has trouble getting my Reverb to drop. Can I change anything in a dropper post to make it easier to drop?
 | Like most dropper seat posts, the Reverb uses an air spring to bring it back up when you need to pedal, and RockShox says that you shouldn't run it with more than 250 PSI. The Reverb doesn't need to be run at maximum pressure, though, and lowering it will make it easier for lighter riders to drop their seat out of the way. You can go down to 200 PSI without any issues, which will make a big difference. Don't forget that lower air pressure means slower rebound as well. The easiest compressing dropper post that I've spent time on is FOX's D.O.S.S., which may be worth looking at if lowering your Reverb's spring pressure doesn't make a large enough difference for your son. The D.O.S.S. requires very low air pressure - just 25 PSI at max, but I've used mine with well under 15 PSI. Keep lowering the pressure until it doesn't return, then add 2 PSI with a shock pump until it comes back up again. The D.O.S.S. uses a retracting keyway design and ball bearing internals, which also helps matters. It is a bit heavier than the Reverb, though, and features three set travel positions rather than the infinite adjustment of the Reverb. - Mike Levy |
Pushing this button might not get the seat out of the way if you're 65lb shredder, but lowering the Reverb's air pressure will help.
Should I Buy a Single Speed?
Question: hoper386 asks in a PM: I am pondering buying a single speed like the Trek Superfly SS 29er. I know they are entirely different bikes and it's a personal decision. But, you ride all the latest and greatest, so I have to ask: "Have you dabbled in the SS world, and what has the experience been like?" I live in Hood River, am 55 years old, and ride all the time in the dirt. My style is work hard up and swoop down. I am just not sure if a SS or maybe a hardtail is a good idea. Do you think I am headed toward a frustrating and exhaustive exercise in humility? Any input you could share would be valuable.
| It is possible to ride fast and hit technical stuff on a hardtail, but whether it will make you a better rider can be argued both ways. Six months or a year on a single speed, however, will definitely up your game. Single speeds force you to use and to conserve momentum, and they teach you how much energy you waste dragging the brakes everywhere - so a summer on an SS will make you faster on every kind of bike. If you ride road bikes, single speeds will feel more natural, because you will be out of the saddle more often and you'll climb based upon heart rate and strength, not a fixed RPM. Sometimes you'll be at 90 rpm and often, as low as 50 rpm, so you need to be smooth and efficient on the pedals. But, it can wreck your knees if you don't ease into it. Start with lower gearing than you think you'll need and then work up to where your friends are over the summer. I understand the simplicity of the Superfly's rigid fork, but I don't subscribe. Most of your speed will come from not hitting the brakes, especially down techy sections, G-outs and into turns - it won't come from a throwback fork or pushing a taller gear. So, choose a single speed with a capable suspension fork and get tires that grip in the corners. Hood River trails are a perfect place to ride SS bikes. Enjoy the pain and remember to keep your fingers on the grips. - RC |
Trek's Superfly SS is about as racy as a single-speed gets, but for riders who want to maximize their descending and technical experience, I'd suggest dumping the fancy rigid carbon fork for a 120-millimeters of good suspension and a remote lockout. - Trek Image
Process 153 in the Bike Park?
Question: tricyclerider asks in the All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country forum: I'm looking at downsizing from my downhill bike because frankly it's too much bike for what I do. I'm looking at a Kona Process 153 and I am wondering if it could handle a few days of getting beat up in the bike park. I would get another downhill bike but realistically most of my riding occurs on local trails which are either hike-a-bike or a relatively easy pedal to the trailhead.
| Your question is one that many riders will soon be confronting now that the beginning of the lift-served bike season is almost here. The Process 153 is certainly stout enough to handle the occasional day in the bike park, although it might take you a couple laps to get accustomed to the feeling of riding a shorter travel bike compared to a slack DH sled with loads of travel. Other than that, the components on both models of the Process are capable of withstanding the punishments of bike park riding, although be prepared to go through brake pads, tires, and possibly rims quicker than you would riding on your local trails - bike parks are hard on all bikes, no matter how much travel they have. If you're looking to turn the Process 153 into even more of a DH machine, I'd recommend swapping out the stock RockShox Monarch rear shock for a Vivid Air (for reference, it takes a 200x57mm, M/M tune). That switch gives the bike a more bottomless feel, perfect for taking the edge off those brake bumps and choppy sections of trail. - Mike Kazimer |
Many of today's all-mountain bikes are tough enough to withstand occasional bike park usage as well.
Five Ten Shoes
Question: Pinkbike user JasonCraig1 asked this question in the Bikes, Parts, and Gear: Just wondering why every one has Five Tens? As I know they're not waterproof, and they don't protect your toes from being crushed. So, why do people rave about them? I understand they improve grip on pedals, but so would a decent pair of pedals. Cheers in advance.
| It all boils down to rubber compound. If you ride with flat pedals, there's nothing that really comes close, grip-wise. Vans had a decent offering a few years ago with their Gravel shoes, but they appear to be no longer in production. Giro have some good flat shoes with a Vibram sole, but if you're after maximum grip, Five Ten take the win every time. You're right about decent pedals, but once you stamp down a fresh sole of Stealth Rubber onto a grippy pedal, you'll probably never use anything else. Five Ten offer a range of shoes for most tastes and needs. - Paul Aston |
Nothing quite beats a fresh sole of Stealth Rubber.
Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.
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Amen
I have Karvers and those things will take a lot of abuse, transferring minimal damage to your feet. They also stay extremely dry in the wet / snow due to the construction and lace flap; its my go to Winter riding shoe.
I'd say its the light weight and more minimalist skate shoe style 5.10 that don't offer much protection from impacts or wet weather
Quite curious about these Specialised shoes, I hope this will stirr things up as 5/10 seems to have gotten a bit complacent, being the only one to make real DH shoes..
hogfish - it's not just the soles getting chewed up (which seems to be a trade off for softer rubber, especially when using Vaults), the sole actually came off the foam within months of use, which is just a case of bad quality. Why not stitch it to the upper part, like on the original Freeriders?
I honestly wonder why so little companies make proper sticky rubber shoes (currently the only real alternative to 5/10 is Specialized since Teva quit making the Links) - anyone who has had economics classes at high school can tell what this does for quality and pricing.
I wish Shimanos were grippier as the quality and fit are top notch..
However, I'm riding those Karvers in weathers where I don't see other riders on the trails: rain, snow, freezing cold. Great shoe for those conditions, the rest of the year I'm riding SPD's
Also, don't imagine it's not better: try it and see. I was blown away at how agile & jumpable my 29" trail hardtail is.
I totally agree about 29'er wheel on hardtails, makes real sense to me? I've ridden 29'er since 2012 and have tried 650 / 27.5 and yeah it works fine but it was slower no doubt on the same terrain I ride my 29'er on.
However, I could see the appeal of a 650 full suspension bike for DH, FR and Big Mountain riding where its much easier to package the smaller wheel on a long travel frameset and the smaller wheel will always be stronger and more responsive.
my carbon Stumpjumper 29'er hardtail is batsh*t fast, especially when pointed downwards.
ep1.pinkbike.org/p6pb12034378/p5pb12034378.jpg
On the flat its like riding a cyclocross bike, especially when running lower profile tires which don't have the drag of winter tires.
www.pinkbike.com/photo/11471873
Also good if your SO will leave you if you bring yet another bike into the house. A set of wheels is much easier to hide than a DH bike
When I got an AM bike, I skipped the whole "get light AM parts" and went straight for the DH parts. I can swap them onto my DH bike eventually (when I can own more than one bike).
I find it well worth the weight penalty
But tempted by the 153 after reading comments
From what I've seen, most PB users are pretty average if not slightly below average in skill level. An average rider simply cannot rail bike park trails on a trail bike. A great rider can, to a reasonable extent that is.
That said, I am getting a DH bike again this season to try to pick up the pace and spare my carbon steed the worst of the abuse.
I actually just got a new nomad as well, and, while i am absolutely in love with it, it has its own set of limitations when compared to a DH bike. I am biased though, as I have a ton of saddle time on both DH and AM bikes whereas some riders (seems like you are one of them) may find a DH bike slightly cumbersome due to its size/weight/geo compared to your go-to AM bike that you are used to.
Look, all I am saying is that for the average joe, a DH bike in the park will be best as it has a bit more of a "point and shoot" feel for larger features. There are merits to both, and if we want to get really subjective about which is more fun (e.g. trail bikes are arguably more flickable), then we are having a debate of opinion.
As far as I'm concerned, the fact remains that both pros and laymen will typically be faster in a park setting on a DH bike
Whether one is more fun than the other, well that's up to each individual rider. I definitely agree that there is a certain something that is more fun about hitting your favorite DH/shuttle trails on an AM bike...I certainly felt that way on my new nomad, but that was probably largely due to the fact that it is NEW
level 1 - you're gonna pick bad lines and case jumps all day so you need all the extra squish you can get.
level 2 - You can clean everything, but at a slower speed taking occasional b-lines and avoiding big boulders. Picking your way down rock gardens rather than blasting through them. This is easier and faster on a trail bike.
level 3 - fcking pinned. taking the big-boy lines, plowing boulders to straigh-line corners. Need a big bike.
I was soundly in level two a year ago when I got my nomad and I rode every single trail faster. Even double-black-diamonds at the bike park.
@groghunter bottle rocket is amazing. I loved mine.
Only thing I'd add that's very VERY important, is that with the SS, your gears will never miss, never skip, never drop the chain, never fvck up in any way whatsoever. It is so much more durable & that means you can hit the gas in places you wouldn't or couldn't before. You don't have to let up for shift after shift after shift. It's the best way to overcome the limitations of our antiquated drivetrain tech, at least next to a gearbox, which doesn't seem to be a viable option while $hitmano & $CAM have anything to say about it.
SS is also lighter.
Rock an SS & ditch the dopey derailleur. Yeah there are some sacrifices to be made but it's soooo much better.
No reason you couldn't go dropper on a DH bike, as long as fully dropped position doesn't put the seat too high. You've got to account for the collar, & possibly however much post you need to stick out for it to pedal good when up. If you run your seat slammed for DH, you aren't going to get it that low with a dropper.
I tend to wear out the soles but not the uppers.
@snowsnow I don't think anyone needs a dropper post, per se. I have never ridden in Whistler, but I wager a significant number of riders have shredded the sh*t out of every trail there without the luxury of a dropper; I think you would be hard pressed to find a trail anywhere in the world for which a dropper post is required. I think the main reason @Takeshi194 and I dislike the idea of a dropper post on a kid's bike is that we think kids' bike should be cheap, and putting a $280 seatpost on a kids' bike falls outside our perceptions of "cheap".
I was on rigid Costco bikes until I was 11 or 12, at which point I got my dad's old Trek ZX9000, which is as old as I am and had an elastomer fork that was lowered to about 20mm of travel (i.e. it was broken). I finally bought a proper bike in 2008; a 2007 Gary Fisher HiFi that was part of a local shop's old rental fleet. I still ride that bike, still with no dropper post.
However, if you can afford to live in Whistler (with a family, no less), you can probably afford a $280 dropper post for your $1700 kids' bike. There might be a valid argument for learning to ride technical trails without a dropper post--look at all the articles/comments on this site about learning on a hardtail or short-travel bike so you don't develop bad habits on a DH bike--but I haven't thought too much about that argument and I have very little experience with dropper posts besides.
Penultimate note: the Ripcord only has a 317mm seat tube (including non-usable length between the BB and lower pivot). The shortest Reverb is 355mm (shortest Fox D.O.S.S: 335mm), including 100mm of travel, so you may want to take some measurements to make sure the post won't be too long at full extension
Final note: $280 was listed as the median price of 26 dropper post models on MTBR, in this 2013 article: ridingresearch.com/2013/05/01/hite-rite-to-dropper-seat-post-oligopoly-of-innovation . JensonUSA is selling the 100mm travel Fox post for $300 (on sale).